Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
  Montauk front hatch.

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Montauk front hatch.
MilwaukeeWhaler posted 07-18-2001 03:20 PM ET (US)   Profile for MilwaukeeWhaler   Send Email to MilwaukeeWhaler  
Are there any "tricks of the trade" for limiting the slapping of the front hatch. Maybe foam trim or something. Can you combine the bungie system on my old sport 13 with the hinges? I cringe anytime I get into rough seas. I have already lost a few screws. (from the hinges-no jokes please)
whalertim posted 07-18-2001 03:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
I think if you look back at past post there is a section on this same subject. I know of some people that have gone as far as putting a small air hinge on the hatch. Others have put rubber pads on the front.
just my 2 cents
tim nc
Tom W Clark posted 07-18-2001 03:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Use a "lockable hold down clamp". The one made by Perko is the best, Perko part #1108, chrome plated bronze. It's the only way to go. Why these aren't (weren't) standard equipment is beyond me.
Bigshot posted 07-18-2001 04:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Where do you mount that Tom. I want Stealth deck work here. Hate stubbing body parts.
lhg posted 07-18-2001 04:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Adhesive backed Velcro work for me. I use on the Outrage front hatch covers.
Tom W Clark posted 07-18-2001 11:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Mounting of the hold down is very simple. It requires four oval head screws, two for each piece of the hold down. Screw the three part piece to the edge of the Montauks hatch and screw the hook part directly beneath it on the face of the bulkhead beneath the hatch. There is wood backing there that is generally used for mounting bass boat style pedestal seats.

I think it's crazy that Whaler let those boats out the door without some sort of hold down. The hatch will flap like crazy! This is true of the 15's and all the other boats with loose hatches. They need some method of attachment. Whaler usually provided some lame piece of bungee which did not really prevent flapping or bouncing.

My '83 Outrage 18 came with a loose hatch and a bit of bungee and that was totally unsatisfactory. I installed two "short side" hinges on the starboard side of the hatch being very careful to make sure the hinge parts flushed out on both sides. I had to route out a tiny bit of gel coat on the boat side in order to get the hinges not to bind and for the hatch not to be held up at all by the hinges, for if this had happened, the weight of stepping on the hatch would have stripped out the screws in a hurry. After the hinges were installed I installed the hold down clamp in the same manner as on my Montauks.

MilwaukeeWhaler posted 07-19-2001 10:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for MilwaukeeWhaler  Send Email to MilwaukeeWhaler     
Thanks everyone for your help! I agree with Bigshot, Stealth is key!
Bigshot posted 07-19-2001 10:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
My 15's had the 2 long arrow like hinges on the front. allowed the hatch to roll back to the railing or chock. Was going to do this and get rid of the bungee but maybe the bungee wil keep it from banging.
MilwaukeeWhaler posted 07-19-2001 12:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for MilwaukeeWhaler  Send Email to MilwaukeeWhaler     
I am not a fan of drilling holes however the lock sounds like an option. What are your thoughts on two small velcro tabs in the corners opposite the hinges? Sounds a bit cheap but if the tabs are small and they hold that might be the best choice.
tarbaby posted 07-19-2001 02:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for tarbaby  Send Email to tarbaby     
This works for me: screw a stainless eye strap to the inside of the locker, on the forward vertical portion , but close to the bottom. Screw another eye strap to the hatch itself in the middle of a bungee cord . The eye strap on the hatch should be directly over the one on the hull when the hatch is closed. Put both of the hook ends on the strap eye on the hull. I think that the bungee is about18 inches. When the hatch is closed, the eyes are about 9 inches apart. This is a tried and true way to fix this problem. This holds down the hatch but allows it to be opened all the way to the bow rail. I hope I explained this well. Shay
Bigshot posted 07-19-2001 02:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Mine has the factory eylets and bungee but in rough stuff or jumping waves, she slides all over the joint.

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.