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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Outrage 25' Performance
|Author||Topic: Outrage 25' Performance|
posted 08-14-2001 03:57 PM ET (US)
I am looking to buy a used 25' outrage. What sort of performance will I see with a single vs twin. What is a good offshore total HP. (lots of swells here in SF [no water sking])
Thanks in advance...
posted 08-14-2001 05:43 PM ET (US)
I have a 1987 25' Outrage with twin 1996 150HP Evinrude OCean Pro OBs. The boat has spent a considerable amount of time up on Lake Superior which is comparable to SF Bay. I think the highest speed we have achieved is a tick over 47MPH, that with 3 fat guys on board and not much gas in the tank.
Hope this helps.
posted 08-16-2001 12:30 PM ET (US)
I am also looking to purchase a 25 outrage and was wondering if twin 135 mercs(new in 1991) were a good setup......also the seller has told me that the boat year is a 1980....did they make a 25 outrage in 1980? Also anything in particular that I should be looking for on the year outrage that would be problematic?
Finally, what is a good price for this year outrage...has t-top full teak no trailer auto pilot?
posted 08-16-2001 12:57 PM ET (US)
I have hull number A40001 of the outrage 25 series, and it is a 1981 boat, so no, they didn't make them in 80'.
posted 08-16-2001 01:01 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply......What problems if any have you had with your 81 outrage....and what is a fair price for that model....with 1991 twin 135 mercs
posted 08-16-2001 01:28 PM ET (US)
Cliff, I don't really know. I depends on so many variables:
Cosmetic condition (gelcoat, wood, stainless, owner modifications, etc)
Structural condition (foam, drain tubes, bottom, transom, deck, etc)
Mechanical condition (engines, electrical, hydraulics, engine controls, etc)
And how attracted you are to the boat. The owner of my boat wanted 15.5 for a boat in very poor cosmetic condition, w/ a rebuilt 1985 Johnson 235. I offered 10, and we settled at 11.5. I think I overpaid, but I'm not sure. I've sunk proably 200 hours and a considerable amount of money into bringing her back to life, and I have yet to address any of the cosmetic issues, or repowering.
That said, lets say I finisf off after repowering at a total investment of 30K, with a new engine and the boat in tip-top shape. I could have bought a new 20' something_or_other for that price, but that's not whay I bought a whaler. I bought the boat because I love working on boats, and enjoy the sense of pride I feel knowing I have done the job right.
What a new prospective boat owner has to figure out is WHY does he/she want a boat? If it's to do some weekend boating, and you really don't find yourself interested in the maintience of the boat, then buy something in good condition, and keep it that way.
If, on the the other hand, you love to have a screwdriver in your hand, and find the time spent fixing the boat as enjoyable as being out on it, then get a project.
Now, if you opt for the latter, as I did, go in with your eyes open (I was wearing my rose colored glasses that day I bought mine!)! Remember, your project is the other persons "Boat," and they usually are not willing to part with it a project prices. this issue is especially difficult with Whalers. Let me explain why I thing so.
Whalers have assumed a cult status, due to the Unsinkable factor, and the amount of abuse they can take. As a result, the Whaler you see floating dockside looking pretty good, may actually be in poor condition internally. Drain tubes rotted, foam core holding water, delamination, etc. A Whaler, due to her design, can hide these problems (some of which of course are unique to her design), from a novice buyer.
You have to really educate yourself before you buy one, espicially a big one.
Hope this helps. Larry
posted 08-16-2001 01:53 PM ET (US)
You make some excellent points. These boats can consume an enormous amount of time (and money) to make them perfect again.
In my own case, I bought a boat in very, very good condition, but just trying to make things a little better and exactly the way I want them has become an every-weekend job.
Also, with larger hulls you often can't keep them around the house, so getting to them to work on them can take some time, too.
posted 08-16-2001 04:38 PM ET (US)
Larry and Jim
Thank you for your well-thought out responses....your both right, any boat that size and age requires alot of time and upkeep and being informed about what you are buying is paramount if you don't want any surprises or disappointments.
I bought a 87 15'supersport 2 summers ago after finding it in a freshly harvested field of corn.....bad shape....motor blown, full of water, old bird and snake nests and a some nice damage to the starboard part of the stern...anyway found out who owned it and the guy was ready to sell.....picked everything up for 1500.....really had no idea what I was getting into until about 6k later.....it was real work and real money and looking back on it was probably not the best investment I have made in by boatbuying career....but the fun value is priceless and I don't regret it.
Having said that, this is a completely different beast and thusly I will aproach it as such. The guy wants $18,700 for the 25 which I think is astronomical unless it is Bristol, which I doubt, considering he doesn't even know what year it is....
Also I have not had a chance to see it so once that happens I will be able to make more of an estimate as to how badly I want this boat.....and I plan on leaving the rose colored glasses at home per Larry's recommendation.
Thnaks agin for your great advice and I will keep you informed as I move forward.
posted 08-16-2001 04:50 PM ET (US)
Sound like you understand the process, and know what you want, so no more about that.
My best advice to you is to read the posts about drain tubes in the repair section. when you look at the boat, the key is to somehow determine the condition of those items that a whaler can hide. So, check the tubes, foam and transom very closly. Bring a rubber mallett and gently go over the WHOLE hull. You will know delamination when you hear it.
PS: That price might be steep or very good, depending on condition, etc. Can you tell us more about the boat, and how it is equiped and powered? Is he/she a longtime owner, or was this a quick turnaround sale?
posted 08-16-2001 05:03 PM ET (US)
I can answer a few of those questions for you:
Power: Twin 1991 Mercury 135's
Seller is the second owner as far as I can tell and bought the boat when the mercs were new......so deduction would lead me reason that he has owned it for about 10 years...Did I miss anything?....oh yeah the bottom is painted and there is no trailer.
Questions..if it is a 1981 hull...are the bow running lights set one on starboard side and one on the port side and was a SS bowrail standard? Do we have a reference section on the 25 in the works here on the site?
Hope this helps
posted 08-16-2001 05:41 PM ET (US)
Cliff, if the boat checks out and is really clean, that price migh not be too bad. Sounds like the guy put some money into it.
Yes, there were port an starboard lights, about 2.5 feet aft on the gunnel. I think rails were standard. You will spend about $1k for a welded 1" ss rail.
PS: Lobby for what?
posted 08-17-2001 10:06 AM ET (US)
I jokingly say that I will lobby an issue for anyone who will pay me.....
I ran political campaigns in college and then worked for 2 Governor's here in Virginia.
Chose lobbying as a career because it is a natural fit after all the campaigns I ran...
Anyway I currently lobby for convenience stores, road builders and a host of tech companies....interesting work because the projects are constantly changing.
Thanks for the help with the 25, I will take a look and let you know if I think it's worth it.....out of all the classic outrage years which year do you believe was the best production year and why?
posted 08-17-2001 12:14 PM ET (US)
Apparently this hull was built in 1980....maybe sold in 81?...I dunno
Hull # is BWCC9470M80L
and the capacity plate lists it as a 24.7 Outrage
It has a fiberglass leaning post...probably not original....T-Top with running light on top...maybe original....console has teak door on both sides...and cubby for fire extinguisher....SS railing on Bow and SS railings somewhere near stern and finally Hydrolic steering
Does the hull # help you place it?
posted 08-17-2001 12:33 PM ET (US)
There are two nimbers you can look up a whaler by, Hull Number, and Hull ID (HID). Mine has no HID, why, I don't know.
I got this from chuck Bennet at BW when I gave him my hull number:
"Trying to research the history on your boat and, unfortunately, nothing was in print...sorry about that... It seems your boat was the second 24/25' model built. The first, A40000, was the prototype and was eventually destroyed (I guess there was too much testing..heh,heh.)
So, I am confused. I can see that your boat is a 1980 from the last 2 numbers, and a Center Console from the BWCC. I would send the number to Chuck for more info. His email is email@example.com.
when you go see the boat, think about "what am I going to replace." It adds up to $$.
Let us know what you find!
posted 08-17-2001 02:06 PM ET (US)
Thanks again for the reply and the info.
I forwarded the HID# to Chuck in an email so hopefully I will hear something back soon.
Again thanks for your advice and guidence....whether I buy this boat or not our email conversations have really made me look before I leap.
Ask your sister in law if she has ever heard of the law firm of Troutman Sanders in Atlanta.....I work in there Richmond offices as a contract lobbyist....its a small world after all.
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