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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Hey, what's the deal with transom savers?
|Author||Topic: Hey, what's the deal with transom savers?|
posted 05-30-2002 07:05 PM ET (US)
They used to say that you will ruin your transom without one, now, Bass Pro sells one that connects to the motor bracket rather than to the rear cross-member of the trailer. They say it protects the transom from stress caused by the boat shifting on the trailer during transport, while at the same time protecting the trim/tilt cylinder from stress from the road - bums, pot holes... This then basically does the same thing as locking the engine against the lever that most outboards have installed on them - does it not?
posted 05-30-2002 07:27 PM ET (US)
Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see why anyone would need a transom saver when you consider how much stress the engine puts on the transom while the boat is under power. The stress created by the engine while going down the highway doesn't even come close, and the stress is also in the same direction.
posted 05-30-2002 07:48 PM ET (US)
Addtionally look at your trailer bouncing down the highway. I think a good amount of shock is transfered to your lower unit with a transom saver.
Some people cut a piece of PVC pipe and use it to support tilt/trim instead of relying on the engine support lever.
posted 05-31-2002 01:45 AM ET (US)
I have had the item you saw for 5 months now. Works fine. Then again I had no problems before I got it. Swiv-L-Eze only makes the bracket for Mercs, which does not reccommend the use of the little tilt lever for trailering. I have a 17 Alert with a converted Montauk console and a 90 Merc 4-stroke. It will be sitting off and on in Gas House Cove for the next 4 months fishing Halibut, Bass, and Salmon.
posted 05-31-2002 08:55 AM ET (US)
I use a piece of wood pinched inbetween the motor mount and the motor (90 merc). It is a wide as the motor mount and about 12 inches deep. It takes all the stress of the tilt trim, distributes the weight onto the lower part of the transom,(the strongest part)and can be cut to size to allow the motor to be trailered at whatever height you desire. Plus it cost close to nothing to make. I painted it black and you hardly know it's there. Merc has that goofy,weak brace that,as stated earlier, should not be used for trailering. I found that when I did use it the motor rode too high and bounced horably on the highway. If you can think of any way this could damage my boat let me know. I use it all last year and no problems. Have a great boating weekend!~mw
posted 05-31-2002 10:20 AM ET (US)
I bought a 16 Checkmate that had one....transom was shot. Guess they don't work:)
My aluminum tailers have no holes to mount it so it sits in my garage. I'll figure out something that it can be used for.
I trailer down or at least where the trim grabs. You just want to keep it from bouncing. I think they were made mainly for boats without PTnT.
posted 05-31-2002 11:37 AM ET (US)
I also us ethe wood support for my motor when trailer works great and best of all is chaep.....what can you do for motrs without T/T? The wood wont work cause there is no pressure on it.
posted 05-31-2002 11:46 AM ET (US)
Hey FISHNFF, what city do you work for? S.F.? Got a few buddies who work at SFFD.
posted 05-31-2002 12:32 PM ET (US)
I'm along the lines of ShrimpBurrito: I have a hard time understanding how a well constructed transom could be damaged by travel over the road, when you're talking about the same transom that cantelivers all the thrust of the engine against the weight of the boat underway. Granted, the thrust of the engine is usually a little more uniform than bumps on the road, but consider the force of getting air under the hull, then having the prop bite the next wave...
posted 05-31-2002 12:33 PM ET (US)
My 1975 70 hp Johnson and my 2001 90 hp Johnson both have a built in trailer bracket. Was OMC the only company providing this feature on their outboards?
posted 05-31-2002 02:34 PM ET (US)
I use a transom saver on my Nauset. The engine is a 98 Suzuki 90 and the owners manual recommended its use. I agree that the transom should be strong enough to support without the saver (my dad and I hauled this boat with a 100 hp Merc Power Tower and full power tilt without any problem for more than 20 years)but because the manufacturer advised to use it I did. The $25.00 I spent on the transom saver seems to be cheap insurance policy on my transom.
posted 06-02-2002 12:29 PM ET (US)
As bigshot mentions, I also trailer with the engine in the down position. I raise the engine until it just comes off the trim cylinders and onto the single tilt cylinder. Then I lower it until it just bumps onto the tops of the twin tilt cylinders.
This puts the skeg far enough of the ground you can trailer on the highway without much worry. If you pull into a driveway which has a big dip, you might be in trouble--just look out for them.
This technique is not possible with some narrower beam boats on bunk trailers. In those set ups they carry the boat really low on the trailer and you must tilt the motor up to have enough clearance.
On my 15-foot Sport I can can trailer with the motor in the operating position. That is handy because it does not have power tilt.
posted 06-03-2002 12:29 PM ET (US)
The owner's manual with my new Evinrude specifically says not to use a transom saver while trailering the engine. It says only to use the tarlering bracket supplied.
posted 04-03-2007 10:33 PM ET (US)
This five year old discussion was recently revived, however, I have removed the recently added comments and closed this discussion. If you need to revisit a topic which has been dormant for five years it is better to start a new discussion.
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