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Advice: Restoring Teak Cabinets/ Drawers
|Author||Topic: Advice: Restoring Teak Cabinets/ Drawers|
posted 05-21-2002 04:02 PM ET (US)
What is the best means of striping old weathered varish. There has been some discussion on heat guns, chemicals, sanding. I also understand that they can be 'dipped'. Can anyone speak to what works best?
posted 05-21-2002 09:40 PM ET (US)
I think that sanding is the best method. Takes longer, but the results are great, and there are no chemicals.
I wrote an article on it. You can read it @
posted 05-21-2002 10:03 PM ET (US)
Mr. Blazer is right-on. One extra recommendation get a Porter-Cable orbital sander model #333 about $70.00 at Home Depot.
Did you close?
posted 05-22-2002 02:05 PM ET (US)
Thank you Brian, and Rick,
I will go the route of the sanding with the router. I would assume that the slats will have to be done with care by hand, as will all of the nooks, etc.
Thank you both, Drew
posted 05-22-2002 05:11 PM ET (US)
Um, you don't sand with a router...
posted 05-22-2002 05:38 PM ET (US)
When sanding those louvers (the door slats should be called "haters") try using the 3" stick-on sand paper (Gator Grip), cut in strips and stuck on a tounge depressor or similar thin strip of wood. You'll drive yourself nuts with ordinary sand paper. These and are cheap to make and are great for sanding hard to get to places. Give it a shot, you won't regret it!
posted 05-28-2002 01:18 PM ET (US)
Thank you for the advice. I went forward with the orbital sander and the surface came right back. There was some serious weathering, graying, sun damage, so I opt'd for 120 and plan to finish with 220. Before I finish however, what would you suggest to clean the wood. I'd prefer to stay away from the harsh stuff. Do you guys like Teak Plus?
Also, any suggestions on filling screw holes?
|Tom W Clark||
posted 05-28-2002 01:33 PM ET (US)
You're on the right track. Sanding the wood is the best way to get down to clean wood. DO NOT use a chemical teak cleaner. Do not use anything. Sand it down until it looks like new and then finish to your taste. You would only use a cleaner if you did not want to sand the teak down.
As far as sanding the louvers what I have done in the past is take some adhesive backed sand paper and stick it on something thin, flat and fairly stiff like a putty knife and get in between the lovers that way, much like ratherwhalering suggests.
I now own a Fein Detail Sander and this is the tool for doing louvers. No way I will ever go back to doing them by hand. If you don't want to buy one (c. $175-$200) you might want to look into renting one for doing the louvers.
For sand paper I would start with 100 grit and work up to 220.
To fill a screw hole I suggest you drill it out to 1/4" or 3/8", if need be, and then glue in a plug. Cut your own plugs with a plug cutter from the hardware store and cut them from a piece of wood that matches what you are repairing as far as color and grain are concerned. Be sure to glue the plug in with the grain aligned and it will be nearly invisible.
posted 05-28-2002 02:03 PM ET (US)
Thank you for the suggestions. What about using a Dremil (spl?) drill with unique sand fitting? Do you have any suggestions as to where I could rent a finish sander?
posted 05-28-2002 02:29 PM ET (US)
d, Fein isn't the only detail sander out there. I have a Bosch 1294. It was about $50 over the net. I also have a Fein, but would not spend the extre money for 1 or 2 projects. Regards, Jay
|Tom W Clark||
posted 05-28-2002 03:05 PM ET (US)
As Jay points out, there are many manufacturers of detail sanders. Fein remains the best though.
I certainly wouldn't buy any of them if it was just to refinish the louvers on my Whaler. Rent one instead from just about any tool rental place in town.
If you’re in San Fransicso then I'm sure you have lots of rental places to choose from. Look in the yellow pages under "Rental Service Stores" or "Tools, Rental". One national chain that comes to mind is Hertz Equipment Rental.
A quick look at one of my local Seattle rental outfit's price list has the detail sander at $14 per day (they'll getcha' on the sand paper though). How can you go wrong?
posted 05-28-2002 10:39 PM ET (US)
In one of your posts you asked about using a Dremle tool for sanding. Please do not use a tool like that (several companies make them) on your teak or anywhere else on your Whaler for that matter. They spin at ~30000 RPMs and can quickly gouge almost any surface when guided by inexperienced hands. The other posts have given good guidance. Good luck.
posted 05-29-2002 10:44 PM ET (US)
Just finished my NewTauk RPS seat. Still don't know what RPS is. At any rate I used a Mikita hand held sander and worked 60,150,220, and finally 400. Used Dremel at a low speed with a heavy grit than light grit for the areas hard to reach at. Between the slats. Applied Sikkens (SP.?) Cetol and will light sand and recoat tommorow. Plus a third Looks good to me. The guy before me used Sikken but never bothered to sand or remove form the boat.
posted 05-30-2002 08:29 AM ET (US)
RPS = Reversible Pilot Seat
posted 05-30-2002 10:04 AM ET (US)
Ahhhh .....that would makes sense....Thanks
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