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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Wet hulls--How to determine?
|Author||Topic: Wet hulls--How to determine?|
posted 11-11-2001 12:28 PM ET (US)
Looking for used boat and have no idea how to tell if a boat hull is wet thanks
posted 11-11-2001 12:55 PM ET (US)
drill hole if water come out wet if not water come out not wet welcome jim
posted 11-11-2001 12:58 PM ET (US)
They say you can tap on the bottom of the boat and listen for a different tone. I personaly feel unless you have a reason to believe there is wwater in the hull don't worry about it.
A gallon or two of water is not going to make that big a difference in your boating summer and at the end of summer drill a hole in the bottom and let it drain unless there is no chance of it freezing. Then do it every 5 years or so.
If you look at a 20 year old whaler and it's had water in the hull say half it's life and it hasn't changed anything why worry about it now. Just my thoughts.
posted 11-11-2001 03:15 PM ET (US)
[Edited TOPIC field to conform with preferred style--jimh]
posted 11-11-2001 09:08 PM ET (US)
The few I've looked at I just lift the bow to see how heavy it feels. I know what a dry one feels like. Its hard to weigh them but thats the only accurate way. Good luck.
posted 11-14-2001 02:58 PM ET (US)
I realize this group has a bias, but why does it seem that you hear more about water in Whaler hulls than any other manf?
I'm looking for a 25' Revenge between 1980-93 and have some concerns about the "wet hull" label give to Whalers.
Can a good surveyor determine if a hull is wet? Can someone ease my concerns?
posted 11-14-2001 04:18 PM ET (US)
jjf, other manufacturers all have water in their hulls. The sealed hull of the Whaler is the cause for concern and in many cases over concern. Over time I have passed on Whalers for the same reason, but if you look at most other posts relating to this subject it is blown out of proportion. The whaler hull can be drained and repaired in most cases. I still don't know of a Whaler that had too much water in it that it wouldn't float. Look at the Whaler Montauk adds, they fill the hull full of water and put about 12 people in one and they still float. Regards, Jay
posted 11-15-2001 08:55 AM ET (US)
Let me expand on my terse and ungramatical answer given above:
If I was seriously considering a Boston Whaler boat and had suspicions that the hull was wet, I would try to arrange with the owner to perform a test drilling. I don't know if he'd agree--maybe he'd want to stipulate some conditions, say I pay him $100 if I don't buy the boat, etc.
Of course, to do this the boat has to be out of the water, preferably on a trailer. I'd crank the trailer tongue jack up high, so any water in the hull would be likely to flow to the stern.
Then I would drill a small hole, say 1/4-inch, through the transom as close to the centerline and the keel as possible. This will get into the encapsulated wood of the transom. Save the wood chips as you drill.
If the boat is really wet, I would suspect that you will get water coming out of the hole immediately.
Next, carefully tape over the hole with plastic (from a plastic baggie). Be sure to seal the plastic to the hull completely. Come back a day or two later and check the plastic. If there is moisture or condensation, it must have come from the hull interior.
The hole can be repaired by using a short piece of 1/4-inch dowel as a plug. Coat the dowel with epoxy and insert into the hole. Use thickened epoxy to cover the hole.
Now having said all this, I doubt I would let some prospective buyer to this to my boat!
An alternative to this procedure might be to temporarily unmount a SONAR transducer or paddlewheel transducer that is mounted on the transom. These are usually screwed into the hull in about the same place as your test-drilling would be made, anyways. Back out the mounting screws and see what comes out.
(Actually I did do exactly this procedure this summer on my 1987 20-Revenge in the process of replacing the transducers. There was no trace of water and the wood was dry and firm.)
posted 11-15-2001 12:51 PM ET (US)
Thanks Jim, I am now the proud owner of a dictionary that I will keep by my side when I post a thread. I will try to be moer terse and grammatical from now on. However, it is very hard to try to teach an old dog new tricks. Regards, Jay
posted 11-15-2001 12:57 PM ET (US)
Yes, I did more on porpoise. Jay
posted 11-15-2001 04:06 PM ET (US)
I just purchased a '65 montauk (my 1st boat). It's a project boat, that needs some TLC. I cut out some soft spots and drilled holes in others and let them dry out, before refilling then w/ fiberglass. Given the age & price of the boat I knew this would be inevitable. It would definitley be more of a concern on a newer, more expensive boat.
posted 11-15-2001 06:11 PM ET (US)
PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.
It's my understanding that pre 1978 Whalers had a different not-truly-closed cell foam that would absorb a whole bunch of water (witness my 1969 13' that is soaked; hundreds of pounds of water).
Does buying post-1978 hulls ensure that the only water that can get in is that which fills in the rare void where there is no (modern truly-closed cell) foam?
Mine is so heavy that I need a 40 hp to get it on plane. Once there it does 26 mph.
Please help as I'm going to dump it this year for a new 13....need to know.
posted 11-16-2001 09:59 PM ET (US)
I did see somthing at the dealer about a
absorption test on foam that had been
core drilled from a hull.They soaked it
in water and or oil with no absorption.
I have noticed that holes drilled by
the factory that have exposed foam are
sealed with what appears to be gelcoat.
I seen a 13 sport with motor & trailer
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