Ideal towing stance? - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
  Ideal towing stance?

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Ideal towing stance?

jmarlo posted 08-19-2009 12:06 PM ET (US)
I had to replace the hydraulic suspension (with coil springs) on my tow vehicle, and my vehicle now sits a few inches higher than before. As a result, the trailer does not sit level when attached to the hitch. I have two choices (without having to buy another hitch insert-by hitch insert I am referring to the male coupling to which the ball is attached and that attaches to the receiver assembly). I can flip the hitch insert up, and have the forward portion of the trailer ride at a slight incline, or I can flip the hitch insert down, and have the trailer ride at a slight decline. For towing purposes, which is the better position? Logic tells my to have the trailer at a slight incline, maybe its just because it looks right. Trailer is double axle.
Buckda posted 08-19-2009 12:10 PM ET (US)
For a tandem axle trailer, I'd buy a new receiver hitch insert and tow with it level.
If you had a single axle trailer, I'd recommend (for the purposes of this compromise discussion), the tongue slightly lower - effectively INCREASING your tongue weight and improving stability during hard braking.
But for $30, doesn't it make sense in both cases to just by the correct receiver insert?
pglein posted 08-19-2009 12:16 PM ET (US)
Do you have a drop hitch or a straight hitch? If it's a drop hitch, then you should buy one that has the appropriate offset and flip it whichever way works best. If it's a straight hitch, and you can't get anything with less offset, I would pull the boat with bow slightly UP, so as to induce drainage.
Since it is a tandem axle, it needs to be as close to level as you can get it.
jmarlo posted 08-19-2009 01:11 PM ET (US)
I realize I can buy a hitch to make it perfectly level, but I already have 3 hitches, and in an effort to use what I have, and not buy more stuff, I'm just curious as to how the towing dynamics differ from a slighly higher, versus lower, versus level differ. Not surprisingly, already two different suggestions, both based on sound reasoning.
Stevebaz posted 08-19-2009 02:26 PM ET (US)
You want the load level for 3 reasons, the tongue riding up on the ball puts all the braking load in the coupler on the weakest part of the coupler. The lower clamp foot is not where I want a prying force on the coupler. In towing the greatest strength in the hitch ball is a straight line shear force. By aiming the trailer tongue up towards the hitch ball you ad a force on the hitch ball to move some of the shear load to a tension load on the ball stud. If you have a large enough load to require a double axle trailer I wouldn't compromise your hitch strength.
I have seen only 1 failure in the stamped steel coupler housing but have seen, and have had my own problems and heard of many instances of problems in the clamping mechanism on the trailer hitches. Best not to compromise an already finicky system.
Another issue with a hitch aiming uphill is braking force on the tow car. The heavy boat and trailer unloads the rear axle decreasing the weight on the rear axle decreasing the brake force when you need it most in a panic situation.
Steve
pglein posted 08-19-2009 02:52 PM ET (US)
It's a tandem trailer. Just buy a new drop hitch with the proper offset. Seriously, the cost of a new hitch is miniscule compared to the damage you could do to the trailer by reguarly towing it with all the weight on just two of the wheels.
If you really must tow it with your existing equipment, I suggest you alternate between bow-high and bow-low. That way, at least you'll be spreading the fatigue between different parts, rather than focusing it on just portions of the rig.
Landlocked posted 08-19-2009 03:07 PM ET (US)
IF you trailer has a torsion axle, It must be towed level to avoid damage.... At least that's what the stickers on mine say.
Ll.
newt posted 08-19-2009 03:52 PM ET (US)
If it were me, I'd probably eventually buy the correct drop hitch, but in the interim, an inch or two won't matter all that much so long as you have springs and not torsion axles. With springs the load is equalized between the two axles. As already mentioned, torsion axle trailers need to be level or one axle will carry more load than the other.
Phil T posted 08-19-2009 03:58 PM ET (US)
I would sell the 3 mounts you own on Craigslist and buy what you need.
When I bought my new (to-me) Outrage, I had to buy a new ball mount (this is the part that goes into the hitch and what you install the ball onto).
Better safe than sorry.
deepwater posted 08-19-2009 08:21 PM ET (US)
Carry more of your gear in the rear of the truck
jmarlo posted 08-20-2009 01:00 PM ET (US)
Ok, thank everyone for their suggestions. I had not considered the effect on torsion axles. I now will be using a hitch with proper drop so trailer rides level. Since I'm facing a 11+ hour tow tomorrow to Lake Tahoe, I want to minimize any potential issues. With new tires, new wheel bearings, and a level trailering postion, I hope I am good to go.
Thanks!
westcoastwhaler posted 08-20-2009 01:29 PM ET (US)
I would pull all drain plugs prior to leaving OC so that all standing water is out of the boat. Zebra mussels are a big deal now and Tahoe has a decontamination process if there is water in the boat. Here is a link.
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/ltbmu/invasive-species/zebra.shtml
Best of luck with the tow and the trip to Tahoe.
jmarlo posted 08-20-2009 02:05 PM ET (US)
Great idea on pulling plugs. I'll remember to double check that and run bilge pump one extra time. There is nothing like arriving at your destination to realize that you have been unnecessarily hauling extra water!
I'm not looking forward to the zebra mussle inspection--I understand its $30 a pop, thats some decent gas/beer money.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Ideal towing stance?
jmarlo	posted 08-19-2009 12:06 PM ET (US) I had to replace the hydraulic suspension (with coil springs) on my tow vehicle, and my vehicle now sits a few inches higher than before. As a result, the trailer does not sit level when attached to the hitch. I have two choices (without having to buy another hitch insert-by hitch insert I am referring to the male coupling to which the ball is attached and that attaches to the receiver assembly). I can flip the hitch insert up, and have the forward portion of the trailer ride at a slight incline, or I can flip the hitch insert down, and have the trailer ride at a slight decline. For towing purposes, which is the better position? Logic tells my to have the trailer at a slight incline, maybe its just because it looks right. Trailer is double axle.
Buckda	posted 08-19-2009 12:10 PM ET (US) For a tandem axle trailer, I'd buy a new receiver hitch insert and tow with it level. If you had a single axle trailer, I'd recommend (for the purposes of this compromise discussion), the tongue slightly lower - effectively INCREASING your tongue weight and improving stability during hard braking. But for $30, doesn't it make sense in both cases to just by the correct receiver insert?
pglein	posted 08-19-2009 12:16 PM ET (US) Do you have a drop hitch or a straight hitch? If it's a drop hitch, then you should buy one that has the appropriate offset and flip it whichever way works best. If it's a straight hitch, and you can't get anything with less offset, I would pull the boat with bow slightly UP, so as to induce drainage. Since it is a tandem axle, it needs to be as close to level as you can get it.
jmarlo	posted 08-19-2009 01:11 PM ET (US) I realize I can buy a hitch to make it perfectly level, but I already have 3 hitches, and in an effort to use what I have, and not buy more stuff, I'm just curious as to how the towing dynamics differ from a slighly higher, versus lower, versus level differ. Not surprisingly, already two different suggestions, both based on sound reasoning.
Stevebaz	posted 08-19-2009 02:26 PM ET (US) You want the load level for 3 reasons, the tongue riding up on the ball puts all the braking load in the coupler on the weakest part of the coupler. The lower clamp foot is not where I want a prying force on the coupler. In towing the greatest strength in the hitch ball is a straight line shear force. By aiming the trailer tongue up towards the hitch ball you ad a force on the hitch ball to move some of the shear load to a tension load on the ball stud. If you have a large enough load to require a double axle trailer I wouldn't compromise your hitch strength. I have seen only 1 failure in the stamped steel coupler housing but have seen, and have had my own problems and heard of many instances of problems in the clamping mechanism on the trailer hitches. Best not to compromise an already finicky system. Another issue with a hitch aiming uphill is braking force on the tow car. The heavy boat and trailer unloads the rear axle decreasing the weight on the rear axle decreasing the brake force when you need it most in a panic situation. Steve
pglein	posted 08-19-2009 02:52 PM ET (US) It's a tandem trailer. Just buy a new drop hitch with the proper offset. Seriously, the cost of a new hitch is miniscule compared to the damage you could do to the trailer by reguarly towing it with all the weight on just two of the wheels. If you really must tow it with your existing equipment, I suggest you alternate between bow-high and bow-low. That way, at least you'll be spreading the fatigue between different parts, rather than focusing it on just portions of the rig.
Landlocked	posted 08-19-2009 03:07 PM ET (US) IF you trailer has a torsion axle, It must be towed level to avoid damage.... At least that's what the stickers on mine say. Ll.
newt	posted 08-19-2009 03:52 PM ET (US) If it were me, I'd probably eventually buy the correct drop hitch, but in the interim, an inch or two won't matter all that much so long as you have springs and not torsion axles. With springs the load is equalized between the two axles. As already mentioned, torsion axle trailers need to be level or one axle will carry more load than the other.
Phil T	posted 08-19-2009 03:58 PM ET (US) I would sell the 3 mounts you own on Craigslist and buy what you need. When I bought my new (to-me) Outrage, I had to buy a new ball mount (this is the part that goes into the hitch and what you install the ball onto). Better safe than sorry.
deepwater	posted 08-19-2009 08:21 PM ET (US) Carry more of your gear in the rear of the truck
jmarlo	posted 08-20-2009 01:00 PM ET (US) Ok, thank everyone for their suggestions. I had not considered the effect on torsion axles. I now will be using a hitch with proper drop so trailer rides level. Since I'm facing a 11+ hour tow tomorrow to Lake Tahoe, I want to minimize any potential issues. With new tires, new wheel bearings, and a level trailering postion, I hope I am good to go. Thanks!
westcoastwhaler	posted 08-20-2009 01:29 PM ET (US) I would pull all drain plugs prior to leaving OC so that all standing water is out of the boat. Zebra mussels are a big deal now and Tahoe has a decontamination process if there is water in the boat. Here is a link. http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/ltbmu/invasive-species/zebra.shtml Best of luck with the tow and the trip to Tahoe.
jmarlo	posted 08-20-2009 02:05 PM ET (US) Great idea on pulling plugs. I'll remember to double check that and run bilge pump one extra time. There is nothing like arriving at your destination to realize that you have been unnecessarily hauling extra water! I'm not looking forward to the zebra mussle inspection--I understand its $30 a pop, thats some decent gas/beer money.