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  Trailer rework?

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Author Topic:   Trailer rework?
leobfish posted 04-29-2002 12:22 AM ET (US)   Profile for leobfish   Send Email to leobfish  
I bought my new ('89) 22' OR Cuddy this weekend. I'm waiting for the transport outfit to bring it from the West Coast. To bide my time I'm coming up with ideas to spend more money on her and the occasional thought about saving some. The only problem with the deal as far as I'm concerned is that it has a roller trailer. The previous owner didn't trailer her so he included this one in the deal. The trailer is tandem, all four wheels have brakes, all new, as well as new axels. Since I've got my eye on a new 9.9 kicker, I'd like to save the dough to buy it by replacing the rollers with bunks instead of buying a new trailer. Any suggestions on the finer points of a project like this?
Thanks
kingfish posted 04-29-2002 09:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Should be fairly straight forward - make sure you wind up with support under the transom.

If you really are looking for ways to spend money and time, think about adding keel rollers too. I added them to my bunk trailer for my Outrage 22', and while some may consider it over-built now, I am happy as a clam and so is my boat.

kingfish

Whalerdan posted 04-29-2002 10:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdan  Send Email to Whalerdan     
I did this same thing to my trailer. On mine, the rollers were pretty much in a straight line (forward to aft) on the trailer. I just removed the rollers and mounted bunks right on top of the roller arms with some galvinized brackets I found in Home Depot. It's been this way for two years and seems to be working great.
tuna1 posted 04-29-2002 10:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for tuna1  Send Email to tuna1     
Boston Whalers by design are designed to be supported by a keel roller trailer only. Weither it has side rollers or bunk pads does not really matter,because there should be "NO WEIGHT On The Side Support System". The side system is only there to stop side rocking and provide balance. It should not carry any of the hulls weight. If the trailer under your boat is a "Roll On" with only side roller supports and no keel rollers to support hull,it NEEDS Many Keel Roller to support weight at the KEEL Only.The skin of a Whaler Hull Outward from the keel is not thick and strong enough to support the weight of the hull,and if done so leeds to delaimination of the hull.Think of a Whaler Hull as A EGG SHELL Very Strong in 1 dirrection only,and can be CRUSHED very easy in other directions.Obtain a Factory Manaul for your boat,it will contain the info need for seting up the keel roller trailer as the factory designed and built your hull. Enjoy her for many years to come...
triblet posted 04-29-2002 10:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
My owners manual says bunk trailers are OK.

Chuck

hardensheetmetal posted 04-29-2002 12:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for hardensheetmetal  Send Email to hardensheetmetal     
I owned a 1988 22 Revenge w/t for five years, before selling it last summer. I purchased the boat with a roller trailer, and stored the boat for five winters on that same roller trailer. After learning that this was in fact the incorrect trailer for the boat, I checked the entire hull, and (happily) found no delamination or indents. I considered changing the rollers to bunks, but then sold the boat. I realize the bunks/keel rollers are correct, but if the bunks are only there for lateral support, why would it make any real difference if you had 15 or 20 rollers per side, as opposed to a carpeted bunk.

Dan

Jerry Townsend posted 04-29-2002 01:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jerry Townsend  Send Email to Jerry Townsend     
Leobfish - welcome to the ContinuousWave forum. Jimh has a lot of good information regarding trailering in the reference section that should be of interest to you.

There continues to be debate regarding bunks and rollers. My Shoreland'r trailer under my 17' OR has two 7 inch wide bunks each about midway between the keel and the gunwale. Being familiar with Kingfish's modifications to his trailer, I started thinking about adding a contoured bunk right under the keel to carry 2/3 or 3/4 of the weight. Better, more uniform support and a lot cheaper support on the keel than rollers. The keel bunk carpet could be peridically sprayed to reduce the friction. I e-mailed Shoreland'r and BW soliciting their comments. Shoreland'r thought the idea was good - but 'overkill'. I have not heard from BW. My reaction - though possibly a bit 'overkill', I see an advantage and will do it. It is designed - uniform, contoured support along about 1/2 of the keel - and won't take all that long to build.

Incidently, my manual for my 17' OR states "... choose a float-on style of trailer that has bunks which conform to the shape of the hull, give support near the keel, and provide good fore and aft support. Trailers equipped with side rollers instead of side bunks can damage the foam sandwich hull of your boat and should never be used." Unfortunatley, there are a lot of subjective words in their 'requirements' statement.

Jerry/Idaho

Whalerdan posted 04-29-2002 02:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdan  Send Email to Whalerdan     
When I converted mine to bunks, I ended up with 2 bunks on each side (4 total). The lower bunks match up right on the keel in the front and are not more than 4 inches apart the rest of the way. This seems close enough to the keel for government work.
Whalerdan posted 04-29-2002 02:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdan  Send Email to Whalerdan     
P.S. IMHO side rollers of any kind aren't a good idea. If you had keel rollers holding the weight with side rollers stablizing it won't stay in this configuration bouncing down the road and going around corners. The weight would kind of teater totter in to the side rollers.
leobfish posted 04-29-2002 11:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for leobfish  Send Email to leobfish     
Thanks for the info y'all, this really is one helluva site. Hats off to JIMH for the work he puts into this as well as to all of you for taking the time to work with us neophytes. With a little pencil lead, elbow grease and some hops and barley I may get this done.

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