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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Revenge console layout
|Author||Topic: Revenge console layout|
posted 05-05-2002 12:24 AM ET (US)
Does anyone have any pics of their consoles? I'm interested in Revenge models mostly? Jim, I believe you said you had your throttles mounted on the side instead of on top of the console. I'd sure like to see what that looks like.
My belly tank project is comming back together. I'm trying to get ideas on how to put my gages, switches, radios, etc laid out in a functional manner. I'd really like to install my fishfinder/gps in the main panel, if it'd fit. Anyway, ideas and suggestions for putting the Revenge back together would be appreciated.
New carpet for the interior due here Tuesday. I can't wait!
posted 05-05-2002 06:19 AM ET (US)
I do not know if this will work for you, but Walt Steffens has a 25 Revenge WT, and is thinking about going with a Blue Seas breaker panel. He might mount it, and I don't know if you have the same setup, just inside entryway below, on the vertical fiberglass panel. You would reach around and operate it with your left hand (or the first mates right hand, I guess...)
That way he's got more space for instruments, and breakers would be an upgrade into the 80's, at least....
I ended up using a Blue Seas on my Outrage, and placed it inside a flushmount panel with a moveable plexiglass door. If you want, I can send some .jpg's of the setup.
posted 05-05-2002 09:31 AM ET (US)
The REVENGE instrument panel is something of a dilema for me, too. I can't decide where to mount my stuff, either.
At the moment, there is really nothing mounted on the laminated flat top of the console. I do have the FishFinder and the GPS mounts screwed in there, and I have the FF and GPS mounted there, just behind the wheel, on their stand-up mounts (i.e., not flush mounted). This is actually quite functional, but it does not look like a "pro" installation.
On the "instrument panel" (a removable aluminum black-anodized panel set into the raised area behind the console which is shaded with a tinted plexiglass shroud) the original installer mounted the engine gauges. There are two Yamaha multi-function Tach guages and two voltmeters.
My VHF radio is mounted atop the area where most people have the binnacle mount engine controls.
Having described all this, I can tell you that I have stood there looking at it and given plenty of thought to where things ought to go and what should be mounted where.
My instincts tell me that the engine controls should be binnacle mounted, but that would be an expensive retro-fit (probably $1,000 by the time I bought two controls and four new cables). The side-mounted controls work fine, and on a functional basis there is no reason to replace them. Binnacle mounted controls would be nice, but it is just too much work and money at this point.
(One thing I am learning is that you can make working on the boat a full-time job, leaving no time left to actually use it.)
For the engine gauges, I think I would like them to be mounted on the top of the laminated console. Since they are all circular devices, it would not be too hard to drill the holes. I also think that if you had to repower, there is a good chance the new engines would be able to use most of the gauges--or at least the same holes--so you would not be left with a bunch of useless holes in the laminated console top.
This is the problem with my current layout, since all my engine gauges are mounted on the aluminum panel above the console. That forces me to consider mounting the FF and GPS on the top of the console. If I flush mount my FF and GPS on the laminate, I'll have a strange group of cut outs. A few years down the road these holes might not match the new FF or GPS or whatever else you want to mount there.
On the other hand, I really like having the FF and GPS right behind the wheel because they have controls on them that I need to adjust ocassionally. If they were mounted on the aluminum panel I would have to reach forward to get to them.
A solution to avoid having to cut irregular holes in the console laminate is to create a wood sub-base, flush mount the FF and GPS into the wood (teak?) sub-base, leaving just a few small circular holes to be drilled in the laminate to allow cables to enter and connect to the FF and GPS. This would give flush mounted looks, add some wood trim, and avoid cutting strange shapes in the laminate.
Having said that, I can tell you that on Steve and Caroline Farnsworth's 21-WalkAround BACKLASH (which has a similar layout to its helm console), the flush mounted GPS and FF on the "instrument panel" look absolutely great and operating them does not seem to be a problem.
What keeps me stuck with the current set up is the thought of all the work in moving the engine gauges down to the laminated console top, then fabricating (or buying) a new aluminum insert for the top panel, and cutting irregular shapes in it to flush mount the FF and GPS.
Well, now that I have taken you through this long narrative of my thinking, here is what I would do if starting from scratch:
Engine controls: binnacle mount on console as intended. The question here is which route to you take for the control cables? Through the tunnel or under the gunwale?
Engine gauges: cut circular holes and mount them to the top of laminated console. Plan the layout for good symmetry and good positioning of crucial gauges. For a wonderful example see LHG's layout of sixteen (!) gauges on a Montauk-size console:
Acessory Instruments: flush mount them to the aluminum instrument panel at rear of console.
Radio: mount radio (on its bracket) at either the front face of console or on the gunwale. Mount radio facing straight up. (I would do this but my side mounted engine controls are there and the radio would interfere with them.)
posted 05-05-2002 09:42 AM ET (US)
I agree with Walt and Don; the electricals of a c.1980 REVENGE are pretty baroque.
Refitting with a small breaker panel would be a nice upgrade. You might be able to buy an engraved escutcheon panel from Whaler and mount your own breakers on it.
posted 05-05-2002 10:57 AM ET (US)
I've got a similar dilemma--where to mount a new FloScan unit. It'll probably be under the wheel, to the right. FloScan makes an adaptor so that the unit will face upwards. The previous owner mounted his radio on the inside of the hatch cover. It's relatively easy to get to there though you have to have the cover up to have full access to the radio. If I ever have to replace the unit, I'll probably get a more compact one and look for another place to mount it--maybe on the outside "flap" of the hatch cover. I've also installed a flat piece of teak, about 7x10, on the flat part of the dash to hold depthfinder and GPS. One of these days I'll get one of those combination units from Garmin and save more space.
posted 05-06-2002 12:47 AM ET (US)
Wow!! It's nice to see I'm not the only one in Dream land. I have too many choices to make and so little time to make them. I'm finding out what JimH said is true. One can work on their boat full time and never see the water. I've had so many cracks and blistered gel coat under the floor and in the tank area. I think I've been sniff'n too much epoxy and gel coat.
Anyway, Don, please e-mail me any photo's of your console if you don't mind. Thanks.
JimH, I have a piece (7" x 10") teak under my plexiglass cover. Thought about getting a new piece of Mahagony and cutting out a combo Fish Finder/Gps, a Tac, water pressure gauge, and voltmeter. But I can't decide what guages would look good on the red mahagony. Lido series or red and black type. See my post on the repairs/mod section. I too can't decide to run the cables under the gunnwel or back in the trough. Now is the time to decide. The fabric is comming in Tues to refinish the interior then I've got to put it back together.
Any pics of the consoles or transome with engine cables would be appreciated.
posted 05-06-2002 11:31 AM ET (US)
I just noticed some swivel-base radio mounts in the BoatUS online catalog. It's an offset (about 6") swivel. Looks like a great way to mount the radio on the top of the control panel and swivel it out of the way of the instruments while running.
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