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Author Topic:   wood for consonle
philmoses posted 04-27-2002 01:57 PM ET (US)   Profile for philmoses   Send Email to philmoses  
Hello all,
I have begun putting together my winter projects for next year ( yes I know it isnt even summer yet) and I will be building a new console for the 15 footer I have.
My questions are concerning the wood to use, advantages disadvantages of teak over mahogany etc. Please feel free to provide any comments/tips/suggestions you have. The console will replicate the one I have in there now, which is not the original, much taller, but is a side console, I would like to house the batteries underneath, throw in a drawer for tackle, open area just under the top for vhf and the like. I am drawing up the plans just I am not much of a wood aficiando [sic] and would like suggestions.
browning20ga posted 04-27-2002 08:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for browning20ga  Send Email to browning20ga     
IMHO, I'd recommend Philippine mahogany. Teak is mega expensive and Philippine is
much prettier and finishes better than
Honduran mahogany.
Flipper posted 04-28-2002 10:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for Flipper  Send Email to Flipper     
I've always found that Honduran had a rich,dark red color; didn't need any help to get that way (by that I mean staining),and it finishes beautifully.I guess "prettier" is a matter of opinion, but Phillipine "mahogany" is a blonder, more domestic looking wood shade.It finishes nicely too, but it wouldn't be my choice.
Duncan posted 04-29-2002 11:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for Duncan  Send Email to Duncan     
I would opt for a more durable species that requires no finishing or future maintainence...

Latin name: Starboardus Imperviata

...grows only within the confines of large chemical plants and, left properly unfinished, it will not check, split, fade, peel, rust, leach extractives, bubble the topcoat or give you a splinter.

Tom W Clark posted 04-29-2002 11:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     

If you are trying to match the original wood your Whaler had then you probably want (so called) Philippine mahogany.

Honduran mahogany is much superior to Philippine mahogany (which is not mahogany at all) and is (one of) the traditional boat building woods. It is both more attractive and more durable but it will cost more money.

You could use teak. You could even use teak and then varnish it but that would be both more money and more work. But it's really up to you.

For more about the wood used in Whalers see the comments at the tail end of this thread:

Mad Dad posted 05-09-2002 12:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for Mad Dad  Send Email to Mad Dad     
Just bought a 15 footer and am looking to do the same. The bench seating is clumsy for fishing and moving from bow to stern. I would have to agree with flipper. Honduran Mahogony has more color and is much denser. Phillipine is softer and much easier to sand. Another option is to try Koa, very similiar to Teak, but less expensive. Denser woods tend to endure the elements better, stick to the mahoganoy, koa, teak, maybe even walnut. The key will be in how you finish or protect the wood. Varnish is one option that most boat owners know the end results, sanding and revarnishing possibly less than every other year. Fiberglassing, messy and I have had a strange opaque white coloring appear. An option I will try is using Lindseed oil. Gives wood has a nice finish, easy to apply with a brush and rag. Every 6 months, if the wood is clean, simply reapply, if not clean, scrub with soap and water. If you neglect it, you would have to resand the wood to smooth it out, but resanding the wood is much more attractive than resanding varnish. If you use this method, make sure you use gorilla glue (urethean based. Wipe the excess off when wet, it is hard as nails when dry.

Question back to philmoses, what type of fasteners are you using to attach the console to the deck? I saw a drawing with rough wood locations on this sight, but I am not confident in using screws into 3/4 inch plywood. You would also need to squirt silicon sealent into the holes, but this is not a guaranty water will not seap down the screw. Would like to see your drawings, next winter.


AZdave posted 05-09-2002 02:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for AZdave  Send Email to AZdave     
I used Phillipine mahagony on my '68 13ft Whaler. It seems to match the existing wood. It is fairly soft and light, and works really well in terms of sanding, gluing and finishing. I finished with oil because the intense sun and high temperatures here in AZ can cause a sort of delamination of of varnished surfaces. The oil is really not durable though. You might look for high quality plywood with a mahagony surface. As the console gets larger, glued up pieces will have more of a tendency to split or crack due to expansion and contraction with changing humidity levels. I was not able to fit a standard starting/ deep cycle battery under the new console. That might be for the best. Many batteries outgas during recharging. It might be worth trying to partition the console so the acid bearing gases did not get up in the electronics etc. Just my 2 worth. Dave
whaletail posted 05-09-2002 08:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for whaletail  Send Email to whaletail     
Hi Phil,
I had the same question before starting my Menemsha project. Here in the NW, there wasn't much of a price difference between the two, teak being a little more expensive. The difference is density. Teak is a really tough, waxy wood. Being a woodworker, I was impressed with how much heavier teak is over mahogany. Smells great when working with it, and has more character(nice grain).
I can see why teak was the wood of choice way back when.
(I have before/after shots if interested)

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