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  OMC TWC3 in a Merc- ok?

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Author Topic:   OMC TWC3 in a Merc- ok?
mustang7nh posted 05-05-2003 07:12 AM ET (US)   Profile for mustang7nh   Send Email to mustang7nh  
I have a full 2.5 gallon OMC oil from my old boat. Now I've got a Merc 225EFI, can I use one jug in its lifetime (I'll get Quicksilver from now on) or is there something proprietary for each engine? Thanks
brisboats posted 05-05-2003 08:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for brisboats  Send Email to brisboats     
You could probably use it, but why risk it? Start your new motor out fresh and use the older oil in your weedeater or dispose of it properly. Peace of mind has got to be worth more than a few gallons of two stroke oil.

Brian

T Party posted 05-05-2003 09:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for T Party    
I can't imagine how it would make one iota of difference. The OMC product is high quality two stroke oil. I have heard warnings about mixing different brands, but I'm not sure I believe them, either. Have any real tests been done on various brands of two stroke oil?

Is there any scientific evidence that Lubrimatic brand TWC-3 oil isn't just as good as the manufacturers' brands? No anecdotes, please, but if anyone has a link to a good study or could reference one, I'd appreciate it. I'm skeptical.

DaveS posted 05-05-2003 09:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for DaveS  Send Email to DaveS     
If I recall correctly, one of the saltwater fishing magazines ran a story about everything you wanted to know about oil but were afraid to ask...or something like that, a few months ago. I'll have to check to see if I still have it. Seemed to answer most or your questions about oils. Perhaps someone read that same article and has it on hand or has a better long term memory than I.
wildeone posted 05-05-2003 09:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for wildeone  Send Email to wildeone     
Dave S, I read that article in Saltwater Sportsman. In a nutshell it said if the oil is TWC-3 rated they were all equal to in that standard, however I thought they did mention a difference for Optimax oil. Don't have the article on hand anymore (don't own a Optimax, or EFI engine)ut the Saltwater Sportsman website might have it.
John O posted 05-05-2003 10:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
How much did the 2.5 gals of oil cost? How much does a new Merc 225 EFI cost?

Running the proper oil will not hurt you. Running the incorrect oil MAY.

JBCornwell posted 05-05-2003 01:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Any TCW-3 rated outboard oil will do well in your Mercury.

The reason high priced outboard oils are high priced has zero to do with performancce and a lot to do with advertizing.

Every "test" has concluded that TCW-3 oils are essentially equal and all meet all non-DFI engine needs..

Wouls Mercury, or any other maker, tell you in the manual to use TCW-3 oil if there was any risk. . . ANY RISK??

Red sky at night. . .
JB

jimp posted 05-05-2003 02:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimp  Send Email to jimp     
JB -

I hope you're right! I just insalled a 2003 Merc 225 Optimax (ended up being the best all around deal within 500 miles). The Owner's Manual says: "Mercury of Quicksilver Optimax/DFI 2-cycle engine oil is recommended for your engine. If Optimax/DFI 2-Cycle engine oil is not available, we recommend using Mercury or Quicksilver TC-W3 Premium Plus 2-Cycle Oil. Severe engine damage may result from use of an inferior oil."

That's a mouthful. It says they recommend the Merc/Quicksilver products. It doesn't say they DON'T recommend other comparable products. If I sold a product, I'd recommend mine over others... It also says severe damage MAY result, not WILL result with an inferior oil. Who makes the inferior oil? Is OMC inferior? Yamaha oil? Chevron TC-W3 (I have 31 quarts left)?

Related, but likely not as critical. The manual says about the pwer trim fluid: "Add Quicksilver or Mercury Precision Lubricants Power Trim & Steering Fluid. If not available, use automotive (ATF) automatic transmission fluid." Not OMC or Yamaha?

JB - you also mentioned "non-DFI engine needs". Are DFIs that different?

Then go back to some of the other comments - why take the risk? You shouldn't take the risk if there is a risk. But if there is no risk and its advertizing? Brings up another question, do we all get medical tests because there is a risk we may get something? Jeez, we'd spend all of our time at the doctor, or not drinking beer. Drinking 47 times your weight in milk each day is likely risky...

I still don't know the answer, I would like to see something published that says using OMC oil in your Merc is fine and Chevron TC-W3 works great in a new Optimax.

JimP

flawton posted 05-05-2003 03:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for flawton  Send Email to flawton     
My Yamaha dealer told to use the Yamaha TWC-3 oil if available. He also said that if thye Yamaha oil wasn't available that I could use OMC or Mercury TWC-3 oil. Basically what I took from the conversation is that if it is TWC-3 it is ok, if not don' use it.
witsendfl posted 05-05-2003 03:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for witsendfl  Send Email to witsendfl     
TWC-3 is TWC-3 is TWC-3. It is how the oil is rated. Go ahead and use it. Of course Merc or Yamaha wants you to ONLY use there oil.

witsendfl JimK

kglinz posted 05-05-2003 04:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for kglinz  Send Email to kglinz     
I ran DFI oil in my Optis. I didn't think it would make any difference as as the oil is injected into the "bottom end" and does not go through the injectors. I was told that it would make for a smoother idle and would give around 100 RPM more on top end. I think it did help. Can't prove it, but I think it did.
Backlash posted 05-05-2003 04:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Backlash  Send Email to Backlash     
I agree with witsendfl and JB...TWC-3 is TWC-3. The premium priced Yamaha oil seems to foul my plugs just as well as the Exxon, Chevron, etc. do. I buy the cheapest (national brand) TWC-3 oil I can find.
phatwhaler posted 05-05-2003 05:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for phatwhaler  Send Email to phatwhaler     
Fellas,
we replaced our Zodiac's 150 EFI with a 175 Opti, meanwhile we had two existing 200 EFI's on our Whaler at the CG station. We also had a partial 55 gal drum of TCW-3. After calling Mercury and talking to their oil guru we ended up buying Opt oil. He said that Opti oil is fine in a regular two stroke, but not to use regular TCW 3 in an Opti. He said a gallon or two of TCW3, in an Opti, once in a while was fine in an emergency.

You guys may have also noted that Opti oil does not have a TCW3 rating. That does not mean it's not up to the TCW 3 standard. According to the guru, I can't remember his name, the Opti oil is far and away a better product than TCW 3. He said that Mercury just doesn't want to go through the process of certifying the Opti oil, as TCW3, at this time.

Back to the original question: I seriously doubt that OMC TCW3 oil would harm your new 225 Merc. But considering the price of a new engine that little bottle of oil is worth peanuts. I would probably just add a little OMC oil to the Quicksilver oil until I used the OMC oil up.

phatwhaler out.

ps: Any of you guys notice how Opti oil in a regular 2 stroke just does't smell right? I've been inhaling 2 stroke fumes since I was about two years old, so I'm programmed to associate that smell with good times. Therefore I'll stick with TCW3, Wal Mart brand.

kglinz posted 05-05-2003 06:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for kglinz  Send Email to kglinz     
phatwhaler
Mercury says DFI oil is not for use in engines other than Optis. Don't know why. The info was on Mercury website Q&A but thats gone now.

[Deleted hyperlink to an empty shopping cart--jimh.]

Sal DiMercurio posted 05-05-2003 06:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Ok guys, dfi engines require a far better oil then a carbed engine.
The only time you should run tcw-3 oil in your dfi engine is in an "EMERGENCY", not a steady diet of it.
Let me tell you about different tcw-3 oils.
Omc, merc & Yamaha oils "FAR" exceed the tcw-3 oil rating, while walmart & of all other oils, chevron tcw-3 does "NOT' exceed the rating, it just meets it period.
We did some testing on many outboards, all omc, used omc-tcw-3 & had very few problems, the next 55 gallon drun we ordered was chevron tcw-3 oil, we had constant problems until we switched back to omc oil, so don't go around saying tcw-3 oil is all the same, because it certainly is "NOT".
FICHT Ram oil is so different from tcw-3 it isn't even compareable.
If your dumb enough to buy a $15,000 dfi engine, then go to walmart & buy their $6.00 a gallon 2 stroke oil to save $11.00 a gallon, your a fool, & will soon have major problems with your engine, then you can come back & say the engine is junk because it blew up.
Your going to learn the hard way, the very, very hardest way, through your wallet.
Put what is the recommended oil in the engine & stop whining.
Sal.
phatwhaler posted 05-05-2003 07:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for phatwhaler  Send Email to phatwhaler     
kglinz, I am only reporting to you what the man at Mercury told me. He did say that mercury DFI oil could be used with out problems in a two stroke. We have a couple of 200 EFI Mercs with hundreds of gallons of DFI oil through them.

Disclaimer: I am not an expert on outboard engines, outboard engine oils or any thing else for that matter. I haven't done any tests on outboard engines, outboard engine oils, TCW, DFI or otherwise. Anything stated in this post or the preceding post are merely my opinions based on my training and experience. Sorry I can't give ou guys the Mercury engineer's name as I am 500 miles from my rolodex.


Phatwhaler out.

JBCornwell posted 05-05-2003 07:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
DFI means direct fuel injection. That means no fuel in the crankcase along with the oil.

That means a DIFFERENT SPEC oil. Optimax, HPDI and Ficht are examples of DFI engines. Do not use DFI oil in a non-DFI engine.

Anecdotal "evidence" that high priced oils perform better than other TCW-3 oils is just that, anecdotal, and offered by someone who has an agenda to sell a particular oil.

Check the warranty on your non-DFI engine. If it requires you to use TCW-3 oil, that means TCW-3 oil will not cause damage to your engine, no matter what crap the marketeers and retailers of their branded oils preach.

Red sky at night.. .
JB

John O posted 05-05-2003 09:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
By the time this post is done that oil will be bad.
California Whaler posted 05-05-2003 09:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for California Whaler  Send Email to California Whaler     
Call it superstition, call me a sucker, but I will only use OMC oil. I had a bad experience with lubermatic TC3. Cost me a blown head and 475.00 dollars. Maybe I don't need to worry, but if I use any other oil I will.
Personal preference!
Kelly
jimh posted 05-05-2003 09:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[Administrative post]
goldstem posted 05-06-2003 09:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for goldstem  Send Email to goldstem     
I understand the issues and emotions involved. I don't understand how oil issues of any kind can cause a 'blown head'???
is that a blown headgasket? or a torched head?
brisboats posted 05-06-2003 10:18 AM ET (US)     Profile for brisboats  Send Email to brisboats     
John O... right on the money with that oil will be bad before this discussion ends.

Personally if I am running my old cross flow I'll burn lubrimatic, OMC and quicksilver, whatever I have on hand. Why? becuase she is old and tired and I can afford to lose her should she decide to go. By the same token in our tired Chevy yard truck we dump the gas we take out of the boats, she runs on it fine, but just around the yard. On the otherhand in my wifes new Audi, I insist on high octane and the best oil and filter. Yes the car is under warranty but I cannot afford to lose it and the peace of mind is worth it. Same goes for a new 225efi which I do not own, but if I did I would burn the recommended oil and gas, for all the same reasons. When your out spinning 5000+ rpms thats just one less thing on your mind. What is that worth?

The dock discussion about TWC-3 = TWC-3 is an old debate ( does it ever get settled?). But this started out as a discussion about a few gallons of leftover OMC oil and the promise to use Quicksilver once the OMC was gone. My reply was just dump the OMC and go on with it and depsite all The TWC-3 discussion, it stands. Mustang its all in your hands now.

Brian

gnr posted 05-06-2003 10:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for gnr  Send Email to gnr     
I spent a summer once working in a commercial bakery.

After we finished a run of the "premium" hotdog rolls we would set up to do a run of "store brand" rolls.

The entire set up consisted of changing the bags at the packaging station.

Marketers are the enemy.

Tom2697 posted 05-06-2003 10:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom2697  Send Email to Tom2697     
With situations such as this, I am reminded of a saying my mother told me when I left for college concerning leftover food in my 'frig many moons ago: "When in doubt, throw it out."

While I don't think it will cause a problem, how much is the old oil worth and how much stress is it causing you? Give it to a friend...

lhg posted 05-06-2003 05:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I just attended a Boston Whaler factory Rendezvous, and the Mercury people who were there gave each attendee a 2 1/2 gallon bottle (about $35) of Mercury Premium Plus Outboard Oil. I know that four of the recipients owned Yamaha engines, so I hope they don't soon blow up running this inferior Mercury oil instead of Yamaha oil!
I tried to tell a Yamaha guy that he should not use that oil in his engine, and give his bottle to me, but he refused!

I do believe that the engine branded oils are probably better, mostly because of de-carboning additives, but I prefer to add these myself, and then buy the "other" oils.

I also think that the DFI engines need special oil, which is just another high hidden cost, along with spark plugs, of running a cleaner technology engine.

mustang7nh posted 05-06-2003 08:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for mustang7nh  Send Email to mustang7nh     
Do you need to add Carbon Guard or Ring Free to you gas if you use mfg brand TWC-3?
California Whaler posted 05-06-2003 10:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for California Whaler  Send Email to California Whaler     
Goldstem,
Damages sustained required head replacement and new head gasket. This was back in "95" when I had a drinking problem. Boating and driving don't mix too well. As I look back, maybe I was not totally corect about the oil being responsible, it was more of a trim issue. Temp. got a little high. Never the less, I have had 0 engine problems in the last 8 yrs (don't drink and boat either). I do see an aweful lot of Lubermatic advertising in rebut to the additional cost of premium oil due to ads.
Kelly
Sal DiMercurio posted 05-06-2003 11:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Mustang, yes you "MUST" use a carbon deterent with "ALL" the oils, even the very best of the best oils.
If you don't, you need to decarb every 50 hours & yes, you still should decarb at least every 75 hours at minimum even if you use Ring free, [Yamaha ], Power tune, [ Merc ], or Carbon guard [ omc bombardier ].
All engine make carbon, even the 4 strokes & yes, even your car engine.
Sal
rsgwynn1 posted 05-07-2003 12:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for rsgwynn1  Send Email to rsgwynn1     
My mechanic cursed Pennzoil TW-3, and I told him I was using TW-3 from West Marine. He cursed again. I asked my West Marine guy who made the stuff and he said, "Starbrite." And he added, "It beats all the manufacturers' specifications." So maybe after I use up all the West Marine oil I'll got back to OMC brand. But I'm still in the dark as to what is really the best, or if there's any difference at all. Ain't truth in labeling a wonderful thing?
BW23 posted 05-07-2003 02:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for BW23  Send Email to BW23     
From what I have read elsewhere, there are "slight" additive differences in the oils.
Same thing for aditives in gasoline. These additives are mixed in (to Mobil,Exxon,Shell,BP,Chevron standards) when the fuel truck leaves the terminal.

We all know the we should be burning 89 octane in our OB's. Some meet the motor fuel octane standards and some do not. How do we know??

When I owned a Sea Doo PWC, they required you to run Sea-Doo oil. The rotary valves required the oil to be ash free. Never had a problem.

I would used the mfg. recommended oil through the warranty period and possibly switch to a cheaper brand at that point.

wtromb posted 05-08-2003 12:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for wtromb  Send Email to wtromb     
I own a training firm, and teach people hoe to repair locomotives. I've had the opportunity to train numerous oil additive engineers over the years. As an avid boater running twin Yamahs on my Whaler, I asked the question " is there is difference" The answer "BIG TIME" These additive companies have done extensive testing ON ALL BRANDS of two cycle marine lubricants. They tell me Mercury Premium Plus is simply the BEST!
Tom2697 posted 05-08-2003 12:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom2697  Send Email to Tom2697     
The differences are not just marketing. Some oils do have more cleaning additives in them. This is what you are paying for. However, the additives that are added to the oils are basically the same additives that get added to gasoline. If you get your fuel from a station with high pump turnover, the gas should be fresher and the cheaper oils can be used. If the fuel is of a questionable nature (ie - sat over the winter, desolate location, foreign country, etc.), go with the added protection of the higher priced oils.
ivansfo posted 05-08-2003 03:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for ivansfo  Send Email to ivansfo     
I've been using Optimax oil for my engines because dealer told me that's what they recommend regardless where I buy it from. If you can afford the expenses of boating, the extra cost of the oil isn't a whole lot.

As for using Opti oil in EFI or Carbed engines, this is NOT recommended.

This comes directly from Mercury Marine's website.

"*OptiMax Oil is ONLY for use with OptiMax Outboard engines and is NOT approved for use with EFI or Carbureted engines manufactured by Mercury Marine, nor is it recommended for use with engines from another manufacturer. "

http://www.mercurymarine.com/optimax_faqs#1043

-Ivan

Landlocked posted 05-08-2003 04:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
Don't know why I'm wading in but I am. I use Penzoil on all of my work and personal boats. Have for as long as I remember. Never had a problem. In my mind its just like different brands of gas... They all come out of the same pipeline then the various manufacturers add their "secret" ingredients. My 77 Johnson 85 lasted until 2002 at which time it still ran fine just had a few bugs. My 69 Johnson 9.9 is still running strong. The companies 80's vintage 25 Yam has never missed a beat. I don't pay for lables. If another manufacturers oil had any chance of damaging the engine it would be clearly stated in the warranty that use of any other brand of oil voids it.

Ll.

Sal DiMercurio posted 05-08-2003 07:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Sure, fillet mignon is also all the same, but theres a difference between choice & prime grades & so gos the price.
If you use pennz in your car & i pull the valve covers off, i can tell you right now that i know you use pennz, it leaves the inside of an engine filthy.
Any good mechanic knows what the inside of a pennz oil engine looks like.
The truth is, people buy it because it's cheap.
If you think pennz can compare or be in the same class as Castrol or Valvoline for your car, your very badly mistaken.
Many years ago, omc recommended, do "NOT" use Pennz in their outboards, as it is to high in sulfur content, thats why the insides of a pennz engine is orange & usually gummy.
Sal
Landlocked posted 05-09-2003 09:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for Landlocked  Send Email to Landlocked     
We eat ribeye at home. Sometimes you have to make do with what you can afford.
I sold a 79 silverado a couple of years back. It had 249,000 miles on it and had never had any oil except for Penz.

Ll.

Swellmonster posted 05-09-2003 01:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Swellmonster  Send Email to Swellmonster     
Yepper! tc-3 is tc-3.
Do we dare to talk about Merc premium and then the elusive premium plus?
Why the difference?
Sal DiMercurio posted 05-09-2003 08:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Swell, your post says how much you know about oil,....it's TCW-3, not TC-3,...which by the way means "T" =[ two stroke ] "C" [ cooled ] "W" = [ water ], the 3 is debateable, but my opinion is, it's the 3rd upgrade from the old tcw oil back in the 70s & 80s.
The old omc blue oil was tcw-2 which went the way of the dinasaur in 91, because it wasent matched with the new fuel [ if thats what you want to call it ] & couldn't lubricate enough & ....blown pistons & rings.
Sal
waltuh posted 05-09-2003 09:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for waltuh  Send Email to waltuh     
$5.94/gal is what a gallon of Wal-Mart's house brand of two-cycle tc-w3, Wal-Mart Tech-Oil, costs plus the New Hampshire sales tax of zero percent for a total of $5.94. My name is wal-tuh and I like to think of Wal-Mart as my store. My 1995 Suzuki 150 w/ carburetors runs the very, very, very best on Tech Oil from Wal-Mart. Everybody, all together now....wal-mart, wal-mart,wal-mart, hut-hut-hut. Plus, how many retails store are out there where one can purchase both a loaf of day old bread plus a gal of Tech Oil tc-w3 with the extra performance additives guaranteed included.
Sal DiMercurio posted 05-10-2003 12:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
My grand daughter was talking to me when I typed TCW-3, the "T" is 2, the "C" is Cycle [ not cooled ] & the "W" is Watercooled.
Sorry about that.
Sal
Cruiser posted 05-10-2003 11:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for Cruiser    
What is the verdict on 100% synthetic oil? I dont mind paying more if it actuall is better for the engine?
BW23 posted 05-10-2003 11:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for BW23  Send Email to BW23     
Sounds like Sal is 2 cool for kids school.
Drink cheap beer ....piss cheap beer!!!!
Buy cheap oil....burn cheap oil!!!!

WMT 55.80 close Friday !!!


Ed Z posted 05-11-2003 04:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for Ed Z  Send Email to Ed Z     
10W-40 works great for me... Just drain and add 4 new quarts twice per season... Love em 4 stokers
whalernut posted 05-11-2003 09:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalernut  Send Email to whalernut     
I use Lubrimatic and buy it by the case of 12 quarts, and the price comes out to $199 a quart and it seams fine, seams no different from the OMC oil I was useing before, but I can`t see the inside of my engine either-hmmmmm? I run 87 Octane Gas station gas in my 1975 85h.p. Johnson and I can`t tell the difference between 87 and 89 octane in my engine. Am I going to ruin my engine with 87, instead of useing 89 octane? Jack.
Sal DiMercurio posted 05-11-2003 11:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Jack, these engines are not high compression engines & were designed to run on 87 octane.
No you wont ruin your engine by running 87.
Sal
Deanster posted 05-12-2003 01:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for Deanster  Send Email to Deanster     
OK - for the last time...

Carbeurated - Any TWC-3 oil is just fine for your carbeurated engine. The standard is made for these engines.

EFI - you should probably use a better national brand oil, rather than the cheapest available. TWC-3 will work fine. Manufacturer-specific isn't required, but if you'd rather spend the bucks, it certainly won't hurt.

DFI (HPDI, FICHT, and we'll include Optimax as well, though it's a bit of a different beast) - You really really need to use the manufacturer's oil, or you'll cause problems - their proprietary oil is formulated to work with their proprietary injection system, and anything else will cause problems over time. Type and magnitude of problems dependant on many factors. Don't mess around with this on the new 'exotic' engines.

Florida15 posted 05-12-2003 02:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Florida15  Send Email to Florida15     
When I was reading the posts referring to Mercury oil, I thought they were talking about Quicksilver. Isn't that a Mercury oil ? I run it in my Johnson 50. My boat's previous owner told me that's what he used so I figured since it's a name brand oil it would be fine.
Anybody know anything about Quicksilver oil ?
frank_king posted 05-14-2003 10:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for frank_king  Send Email to frank_king     
optimax oil doesn't mix well with gas. it is not made to be mixed. do not run optimax oil in any but an optimax.

merc premium, that has been produced for years, passed the tcw3 standard when it was tested. other brands of tcw2 oils did not, fact.

merc premium "plus" is semi sythetic{sp} and has a carbon guard feature in it.

if you have an optimax,that is under warranty,and has a powerhead failure mercury CAN, at there descrection, have the oil tank on the motor sent to them for testing. to see what "kind" of oil was used, fact. {yamaha is the same way}

the only diff in the yamalube and merc premium plus is the dye that makes the color of the oil, fact.

merc and yamaha care about the long life of your engine. penn, lubromatic,wal-mart, joe blow oil corp. these people care about selling oil. buy the cheap stuff if you want.....it makes no diff to me.

just like a post i read, you can tell what kind of oil someone has been running, fact.

you can tell your friend, wife, mother, brother, sister or uncle anything you want....just don't lie to your mechanic....he knows

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