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Author Topic:   13 Sport Oars

MyNauset posted 06-17-2002 05:59 PM ET (US)
My 66 sport is going back in the water! It is not done but close enough!
It has oar lock fittings. What length oars originally came with this boat? It seems 6' should be enough? Any suggestions?
Thanks, Bruce
cyclops posted 06-17-2002 07:59 PM ET (US)
I've got the original oars for my '69 sport and they're 6'.
MyNauset posted 06-17-2002 10:31 PM ET (US)
Thanks,
That's what I'll get!
Bruce
Chris J posted 06-18-2002 11:59 AM ET (US)
I think Whaler supplies 6 foot oars with all their small boats, but the longer the oars (within reason) the better the power.
An often-cited rule of thumb for oar length is 1/2 beam (distance between oar locks) times 3, plus 6 inches. That may actually work out to about 6 feet for the 13 foot Whalers.
T_Bro posted 06-18-2002 12:20 PM ET (US)
Can you add oarlocks to a mid 80s supersport? I was wondering if the wood in the gunwales would support the stress. Any ideas of who would have the right oarlocks for installation?
Thanks,
Todd
MyNauset posted 06-18-2002 09:49 PM ET (US)
Hey all thanks for your replies.
Todd,
In my search for the right oars I found an oarlock fitting that is cast into a right angle type bracket that I think would screw/maybe glue, straight to the side/top of the gunwale? I saw these in Kmart so they may not be of very good quality but the idea is there. Mine are molded right into the gunwale.
Bruce
Chris J posted 06-19-2002 11:04 AM ET (US)
The oar locks on my old 13 are inset right into the gunwale, not on the edge. I don't know what they are seated in but I have rowed the boat a fair amount and had no signs of trouble.
The Kmart locks might be OK if they are cast bronze. I'd stay away from chromium ones because you never know what kind of pot metal might be under the chrome.
Be aware that oar locks are under considerable strain when you are rowing. If they are just held on with a couple of wood screws they won't last long.
timbo posted 06-24-2002 09:21 AM ET (US)
On my 73 13' sport there aren't any oar locks so i improvised. My dad used the chop saw and cut them down so they fit between the rail and side walls on bothj sides of the boat. It worked out great. No annoying rattling and incase any thing ever happens to the 1991 yamaha 40 im not completly in trouble.
Eric Hinz posted 06-24-2002 12:05 PM ET (US)
I too am looking into oars for my 'Workboat Whaler' (13 footer). From the internet, I found the following formulas:
A. From "Boats, Oars, and Rowing" (by Culler, out of print, quoted in Glen-L website):
(beam x 2) + 6"
B. From "Sail and Oar" (by Leather, out of print, quoted in Glen-L website):
[(beam x .5)/7] x 25
C. From West Marine (and also mentioned by Chris J above):
[(beam x .5) x 3] + 6"
I measured my 'workboat whaler' and found the oarlocks were 58" apart. Applying the formulas above yields:
A. 122"
B. 104"
C. 93"
It depends on how much serious rowing you may need to do, but it would appear that 8' oars (96") might be appropriate. Certainly they will be harder to stow, but should make for much more efficient rowing.
Does anyone have experience with oars longer than 6' in a 13' Whaler?
Eric
JM325iX posted 06-29-2002 04:08 AM ET (US)
I have 6'6 Oars in my '67 13 Whaler Classic, they work quite well, and I have rowed the boat many a time on "rowboat only" lakes...
John
Tom W Clark posted 06-30-2002 03:13 AM ET (US)
The length of oars will depend on the person doing the rowing. I would think 8 foot oars would work well for rowing the 13' Whaler but you don't see them on 13’s equipped with oar lock sockets because they are difficult to stow. A 6' oar stows very nicely.
Regarding the oar lock sockets, these cannot be added latter. The are molded into the hull when it is laid up. The bronze sockets used on Whalers are an off-the-shelf part but they are have a plastic cap stuck on the end to make it closed ended and waterproof.
The sockets are (were) set on the mold and then gel coated over including the wood screws that were simply set into the sockets and thus pointing up into the air before the gel coat and chopped glass were applied. No wood backing is involved, it is just the fiberglass holding the sockets.
If you own an old Whaler with oar lock sockets, do not remove the screws! This will only break the seal with the glass and potentially allow water to penetrate. Also, do not poke a screw driver down the socket to see what is down there. You will poke through the plastic end cap and create an avenue for water to enter the hull.

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Author	Topic: 13 Sport Oars
MyNauset	posted 06-17-2002 05:59 PM ET (US) My 66 sport is going back in the water! It is not done but close enough! It has oar lock fittings. What length oars originally came with this boat? It seems 6' should be enough? Any suggestions? Thanks, Bruce
cyclops	posted 06-17-2002 07:59 PM ET (US) I've got the original oars for my '69 sport and they're 6'.
MyNauset	posted 06-17-2002 10:31 PM ET (US) Thanks, That's what I'll get! Bruce
Chris J	posted 06-18-2002 11:59 AM ET (US) I think Whaler supplies 6 foot oars with all their small boats, but the longer the oars (within reason) the better the power. An often-cited rule of thumb for oar length is 1/2 beam (distance between oar locks) times 3, plus 6 inches. That may actually work out to about 6 feet for the 13 foot Whalers.
T_Bro	posted 06-18-2002 12:20 PM ET (US) Can you add oarlocks to a mid 80s supersport? I was wondering if the wood in the gunwales would support the stress. Any ideas of who would have the right oarlocks for installation? Thanks, Todd
MyNauset	posted 06-18-2002 09:49 PM ET (US) Hey all thanks for your replies. Todd, In my search for the right oars I found an oarlock fitting that is cast into a right angle type bracket that I think would screw/maybe glue, straight to the side/top of the gunwale? I saw these in Kmart so they may not be of very good quality but the idea is there. Mine are molded right into the gunwale. Bruce
Chris J	posted 06-19-2002 11:04 AM ET (US) The oar locks on my old 13 are inset right into the gunwale, not on the edge. I don't know what they are seated in but I have rowed the boat a fair amount and had no signs of trouble. The Kmart locks might be OK if they are cast bronze. I'd stay away from chromium ones because you never know what kind of pot metal might be under the chrome. Be aware that oar locks are under considerable strain when you are rowing. If they are just held on with a couple of wood screws they won't last long.
timbo	posted 06-24-2002 09:21 AM ET (US) On my 73 13' sport there aren't any oar locks so i improvised. My dad used the chop saw and cut them down so they fit between the rail and side walls on bothj sides of the boat. It worked out great. No annoying rattling and incase any thing ever happens to the 1991 yamaha 40 im not completly in trouble.
Eric Hinz	posted 06-24-2002 12:05 PM ET (US) I too am looking into oars for my 'Workboat Whaler' (13 footer). From the internet, I found the following formulas: A. From "Boats, Oars, and Rowing" (by Culler, out of print, quoted in Glen-L website): (beam x 2) + 6" B. From "Sail and Oar" (by Leather, out of print, quoted in Glen-L website): [(beam x .5)/7] x 25 C. From West Marine (and also mentioned by Chris J above): [(beam x .5) x 3] + 6" I measured my 'workboat whaler' and found the oarlocks were 58" apart. Applying the formulas above yields: A. 122" B. 104" C. 93" It depends on how much serious rowing you may need to do, but it would appear that 8' oars (96") might be appropriate. Certainly they will be harder to stow, but should make for much more efficient rowing. Does anyone have experience with oars longer than 6' in a 13' Whaler? Eric
JM325iX	posted 06-29-2002 04:08 AM ET (US) I have 6'6 Oars in my '67 13 Whaler Classic, they work quite well, and I have rowed the boat many a time on "rowboat only" lakes... John
Tom W Clark	posted 06-30-2002 03:13 AM ET (US) The length of oars will depend on the person doing the rowing. I would think 8 foot oars would work well for rowing the 13' Whaler but you don't see them on 13’s equipped with oar lock sockets because they are difficult to stow. A 6' oar stows very nicely. Regarding the oar lock sockets, these cannot be added latter. The are molded into the hull when it is laid up. The bronze sockets used on Whalers are an off-the-shelf part but they are have a plastic cap stuck on the end to make it closed ended and waterproof. The sockets are (were) set on the mold and then gel coated over including the wood screws that were simply set into the sockets and thus pointing up into the air before the gel coat and chopped glass were applied. No wood backing is involved, it is just the fiberglass holding the sockets. If you own an old Whaler with oar lock sockets, do not remove the screws! This will only break the seal with the glass and potentially allow water to penetrate. Also, do not poke a screw driver down the socket to see what is down there. You will poke through the plastic end cap and create an avenue for water to enter the hull.