posted 02-19-2006 09:36 AM ET (US)        

http://photobucket.com/albums/v397/fingkish/Buckdas%20Babies/

;-)

posted 02-19-2006 10:24 AM ET (US)            

The barn had one 500W Halogen work light that provided light or heat, depending upon your imagination.

I was embarassed to find I got there with a *very* low battery and no spare, so I got the first two shots then waited to the end and got one last shot of the installed motors and the battery went dead. Jerry was clicking away (with 2 cameras, I think), so I hope he had better luck with a play-by-play...

posted 02-19-2006 03:39 PM ET (US)            

Man those engines look great back there. You just turned a nice boat into a REALLY REALLY nice boat. Can't wait for Summer and go for a ride in that beauty, Dave. Just think, another month or two and there'll be liquid water to run her in!!

posted 02-19-2006 07:38 PM ET (US)            

I normally also have a small cube disc furnace, however, I did forget it this weekend, since I took it back to Chicago a few weeks ago (it was choose between battling the female roommate over setting the thermostat at 74 and paying another $300 gas bill, or bring the cube furnace home and then take it back to the barn every weekend).

Once we had the boat back in the barn (after mounting the engines outside), we were able to tent the boat, and add 3 more 500 Watt lights and a heat gun that helped warm things up a little.

When I hit the road on Saturday morning, it was 12 below zero and sunny in Chicago...by the time I hit the Michigan state line, it was -4 F and snowing like crazy!

It did climb to 10 or 11 on Saturday, but by the time Jerry and I called it a day and went to dinner, it was dropping quickly to the negative numbers again.

We went back at it again today....the console is now in the boat, as is the floor, and the rigging tunnel is full of rigging (although it is not yet connected).

Things are moving along...

posted 02-19-2006 08:43 PM ET (US)            

I did manage to get this photo once the boat was back in the barn. Note the lake effect snowfall that fell on the boat's gunwales during the operation:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/Buckda/Untitled149.jpg

posted 02-19-2006 09:01 PM ET (US)            

You know how you can become so infatuated with a single object that you see that object in other things? Yeah. You have that.

:)

They're dark blue....and that's fine by me - because blue is my favorite color!

Can't wait to get these this finished. Looks like I have about three more weekends of hard work and I'll be done.

Special thanks to Jerry for helping me this weekend - having an extra set of hands and someone to "bounce ideas off of" really makes the projects go by much faster...

posted 02-20-2006 01:44 AM ET (US)            

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/images/castorPollux/LHG_Castor_Pollux. jpg

posted 02-20-2006 08:27 AM ET (US)            

The engines look fantastic...like they were designed for the classic 18! Can't wait to see them in person.

posted 02-20-2006 12:21 PM ET (US)            

http://photobucket.com/albums/v397/fingkish/Buckdas%20Babies/

Dr. John

posted 02-20-2006 01:15 PM ET (US)         

What concerns me most, however, and I'm sure Dr. John would concur, is that "blue babies" tend to begin life with serious health problems.

posted 02-20-2006 01:47 PM ET (US)            

Anyway...I see that John's photobucket site has an additional photo that shows the engine after we first "snatched" it off the pallet and we're moving it out into the great white north to be mated to the boat.

Larry - good advice on the distribution bar. I may consider that as well. Although our stern weight is approximately the same (my batteries are in the console), the weight on the transom itself is higher on my rig.

I'm also working on sourcing a pair of outboard lower unit supports for the rig since the one I used with the Mercury is not long enough to accomodate the set-back brackets.

posted 02-20-2006 02:08 PM ET (US)            

The lifting ring is a loaner from the dealer who sold me the motor, so I cannot loan it to you (but I would if I owned it!).

I recently bought the Mercury lifting eye for my 150, and it cost me around $45. I also recently sold that to Tom Clark (I never used it!).

I really liked the design for this lifting eye. It allowed the motor to rotate freely to ease the "mating" to the transom. The Mercury eye, while certainly appearing to be a more robust bit of hardware, did not allow this rotation.

I would expect you could get this from a parts department at an Evinrude dealer for less than $50.

posted 02-20-2006 02:55 PM ET (US)            

Rene -

The brackets were a separate purchase from Rite Hite ( www.rmind.com ). I agree - I think they made it easier to mount each motor, although we did have some discussion in the frigid cold about it...the second motor went much more smoothly than the first!

posted 02-20-2006 04:36 PM ET (US)            

My 85 22' Outrage has the sticker relating to the installation of twins at 29 3/4" on center. The first thing I looked at when I got to the barn was Dave's sticker. There is nothing that relates to twin installation on his.

posted 02-20-2006 04:40 PM ET (US)            

I think it is possible that this sticker is on LHG's 25 but NOT on his 18? OR, for whatever reason, his has a different sticker than mine? (Perhaps an evolution in the instructions since mine was built in 1985 as a 1986 model, perhaps the new order of stickers have the change for later 1986 hulls?)...

posted 02-20-2006 07:08 PM ET (US)            

Dave--I just heard from Pastor Rob Purdy, who we both got to know since we sea-trialed 'Gambler' with him on different occasions down on Galvaston Bay. I tried to reply to his email, but my rotten laptop dumped his note and his new email address. I hope his picks this up and writes again...I sure want to get his views on 'Gambler''s transformations since she's been in your capable, plutocratic hands.

posted 02-20-2006 10:55 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for the backup guys and fellow 18' Outrage owners! I know, I AM insane for working on the boat in sub-zero temps! But I know I'm not seeing things!

Here are some more photos for your benefit. These better illustrate the conditions on Saturday...

posted 02-21-2006 10:33 AM ET (US)            

I used Boat-Life brand life-caulk (polysulfide) on the bracket installation, which was done the previous weekend (warmer temps) and covered the area with a tarp with a small disc furnace beneath it. I estimate the temperature in the stern area of the boat was in the 60-70 degree range for about 18 hours.

posted 02-21-2006 02:01 PM ET (US)            

Looks great!

Dave, one question: do your E-Tecs have lifting eyes bolted on to the block just aft of the flywheel?

I noticed that you used a lifting eye on top of the flywheel, but when I installed my '05 last spring, I just used the eye that was already bolted to the block.

Just curious,

posted 02-21-2006 02:02 PM ET (US)            

That will get some comments on the ramp. Looking foward to see how it performs

posted 02-21-2006 03:01 PM ET (US)            

WS - no lifting eye (that I noticed). I used the flywheel eye from the dealer per his recommendation. I'll look again on Saturday to see if there is a welded eye on the powerhead, but I don't think there is.

Rene' -

I will try to recreate how the thru-hulls are set up.

On the port, they look like this, |o |
On the starboard they look like this | o|

The "o" is the thru-hull and the "|" are the edges of the brackets. The fittings are clear..the brackets "Straddle" them.

posted 02-21-2006 03:10 PM ET (US)            

Anyway, the port through hole is on the extreme left side of the "space" under the port bracket. The starboard one is on the extreme starboard side of the "space" under the starboard bracket.

Interesting finding when measuring centerlines on this boat.

The center thru-hull is not exactly center....it was a little to port. The two outer drain tubes aren't evenly spaced either, so they're each a little different under the brackets, but the metal that is touching the boat is not contacting the thru-hull tubes. I guess the molds weren't "perfect" back in 1986.

I expect the performance of this rig will draw some interest here, and I expect to be posting that information as it is gathered. My expectation is that the rig will have outstanding out-of-the-hole performance and a top speed only slightly faster than the single-150 - or around 50 MPH.

posted 02-21-2006 06:59 PM ET (US)         

I am just too used to the idea of classical PRE-MIX 2-strokes:

http://photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2018/?action=view& current=Scan0002.jpg

posted 02-21-2006 07:17 PM ET (US)            

Sutton's Bay is a Big Bay.....you'll have to show me your Receipt of Purchase on this one......

Sorry couldn't help myself.....

Dave
The twins are sure getting a lot of attention, as they shouldl be.....can't wait to see them again

posted 02-27-2006 06:43 PM ET (US)            

I was only able to work on the motor briefly on Saturday as a work/event schedule in Indianapolis over the weekend really put a damper on my progress.

I did, however, manage to get a visit in at both West Marine and Wolf's in the morning, and then finish the "installation" of the console on my 3" varnished teak risers. I also fumbled about for awhile as I was connecting the throttle/shift cables on the dual binnacle control. After pinching fingers and attaching, checking, disassembling, reattaching, etc, I did manage to get that installed as well. That was the hardest part. I also got the helm side connected for the hydraulic steering.

I installed the Tachometers very quickly, after a quick return trip to West Marine for some 16 AWG wire, and then "plug in" the wiring harnesses to the tachs, trim/tilt and the ignition. I also wired up the warning horns.

The agenda for next weekend has become a bit more aggressive since I spent so much time on the control box, but I plan to install batteries and then connect all the electrical wiring in the console on Saturday. I can then finish screwing down the deck (right now it's secured by a few screws and then shimmed into place). I then need to re-check the torque on all the hardware on the engine mountings and can then begin connecting the steering systems and the control cables, etc.

In my free time, I need to finish installing/caulking the deck plates (I've been waiting for it to warm a little, since the plastic is likely to expand in the heat, and I'd rather install it at 50 degrees than at 15. I also need to re-install the under-gunwale rod-racks that I custom made over the winter out of star-board.

On my shopping list:
some terminals for the 16 AWG tachometer wiring (to connect to the electrical distribution panel). I need some more shrink tubing as well. Also, some 1/2 inch thick plywood (going to replace the console floor), some new bilge pump plumbing and wiring (adding a bilge pump to the transom splashwell) and some additional SS screws/fasteners and finish washers.

Thank God, I'm almost done shopping for the boat, though I will have to visit the canvas shop this spring (I "broke" the front window two weekends ago in the 12 degree weather when trying to "test fit" the console to make sure it didn't interfere with the shepherd's crook and the shelter). Kiss another $100 goodbye!

I also need to source some "outboard lower unit supports" for the trailer (yet another $100), and I'm waiting for some word on a possible line on a pair of 20" Merc Laser II propellers....for now, I'll install the 19" aluminum ones that I have handy for the shakedown cruise...that will hopefully take place in the Detroit River on Saturday, March 25...just in time for spring! Ahhhh, Spring!

posted 02-28-2006 12:09 AM ET (US)            

I envy you your industry and skill, Dave. What a great project.

Tony

posted 02-28-2006 10:49 PM ET (US)            

The leaning post is also going to be on 3/4 inch varnished teak pads to match the varnished teak risers on the console.

So yeah...I think the boat is going to have a really different feel this year. I'm looking forward to it.

posted 03-06-2006 02:47 PM ET (US)            

New floor for console is cut and ready to be installed.

Installed cables/wiring for STB engine. Will have to re-install next weekend since shift cable is binding (18' is probably not long enough in retrospect).

Figured out I STILL had not connected controls correctly and re-worked control connections.

Installed first deck plate for tank vent in the bow. Looks great. I had to source new, smaller screws for this project which is responsible for the delay.

My new fuel tank guage arrived today so I can work on that next weekend.

I installed the decking screws along the front of the fuel tank cover after obsessing with the spacing to make it "look" right.

Installed a guage "blank" in the console to cover up the hole from the Water Pressure guage from the Merc. Guages no consist of twin Systemcheck Tachs and my NavMan fuel flow meter...which may be sold later this spring depending on how well it works "installed incorrectly" on the front side of the fuel filter in an attempt to measure the flow for both motors.

Installed hydraulic steering resevoir on the starboard motor and am most of the way finished with the tie-bar installation. I may have to make a few more tweaks to that next weekend. Right now, the motors are 'toe out' about 1 inch at the "tightest" setting.

I'm going to need a hand next week. Volunteers are welcome. I'm going to be connecting cables to the port engine, and re-connecting the starboard and fishing a few wires through the rigging tunnel.

As a side project, I'm also putting together a new SS flag staff so JimH won't cringe that the colors are flying "half staff" from an antenna. I bought a length of SS railing, a cap for it and then a swivel base. It's coming together well and should accomodate the American Flag or Yacht Ensign and a courtesy flag.

The "diver down" flag will now occupy the antenna position when appropriate....the Whaler Burgee will always appear on the bowstaff.

Progress...

posted 03-06-2006 03:46 PM ET (US)            

Dave, you can add a second transducer for the Navman 3100 for about $65 bucks. It comes with a second transducer and cable, as well as a "T" fitting to hook the second ducer to the instrument. You could certainly run both engines through a single transducer, but it really is nice to be able to get redings on each engine individually.

posted 03-06-2006 03:52 PM ET (US)            

If this does not work very well, I may sell the unit and upgrade as you suggest.

posted 03-06-2006 04:32 PM ET (US)            

The SystemCheck is the earlier generation that is a transition between what you have on your 200's and SmartCraft/ICommand.

It operates with a audible horn warning and a series of LED Lights in the display that indicate Low Oil/No Oil/Overheat/etc.

posted 03-13-2006 12:56 PM ET (US)            

This is beginning to look like a government contract rather than a personal project!

LOL.

Despite all that, I did make some progress. I wasn't feeling well but managed to trek over to try to make headway.

Saturday was beautiful...sunny and about 70 degrees (it's going to snow on Thursday!)

Armed with revised instructions from Teleflex (provided by the dealer) that told me exactly how short to cut the tie-bar, I foolishly removed the bar, measured, checked that I measured per instructions, and FAILED to double check if that measurement made sense on the engines...and then cut the bar.

It is too short (I think).

More on that later...I'm working the the dealer to figure that one out. Another tie-bar may be necessary (about $300)....

[update]literally while I was typing this I got an e-mail from the dealer and it turns out that there is a reason I chose PR as a career and not engineering or math....apparently I can't read algebraic equations!...anyway. Experience is a good teacher, thought sometimes it can be a pricey education...

I am also waiting on another set of control cables from the dealer, and an extension for the port engine's wiring harness...so not much progress was made on the rigging at the motor.

I did get the new fuel guage in the mail last week, as well as the transom-savers from Cabela's. I installed the new guage and dial and then finished installing deck plates. This process took time since I drilled, caulked and then screwed each hole in place, using Boat Life's "Life-Caulk".

I then drilled, countersunk, caulked and installed the deck screws..so the deck is now firmly in place, only needing to be caulked.

Then I turned my attention back on the motors, and installed the transom savers to the trailer.

Then I installed the props. Well, tried to. Long story there...

I'm thinking that in general, it might have been better had I just not done any work on the boat this weekend!

I also finished the work on the new flagstaff. It needs to be mounted to the arch, but for the most part, it's done. 2-feet 8-inches of SS railing mounted to a racheting swivel base...should make a nice touch atop the arch.

Next weekend I'm travelling, so I've got to get things wrapped up the weekend of the 25th and the 1st of April to try to get it over to the dealer for shakedown by either the 8th or tax day, the 15th.

Last year, my first outing was on the 17th. I'm hoping to make it out on the 15th this year.

posted 03-13-2006 02:02 PM ET (US)            

Call me crazy, but I haven't installed the leaning post yet..and I'm thinking about holding off on installing it.

The boat seems HUGE without that post there to take up so much space....

I've been considering getting an RPS..since the deck is virgin, this would be the time to make any changes to the seating config...so I'm mulling that one over. Perhaps after using the boat a few times without the leaning post, I'll either decide to go without until I can find a RPS or install it anyway...

posted 03-13-2006 06:22 PM ET (US)            

I removed a leaning post from my Outrage and replaced it with an RPS on risers. The RPS is a decent leaning post, and the extra seating while trolling and cruising made it a no brainer. It's great having someplace comfortable to sit down while having a sandwich or cup of coffee. I can fit a 72qt. Igloo underneath, easily removed and replaced with a 28 gallon fuel cell if needed for really long trips. Overall, I think it gives you a lot of versatility for about the same footprint as a leaning post.

posted 03-13-2006 06:38 PM ET (US)            

I agree. I could probably very easily and aesthetically cover any holes using Teak plugs and a bit of epoxy...especially since I'm not really ready (financially) to buy an RPS and restore it. I've got to take care of the financial load added in this re-power by June...perhaps that will be a fall/winter 2006 - 2007 project. That list is already growing.

I forgot to mention that I also started to install my new rod holders (made from black star-board). Looks like I'll have to make a minor modification to them to make them fit with the angle iron/brackets under the gunwale. That project killed another hour or so...

posted 03-14-2006 12:13 AM ET (US)            

I can't remember if your leaning post is an original OEM item. If it is, I would be pretty interested in it.

posted 03-14-2006 10:39 AM ET (US)            

My opinion..but the post is probably the same quality as the OE Birdsall post. It has the fold down step/footrest in the front and is very well made....however, it does not have rodholders along the back like the Birdsall one does.

That's a 94QT Igloo underneath and there is a "keeper" bar along the bottom in the back that holds it in place.

I'm not sure I want to get rid of it yet. I had considered re-upholstering it this winter as part of the mods that I'm making (to bring the white color closer to the tan gelcoat..since all the wood on the boat will probably further "warm" the look up a bit and that white will probably really stand out now).

The post was manufactured by Hi-Tech Marine in Kemah, TX.

posted 03-14-2006 01:00 PM ET (US)            

;-)!!!!!!!!!

posted 03-14-2006 02:35 PM ET (US)            

I have very special plans for reintroducing those cooler cleats. Stay tuned for that design element to come late this summer or over the winter of 2006-2007...just in time for the BC trip I'm planning.

For now, they're sitting their second season on the 'bench'. Just not enough room behind the leaning post with them installed.

posted 03-14-2006 08:58 PM ET (US)            

Wow! You've been BUSY! Can't wait to see Gambler. The twins should be learning to walk pretty soon. They walk, they run then pretty soon you just can't keep them under control. I've got dibs on a ride.

posted 03-14-2006 09:04 PM ET (US)            

I do like the looks of your leaning post. Let me know if sometime in the future you want to change to the reversible pilot seat - I may be interested in your leaning post.

By the way, your boat is going to be beyond cool with the new twins!

posted 03-20-2006 07:04 PM ET (US)            

I also re-soldered a few electrical connections that had come uncrimped in the de-rigging/re-rigging process.

Three hours later, I finished my trip back home....!

I really do think that by the end of Sunday night next weekend, the boat will be within a days work of visiting the dealer for the initial start-up and shakedown cruise.

...so I'm putting tax day, April 15th on the calendar for the shakedown, since I can't work on it the weekend of April 1st as I'll be in S. California getting a little sunshine on my lilly-white, pasty, northerner's winter hide. If I can convince my dealer to go for a boat ride on Sunday, April 9, I might get it out there sooner!

Regards, and thanks for the encouragement...

posted 03-28-2006 07:09 PM ET (US)            

The motors are connected via the tie-bars with about 1/2 inch of toe-out alignment. I hope there's room to adjust further, but it's an easy cut to make at the last minute if it needs to be cut further for performance.

I've filled the hydraulic steering system, but since purging it is a two-man job, I've decided to wait to complete that either this weekend or at the shakedown.

All of the rigging is routed through the mesh rigging sleeves and I've routed the fuel lines (a bigger job than I anticipated, since space is at a premium in the aft starboard corner where the rigging exits the tunnel and routes under the gunwale then out to the motors).

What's left for Saturday?
- Re-torque all engine mounting bolts and check torque specs on the jackplates.
- connect throttle and shift cables and finish the rig at each motor
- connect the batteries and all electrical connections in the console
- calk the edges of the deck
- install VHF
- re-rig VHF antenna cable and splice connection through rigging tunnel (somehow, I clamped this cable down *underneath the deck* and had to cut it to free it. I'm going to use two PL-259 connectors amd a barrel connector to splice the cable behind the starboard kick panel. This will also serve as an emergency attachment point for my handheld VHF should I need greater range offered by the 16' tall antenna (on the arch) versus the eenie meenie one on the handheld itself...should the main radio fail).
- finish installing the rod racks under the gunwales (not sure how..but I started this project, got one installed and somehow got started on something else last weekend and never finished the job!
- install cooler cleats for cooler/seat in front of the console.

I'm going to leave the leaning post OUT of the boat for the short-term.

So I'm going to have a busy Saturday. Anyone who wants to come over and join me is welcome...temps are supposed to be pleasant on Saturday and you only lose one hour of sleep with the time change on Saturday night!

At the end of the day on Saturday, I'll either be making arrangements for the shakedown on the 15th, or I'll be making arrangements for the 22nd.

Will keep you all informed.

Thanks for staying tuned.

posted 03-28-2006 07:23 PM ET (US)            

Sounds like things are progressing nicely.

posted 03-28-2006 08:23 PM ET (US)            

The front of the torpedo gearcase is "closer" than the end of the prop shaft...