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  Pull plug when mooring?

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Author Topic:   Pull plug when mooring?
Landlocked posted 03-30-2002 08:55 AM ET (US)   Profile for Landlocked   Send Email to Landlocked  
Yesterday after my first trip out with the new motor, I decided to rent a slip and leave the boat in the water a couple of months. I pulled the plug as I got out of the boat and then watched and waited for the water to quit coming in. Finally jumped back in a put the plug in when the tunnel became completely full and there was no sign of stopping. How much water should come in? Battery is in console. tanks are full and under seat.

Ll.

jimh posted 03-30-2002 09:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Please mention:
--what boat
--what motor(s)
--what water (fresh or salt)
Landlocked posted 03-30-2002 09:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
78 Montauk, 90hp 2002 Merc 2-stroke. Fresh water.

Sorry

Ll.

Dr T posted 03-30-2002 10:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for Dr T  Send Email to Dr T     
Given some lessons from CSW, I would suggest not doing this. The brass is vulnerable to corrosion. If this corrodes, then water will get inside the hull where it can permeate (eventually) into the hull.

SO, you may be able to get away with it for a while, but long term it is a non-starter. Rather, use a mooring cover to keep rain out.

If you are mooring for that long, suggest you have bottom paint.

tds

jimh posted 03-30-2002 10:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
You might want to experiment with the plug out and see just where it settles (not on the bottom, I hope).

On the models with the tunnel connected to the bilge sump, it sounds like you are going to get water reaching into the tunnel.

On my 15-Sport, water will fill just to the top of the sump. If there were a tunnel, it would travel up the tunnel, too.

A cover keeps the sun off the boat, too, and that can do more damage than (fresh) water might.

Landlocked posted 03-30-2002 11:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
Boat is in a covered slip. Probably won't get much more than wind blown rain. (Stern of boat is a good 5' from edge of roofline. Console and seat are covered.

Next time I'm out I'll pull the plug and let her sit for a while and see what happens.

Ll.

mbking1 posted 03-30-2002 06:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for mbking1  Send Email to mbking1     
I have a 99 Montauk and a Merc 60 four stroke. I pulled the plug to see how much water came in. Not bad at all. Let us know what you come up with, The amount of water you describe is very unusual. Mark
Dr T posted 03-31-2002 12:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for Dr T  Send Email to Dr T     
Should have said "permeate into the foam". Given the unusual amount of water coming in, it raises a question:

Have you weighed the hull?

tds

PMUCCIOLO posted 03-31-2002 01:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for PMUCCIOLO    
Landlocked,

Perhaps you've mentioned it and I didn't see it, but do you have an automatic bilge pump? We kept our Montauks in the water overnight, and the automatic pump was quite nice to have.

I, as have the other responders to your questions, suggest a mooring cover. If that is too inconvenient, I'd recommend covering the console, pilot seat, and cooler seat.

I hope that this helps!
Paul

Landlocked posted 03-31-2002 07:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
Went back out to Kentucky Lake and checked on the boat today. Despite 3 days of heavy rain - no additional water was in the boat other than what I had let in experimenting with pulling the plug. Automatic Bilge Pump (Rule 500) is not working - (internal float switch constantly jams). Baled the water out with a cup. Added 6 large bumpers to my side of the slip. Removed the battery, crossed my fingers and left. Kind of like cutting the umbillical chord having the boat that far away. Probably good for both of us though. ha ha.

I think I'll get to use it more this way. I can leave a little early from work and go straight to the lake without having to swing by the house pick up the boat launch and load etc. Just experimenting. Separation anxiety may get the best of me.

Ll.

bc posted 03-31-2002 09:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for bc    
Landlocked,

Greetings from another "landlocked" Tennessian. I've yet to "pull the plug" on my 15, but will in due time. While in Florida last year, I got the nerve to pull the plug on my Sundance Skiff that I had. It was in clear "Knee deep" water. Not hardly any water came in. My whaler draws more so I'm sure more will come in. But shouldn't be a problem. Good luck to you on your Montauks new home on the water.

bc

Landlocked posted 03-31-2002 11:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
Thanks BC

I've pulled the time or two while out with the family just to rinse coolaid and oreos off the deck. With a loaded boat, water rushes in quick and you have to be ready to nail the throttle when the water level passes your predetermined comfort zone. Don't get me wrong. I trust in God and Whaler and I know it won't sink but there just something unnatural about water climbing up your pants leg.

Had I left the plug out in the slip the other day and had the guts to sit and watch, It might have stopped coming in after the tunnel was full. Just couldn't bring myself to do it. I'll take your advice and try it in shallow water this summer.

Dr. T. Haven't weighed my hull but have no reason to expect its been compromised w/water. Seems light enough on the trailer and there are no obvious dings or repairs.

LL.

triblet posted 03-31-2002 11:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
If you have a bilge pump with a float switch,
it should be wired with an SPDT center off
switch. Throw the switch one way, and the
float switch controls things. Throw it the
other way, and the pump runs, no matter what
the float switch says. And if you wire a
pilot light on the second circuit, the pilot
light also comes on when the float switch
runs the pump.

My '97ish Montauk has the extra wire
wire required.


Chuck

triblet posted 03-31-2002 11:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
I'm going to try to draw the circuit with
character graphics:
Float switch
/
+--------------+ +--+
|
+12 ----+ SPDT |
\ |
+-+-----------------+---->Pump 12V
|
PilotLight
|
GND --------+---------------------->Pump Gnd

Chuck

triblet posted 03-31-2002 11:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Arrgh, didn't work. Jim nicely removed all
the leading blanks.

Oh well

Chuck

Landlocked posted 03-31-2002 11:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
Got it!

Old switch was wired when I got the boat. I have replaced all other guages, fuse pannel, and switches but left the old bilge switch hanging up under the console until I could find a suitable replacement.

The float switch is definately a problem. If water comes in slow and the float slowly rises it will kick on and the pump will drain the water.

If however, water comes in very quick, the switch gets raised beyond the "on" position and the pump never comes on. I have to take the pump apart and manually lower the float to get it to work again.

Ll.

Landlocked posted 03-31-2002 11:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
Paul,

Saw what you meant about needing a mooring cover today. Darn Geese!

Ll.

jimh posted 04-01-2002 08:37 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
It wasn't "Jim" who removed the spaces, it was the HTML standards. Drawing stuff with ASCII art was great when everyone had a VT-102 terminal, but there is no guarantee of how text will be rendered by a browser. A hyperlink to a graphic image works really well for this purpose in HTML.
andygere posted 04-01-2002 12:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Throw away the float switch and get one of the new switchless automatic pumps (Rule Platinum) I have one in my Montauk, kept in a slip with an older boat cover. "Advanced computerized operation on the principle of impeller resistance. Float switches are not required. Once power is supplied, the pump will turn on for about one second to sense for water. If water is detected, the pump will continue to run until all water is removed. If water is not detected, the pump will turn off. It will check for water every two minutes. If after five consecutive checkes no water is detected, its computer will change the cycling mode to every ten minutes. If and when water is detected during these checks, the pump operates at reduced power and is very quiet. Only when it detects water will it power up to full capacity." I have left it unattended during the rainy season for over 3 weeks without killing the battery. When I'm out fishing, my feet never get wet as the pump always removes water from the sump before it accumulates on the deck. It can be forced on simply by turning it off then on again (use a simple on-off switch on the dash). In addition, it takes up much less room in the crowed sump than a pump and float switch. Leaving the plug out will result in a lot of messy slime and growth inside your boat.

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