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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Float-On Brand Trailers
|Author||Topic: Float-On Brand Trailers|
posted 01-13-2007 12:52 AM ET (US)
[I] am in search of a used trailer and found a used Float-On brand. [Give comments about] any experience with FLOAT-ON brand trailers. [I]t does not have a winch just a clip. [S]ounds great, but what are the pro's and con's?
posted 01-13-2007 05:07 AM ET (US)
Well, one con in my view would be if your trying to launch or retrieve at a ramp that is shallow, i.e. a slight slope. You'd have to run the whole rig (car/truck) out into deeper water.
Regards - Don
posted 01-13-2007 06:27 AM ET (US)
My 22 CPD Divemaster came with a float-on trailer. Awesome salt water trailer...top of the line. This trailer was easily worth more than I paid for the boat (GSA auction).
Marine grade wide flange alum is expensive. It also had SS brakes, alloy rims & torsion axles. A magnet was useless on this trailer.
My garage burned along with the boat. Half the trailer melted. I still have all of parts forward of the front axles incl winch, surge break, tow ring, spare mount.
posted 01-13-2007 10:10 AM ET (US)
Please make clear if you are speaking about the FLOAT-ON brand of trailers, or the float-on style of trailers. I do not believe that commercial Boston Whaler boats are delivered with a FLOAT-ON brand trailer. The trailers used on commercial Boston Whaler boats cost about $8,000 to $9,000. I do not recall the name of the manufacturer.
posted 01-13-2007 10:33 AM ET (US)
I used a float on type trailer for 10 years and it made launching and retrieving the boat a snap. I don`t recall having trouble with shallow ramps. If a ramp is deep enough to float a boat off with any trailer (how else would you do it), it is deep enough to retrieve with a float on. There is no winch needed, you either float the boat on or drive it on. There are no rollers either, the boat is supported entirely by the bunks. At least that's the way my trailer was set up. I you use two people, one to back the trailer into the water, and one to drive the boat on to the trailer, retrieving the boat can be done in a minute or so, with no hassle at all. I know you`ll here some flack that power loading is illegal in some places, but I or anyone else that I`ve ever seen do it never had any trouble.
Launching can be done solo, just tie a 10 ft. line to your bow eye and one to the trailer, and back `er her in till she floats off. As far as retrieving solo just tie the boat to the ramp dock, back the trailer in, and then climb in the boat, and drive it right on. the guide bars make it easy. You`ll then need to climb off the bow onto the trailer. Some people I`ve seem do attach winch's to the trailer to whinch it up the last foot or so, in case they don`t drive it on far enough.
posted 01-13-2007 10:43 AM ET (US)
The price of a Float On brand trailer for a 22 foot Guardian built to Mil Specs is from $7000 to $8000 currently. I just purchased a 22 foot Guardian and trailer that was Float On brand, at auction, and did some research to buy some parts for it. The Company commented that the model code on my trailer was their military spec trailer.
When I went to pick up my boat at the Navy Bone Yard here in San Diego there were 5 additional Whalers there and 4 of the 5 were on Float On brand trailers. So at least some of the commercial trailers were supplied by this company at one time.
But getting back to mtklocal question I believe you should install a winch. It is a very simple and inexpensive upgrade. They can be very usefull.
posted 01-13-2007 01:16 PM ET (US)
yeah, i guess it isnt clear.
The trailer that melted and the salvaged parts were/are all
Thx for the price quote Tonym, I knew it was up there, figured $4k. Would you mind sending me references or posting them here? No big deal tho, I will contact float on directly eventually.
I plan to claim the appropriate loss from IRS.
posted 01-13-2007 01:32 PM ET (US)
I believe that the FLOAT ON trailer company invented the float on trailer, and were the premier brand of float on trailer. You could always distinguish their brand because they used a wrap around 1" aluminum tube in the front of the trailer where the winch post would normally mount. They would also mount a special bow eye on your boat. You would then just drive your boat into this aluminum tube and your bow eye would just click in and automatically attach it self to the tube and hold your boat. I don`t know if the still use this feature.
posted 01-13-2007 06:17 PM ET (US)
I have enclosed the current phone and address of the Float-On Corp. I have also enclosed a picture of my plate off the trailer. The model # reads 925BBSP. I spoke to a young lady on the phone and asked her for information on the trailer and she said the model was #925, the BB meant that there were disc brakes on both axels, and the SP was because it was made for the military. I mentioned I was thinking of replacing it (not really) with a new identical model and asked for a quote. A few minutes later she came back on the phone and said about $ 7000.00 fob Florida. That’s all I know.
You may want to be careful though with the IRS. I am not sure you can claim replacement cost for a casualty loss deduction. I suspect it would be actual cost but you need to check with a good CPA with a tax background. Good luck. Tonym
Float On Corporation
Phone: (772) 569-4440
posted 01-13-2007 06:28 PM ET (US)
posted 01-14-2007 10:55 AM ET (US)
There is some prior discussion which indicates that the LOAD-RITE trailer had often been used with Boston Whaler boats supplied by the Commercial and Government Products (CGP) division.
posted 01-14-2007 11:42 AM ET (US)
After I read the trailer info plate more thoroughly I noticed that it was manufactured in April of 1996. My Guardian is a 1990 so obviously for whatever reason the Navy bought (or swapped) some trailers after the boats were purchased. Tonym
posted 01-15-2007 07:02 PM ET (US)
My only beef with some of the aluminum trailers is that they actually do float. Float away to be more specific. I guess it`s the air in the tires that causes this. They are so light that when you back them up to the point where you need to retrieve the boat, they tend to float away to one side. I had one float up against a dock and had another float out to the side. I had to load the boat onto the trailer in three stages, making certain the weight of the boat kept the trailer in place. This made it difficult, especially when launching alone.
posted 01-15-2007 07:08 PM ET (US)
Steve, I bet your trailers had those small wide balloon tires. I`ve never seen normal trailer tires float a float on trailer. Rich
posted 01-15-2007 07:59 PM ET (US)
I year ago or so I had an incident with a 1982 Float-On brand trailer. I was headed north on I-95 heading back to Pa. from a boat purchase in Fl. I was in N.C. when one of the axels failed, probably due to 25 years of fatigue.
What impressed me was that when I called them, they asked me for the VIN # of the trailer, went to a file and looked it up, checked stock and told me that the exact axel (which they manufacture) was in stock and would be shipped that day with my credit card payment. Excellent service.
posted 01-15-2007 09:16 PM ET (US)
Binkie, my dual axle Fast-Load trailer for my 22' Outrage floats if I submerge it to far. I discovered this tendency when I pulled the boat out of the water for the first time. I backed the trailer down, went to get the boat. By the time I got the boat to the trailer, the trailer was sideways in the ramp. Tires are standard, not the wide beach tires. I'm used to it now and know how far in to dunk the trailer.
posted 01-15-2007 09:17 PM ET (US)
Ok, now you have my attention. Can 5 - 15 inch tires really float a 1,000 pound Trailer? I haven’t launched with this trailer yet. The boats not ready but you all have me wondering! Tonym
posted 01-15-2007 09:48 PM ET (US)
Mine sure does. But it's not as bad as it sounds. Once I learned the limits there was no problem. The trailer goes in far enough to get the boat on the trailer before it starts to float. At first I used a piece of tape on the frame as a guide for when to stop backing down but it fell off long ago. I've even thught of using lead to weight it down but it's just not that big a deal.
posted 01-16-2007 02:59 AM ET (US)
nahh, I dont do my own Taxes. I just drop the reciepts in a box and let my CPA do the rest.
but seriously, again, a wonderful trailer, I miss mine & envy you...what a nice problem to have.
posted 01-16-2007 10:04 AM ET (US)
What did your fast load trailer weigh empty? And what size tires did you have on them?
posted 01-16-2007 10:32 AM ET (US)
My Ventura 210 package was delivered with a Load Rite Bunk Trailer Model # AB24T5200TB2. Here are the specs
For boat length 22' - 24'
Boat weight 5,200
#'s of axles 2
Axle/Disc Brake combinations 1 or 2 4
Tire Size ST205/75D14C
Width between the fenders 82.5"
Overall Width 101.5"
Overall Lenght 26'6"
Trailer weight 1,150
This trailer will not float. I back it into the water with the rear tire submerged & the front tires 75% submerged then drive the boat right onto the trailer. I've installed an aluminum trailer guide bar (home made) on the winch post so I can see where the bow of the boat is in relation to the bow stopper & so I can keep the boat centered on the stopper. Here is a picture of the guide.
I've had this trailer 4 years & submerge it in saltwater all the time and it's never missed a beat. I put about 5000 miles a year on it towing the boat to East Coast fishing locations & have just replaced the tires. It has single axle surge disc brakes that provide more than adequate stopping power. My boat comes in right around 5100 lbs fully loaded so the total weight of the package is right around 6250 lbs.
posted 01-16-2007 10:51 AM ET (US)
Thanks! My trailer weighs in at 1000 lbs so I should be allright, I think. Tonym
posted 01-16-2007 03:46 PM ET (US)
Tony if I remember correctly my trailer weighs in at a little over 800 lbs. It's an aluminum. The tires I believe are 15x78, dont know how tall they are. As I said it is only a problem if I back it in to far.
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