REPAIRS/MODS: OUTRAGE 18: Improving Self Bailing

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  REPAIRS/MODS: OUTRAGE 18: Improving Self Bailing

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Author Topic:   REPAIRS/MODS: OUTRAGE 18: Improving Self Bailing

littleblue posted 07-25-2008 03:24 PM ET (US)
Halfway into my fourth season with my Classic 18/19 I am very happy with the boat. I’ve spend many happy hours on her, killed many fish, entertained friends, and [have been] scared on a few occasions. There are a few things that I am unhappy with however, and I was curious to know if others felt the same and if anyone else has done or thought of doing similar modifications.
The main problem I have with the boat is the way in which it self bails. When water gets on the decks (usually from me washing the deck down after it gets dirty with fish slime and guts) I have to pump the water out with a bilge pump. I prefer to keep the plug in the sump in, to keep saltwater out of the deeper areas of the rigging tunnel.
This past weekend my bilge pump was not functioning for a while, the fuse had corroded and the switch was not working. We took more water into the boat than usual because at one time we had all three guys plus a bait tank full of water in the stern area of the boat, this, in combination with a large wake, sent a small amount of water over the splash well and onto the decks. I got the bilge working again, but when I was putting the boat away I popped the stern deck plate and there was water pooled up on top of the fuel tank.
I dried it using a towel ringing it out again and again. The ground wire [fuel system bonding wire] attachment point to the tank has corroded away. Needless to say, this has me concerned about the integrity of the fuel tank, especially since I would like to re-power sometime in the not so distant future, I now feel like the fuel tank should be replaced at the same time.
So has anyone done anything to correct [the problem of water getting into the central fuel tank cavity]? There is a 22’ Classic Outrage parked next to me; I spoke with the owner. He has the sump cover sealed and caulked over to make it water tight. The fuel, steering and other lines that come out of the sump are covered with a water tight hose that extends from the base of the sump cover and then up a few feet towards the engine. He has also added two drain holes in the transom of the boat which make the boat a true self-bailing hull. The holes on the transom have the one way flaps to keep water from coming in.
Can [all of these modifications be done] with the Outrage 18? Could the sump cover be sealed water tight and two drain holes added? In the case of the 18, the drain holes would obviously just drain to the rear splashwell. Is this idea feasible?
I think the 22’ has a different configuration in which the sump empties into the rear bilge in the event that water should ever accidentally breach the sealed sump cover. Maybe some type of gasketed hatch could be made for the 18’s sump cover so that it is fairly water tight, yet you could open it easily. This way you could keep a bilge pump in the sump and have access to the plug. It sure would be nice to wash the desk off and have the water just drain out of the back of the boat.
Things I think of when my head is in Whalersville.

jimh posted 07-25-2008 03:42 PM ET (US)
Please use the REPAIRS/MODS discussion for topics involving modification of classic Boston Whaler boats.
littleblue posted 07-25-2008 04:46 PM ET (US)
Sorry Jim, it was more of a general inquiry [about modifications to classic Boston Whaler boats] rather than a how to [perform modifications to classic Boston Whaler boats].
andygere posted 07-25-2008 06:58 PM ET (US)
I think leaving the stern sump plug out is a better solution, and that's what I do with my '89 Outrage 22 Cuddy (two plugs, actually). If it's inevitable that water will get on the deck, it's getting down to the tank cavity as well. I'd rather keep the plugs out and let it drain than trap the water inside. I don't think the "seal the deck" plan is very practical, and relying on a bilge pump to dry out the cockpit is a drag, and not that reliable (as your rusty fuse holder example shows). I am resigned to the fact that the fuel tank will eventually need replacement, and that's just the way it will be. I do think it's a good idea to open the inspection plates when the boat is not in use, so that the tank can cavity can breath and hopefully dry. Keeping the boat covered is the other way to preserve the tank as well as the wood laminate under the deck. I suspect that rainwater is the culprit more often than not when the tanks and floors go bad on these boats.
tomol posted 07-25-2008 07:13 PM ET (US)
Just wait until an anchovy makes it's way through that limber hole and deposits itself on top of the tank. It'll start to ripen about Tuesday.:-)
Seriously, with three grown men and a full bait tank, you'll probably have to resign yourself to getting water on the tank. Just make sure to rinse it well through the hatches if you're in salt water. Also, if you can do it without creating an nuisance, take extra time to drain it at the ramp. Turn the boat so the sump is the lowest point. I'm always amazed how long it takes to drain.
littleblue posted 07-25-2008 09:18 PM ET (US)
If the sump is sealed properly and the new drain tubes worked properly, emptying any water accumulating onto the decks into the splashwell, there really should be no water getting into the sump in the first place right?
On the topic of the anchovy....I think something like that happened last year. Some piece of fish gut had to have made its was up the sump somewhere because a week after there was the most horrible stench coming out of somewhere on the boat, most noticeably after getting to speed. I still catch a whiff of it on occasion and smelled it pretty good when I opened up the deck plate. Not fun.
jimh posted 07-25-2008 10:12 PM ET (US)
You can't make the decks self bailing unless they are above the water line. In a 18-foot Boston Whaler with three guys standing in the stern, and other gear loading the boat, the deck is probably right at or even below the water line.
If the cockpit sump drain is plugged and there is no sump pump (or the pump is not working), then, yes, water is going to build up there. Eventually the water will get high enough to flow into the center cavity and get the fuel tank wet.
Jerry Townsend posted 07-26-2008 02:55 PM ET (US)
Hey guys - just letting my brain take a few extra turns here - but consider installing a scupper like device on the bottom of the sump drain. Stationary, there would be enough pressure differential to basically hold the scupper closed - and while underway, the scupper valve would open. The scupper would have to be recessed a bit. The only thing the scupper does is to close the opening - well, when the pressure at the outside of the scupper flapper is greater than that on the inside. --- Jerry/Idaho
Fishmore posted 07-26-2008 03:54 PM ET (US)
Just globbing on to Jerry's idea if you used 5200 and a thin stainless plate with a hole in the center on the bottom of the hull then placed a floating ball (maybe a cork or ping pong ball type thing in to the drain tube and another stailess plate with a hole in the center on the top of the tube Jerry's idea would seem to work pretty good. The hole would have to be just a smidge smaller than the ball.
Fishmore posted 07-26-2008 03:59 PM ET (US)
Sorry just had a second thought instead of a plate how about soldering a brass rod or a brass screw on the bottom then it would always drain and there would be no turbulence caused by the plate.
Jerry Townsend posted 07-26-2008 06:29 PM ET (US)
One thing to bear in mind - the path has got to be as unobstructed as possible. The scuppers on my '96 17 Outrage will get plugged with a small branch, a leaf - or just about anything - and then, they don't seal. Having to frequently unplug such a drain in the sump would be a pain-in-the-butt. --- Jerry/Idaho

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Author	Topic: REPAIRS/MODS: OUTRAGE 18: Improving Self Bailing
littleblue	posted 07-25-2008 03:24 PM ET (US) Halfway into my fourth season with my Classic 18/19 I am very happy with the boat. I’ve spend many happy hours on her, killed many fish, entertained friends, and [have been] scared on a few occasions. There are a few things that I am unhappy with however, and I was curious to know if others felt the same and if anyone else has done or thought of doing similar modifications. The main problem I have with the boat is the way in which it self bails. When water gets on the decks (usually from me washing the deck down after it gets dirty with fish slime and guts) I have to pump the water out with a bilge pump. I prefer to keep the plug in the sump in, to keep saltwater out of the deeper areas of the rigging tunnel. This past weekend my bilge pump was not functioning for a while, the fuse had corroded and the switch was not working. We took more water into the boat than usual because at one time we had all three guys plus a bait tank full of water in the stern area of the boat, this, in combination with a large wake, sent a small amount of water over the splash well and onto the decks. I got the bilge working again, but when I was putting the boat away I popped the stern deck plate and there was water pooled up on top of the fuel tank. I dried it using a towel ringing it out again and again. The ground wire [fuel system bonding wire] attachment point to the tank has corroded away. Needless to say, this has me concerned about the integrity of the fuel tank, especially since I would like to re-power sometime in the not so distant future, I now feel like the fuel tank should be replaced at the same time. So has anyone done anything to correct [the problem of water getting into the central fuel tank cavity]? There is a 22’ Classic Outrage parked next to me; I spoke with the owner. He has the sump cover sealed and caulked over to make it water tight. The fuel, steering and other lines that come out of the sump are covered with a water tight hose that extends from the base of the sump cover and then up a few feet towards the engine. He has also added two drain holes in the transom of the boat which make the boat a true self-bailing hull. The holes on the transom have the one way flaps to keep water from coming in. Can [all of these modifications be done] with the Outrage 18? Could the sump cover be sealed water tight and two drain holes added? In the case of the 18, the drain holes would obviously just drain to the rear splashwell. Is this idea feasible? I think the 22’ has a different configuration in which the sump empties into the rear bilge in the event that water should ever accidentally breach the sealed sump cover. Maybe some type of gasketed hatch could be made for the 18’s sump cover so that it is fairly water tight, yet you could open it easily. This way you could keep a bilge pump in the sump and have access to the plug. It sure would be nice to wash the desk off and have the water just drain out of the back of the boat. Things I think of when my head is in Whalersville.
jimh	posted 07-25-2008 03:42 PM ET (US) Please use the REPAIRS/MODS discussion for topics involving modification of classic Boston Whaler boats.
littleblue	posted 07-25-2008 04:46 PM ET (US) Sorry Jim, it was more of a general inquiry [about modifications to classic Boston Whaler boats] rather than a how to [perform modifications to classic Boston Whaler boats].
andygere	posted 07-25-2008 06:58 PM ET (US) I think leaving the stern sump plug out is a better solution, and that's what I do with my '89 Outrage 22 Cuddy (two plugs, actually). If it's inevitable that water will get on the deck, it's getting down to the tank cavity as well. I'd rather keep the plugs out and let it drain than trap the water inside. I don't think the "seal the deck" plan is very practical, and relying on a bilge pump to dry out the cockpit is a drag, and not that reliable (as your rusty fuse holder example shows). I am resigned to the fact that the fuel tank will eventually need replacement, and that's just the way it will be. I do think it's a good idea to open the inspection plates when the boat is not in use, so that the tank can cavity can breath and hopefully dry. Keeping the boat covered is the other way to preserve the tank as well as the wood laminate under the deck. I suspect that rainwater is the culprit more often than not when the tanks and floors go bad on these boats.
tomol	posted 07-25-2008 07:13 PM ET (US) Just wait until an anchovy makes it's way through that limber hole and deposits itself on top of the tank. It'll start to ripen about Tuesday.:-) Seriously, with three grown men and a full bait tank, you'll probably have to resign yourself to getting water on the tank. Just make sure to rinse it well through the hatches if you're in salt water. Also, if you can do it without creating an nuisance, take extra time to drain it at the ramp. Turn the boat so the sump is the lowest point. I'm always amazed how long it takes to drain.
littleblue	posted 07-25-2008 09:18 PM ET (US) If the sump is sealed properly and the new drain tubes worked properly, emptying any water accumulating onto the decks into the splashwell, there really should be no water getting into the sump in the first place right? On the topic of the anchovy....I think something like that happened last year. Some piece of fish gut had to have made its was up the sump somewhere because a week after there was the most horrible stench coming out of somewhere on the boat, most noticeably after getting to speed. I still catch a whiff of it on occasion and smelled it pretty good when I opened up the deck plate. Not fun.
jimh	posted 07-25-2008 10:12 PM ET (US) You can't make the decks self bailing unless they are above the water line. In a 18-foot Boston Whaler with three guys standing in the stern, and other gear loading the boat, the deck is probably right at or even below the water line. If the cockpit sump drain is plugged and there is no sump pump (or the pump is not working), then, yes, water is going to build up there. Eventually the water will get high enough to flow into the center cavity and get the fuel tank wet.
Jerry Townsend	posted 07-26-2008 02:55 PM ET (US) Hey guys - just letting my brain take a few extra turns here - but consider installing a scupper like device on the bottom of the sump drain. Stationary, there would be enough pressure differential to basically hold the scupper closed - and while underway, the scupper valve would open. The scupper would have to be recessed a bit. The only thing the scupper does is to close the opening - well, when the pressure at the outside of the scupper flapper is greater than that on the inside. --- Jerry/Idaho
Fishmore	posted 07-26-2008 03:54 PM ET (US) Just globbing on to Jerry's idea if you used 5200 and a thin stainless plate with a hole in the center on the bottom of the hull then placed a floating ball (maybe a cork or ping pong ball type thing in to the drain tube and another stailess plate with a hole in the center on the top of the tube Jerry's idea would seem to work pretty good. The hole would have to be just a smidge smaller than the ball.
Fishmore	posted 07-26-2008 03:59 PM ET (US) Sorry just had a second thought instead of a plate how about soldering a brass rod or a brass screw on the bottom then it would always drain and there would be no turbulence caused by the plate.
Jerry Townsend	posted 07-26-2008 06:29 PM ET (US) One thing to bear in mind - the path has got to be as unobstructed as possible. The scuppers on my '96 17 Outrage will get plugged with a small branch, a leaf - or just about anything - and then, they don't seal. Having to frequently unplug such a drain in the sump would be a pain-in-the-butt. --- Jerry/Idaho