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  RE: Late model waterlogged whaler

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Author Topic:   RE: Late model waterlogged whaler
BrettDD posted 05-05-2002 06:15 PM ET (US)   Profile for BrettDD   Send Email to BrettDD  
Well I have owned my 1986 11' bw sport for a while now. There was some damage on the front chine that permiated the fiberglass. After reading the fact that BW's foam will indeed soak up water I went to haul mine out and fix the problem and bottom paint it. Well, it took 4 of us to lift this thing that is suppose to weigh in at about 250 lbs. My guess is somewhere nearer to 350lbs. I have fixed my problem and bottom painted the hull and when it is facing the sun with the black bottom paint you cant touch the bottom it is soooo hot and water is now leaking from every screw hole, etc... since it is laying now upside down which gave me some thought on how to unwaterlog the whalers. We recorded temps of about 160 degrees on the bottom painted surface and the water that is inside the hull is vaporizing and forcing its way out wherever it can. I will do this for a while and see how that turns out, in the meantime I will get a scale to weigh it and of course reweigh it after a couple weeks of this. Another thought is what if you found an industrial oven and put the whole thing inside and cooked it to about 200 degrees or so for some time with stragically placed holes to vent the water vapor? Any thoughts? Thanks and sorry this is so long.
JohnAz posted 05-05-2002 10:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnAz  Send Email to JohnAz     
Living in Lake Havasu ARIZONA,,,,we dont have the waterlogged problem,,,120 deg. in the summer and it's dry heat
JimU posted 05-06-2002 09:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
i asked Chuck Bennett ay whaler for his advice which I have followed on another project. Using a one-inch hole saw Cut holes through the interior fiber glass skin in a pattern of one foot by one foot, takeing care not to remove any foam. Turn the boat upside down, cover with visqueen, allowing it to come down to the ground to create an oven effect, let it sit in the sun for a couple of months and it will dry out. JIM
BrettDD posted 05-06-2002 11:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for BrettDD  Send Email to BrettDD     
My whaler weighed in at just about 320lbs.. so there is almost 13 gallons of water.

JimU, if I am to understand your posting I am suppose to drill a 1" hole every square foot of the whaler? Hmm.. that would be like 40 holes or so. I think I will try it with about a dozen or so and cover it with black plastic as you suggested and hang about 50Lbs of calcium Carbonate inside it to soak the moisture that escapes hopefully speeding the process. Thanks for the suggestion!

Just for the record, I dont think leaving the bottom paint exposed to the sun will not work since the foam also acts as a wonderful insulator, so I am thinking that it will indeed dry out a small portion of the foam that is closest to the bottom skin then the rest will be insulated from the heat.

BrettDD posted 05-06-2002 12:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for BrettDD  Send Email to BrettDD     
OOPS.. make that Calcium Chloride and ignore the double negative.. LOL.. well I havent had my coffee yet.
WantaWhale posted 05-06-2002 05:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for WantaWhale  Send Email to WantaWhale     
BrettDD,

How bad was the chime damaged? Could you see foam? One of my chimes had a crack in it and a small piece of gelcoat was missing. You could see the glass (it was ok) but no foam.
I have repaired it already but after reading all these posts on waterlogged whalers, I want to be safe than sorry.

1996 SuperSport '11

Thanks, Fletch

BrettDD posted 05-07-2002 12:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for BrettDD  Send Email to BrettDD     
Fletch,
No, I couldnt see the foam, seems the chines are formed from glass so the foam is deeper. I repaired mine by grinding it back to good fiberglass, making a tape mold to hold some west systems 2 part epoxy way thickened with high density filler, and then shaping it once it cured. Came out so you cant even tell there was ever any damage, but the damage was already done by being soaked internally. I would definately repair it as soon as possible, some of the glass in the chine wasnt wetted properly and so there were free strands of fiberglass to wick the water throughout the hull. .I am not sure if this is the case in all whalers but mine for sure. If you want to know more about how I repaired the chine, let me know I would be more than happy to give what advice I know. Also, take a good look at the through holes, my boat was dragged around a lot and seep, so my new task is to find out how to replace these. Anyone replaced the brass tubes they use as through holes on the bottom of small BW's???

good luck and thanks.

crashq posted 05-08-2002 02:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for crashq  Send Email to crashq     
I also had some damage to the bow chine on my Outrage. The fiberglass guy that was associated with the local Whaler dealer,drilled opened up the damaged area and removed the damaged foam. After that he drill a hole at the very bottom of the transom, tilted the boat towards the stern and let it drain for three weeks. Then he glassed filled in the damaged area with epoxy and glassed over both the damaged area and the hole in the transom.

I wouldn't recommend baking the boat. While it will probably hold up to the heat, it will likely age the gelcoat, fiberglass resin and the foam.

WantaWhale posted 05-08-2002 03:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for WantaWhale  Send Email to WantaWhale     
BrettDD,
yes please tell me more. Let me make sure we are talking about the same thing. On mine, the fiberglass was ok it just the gelcoat (the very thin white outside coating) was cracked and chiped. After seeing how thin this stuff is I can see how easy it would be to chip/break and I would think whaler would know this too. I put one of the chips on it myself when the keel hit the rubber roller on the trailer a bit to hard. I guess what I am saying is would they really make this gelcoat layer stuff so thin if just a chip would allow so much water to be absorbed or does your fiberglass have to be damaged as well?
I thought the gelcoat was mostly for appearance? I have tried repairing nicks and such on the boat with 3 different methods: Gelcoat in a tube, Gelcoat that you mix up, and marinetex to see which one holds up the best. Any light you can shed would be appreciated...

Thanks, Fletch

BrettDD posted 05-08-2002 04:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for BrettDD  Send Email to BrettDD     
The gel coat is not only for appearance but also the first barrier the inside of your hull has to moisture. If you just have a nick or chip in your gel coat then you are affecting the proper repairs with just using gel coat repair kit (eg. marine tex or equivilent). You still have water protection via the fiberglass unless it has been comprimised as well. Gel coat on any boat isnt that thick so that isnt an issue. My boat, the idiots drug this poor thing in and out of the water onto their pickup and destroyed about a foot of the front chine on either side exposing fiberglass. I fixed this by griding out the comprimised fiberglass, building a tape mold to hold the contour of the chine and filling it with 2part epoxy waaaay thickened to peanut butter consistency with high density filler and then grinding/sanding it to shape. You cant even tell it was ever damaged now.

Crash,
Do you happen to know how much water was soaked into your whaler and how much was drained using this method?

Thanks

crashq posted 05-08-2002 07:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for crashq  Send Email to crashq     
The fiberglass guy did not tell me exactly how much water was in there, but it was in the gallons. I think the key is to have at least two holes: one near the damaged area to allow air in; and one near the back for the drain. Otherwise the draining will go more slowly. Its kind of like pouring gas out of a gas can. If the vent is closed it pours a lot more slowly. That is the impression I got from his repair.
WantaWhale posted 05-08-2002 10:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for WantaWhale  Send Email to WantaWhale     
Brett,
Thanks, just wanted to make sure I wasn't making a mistake with my repair materials.
So far they have held up well.
Good luck with your repairs, sorry to hear that the former owners were abusers.
Sine you are also an BW 11' owner, can you recommend a brand/size anchor that will fit in the bow locker? I recieved one for a gift but it was too large and I really need to get one...

Thanks, Fletch

BrettDD posted 05-09-2002 06:00 AM ET (US)     Profile for BrettDD  Send Email to BrettDD     
actually what I use is the fold up anchor called a "Folding Grapnel Anchor" from your favorite and mine <sarchasm is deep here> West Marine and can be found in the following link ----.. crimany.. never mind. it was about a 2 page link.. so.. go to http://wwww.westmarine.com then under "shop online" on the left of the page click anchor/docking then. scroll down to "anchors" then... in all their infinate wisdom.. click river/lake anchors... yep.. thats right. thats what I thought too.. anyway.. at the bottom is the anchor I use. folds up really nicely and holds really well for its size.

let me know how this works for you. Had a long night with girl friend.. its 3am.. its time to sleep.. (theres a country song in there somewhere! LOL) anyway.. hope this helped.

Bdd

JohnAz posted 05-09-2002 09:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for JohnAz  Send Email to JohnAz     
I replaced my worn brass drain tube with a piece of pvc, it's been in there for several years now and works
WantaWhale posted 05-12-2002 11:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for WantaWhale  Send Email to WantaWhale     
Brett,

Hey thanks for the help, I picked it up Sat afternoon. I noticed they had several sizes of that anchor...the smallest was only
about 2.5 inches long...so tiny it must be
for a radio controlled boat or something.
I got the one thats about 10 inches or so. (3lbs). Got it all hooked up but wish there was a way to store it without bow locker door pinching the rope when it's closed. I guess I could cut a small slit in it. Have you had any problems with the rope because of the cover?

Good luck with the girlfiend and thanks,
Fletch


BrettDD posted 05-15-2002 11:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for BrettDD  Send Email to BrettDD     
Thats exactly what I did. Cut a slit in the lid, but I also made a bronze corner piece that is screwed on the corner with the same slit in it so it looks better and keeps the wood from splitting.

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