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Author Topic:   Hitch ball Loose

Landlocked posted 09-22-2003 03:00 PM ET (US)
Just a friendly piece of advice...
After all the work I did replacing bearings/fixing trailer lights/preparing boat for my trip to Fl. a couple of weeks ago, there was one thing I didn't check. This morning I hooked up my utility trailer and brought it to work because I'm going to pick up a new lawnmower this afternoon. I noticed it making some noise at the hitch when I would stop in morning traffic. Checked and found the nut had worked completely loose and was only being held in place by the cotter pin. This is the first ball I've had that even had a cotter pin. I shudder to think what would have happened if the ball had come off on the interstate at 70mph with the montauk in tow. I"ll be checking the ball from now on.
Ll
whalertim posted 09-22-2003 04:28 PM ET (US)
Another thing that can happen.
I hauled my utility trailer with a lawnmower to my fathers house this past summer. The following weekend I hitched up to a 20ft Outrage and took off to the beach. When I went to load the boat back on to the trailer at the ramp, after a fun time on the water, the trailer jumped off the ball. My heart stopped for a brief second. I had not changed the ball back out from a 1 7/8 to the required 2". Now I had just hualed this boat 100 miles. I could not beleive I made such a mistake, but I did nevertheless. You can rest asure that now I check the ball everytime I hook up.
Tim
Knot at Work posted 09-22-2003 06:27 PM ET (US)
Landlocked...
Dont worry my friend, the Montauk would keep up... :-)
jimh posted 09-22-2003 08:17 PM ET (US)
Good advice re the trailer ball. The torque specifications for the retaining nut are quite high. Mine was put on at a trailer shop. One time I tried to break it loose to change it, but I could not budge it. I have not checked lately--probably should.
waterguy posted 09-22-2003 08:27 PM ET (US)
Don't forget to check the trailer hitch assembly. The nut underneath can work loose, letting the trailer jump off the ball.
Dick posted 09-22-2003 10:16 PM ET (US)
There are a couple more things that should be checked.
Is the ball shank the correct diameter for the hole in the hitch. A 3/4" shank goes into a 1" hole a 1" shank fits in a 1" hole, big difference when asking the lock washer to do its job.
The next point allways use the lock washer and torque the H out of the nut. I set the air gun at max with the compressor at 125 psi.
If you are using a stinger clamp the ball flange in a vice, if it is on a step bumper use a good sized pipe wrench, mine is an 18", on the flange. Some flanges have flats cut for a wrench, here I use a 16" crescent.
If you don't have air use the correct size 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar.
I use the Convert-A-Ball system on my rig but have never used anything other than the 2" ball. If you do have trailers requiring different balls this is the way to go.
You can also replace your 1 7/8" couplers with 2".
Dick
AZdave posted 09-22-2003 10:57 PM ET (US)
I have a trailer with a non-locking coupler, so one of the safety chains always is fastened with a padlock. One morning I came out of the motel to find that the coupler had been released and set loose on top of the ball. I think some one had aspirations for a cheap trailer. Never hurts to do the walk-around. Dave
Jerry Townsend posted 09-22-2003 11:29 PM ET (US)
Many good comments have been offered - having the correct size ball, using a lock washer, really tighten the nut and don't forget the frequent walk around.
But, I frequently see trailers with little dinky safety chains with an aluminum link to the hitch/frame. True, it is a "safety chain", but one that guarantees that in the event of a hitch problem/failure, the trailer is free to do anything it wants with your boat. In the event that the hitch fails, your safety chains will be subjected to a relatively large impact load. Therefore, don't take a chance - use good, heavy duty safety chains with all components of steel. ---- Jerry/Idaho
Landlocked posted 09-23-2003 10:15 AM ET (US)
While I'm at it, one more piece of advice. I recently changed the hitch on a company boat trailer that had become frozen. For some reason, I decided to take the time and actually read the instructions. They clearly stated that the coupler should be attached to the trailer tounge with four (4) short bolts/lockwashers/nuts, not two long ones all the way through the tounge. Thinking about it now, it makes a lot of sense haveing four seperate fastners to fail rather than 2. Also, the coupler is tightened to the tounge in four locations spreading the load on the thin metal.
Ll
Landlocked posted 09-23-2003 03:07 PM ET (US)
Knot...
I'd say it would have done more than keep up. It would have probably beeped at me as it past me going down the highway.
A buddy of mine told a story today at lunch about a small trailer he was pulling coming loose at high speed. It past his truck, hit a ditch embankment and launched a canoe onto someone's front porch. Needless to say - his safety chains didn't do their job.
Ll.

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Author	Topic: Hitch ball Loose
Landlocked	posted 09-22-2003 03:00 PM ET (US) Just a friendly piece of advice... After all the work I did replacing bearings/fixing trailer lights/preparing boat for my trip to Fl. a couple of weeks ago, there was one thing I didn't check. This morning I hooked up my utility trailer and brought it to work because I'm going to pick up a new lawnmower this afternoon. I noticed it making some noise at the hitch when I would stop in morning traffic. Checked and found the nut had worked completely loose and was only being held in place by the cotter pin. This is the first ball I've had that even had a cotter pin. I shudder to think what would have happened if the ball had come off on the interstate at 70mph with the montauk in tow. I"ll be checking the ball from now on. Ll
whalertim	posted 09-22-2003 04:28 PM ET (US) Another thing that can happen. I hauled my utility trailer with a lawnmower to my fathers house this past summer. The following weekend I hitched up to a 20ft Outrage and took off to the beach. When I went to load the boat back on to the trailer at the ramp, after a fun time on the water, the trailer jumped off the ball. My heart stopped for a brief second. I had not changed the ball back out from a 1 7/8 to the required 2". Now I had just hualed this boat 100 miles. I could not beleive I made such a mistake, but I did nevertheless. You can rest asure that now I check the ball everytime I hook up. Tim
Knot at Work	posted 09-22-2003 06:27 PM ET (US) Landlocked... Dont worry my friend, the Montauk would keep up... :-)
jimh	posted 09-22-2003 08:17 PM ET (US) Good advice re the trailer ball. The torque specifications for the retaining nut are quite high. Mine was put on at a trailer shop. One time I tried to break it loose to change it, but I could not budge it. I have not checked lately--probably should.
waterguy	posted 09-22-2003 08:27 PM ET (US) Don't forget to check the trailer hitch assembly. The nut underneath can work loose, letting the trailer jump off the ball.
Dick	posted 09-22-2003 10:16 PM ET (US) There are a couple more things that should be checked. Is the ball shank the correct diameter for the hole in the hitch. A 3/4" shank goes into a 1" hole a 1" shank fits in a 1" hole, big difference when asking the lock washer to do its job. The next point allways use the lock washer and torque the H out of the nut. I set the air gun at max with the compressor at 125 psi. If you are using a stinger clamp the ball flange in a vice, if it is on a step bumper use a good sized pipe wrench, mine is an 18", on the flange. Some flanges have flats cut for a wrench, here I use a 16" crescent. If you don't have air use the correct size 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar. I use the Convert-A-Ball system on my rig but have never used anything other than the 2" ball. If you do have trailers requiring different balls this is the way to go. You can also replace your 1 7/8" couplers with 2". Dick
AZdave	posted 09-22-2003 10:57 PM ET (US) I have a trailer with a non-locking coupler, so one of the safety chains always is fastened with a padlock. One morning I came out of the motel to find that the coupler had been released and set loose on top of the ball. I think some one had aspirations for a cheap trailer. Never hurts to do the walk-around. Dave
Jerry Townsend	posted 09-22-2003 11:29 PM ET (US) Many good comments have been offered - having the correct size ball, using a lock washer, really tighten the nut and don't forget the frequent walk around. But, I frequently see trailers with little dinky safety chains with an aluminum link to the hitch/frame. True, it is a "safety chain", but one that guarantees that in the event of a hitch problem/failure, the trailer is free to do anything it wants with your boat. In the event that the hitch fails, your safety chains will be subjected to a relatively large impact load. Therefore, don't take a chance - use good, heavy duty safety chains with all components of steel. ---- Jerry/Idaho
Landlocked	posted 09-23-2003 10:15 AM ET (US) While I'm at it, one more piece of advice. I recently changed the hitch on a company boat trailer that had become frozen. For some reason, I decided to take the time and actually read the instructions. They clearly stated that the coupler should be attached to the trailer tounge with four (4) short bolts/lockwashers/nuts, not two long ones all the way through the tounge. Thinking about it now, it makes a lot of sense haveing four seperate fastners to fail rather than 2. Also, the coupler is tightened to the tounge in four locations spreading the load on the thin metal. Ll
Landlocked	posted 09-23-2003 03:07 PM ET (US) Knot... I'd say it would have done more than keep up. It would have probably beeped at me as it past me going down the highway. A buddy of mine told a story today at lunch about a small trailer he was pulling coming loose at high speed. It past his truck, hit a ditch embankment and launched a canoe onto someone's front porch. Needless to say - his safety chains didn't do their job. Ll.