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Author Topic:   Thoughts on a new Montauk trailer.
MilwaukeeWhaler posted 11-23-2001 12:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for MilwaukeeWhaler   Send Email to MilwaukeeWhaler  
The trailer that came with my '95 Montauk is a '94 EZ Loader. The trailer seems pretty weak. It is not long enough to use a motor brace nor is it long enough to use the stern eyes as tie downs. I am in the market for a new (or new to me) trailer. Any thoughts on makes and models that would be a little more substantial? I trailer the boat 3 hours on the weekends at highway speeds, so I wouldn't mind spending a little more for an oversized trailer. I appreciate any comments. I just don't want to go to a dealer clueless and have them sell me a flat bed!!!
Bigshot posted 11-23-2001 12:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
I have a Towmaster(Sturdy Built brand) 17-19' aluminum 3500lb trailer with torsion axles. It tows like a dream and looks really good under the Montauk. I highly recommend an alum tailer due to the lightweight and corosion resistance. Shop around, mine was about $1500 new but a nice used should go for about $1k. Your trailer should fetch $4-500 in good shape.
noswah posted 11-23-2001 12:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for noswah  Send Email to noswah     

Milwaukee Whaler, I have never seen a trailer that's better than the one I have. The problem is they are made in Texas and are only sold by dealers from Texas to Florida.

I have a Sportsman LR model and they can pretty much custom build you a trailer with lifting keel rollers, drop axle, totally galvanized, and of course all the guide rollers or bunks that you want. Maybe plan a fishing trip on the Gulf..........

Dick posted 11-23-2001 01:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
As I don't believe in keel roller trailers my Montauk is on a galvanived Shorelander 2400# full bunk trailer.
I like it.
noswah posted 11-23-2001 01:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for noswah  Send Email to noswah     

Dick, Not a problem after you load your boat you simply lower the keel roller and your keel will be sitting on bunks as well as the rest of the boat.
Dick posted 11-23-2001 03:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
Sounds like a nice trailer but I have never found a need for keel rollers.

It's kind of like that old Ford vs Chevy thing, what works for me is the best but may not work for someone else.

Regardles of what kind of trailer it's on I sure hate looking out the window and seeing it covered for the winter.


MilwaukeeWhaler posted 11-23-2001 08:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for MilwaukeeWhaler  Send Email to MilwaukeeWhaler     
I thought the keel rollers were supposed to handel the bulk of the weight since the keel is the strongest point of the hull. The bunks are only for stabilization. Hey Bigshot---help me out on this one.
JBCornwell posted 11-23-2001 08:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
"The keel of your Boston Whaler is the strongest area. The keel is designed to support the weight of the boat. For this reason, the trailer you select should contain center keel rollers to support the entire weight of the boat." Boston Whaler Owner's Manual for 18foot-25foot Models.

Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

Dick posted 11-23-2001 08:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
I have worked for two different Whaler dealerships and in both we used nothing but full bunk trailers, with the blessing of Boston Whaler.

The owners manual gives some very good information on the proper trailer selection.

Keel rollers for support of the weight with bunks adjusted for lateral stability.

Full bunk trailer with the bunks adjusted as close to the keel as possible, conform to the hull shape and provide maximun fore and aft support.

The only NO-NO is a trailer with side rollers.

Kim posted 11-24-2001 09:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for Kim  Send Email to Kim     
I like some of you have a shorelander galv. works great. but if I was to get a brand new one , it would have a break-a-way tong. this would be nice for storage.
whalerron posted 11-24-2001 10:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
Nobody has mentioned trailer weight capacities. You should decide what weight the trailer will be hauling (boat + motor + gear) and pick the appropriate capacity trailer. You don't want a 3500lb capacity trailer if you will only be putting 1800 pounds on it. The reason for this is that the trailer suspension will be so stiff, the trailer will pound the living daylights out of the boat as it goes down the road. You want some extra capacity but I wouldn't use more than about 500lb extra capacity. In the ideal setup, your trailer should give the boat a smooth ride.

That trailer that noswah has sounds like a neat setup.

- Ron

jimh posted 11-24-2001 11:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I was going to jump in here with some comments, but as I started to respond, I realized that I really had more to say about this than I could fit into this thread.

So what began as just a comment is now a new article in the reference section on trailer preferences. See:


triblet posted 11-25-2001 10:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
I use two ramps, one Michigan, one Kentucky.
Bunk trailer works just find at both.

I can single hand at either, but it's a bit of
a pain at the Kentucky because there's NO
pier, so I have to anchor, swim in, rinse
the salt water off, get the truck, go get
the trailer from the trailer lot a quarter
mile away, put the trailer in the water,
swim out, drive on the trailer, attach the
winch strap, clean me up AGAIN, and pull the
trailer out.

You neglected to mention that a good coat of
silicone spray on the bunks will make it
much easier to get the boat on and off. My
Montauk is in the water most every weekend,
and I try to spray the bunks a couple of
times year.


JBCornwell posted 11-25-2001 01:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Just curious Chuck. What salt water are you fishng in Kentucky?

Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

jimh posted 11-25-2001 02:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I took the liberty of copying Chuck's comments to the follow-up thread on the article. See , and in that context the "Kentucky" reference makes more sense.

MilwaukeeWhaler posted 11-25-2001 08:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for MilwaukeeWhaler  Send Email to MilwaukeeWhaler     
Jim h, thanks for your comments. Great article. I definitely learned a few things.
Bigshot posted 11-26-2001 10:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
as far as overkill, you are correct to some degree Ron. Most trailers in the 17-19' range will be 3500lbs if they are worth a darn. My 3500# with a torsion drives like butter, all in the suspension. As far as keel rollers go, bullcrap! Ever see a boat lift with keel support? They keep 40 Bertrams on lifts that have only bunks. You look at any boat lift and it only has 2 bunks. Any Alum trailer will have 2 bunks and a forward V. Keel rollers are not necessary.
TightPenny posted 11-28-2001 02:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for TightPenny  Send Email to TightPenny     
I guess those with the bunk only trailers don't do much launching into knee deep water.

Give me my keel rollers.

lhg posted 11-28-2001 02:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
They've also never retrieved a 25' Outrage with twin V-6 outboards and 1000# of fuel at a ramp where power loading is prohibited and enforced!

See early 90's Whaler CPD catalogs that show the very pricy Whaler brand trailers. They ALL (for size 17' - 27' Dougherty Whalers) show double keel rollers on each of many cross members. These carry the entire the weight of the hull.

Boat lifts do not function the same as trailers used at launching ramps. The hull of my 25 Outrage shows compression marks from being stored on two longitudinal bunks at a dry stack place for only two winters. I knew I was taking a chance, but these places are not designed to accomodate Whalers. They are designed to accomodate the stringer style hulls that represent 99% of boat brands.

Bigshot posted 11-28-2001 04:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Sorry, let me rephrase that. Keel rollers are not necessary but do help if your situation is launching in knee high water. As far as powerloading, I have never done that in my 24' Baja because it ruins the ramp. My bunk trailer is a breeze with a 1200lb Big block and 850lbs of gas. My neighbor has a 28 mako and launches that no problem with a bunk. BW has never recommended roller trailers but does suggest bunk with keel rollers. My Montauk which is a lot lighter than a 25' has been on a bunk since 1989 and is perfect. This thread is about a Montauk trailer not a 25'. No offense Larry but if a Whaler gets dented being on bunks then I am highly suspicious. Reason being no lift has center support rollers so therefore either the bunks in the storage place were placed wrong(should be on the flat chines which have wood support) or your hull is faulty.
TightPenny posted 11-29-2001 05:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for TightPenny  Send Email to TightPenny     
My boat is a Montauk, and the trailer has had the rollers doubled up by me.

When the trailer was new, and the salt had not yet fused the galvanized sections together, the weight of the boat on the single rollers tended to twist the cross members due to torque. Added the second rollers and all was well.

Incidentally, I got my trailer directly from a small manufacuturer here in NJ, Touchstone Transportation Engineering in Toms River. It is probably the strongest trailer I have ever had. Most reasonably priced as well.

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