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Author Topic:   What name brand trailer do you use?
MilwaukeeWhaler posted 11-25-2001 08:15 PM ET (US)   Profile for MilwaukeeWhaler   Send Email to MilwaukeeWhaler  
I am curious to know what brand of trailer is under most Whalers? Are Whaler owners prejudice to a certain brand? Please indicate what model and give it a star ranking based on your experiences. 5 stars being the best darn trailer money can buy. I am especially interested in trailers for Montauks. Thanks
Charles
triblet posted 11-25-2001 09:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Shorland'r all bunk.

Calkins (out of business now) and Pacific are
good too.

I'd give it four stars, but I'm a REAL tough
grader.

You'll get lots of brands that people like.
I think with trailers it's not all that
difficult to build a decent one, and the
bad ones are either built by someone who
didn't do their homework, or cut too many
corners. In September at Lake Don Pedro
there was a fella there whose trailer had
broken the frame at a couple of welds. It
wasn't the weld that let go but the frame.
His boat weighed about the same as my
Montauk. I noted that the frame metal was
way thinner than my Shoreland'r.

Chuck

dauntlass 18 posted 11-25-2001 10:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for dauntlass 18  Send Email to dauntlass 18     
The trailer under my Conquest is a Loadrite. It has three keel rollers and two six foot long bunks per Loadrite made to "Whaler specs". I give it four stars.I had a Caunkins under my 18ft Dauntless single axel no brakes.I think the Caukins may have been of a heaver steel in frame.
jimh posted 11-25-2001 10:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I have two trailers:

One is a Shoreland'r with keel rollers,
and a hinged frame that I've never used. It is a single axle trailer. They don't seem to make anything like this model any more. The current catalogue is all bunk trailers with no rear crossmembers.

The second is a tandem axle Pacific trailer. It is very heavily built. The owner of Pacific told me they build them to survive on Mexican roads in Baja California. That is why this one works so well in the pot-hole filled roads of Michigan!

Dick posted 11-25-2001 10:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
In my 35+ years in the marine industry I have sold several brands of trailers.
Holesclaw - 1 star (factory closed. I believe)
Calkins - 3 stars (factory closed)
E-Z Loader - 3 stars
Shorelander - 5 stars
Have also sold a couple custom brands built for specific boats and the best was Ryan out of Portland Oregon.
dgp posted 11-25-2001 11:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for dgp  Send Email to dgp     
I have a Trailers by Dorsey trailer under my Montauk. I'd give it 5 stars. I had a Wesco under my Dauntless and I'd give it 3 stars.
Einar posted 11-26-2001 01:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for Einar  Send Email to Einar     
I recently bought a Carnia. This is the reopened Calkins. It is made in Spokane Wa. As weight is put on the center rollers , the bunks pivot upward to support the hull. I am very happy with it.
Alvin Einar
dfmcintyre posted 11-26-2001 08:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Eagle trailer, made in Michigan, just south of Detroit.

Five star +

Built to the hull design (so minimal adjustment is possible or needed) which eliminates many potential corrosion areas, all bunked, galvanized, dual brakes, spare tire, fiberglass fenders that matched my paint. Makes many custom trailers for the offshore crowd. I picked mine up at the factory and got a tour.

Have also had easy loader (5), Caulkins (5), and a backyard custom built type (2)

Don

bkoelbel posted 11-26-2001 09:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for bkoelbel  Send Email to bkoelbel     
Does anyone have web / phone contacts for Carnia (the rejuvenated Calkins?)

I'm looking to replace some parts on my '86 Calkins trailer.

Any info is appreciated, thanks.

Bigshot posted 11-26-2001 10:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
I have a Sturdy Built (Towmaster) alum 3500# with bunks and a torsion axle. It is built like a brick house and tows like a dream. I have owned MANY Galv trailers and once you go alum, you'll never understand why people use steel. They do not bang or make noise like steel, very light, and look trick. Mine is optioned out and runs about $1500+
Tom W Clark posted 11-26-2001 11:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
My first two Whalers were on a Shoreland'r with bunks and keel rollers. The next three Whaler were on galvanized Calkins all roller trailers. I've owned other Calkins trailers as well and I'm glad to know they have been resurrected.
David Ratusnik posted 11-26-2001 12:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Ratusnik  Send Email to David Ratusnik     
I own a 1999 Aluminator twin axle bunk style trailor. Made locally in Grant FLA. Light with no brakes. D
JFM posted 11-26-2001 02:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for JFM  Send Email to JFM     
Shorland'r double bunk each side under the Montauk, no keel rollers. I don't like it because it's much harder to launch in shallow water. Regards, Jay P.S. It's nice to tow, you don't feel like anything is back there.
hardensheetmetal posted 11-26-2001 05:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for hardensheetmetal  Send Email to hardensheetmetal     
The montauk I just sold had an Intgrity brand painted trailer. Other than the fact it was painted, it was the nicest trailer I have owned. It was of all welded construction, with no adjustments, so I would assume it was made specifically for that boat. On the manufacturers tag it read 'Whaler red paint'. Very interesting as far a trailers go.

Dan

dscew posted 11-26-2001 07:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for dscew    
My Shorelander is 27 years old, as is my Katama. The trailer is very well built--ultra rugged, heavy steel frame, keel rollers and bunks, with a hinge I've never used and don't understand. I don't believe they make them like this anymore. I had a Karavan under my 17 Standard, and it weighed half as much as the Shorelander, although it seemed to work well.
Ed Stone posted 11-26-2001 09:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Ed Stone  Send Email to Ed Stone     
I use a Owens aluminum four bunk trailer.
They are custom built in St.pete Florida.

I had them push the center bunks up good
and tight to help support the keel.They cut
the outer bunks to match the angle on your
boat.

They use marathon tires,torsion axles,
flush kits on the brakes,Acculube system on
the hubs.
They have a web site: slideon.com
Ed Stone

JBCornwell posted 11-27-2001 08:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
My Montauk rides on a galvanized 1980 Magictilt; 4 keel rollers and small bunks for stabilization. Never used the hinge, but have figured out how to make it a removable tongue. Good trailer; tows nice, easy launch and load. 4 stars.

The Outrage 18 is on a very inappropriate trailer. . .all roller, galvanized Shoreline. Will be converted to keel rollers with either roller or bunk stabilization or traded for a keel roller and bunk trailer before spring. The trailer tows very well and would be great for a hull suited to rollers. 3 stars (conditional)

Red sky at night.. .

JB :)

lhg posted 11-28-2001 04:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
After 30 years of trailering, and thousands of miles, the only type of trailer I would now ever own for a Whaler is what I like to call a "Florida Trailer", which is where most of this style are made. Continental, of Miami, is one of these manufacturers, and the brand I use. They are not expensive, either.
One of these for a Montauk (1700# capacity) I recently priced at $750 new! For my Outrage 25, with 4 wheel disc brakes, about $3400.

They are constructed of welded structural steel channel sections, where the entire trailer frame is welded before hot dip galvanizing, giving you a one-piece frame. Only the tongue is tubular steel, so there can be no hidden rust or failure points that are concealed. Most trailers rust, and subusequently fail, from the inside out with tubular members, and you never know it's happening. The inside of these tubes are not often galvanized, and the places where they are cut or drilled is where rust begins. Because of the bolt holes, it is impossible to keep salt water out of these. Also with an all-welded frame, no flex and no squeaks, no rusted bolts and bolted structural connections to fail. They have four - six cross members to hold the rollers, a big plus. Most other brands don't have this. The Pacific brand of trailers are also made this way, but they appear to be constructed with too deep of a V frame for a Classic Whaler if keel rollers are desired, but would be fine for the 4 bunk configuration.

EZ Loader? No way. My 18 Outrage came with one of these, painted version, and it failed (rust from the inside of tongue) after 3 years at 60 mph on the center lane of a three lane expressway during holiday traffic. The Whaler, well strapped to the trailer, held it together while we pulled off the road, trailer fishtailing violently. Suffice it to say I'm lucky I'm to be here typing this. The tongue separated from the main frame!

Even if you boat in the freshest of fresh water, never buy a painted tubular frame trailer is you're going to be doing any serious trailering!!!

David Pendleton posted 01-11-2002 08:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Pendleton  Send Email to David Pendleton     
I have a galvanized 6400# EZ Loader Tandem under my 23 Conquest. I'm not extremely happy with it, but it isn't rusting.

Actually, I'm not happy with the winch, which EZ didn't manufacture anyway.

I'll be putting a strap on this year.


Tom Byrum posted 01-11-2002 09:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom Byrum  Send Email to Tom Byrum     
Pacific Bunk
Tom Byrum posted 01-11-2002 09:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom Byrum  Send Email to Tom Byrum     
Oops,hit the send button accidently. Pacific drive on bunk trailer. Its a great trailer. The winch has never been unwound more than 6" and I havent had to submerge my truck tires or get my feet wet.
noswah posted 01-12-2002 05:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for noswah  Send Email to noswah     

Milwaukee Whaler, You may want to read the post from 11/20/01.

JFM, I've wondered ever since you posted 2 months ago how is it that keel rollers make it harder to launch a boat in shallow water.

Does anyone else understand this? Thanks

I also believe the only advantage to bunk trailers is that their usually cheaper. The keel is the strongest part of any hull as far as I know, so I favor keel rollers with bunks to the side or the one I have.

Andy Holmes posted 01-12-2002 08:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for Andy Holmes  Send Email to Andy Holmes     
I have a 1978 Somerset aluminum trailer, tandem wheels. It has 4 Keel Rollers, and 4 bunks. It is more trailer than my 1998 17' Standard needs, but I love the way it tows. It is all welded, and built to last a lifetime. Like Bigshot said, once you have used aluminum, you will never want steel again. I have previously owned shorelander trailers, and had no complaints except that they seemed to use minimum sized frame materials, giving them a "cheaper" feel. I also never had one more than two or three years old, so cannot comment on the longevity issue.
triblet posted 01-12-2002 02:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Shorland'r minimum sized frame components?

Well, at Lake Don Pedro, there was a fellow
with boat that was about the same size as
my Montauk. His
frame had broken, and I noticed that the
tubes were smaller and a lot thinner than
my Shorland'r.

I admit there are advantages to aluminium
trailers, but they are quite uncommon on the
West Coast. I think I've seen two.


Chuck

kingfish posted 01-12-2002 06:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Dual axle EZLoader - I've added two cross members and double Stoltz rollers on all cross members; disc brakes this winter.

I've been really happy with both the trailer and EZLoaders tech and parts dept. They are good, friendly and *fast*.

kingfish

where2 posted 01-14-2002 01:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
15' BW_Sport w/ Magic Tilt trailer (roller/bunk)
3.5 stars because it's an '85 boat and trailer package with a galvanized trailer in florida, and isn't a ball of rust. Had black rubber rollers, which cost it a 0.5 star.

20' Edgewater w/ Loadmaster aluminum dual-axle bunk
5 stars because the factory reps picked it up at my father's house twice, replaced the problem SS Disc brakes (Tie Down Eng.), and stand behind their product without hesitation. Expensive, but worth it!

jimh posted 01-14-2002 01:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[The dates on this thread are all out of whack because it spans a calendar year change.]
Arch Autenreith posted 01-14-2002 01:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
I have a Shorelandír with a hinge. Itís ok I guess. The roller and bunk brackets are all rusting so Iíll have to replace them sometime. They werenít galvanized but I guess thatís not common. Only about $100 or so for replacements. The hydraulic coupling corroded to its present non-working state. I didnít maintain it much so I guess thatís my fault. I canít imagine one single situation where I would use the hinge. Has anyone else?
Chesapeake posted 01-14-2002 02:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
My Nauset has a galvanized E-Z Loader under it. I have been very happy with it thus far, but after reading LHG's comment, I wish I cold do it over with a Continental.

Incidentally, this is a 2 bunk trailer for a '69 16.7 hull. Should I be adding keel rollers? Is this very difficult? I would think just go under the trailer while boat is on and snug them up. One the boat is off the trailer, then raise them a 1/4 inch?

Would appreciate any thoughts.

BW

Chesapeake posted 01-14-2002 02:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
My Nauset has a galvanized E-Z Loader under it. I have been very happy with it thus far, but after reading LHG's comment, I wish I cold do it over with a Continental.

Incidentally, this is a 2 bunk trailer for a '69 16.7 hull. Should I be adding keel rollers? Is this very difficult? I would think just go under the trailer while boat is on and snug them up. One the boat is off the trailer, then raise them a 1/4 inch?

Would appreciate any thoughts.

BW

Tsuriki BW posted 01-14-2002 02:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tsuriki BW  Send Email to Tsuriki BW     
My Dauntless 14 sits on a Calkins keel roller/bunk trainler. It JUST fits in the garage. 2 keel rollers. Plan on getting the "slick strips" for the bunks and replacing the "black" rollers. Pulls very well.

Tsuriki

David Pendleton posted 01-14-2002 03:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Pendleton  Send Email to David Pendleton     
Chesapeake:

With all due respect to Larry, there is nothing wrong with EZ Loader. Any painted trailer will rust eventually.

Yours is galvanized, you say. I wouldn't plan on it rusting anytime soon.

triblet posted 01-14-2002 04:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Arch, I have a removeable tongue on my Shorland'r.
This is the equivalent function to the hinge.
I use it every time I put the trailer in the
garage, otherwise it won't fit.

But if you don't need a hinged or removeable
tongue, don't bother.

Chuck

Arch Autenreith posted 01-14-2002 06:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
Chuck.
I didn't say it clearly. The hinge I'm talking about is the one that allows for tilting. For the life of me I can not think of a single time when I would use it. And I've been to a lot of different ramps.
Hmmmmm....
daverdla posted 01-14-2002 06:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for daverdla  Send Email to daverdla     
I have a galvanized Long trailer that is hinged. It also has galvanized walk ways from front to back. I was wondering when it might be necessary to use unlock the hinge. Someone explained to me that it would be useful for retrieving the boat where the ramp dropped steeply. Is that how it works? I doubt I'll ever use it.

Dave

lhg posted 01-14-2002 07:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Tilt bed trailers use the tilting function at SHALLOW ramps, not deep ramps. And they are only for keel roller trailers, when the boat has to be winched all the way on the trailer.

I have one of these under my 18 Outrage and I use the tilt often. Using this feature, you can get a boat on a trailer without having to back it it too far. The tilt allows you to get the rear roller down low enough so the bow of the boat will slide on to it.

daverdla posted 01-14-2002 07:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for daverdla  Send Email to daverdla     
Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

Dave

Mark Gallagher posted 01-14-2002 08:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Mark Gallagher  Send Email to Mark Gallagher     
I have a Load Rite galvanized trailer. Bunk Style with keel rollers. Single axle with brakes and buddy bearings. Trailer is 6 years old and in excellent shape still. I service bearings and seals annualy and have had to replace brake parts due to corrosion once and wheels cylinders for leaking. Trailer brakes take a beating!

Whan I bought my 17 Dauntless I asked about brakes for the trailer and the Salesman stated I didn't need them. Trailer is 2400# capacity. I opted to pay extra $250 for brakes and glad I did but they are certainly an added maintenance item. As the salesman pointed out! Glad I can do my own work.

Load Rite Trailers are made in Fairless Hills, Pennsylvania just outside Philadelphia. GO EAGLES. I see alot of them in this area and think they are of good quality. Loadrite.com
Mark

Pat Smith posted 01-22-2002 07:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for Pat Smith  Send Email to Pat Smith     
Continental,came with the outrage that I bought in Tampa.Great trailer,no problems.-Pat Smith
Chesapeake posted 01-22-2002 12:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
If anyone could address the issue of adding keel rollers to a bunk trailer, it would be appreciated.

Mine is a 2 bunk trailer for a '69 16.7 hull. Should I be adding keel rollers? Is this very difficult? I would think just go under the trailer while boat is on and snug them up. Once the boat is off the trailer, would you then raise them a 1/4 inch or so to take the pressure off the bunks and put it on the keel?

Thanks.

JFM posted 01-22-2002 01:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for JFM  Send Email to JFM     
noswah, I am sorry I did not reply when you ask me the question about it being harder to launch in shallow water with keels. My post says that I find it harder to launch in shallow water with dubble bunks on both sides and no keels. Its much harder to lunch the dubble bunk in shallow water. The last time I used the Montauk before I sold it, I had complained in another post. I had to launch 5 miles further away in Fla. to find deeper water. For the 13' Sport it's a breeze with keels and tilt. I can launch her almost anywhere. Regards,Jay
JFM posted 01-22-2002 02:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for JFM  Send Email to JFM     
Ches., that sounds like a good way to do it and yes I would have 4. It would be easier to lift your boat up if you can to make the adjustments. Regards, Jay

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