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Author Topic:   Looking at '81 22 Outrage

TX_Bill posted 05-03-2002 09:55 AM ET (US)
Hi, I'm new to the site, been browsing religiously over the past 10 days. God, what a resource! Going to look at an '81 22 Outrage w/'94 Yam250 power (carbed). I'm taking a friend who's an old whaler guy (had a 70's vintage 19). And I've been through the reference site on buying a classic, but wanted any other tips that anyone might have for assessing the condition and value of this particular model. Thanks in advance.
DaveS posted 05-03-2002 11:25 AM ET (US)
Bill,
I was looking at another board and stumbled upon this:
http://www.wmi.org/saltfish/sboats_for_sale/T4593.htm#1
If it doesn't work out with the one you are going to see.
I have no idea the shape, just saw the posting and thought someone would be interested in it.
Good luck.
DaveS
TX_Bill posted 05-03-2002 11:54 AM ET (US)
Dave,
Thanks. That's the exact boat I'm going to look at. We'll see how it turns out. The post you list says '97 Yam, it's really a '94 (earlier post on that board was correctly listed as '94). I wasn't ACTIVELY looking, but this one drew enough of my attention to drive 5+ hours each way and check out. Hopefully it will be worth it.
--Bill
jimh posted 05-03-2002 12:25 PM ET (US)
HULL:
The primary concern on any older Whaler is the integrity of the hull structure. Look for any damage, any repairs, any signs of water intrusion. Hulls with bottom paint can conceal flaws. Check drain tubes --there are many of them-- for condition. These have a habit of rotting out and not being noticed. If the drain tube has rotted there may be water in the hull.
If hull has good integrity and no signs of water intrusion, check for original condition, that is, no ham-bone modifications and no missing components (like hatch covers or cockpit panels).
Wooden components should be there. Even if in rough shape they can often be restored. At worst they can be used as patterns to make new.
For me, the more original and untouched the boat the better, unless you are looking at a boat owned by a real craftsman who also happened to be a great designer. Many home-brew additions are not quite factory quality in design and construction.
ENGINE: 250-HP is plenty of power, actually slightly over rating (240-HP). The usual engine concerns apply: lower unit integrity, compression check, general appearance.
ACCESSORIES: often overlooked is the value (or lack of value) of accessories. Hydraulic steering is a big plus. A good trailer a huge plus. Usable canvas a plus. Look for Mills canvas--it always has a silk label sewn in. Fishfinders and radios from 1981 have negative value. You have to remove them and fill the holes they leave behind.

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Author	Topic: Looking at '81 22 Outrage
TX_Bill	posted 05-03-2002 09:55 AM ET (US) Hi, I'm new to the site, been browsing religiously over the past 10 days. God, what a resource! Going to look at an '81 22 Outrage w/'94 Yam250 power (carbed). I'm taking a friend who's an old whaler guy (had a 70's vintage 19). And I've been through the reference site on buying a classic, but wanted any other tips that anyone might have for assessing the condition and value of this particular model. Thanks in advance.
DaveS	posted 05-03-2002 11:25 AM ET (US) Bill, I was looking at another board and stumbled upon this: http://www.wmi.org/saltfish/sboats_for_sale/T4593.htm#1 If it doesn't work out with the one you are going to see. I have no idea the shape, just saw the posting and thought someone would be interested in it. Good luck. DaveS
TX_Bill	posted 05-03-2002 11:54 AM ET (US) Dave, Thanks. That's the exact boat I'm going to look at. We'll see how it turns out. The post you list says '97 Yam, it's really a '94 (earlier post on that board was correctly listed as '94). I wasn't ACTIVELY looking, but this one drew enough of my attention to drive 5+ hours each way and check out. Hopefully it will be worth it. --Bill
jimh	posted 05-03-2002 12:25 PM ET (US) HULL: The primary concern on any older Whaler is the integrity of the hull structure. Look for any damage, any repairs, any signs of water intrusion. Hulls with bottom paint can conceal flaws. Check drain tubes --there are many of them-- for condition. These have a habit of rotting out and not being noticed. If the drain tube has rotted there may be water in the hull. If hull has good integrity and no signs of water intrusion, check for original condition, that is, no ham-bone modifications and no missing components (like hatch covers or cockpit panels). Wooden components should be there. Even if in rough shape they can often be restored. At worst they can be used as patterns to make new. For me, the more original and untouched the boat the better, unless you are looking at a boat owned by a real craftsman who also happened to be a great designer. Many home-brew additions are not quite factory quality in design and construction. ENGINE: 250-HP is plenty of power, actually slightly over rating (240-HP). The usual engine concerns apply: lower unit integrity, compression check, general appearance. ACCESSORIES: often overlooked is the value (or lack of value) of accessories. Hydraulic steering is a big plus. A good trailer a huge plus. Usable canvas a plus. Look for Mills canvas--it always has a silk label sewn in. Fishfinders and radios from 1981 have negative value. You have to remove them and fill the holes they leave behind.