Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
  Advice: Restoring Teak Cabinets/ Drawers

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Advice: Restoring Teak Cabinets/ Drawers
dlipner posted 05-21-2002 04:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for dlipner   Send Email to dlipner  
What is the best means of striping old weathered varish. There has been some discussion on heat guns, chemicals, sanding. I also understand that they can be 'dipped'. Can anyone speak to what works best?
OutrageMan posted 05-21-2002 09:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
I think that sanding is the best method. Takes longer, but the results are great, and there are no chemicals.

I wrote an article on it. You can read it @

http://www.brianblazer.com/whaler/bwwoodcare.htm

Brian

vdbgroup posted 05-21-2002 10:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for vdbgroup  Send Email to vdbgroup     
Drew,

Mr. Blazer is right-on. One extra recommendation get a Porter-Cable orbital sander model #333 about $70.00 at Home Depot.
And go to town. You will find that with a good sanding and application of chemicals to treat the wood, i.e. kill bacteria that causes graying of the finish, that a two or three applications of teak oil will sustain a good shine for several seasons. My Teak hatch doors on my montauk and deck hatch have lasted over 5 years with only one coat applied since initial rehab.

Did you close?

Rick

dlipner posted 05-22-2002 02:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for dlipner  Send Email to dlipner     
Thank you Brian, and Rick,

I will go the route of the sanding with the router. I would assume that the slats will have to be done with care by hand, as will all of the nooks, etc.

Thank you both, Drew

OutrageMan posted 05-22-2002 05:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
Um, you don't sand with a router...

Brian

ratherwhalering posted 05-22-2002 05:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
dlipner:
When sanding those louvers (the door slats should be called "haters") try using the 3" stick-on sand paper (Gator Grip), cut in strips and stuck on a tounge depressor or similar thin strip of wood. You'll drive yourself nuts with ordinary sand paper. These and are cheap to make and are great for sanding hard to get to places. Give it a shot, you won't regret it!
dlipner posted 05-28-2002 01:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for dlipner  Send Email to dlipner     
Rick, Brian,

Thank you for the advice. I went forward with the orbital sander and the surface came right back. There was some serious weathering, graying, sun damage, so I opt'd for 120 and plan to finish with 220. Before I finish however, what would you suggest to clean the wood. I'd prefer to stay away from the harsh stuff. Do you guys like Teak Plus?

Also, any suggestions on filling screw holes?

Tom W Clark posted 05-28-2002 01:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
dlipner,

You're on the right track. Sanding the wood is the best way to get down to clean wood. DO NOT use a chemical teak cleaner. Do not use anything. Sand it down until it looks like new and then finish to your taste. You would only use a cleaner if you did not want to sand the teak down.

As far as sanding the louvers what I have done in the past is take some adhesive backed sand paper and stick it on something thin, flat and fairly stiff like a putty knife and get in between the lovers that way, much like ratherwhalering suggests.

I now own a Fein Detail Sander and this is the tool for doing louvers. No way I will ever go back to doing them by hand. If you don't want to buy one (c. $175-$200) you might want to look into renting one for doing the louvers.

For sand paper I would start with 100 grit and work up to 220.

To fill a screw hole I suggest you drill it out to 1/4" or 3/8", if need be, and then glue in a plug. Cut your own plugs with a plug cutter from the hardware store and cut them from a piece of wood that matches what you are repairing as far as color and grain are concerned. Be sure to glue the plug in with the grain aligned and it will be nearly invisible.

dlipner posted 05-28-2002 02:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for dlipner  Send Email to dlipner     
Tom,

Thank you for the suggestions. What about using a Dremil (spl?) drill with unique sand fitting? Do you have any suggestions as to where I could rent a finish sander?

JFM posted 05-28-2002 02:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for JFM  Send Email to JFM     
d, Fein isn't the only detail sander out there. I have a Bosch 1294. It was about $50 over the net. I also have a Fein, but would not spend the extre money for 1 or 2 projects. Regards, Jay
Tom W Clark posted 05-28-2002 03:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
dlipner,

As Jay points out, there are many manufacturers of detail sanders. Fein remains the best though.

I certainly wouldn't buy any of them if it was just to refinish the louvers on my Whaler. Rent one instead from just about any tool rental place in town.

If you’re in San Fransicso then I'm sure you have lots of rental places to choose from. Look in the yellow pages under "Rental Service Stores" or "Tools, Rental". One national chain that comes to mind is Hertz Equipment Rental.

A quick look at one of my local Seattle rental outfit's price list has the detail sander at $14 per day (they'll getcha' on the sand paper though). How can you go wrong?

Leener posted 05-28-2002 10:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Leener  Send Email to Leener     

In one of your posts you asked about using a Dremle tool for sanding. Please do not use a tool like that (several companies make them) on your teak or anywhere else on your Whaler for that matter. They spin at ~30000 RPMs and can quickly gouge almost any surface when guided by inexperienced hands. The other posts have given good guidance. Good luck.
Leener
John O posted 05-29-2002 10:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
Just finished my NewTauk RPS seat. Still don't know what RPS is. At any rate I used a Mikita hand held sander and worked 60,150,220, and finally 400. Used Dremel at a low speed with a heavy grit than light grit for the areas hard to reach at. Between the slats. Applied Sikkens (SP.?) Cetol and will light sand and recoat tommorow. Plus a third Looks good to me. The guy before me used Sikken but never bothered to sand or remove form the boat.
OutrageMan posted 05-30-2002 08:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
RPS = Reversible Pilot Seat
John O posted 05-30-2002 10:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
Ahhhh .....that would makes sense....Thanks

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.