Concern About Water Ingress To Hull via Fasteners

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Author Topic:   Concern About Water Ingress To Hull via Fasteners

Chris posted 06-14-2009 05:41 PM ET (US)
I have had four [Boston Whaler boats]: two 13-footers, a 15-footer, and now a 17-footer. All have had batteries and boxes mounted to the rear deck by stainless sheet metal screws. Should there be concern regarding water getting into the hull through these small fastener holes covered by a screw head? The water always runs to the back. Just a thought.
jimh posted 06-14-2009 05:52 PM ET (US)
Yes.
R T M posted 06-14-2009 05:55 PM ET (US)
Good question. You could always put a little dab of 5200 fast set into the hole, before you set the screw. That should fill any spaces between the screw and the glass. It would be nice if someone devised a way to keep a tube usable for little jobs like this between bigger jobs, without the stuff hardening up in the tube.
rich/Binkie
Whalerdog posted 06-14-2009 09:22 PM ET (US)
they should sell small tubes like sample tooth paste.
PeteB88 posted 06-14-2009 10:11 PM ET (US)
What about epoxy, Rich? and the others.
Dan posted 06-14-2009 10:27 PM ET (US)
Your tubes will last longer if stored in a small ziploc plastic bag. Also put tape around the cap.
If the static trim is good, then I wouldn't worry.
If there is a transducer, remove the screws and see if any water leaks out. This could give an indication of water saturation.
pcrussell50 posted 06-15-2009 12:48 AM ET (US)
Is there concern about water intrusion into the foam from where the _factory_ fasteners attach the console and such?
Obviously, there is concern where careless owners start drilling their own holes, but I would hope the factory would either take better care, or have accounted for this by having something under the deck besides foam, where they know they will be drilling.
I'm talking about a 13 foot classic.
-Peter
20dauntless posted 06-15-2009 01:07 AM ET (US)
The best way to avoid any type of water intrusion is to drill a larger hole than necessary, fill the hole with epoxy, then put the screw into the epoxy. This will eliminate any concern of water intrusion into the foam core.
Plotman posted 06-15-2009 08:19 AM ET (US)
5200 is an adhesive. There are plenty of sealants I would use before 5200.
Pull out the screws, put some sealant on the threads and in the hole, bed the fixture in sealant, replace the screw, clean up the excess, and you should be good to go.
R T M posted 06-15-2009 11:05 AM ET (US)
Plotman, your wrong about that, 5200 is a sealant and an adhesive. Fill a small screw hole with 5200, preferably 5200 fast set, as it won`t seep into the hole and possibly leave an open space,let it cure, and then try to remove it. You will find it impossible to do. No, 5200 will not make a hole disappear, for that you need to use something like MarineTex or something similar, and then gelcoat or paint over it. If you are screwing down a wooden cleat to hold a console or battery box, etc., Drill your holes through the wood and the floor, take the wood up, put a dab of 5200 over the holes, screw the holes through the wood so the points show through fit the wood on the deck so that the points of the screws fit in the holes, and then screw it down. Who knows if the factory does this, as it takes more production time. If you put a line of 5200 under the whole piece of wood, you will have a lot to deal with if you ever want to remove the wood. If you use only a sealant it will let water in behind it, and can be peeled of with a plastic knife. A good substitute for 5200 is white exterior window chalk, but make sure it is adhesive caulk.
rich/Binkie
PeteB88 posted 06-15-2009 11:10 AM ET (US)
Okay, what do you do if the hole is wet? Minimal water intrusion but enough so epoxy would not cure? This assumes hole is drilled through to wood areas installed during manufacturing process.
R T M posted 06-15-2009 11:16 AM ET (US)
I neglected to state that the method for screwing wood cleats into the floor in my above post, is for where there is wood backing. If there is no wood backing, drill a larger hole, ream out the foam around the hole with the bent end of an allen wrench chucked into a drill, fill the void with epoxy, re drill, put a dab of 5200 over the hole, and fasten the cleat like in my above post.
rich/Binkie
R T M posted 06-15-2009 11:24 AM ET (US)
Pete, Just drill the hole larger and fill the hole with Gorilla glue, which is some form of one part epoxy, that kicks off with moisture. Then put a piece of tape over the hole.It expands big time, so when it starts to expand, hold your finger or a weight, (finger works best) over the hole so the expanding glue fills any voids in the hull area. When it sets just dill a new hole, and screw into the Gorilla glue. It has worked for me and others, and there was a long thread about using Gorilla glue over at the other forum a while back.
rich/Binkie

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Author	Topic: Concern About Water Ingress To Hull via Fasteners
Chris	posted 06-14-2009 05:41 PM ET (US) I have had four [Boston Whaler boats]: two 13-footers, a 15-footer, and now a 17-footer. All have had batteries and boxes mounted to the rear deck by stainless sheet metal screws. Should there be concern regarding water getting into the hull through these small fastener holes covered by a screw head? The water always runs to the back. Just a thought.
jimh	posted 06-14-2009 05:52 PM ET (US) Yes.
R T M	posted 06-14-2009 05:55 PM ET (US) Good question. You could always put a little dab of 5200 fast set into the hole, before you set the screw. That should fill any spaces between the screw and the glass. It would be nice if someone devised a way to keep a tube usable for little jobs like this between bigger jobs, without the stuff hardening up in the tube. rich/Binkie
Whalerdog	posted 06-14-2009 09:22 PM ET (US) they should sell small tubes like sample tooth paste.
PeteB88	posted 06-14-2009 10:11 PM ET (US) What about epoxy, Rich? and the others.
Dan	posted 06-14-2009 10:27 PM ET (US) Your tubes will last longer if stored in a small ziploc plastic bag. Also put tape around the cap. If the static trim is good, then I wouldn't worry. If there is a transducer, remove the screws and see if any water leaks out. This could give an indication of water saturation.
pcrussell50	posted 06-15-2009 12:48 AM ET (US) Is there concern about water intrusion into the foam from where the _factory_ fasteners attach the console and such? Obviously, there is concern where careless owners start drilling their own holes, but I would hope the factory would either take better care, or have accounted for this by having something under the deck besides foam, where they know they will be drilling. I'm talking about a 13 foot classic. -Peter
20dauntless	posted 06-15-2009 01:07 AM ET (US) The best way to avoid any type of water intrusion is to drill a larger hole than necessary, fill the hole with epoxy, then put the screw into the epoxy. This will eliminate any concern of water intrusion into the foam core.
Plotman	posted 06-15-2009 08:19 AM ET (US) 5200 is an adhesive. There are plenty of sealants I would use before 5200. Pull out the screws, put some sealant on the threads and in the hole, bed the fixture in sealant, replace the screw, clean up the excess, and you should be good to go.
R T M	posted 06-15-2009 11:05 AM ET (US) Plotman, your wrong about that, 5200 is a sealant and an adhesive. Fill a small screw hole with 5200, preferably 5200 fast set, as it won`t seep into the hole and possibly leave an open space,let it cure, and then try to remove it. You will find it impossible to do. No, 5200 will not make a hole disappear, for that you need to use something like MarineTex or something similar, and then gelcoat or paint over it. If you are screwing down a wooden cleat to hold a console or battery box, etc., Drill your holes through the wood and the floor, take the wood up, put a dab of 5200 over the holes, screw the holes through the wood so the points show through fit the wood on the deck so that the points of the screws fit in the holes, and then screw it down. Who knows if the factory does this, as it takes more production time. If you put a line of 5200 under the whole piece of wood, you will have a lot to deal with if you ever want to remove the wood. If you use only a sealant it will let water in behind it, and can be peeled of with a plastic knife. A good substitute for 5200 is white exterior window chalk, but make sure it is adhesive caulk. rich/Binkie
PeteB88	posted 06-15-2009 11:10 AM ET (US) Okay, what do you do if the hole is wet? Minimal water intrusion but enough so epoxy would not cure? This assumes hole is drilled through to wood areas installed during manufacturing process.
R T M	posted 06-15-2009 11:16 AM ET (US) I neglected to state that the method for screwing wood cleats into the floor in my above post, is for where there is wood backing. If there is no wood backing, drill a larger hole, ream out the foam around the hole with the bent end of an allen wrench chucked into a drill, fill the void with epoxy, re drill, put a dab of 5200 over the hole, and fasten the cleat like in my above post. rich/Binkie
R T M	posted 06-15-2009 11:24 AM ET (US) Pete, Just drill the hole larger and fill the hole with Gorilla glue, which is some form of one part epoxy, that kicks off with moisture. Then put a piece of tape over the hole.It expands big time, so when it starts to expand, hold your finger or a weight, (finger works best) over the hole so the expanding glue fills any voids in the hull area. When it sets just dill a new hole, and screw into the Gorilla glue. It has worked for me and others, and there was a long thread about using Gorilla glue over at the other forum a while back. rich/Binkie