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  Long shaft on a 13 sport ?

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Author Topic:   Long shaft on a 13 sport ?
Wagon1 posted 04-23-2001 09:48 PM ET (US)   Profile for Wagon1   Send Email to Wagon1  
I have been shopping for a new outboard for my 72 13. I am discouraged to learn that Johnson only makes a 40 long shaft.The short shaft is only avaliable in a tiller model. Rather than go to Merc (nothing against Merc, I'm just a Johnson fan), would a long shaft on my sport be a problem??
Erik posted 04-23-2001 10:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Erik    
Have you considered nissan/tohatsu or yamaha. Nissan/Tohatsu makes short shafts with all the features as there long shafts and have been getting good reports. Yamaha has nice 4stroke short shaft 40hp that weighs in the 180's lbs or so which is quite light for a 4-stroke, if you can afford it.
If you really wanna stick with Johnson you can always buy a jack plate that has 5inches of travel up and down to accommodate a longshaft and jack the engine all the way up. Keep in mine that that will be almost 200lbs hanging off the back. The engine would weigh about 190lbs and plus the weight of the jackplate and the leverage the engine would be getting from the setback of the jackplate. The 13 could probably hold it but I wouldnt want it like that. In my opinon i would go with the nissan/tohatsu, powerful and light, about 160lbs(shortshaft). Well thats my food for thought.
lhg posted 04-23-2001 11:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
There is a lot of discussion on your subject contained herein. You just have to search it out. Jim Knight of the Classic Whaler Association did a project boat about 4 years ago, coverting a short shaft 13 to a 40HP Merc longshaft. Said it was really a nice conversion. Maybe someone here has a back issue for your reference. I'd go with the more modern 20" shaft. If you don't want setback, Cook Manufacturing Co (CMC) makes static lift plates consisting of 1/2" aluminium, for just such a purpose. They have a website for reference.
Tom W Clark posted 04-23-2001 11:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark

This was discussed earlier in another thread, but did anybody identify the manufacturer of this plate?

Tom W Clark posted 04-23-2001 11:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
For that last link try this instead:
Wagon1 posted 04-24-2001 10:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for Wagon1  Send Email to Wagon1     
Thanks gents. Just ordered a 40hp Merc EO short shaft. Please tell me I didn't make a mistake.
lhg posted 04-24-2001 11:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
It will be fine, assuming you bought the 3 cylinder version, but if I can be blunt, you made a mistake. The engine manufacturers are trying to tell you something here. You're giving up power trim, for one. And your resale value will be a lot less, since so few boats are even left afloat that handle the 40HP class with a 15" transom. The pre-1973 13' Whalers are an anomoly here. Most other brands from those days are long gone!

I show a competitive price for a 15" 40EO as $2,922 and for a 40ELPTO (20" w/PT) $3278.
I think the $300 extra is well worth it for a readily marketable engine in later years, with the convenience of power trim.

Just trying to give you MY honest opinion on the subject. Others may disagree!

CarlRobert posted 04-24-2001 11:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for CarlRobert    
I agree with Ihg. I placed an order last week for a Merc 40 ELPT 4-stroke- 20" shaft to put on my '62 13' Sport (15" transom). I plan to use the Cook Mfg 5" vertical extension to accomodate the motor. Eric Cook of Cook Mfg advised me the 5" vertical extension would be fine for the Whaler's transom and motor weight. I decided to take the plunge and spend the extra bucks on the power tilt & trim and longer shaft for the reasons Larry listed. Additionally, after examining the motor and my transom, it appears installation of NFB teleflex steering will be much easier.

Arrival should be less than two weeks...

Just my two cents worth,

Carl R

AZdave posted 04-25-2001 02:00 AM ET (US)     Profile for AZdave  Send Email to AZdave     
Mike, I went with the original short shaft length when I put a new motor on my '68 Sport last year. I actually got a Yamaha 30HP to replace the old motor. I noticed that I didn't have a lot of freeboard at the transom when my own road hugging weight is back there tilting the motor or messing with a trolling motor. I really was concerned about hanging a motor on a jackplate with a setback from the stern. It seems like the jackplate acts as a lever and increases the effective weight of the motor. The short shaft seems to make a cleaner installation on this hull. My hull has worn out one motor, and might wear out another, so I'm not too concerned about the resale value of the motor. Have fun with the new motor.
beby138 posted 04-25-2001 07:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for beby138  Send Email to beby138     
Sorry for the stupid question ,but Can somebody tell me what is wrong w/ a long shaft engine on 15" transom ?,i have an evinrude 40hp on my 13'68 and on my opinion runs fine.thanks in adv
Wagon1 posted 04-26-2001 10:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Wagon1  Send Email to Wagon1     
beby138, Not a stupid question at all. When I found out the Johnson's 40 was only available on a long with elec and remote, I considered just using the long. I sent whaler an e.mail and got a response from His(her) response was that in 1972, whaler changed the transom hight to 20". My sport is a 72. It has the "dip" in the middle of the transom. Whaler said simply that the long shaft will not work properly. I just ordered a 40 Merc short EO. It is a back order item and I am expecting it next weekend. I am new here and have been directed to some older post that have awesome info on brackets and such. I love this place!!
RHLOOS posted 04-27-2001 08:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for RHLOOS  Send Email to RHLOOS     
I spent last season with a Yamaha 4-Stroke 40 H.P. on my 1966 13' Whaler, short shaft without Power Trim/Tilt. After 36 years of manually pulling motor up , it's over! Just made a deal with Dealer and a 25 H.P. 4-Stroke with PT&T is on order. It has the 20" Shaft so I'm Jacking it up with the Cook Mfg. Static Plate w 1/2" Angle/backset. Dropped the H.P. because of weight. It was max'ed out with the 40H.P. and going to 20" Shaft in 40H.P. would have been more weight. Also, steering installation will be easier as I now can run cable thru tilt-tube.
beby138 posted 04-28-2001 09:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for beby138  Send Email to beby138     
Somebody know what should be the right distance from the prop to the transom and bottom on this boat? THnks in adv
lhg posted 04-29-2001 01:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
When your boat is planing about 25mph, with engine trimed about vertical (not too far in or out), the anti-cavitation plate should be just above the surface. You should be able to look over the transom and see the top surface of it.

If you're running a 20" engine on a 15" transom, and the engine is not lifted, you're way too deep, and losing ecomony and performance. Re-install the engine on a set of CMC flat 1/2" lift plates, or a transom setback jack.

whalernut posted 04-29-2001 07:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalernut  Send Email to whalernut     
Keep it original, go with a 15in. shaft motor. The Plates take away from the look of the boat. I had a 71` `13 Sport with a 35h.p. Evinrude(2 cylinder) and loved the performance! Keep it original, keep it simple! Good luck-Jack Graner.
dhormann posted 05-06-2001 03:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for dhormann  Send Email to dhormann     
My '91 Merc 40 shortshaft can be retrofitted with all the goodies if desired. On the newer engines, I think most manufacturers figure the short-shaft motors are going on Zodiacs, so they don't include all the bells and whistles. Mine is currently a rope start, but has the brackets already there for a starter and the fittings for power tilt/trim. See if the goodies can be retrofitted later. You may find that you like the simplicity of the rope start anyway.

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