Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
|Author||Topic: Screw holes|
posted 05-09-2002 10:44 AM ET (US)
I'm ready to reattach railings and wood seating into the original hull holes on my 13 ft Sport Classic. The holes are not stripped. What is the best method to assure a secure reattachment and no water entry? I'm sure this is an old question but I could not fiqure out how to "key word search for old articles" in this website. Does anyone have that answer also.
posted 05-09-2002 11:09 AM ET (US)
I would bed the screws with 3M 5200.
posted 05-09-2002 11:28 AM ET (US)
5200 is probably what you want as Brian suggests. I recently used this for some other things on my boat and used the "fast cure" version which was nice as it set up pretty quickly - good for what I was doing at the time - probably makes no diff on your usage. Others have also advocated Marine Tex or West System epoxies - mostly for repair of stripped holes.
To search for something on the site, I usually call up a full two years of posts and use the browser search bar under Edit. If you have Google loaded as a tool bar you can use the Search Site option on it. The Browser based search will just search the subject lines of the displayed threads. I cannont remember if Google does the same of the entire site.
Good luck !
posted 05-09-2002 11:50 AM ET (US)
I would (and did) use 3M 4200 for this application. 3M considers 5200 to be for "permanently" assembled parts and they don't consider screws and rails to be permanent. They recommend 4200 for this kind of usage.
posted 05-09-2002 12:08 PM ET (US)
On my dad's 1961 houseboat, we have mounted and remounted the engine a number of times. The last 2 or 3 times, we've used 5200 on the bolts. Will they come out, again, yes. 5200 is good stuff, but it isn't as permanent as alot of people think. If I were remounting a railing, I'd use 5200, unless I was planning on removing it next year. If I intended it to be there for the rest of the time I owned the boat. 5200
posted 05-09-2002 08:32 PM ET (US)
I used "Gorilla Glue" to re-fasten the last two sets of screws for the loosened railings in my Montauk. I think it is especially useful for fastening screws in wood which may be "wet" due to infiltration of rain, or other moisture, since the label says it uses water to set up. I believe 3M 5200 and gorilla glue are similar chemically in that they are polyurethanes. "Great Stuff" foam is also a polyurethane, though not a good material for this application.
I have noticed that once you open a tube or either 5200 or 4200 the part you don't use left in the tube starts to harden and pretty soon (one or two days!!) there's a one inch plug of hardened material blocking the exit nozzle rendering extrusion of the remaining produce nearly impossible. On the other hand, you only need a small drop of gorilla glue per screw hole, and if you cap it right up the label says it's good for 2 years. They're not giving 5200 or 4200 away either.
posted 05-09-2002 11:41 PM ET (US)
There were other posts about this elsewhere but, for 3M 4200 and 3M 5200, put the unused portion in the freezer. It will keep a very long time. So far, mine has kept for 4 months. I haven't had any around longer than that.
posted 05-17-2002 04:25 PM ET (US)
Exactly how do you use the 5200 when you do this? I have found no way to "inject" it into the hole as the air below bubbles it back out. Is just dipping the screw threads into the sealant satisfactory?
posted 05-17-2002 06:11 PM ET (US)
Does anybody know how Boston Whaler installs the rail screws into their BRAND NEW boats?
What bedding compound, if any do they use. If none, why? I have never removed any rail fitting on my Whalers, purchased new, and with plywood mounting pads, that had the rail screws set in 4200 or 5200, or anything else, for that matter.
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