Outrage 18' - Bilge Pump and Draining Questions

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Author Topic:   Outrage 18' - Bilge Pump and Draining Questions

rmart posted 09-15-2002 10:36 PM ET (US)
I just purchased a 18' Outrage and have a few questions: First, is there a bilge pump usually installed on this model and if so, where would it be located. I know there is a self drain for the cockpit that is located in the starboard aft section. However, when the boat is on the trailer, unless it is angled to the right the water does not full drain out of the boat. Lastly, when I inspected the hull through the middle inspection port in the hull after thoroughly washing the boat I saw that water was not exiting the from the middle of the hull? The drain plug was pulled? I need to work out these draining problems before the winter stowaway comes on me since I live in the NorthEast where freezing would be an issue. I don't think I should have to leave my boat titled to the starboard side just to ensure that the self draining cockpit works....should I??
Any input is appreciated.
jimh posted 09-16-2002 01:24 PM ET (US)
The location of the bilge sump on starboard tends to promote draining when the boat is in the water because almost always the starboard side of the boat is slightly heavier. The boat will have a slight list that way.
The starboard side typically has the battery, the engine controls, the helm, and all the wiring and cables connecting them. Even on a center console boat like the 18-OUTRAGE, the cables run along the starboard side.
If the boat has a factory bilge pump it will be located in the sump area. That's why the drain plug is slightly up from the absolute bottom of the drain area--that's where the bilge pump mounts so it can be at the lowest point.
When your boat is on a trailer it is possible that the hull is not sitting perfectly level. If the hull is tilted to port then the drain will not work as effectively. Often a driveway or pavement will be crowned for drainage itself, so if you orient the boat to take advantage of the slope you should be able to get the hull to drain into the sump on the trailer.
The center of the hull contains the fuel tank cavity. The aluminum fuel tank occupies most of the space. It is also foamed in place. This area does not have a drain. Water should not be entering there in any large quantity. Once water gets into the fuel cavity the only way out is evaporation.
If the deck cover molded floor panel is well cauked, water will not collect in the fuel cavity. If the cockpit is filled with water several inches deep it is possible for water to flow into the sump, up the rigging tunnel toward the bow, and into the fuel cavity at the point where the fuel hoses traverse the wall of the fuel cavity. The holes for the fuel hose are as high on the wall as possible, so typically water does not pass through them unless the boat is really swamped with water in the cockpit.
rmart posted 09-16-2002 03:32 PM ET (US)
When you say the bilge pump is usually located in the sump area...is that the area on the stardboard side which has the self-bailing hole that can easily see without lifting any inspection port? When I look in that small cavity there is no bilge pump, just the hole for the self bail. Or do you mean a sump that needs to be inspected via one of the inspection ports? Which one??
With respect to the caulking of the deck cover, do you mean the calking around the inspection ports? I do not think that any of those are calked b/c they pop open easily. So what would you recommend for calking them?
Or did you mean the calking around the deck itself??? There is a bead of calking around that which looks to be in good shape.
The one spot that concerned me the most was when I looked inside the middle inspection port in the stern of the boat...(I think I was looking at the aft section of the stainless stell fuel tank....there was some type of fitting and hose there??) there was water almost to the height of the inspection port and this valve...As you said it was not draining. I will pump it out by hand.
I think based upon what you have said...I need to slightly tilt the boat to starboard to allow the cockpit to self drain and I need to calk the deck inspection ports.
Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks for all your input! This site is truly amazing!
tbyrne posted 09-16-2002 04:05 PM ET (US)
Water up to the top of the tank? Whoa!!
That area really doesn't drain into the bilge? I thought it did, but I newer looked into it.
Chap posted 09-16-2002 04:34 PM ET (US)
Hello,
I believe water can get into the tank cavity from behind the SSI molded plastic covers both port and starboard that have chases for the fuel lines and wires etc. viexile has frowned on this. My boat has a piece of teak used as a "nailer/screwer" on the bottom for the cover but it also helps prevent some water from getting in the tank well. You might see if you have this wood.
Apparently some boats have a tank cavity through hull.
www.continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002795.html
My tank cavity has no way of draining besides the mentioned evaporation. I use some silicone when I replace my circular inspection plates.
Thanks
Chap
jimh posted 09-16-2002 05:48 PM ET (US)
The bilge sump is the area at the rear of the cockpit on starboard. It is about a foot square, roughly, and perhaps 8-10 inches deep. It is covered by a wooden hatch. Typically the fuel line from the tank and other cables exit from this area.
The molded cockpit deck cover is about four feet wide and about eight feet long, roughly, and is a heavy molded non-skid surface which is backed by plywood. This is retained in place by several dozen screws and caulk.
The circular inspection plates are not caulked. They have rubber gaskets to seal them.
I don't know of any instances where the fuel tank cavity has a thru-hull drain. Water that gets in there comes out via evaporation.
lhg posted 09-16-2002 08:26 PM ET (US)
A Rule 1500 gph bilge pump, with conventional flapper float switch, was a factory installed option on the 18 Outrage for about $150. I made the mistake of not ordering one on mine.
But it is a fairly simple installation, with the discharge hose being bundled with the engine cables as they come out of the tunnel, discharging over the notch in the transom. There is a Beckson access plate in the starboard stern floor to ease this installation. It is not necessary to duplicate the tricky factory installed through hull. A capacity of at least 1100 gph is recommended. Smaller capacities are for fair weather boating only.
Another nice idea is to plug the 1 1/4" drain holes in the spashwell, and install an 800 gph pump in the recessed area. Put in some Dri-deck rubber/plastic matting, and you have additional storage space for a cooler, tackle box, bucket, etc. Works well.
rmart posted 09-16-2002 09:18 PM ET (US)
Thanks so much for all the helpful information. In examining the Outrage that I just bought four days ago I have learned that there was no bilge pump installed, the wooden hatch that you described to cover the sump is missing and the prior owner put the wrong access plate cover in the stern which prevented a water tight fitting.
As a result, after a thorough pressuring washing of the hull and deck, and cleaning of the teak by this excited new Whaler Owner, the tank cavity had trapped some water which had no where to escape.
One full day in the sun has solved this problem and switching the middle plate and the stern plate cover has made for a perfect fit.
I am left wondering, what is the general census though....should I seal the plates with any cauk or silicon??? Thanks again.

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Author	Topic: Outrage 18' - Bilge Pump and Draining Questions
rmart	posted 09-15-2002 10:36 PM ET (US) I just purchased a 18' Outrage and have a few questions: First, is there a bilge pump usually installed on this model and if so, where would it be located. I know there is a self drain for the cockpit that is located in the starboard aft section. However, when the boat is on the trailer, unless it is angled to the right the water does not full drain out of the boat. Lastly, when I inspected the hull through the middle inspection port in the hull after thoroughly washing the boat I saw that water was not exiting the from the middle of the hull? The drain plug was pulled? I need to work out these draining problems before the winter stowaway comes on me since I live in the NorthEast where freezing would be an issue. I don't think I should have to leave my boat titled to the starboard side just to ensure that the self draining cockpit works....should I?? Any input is appreciated.
jimh	posted 09-16-2002 01:24 PM ET (US) The location of the bilge sump on starboard tends to promote draining when the boat is in the water because almost always the starboard side of the boat is slightly heavier. The boat will have a slight list that way. The starboard side typically has the battery, the engine controls, the helm, and all the wiring and cables connecting them. Even on a center console boat like the 18-OUTRAGE, the cables run along the starboard side. If the boat has a factory bilge pump it will be located in the sump area. That's why the drain plug is slightly up from the absolute bottom of the drain area--that's where the bilge pump mounts so it can be at the lowest point. When your boat is on a trailer it is possible that the hull is not sitting perfectly level. If the hull is tilted to port then the drain will not work as effectively. Often a driveway or pavement will be crowned for drainage itself, so if you orient the boat to take advantage of the slope you should be able to get the hull to drain into the sump on the trailer. The center of the hull contains the fuel tank cavity. The aluminum fuel tank occupies most of the space. It is also foamed in place. This area does not have a drain. Water should not be entering there in any large quantity. Once water gets into the fuel cavity the only way out is evaporation. If the deck cover molded floor panel is well cauked, water will not collect in the fuel cavity. If the cockpit is filled with water several inches deep it is possible for water to flow into the sump, up the rigging tunnel toward the bow, and into the fuel cavity at the point where the fuel hoses traverse the wall of the fuel cavity. The holes for the fuel hose are as high on the wall as possible, so typically water does not pass through them unless the boat is really swamped with water in the cockpit.
rmart	posted 09-16-2002 03:32 PM ET (US) When you say the bilge pump is usually located in the sump area...is that the area on the stardboard side which has the self-bailing hole that can easily see without lifting any inspection port? When I look in that small cavity there is no bilge pump, just the hole for the self bail. Or do you mean a sump that needs to be inspected via one of the inspection ports? Which one?? With respect to the caulking of the deck cover, do you mean the calking around the inspection ports? I do not think that any of those are calked b/c they pop open easily. So what would you recommend for calking them? Or did you mean the calking around the deck itself??? There is a bead of calking around that which looks to be in good shape. The one spot that concerned me the most was when I looked inside the middle inspection port in the stern of the boat...(I think I was looking at the aft section of the stainless stell fuel tank....there was some type of fitting and hose there??) there was water almost to the height of the inspection port and this valve...As you said it was not draining. I will pump it out by hand. I think based upon what you have said...I need to slightly tilt the boat to starboard to allow the cockpit to self drain and I need to calk the deck inspection ports. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks for all your input! This site is truly amazing!
tbyrne	posted 09-16-2002 04:05 PM ET (US) Water up to the top of the tank? Whoa!! That area really doesn't drain into the bilge? I thought it did, but I newer looked into it.
Chap	posted 09-16-2002 04:34 PM ET (US) Hello, I believe water can get into the tank cavity from behind the SSI molded plastic covers both port and starboard that have chases for the fuel lines and wires etc. viexile has frowned on this. My boat has a piece of teak used as a "nailer/screwer" on the bottom for the cover but it also helps prevent some water from getting in the tank well. You might see if you have this wood. Apparently some boats have a tank cavity through hull. www.continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002795.html My tank cavity has no way of draining besides the mentioned evaporation. I use some silicone when I replace my circular inspection plates. Thanks Chap
jimh	posted 09-16-2002 05:48 PM ET (US) The bilge sump is the area at the rear of the cockpit on starboard. It is about a foot square, roughly, and perhaps 8-10 inches deep. It is covered by a wooden hatch. Typically the fuel line from the tank and other cables exit from this area. The molded cockpit deck cover is about four feet wide and about eight feet long, roughly, and is a heavy molded non-skid surface which is backed by plywood. This is retained in place by several dozen screws and caulk. The circular inspection plates are not caulked. They have rubber gaskets to seal them. I don't know of any instances where the fuel tank cavity has a thru-hull drain. Water that gets in there comes out via evaporation.
lhg	posted 09-16-2002 08:26 PM ET (US) A Rule 1500 gph bilge pump, with conventional flapper float switch, was a factory installed option on the 18 Outrage for about $150. I made the mistake of not ordering one on mine. But it is a fairly simple installation, with the discharge hose being bundled with the engine cables as they come out of the tunnel, discharging over the notch in the transom. There is a Beckson access plate in the starboard stern floor to ease this installation. It is not necessary to duplicate the tricky factory installed through hull. A capacity of at least 1100 gph is recommended. Smaller capacities are for fair weather boating only. Another nice idea is to plug the 1 1/4" drain holes in the spashwell, and install an 800 gph pump in the recessed area. Put in some Dri-deck rubber/plastic matting, and you have additional storage space for a cooler, tackle box, bucket, etc. Works well.
rmart	posted 09-16-2002 09:18 PM ET (US) Thanks so much for all the helpful information. In examining the Outrage that I just bought four days ago I have learned that there was no bilge pump installed, the wooden hatch that you described to cover the sump is missing and the prior owner put the wrong access plate cover in the stern which prevented a water tight fitting. As a result, after a thorough pressuring washing of the hull and deck, and cleaning of the teak by this excited new Whaler Owner, the tank cavity had trapped some water which had no where to escape. One full day in the sun has solved this problem and switching the middle plate and the stern plate cover has made for a perfect fit. I am left wondering, what is the general census though....should I seal the plates with any cauk or silicon??? Thanks again.