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Author Topic:   Bunk Glides

Ferdinando posted 01-08-2011 09:56 AM ET (US)
I have a Montauk 190 with the Karavan trailer. It sits quite high on the trailer and to get it into the water at low tide is a workout.
Has anybody used the plastic glides that you put on the trailer bunks? Do they work? Can they harm the bottom of the boat as the Karvan does not have any rollers and the entire weight of the boat always rests on the bunks.
Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
Thks,
Fred
Dave Sutton posted 01-08-2011 10:11 AM ET (US)
The glides will help... but that's a boat that really wants to have rollers under the keel. Reworking a trailer is not that difficult: Add rollers and you'll be happier. Use the self-centering ones with the 'screw pattern' on them to center the boat as it's winched up. Between rollers on the keep and glides on the bunks it'll be a different rig.

Dave
.
alfred posted 01-08-2011 11:22 AM ET (US)
This might get moved to the Post Classic section, but I had the same problem with my 190 Outrage. I have very shallow ramps and it was a nightmare to get it on and off, till I got some slides. Piece of cake now, just push her and off she goes, and I can now actually winch her back on with little effort.
pcrussell50 posted 01-08-2011 11:44 AM ET (US)
Excuse the ignorance, but what's the big deal with shallow ramps? Can't you just back up further until she gets deep enough?
-Peter
pcrussell50 posted 01-08-2011 11:50 AM ET (US)
Excuse the ignorance, but what's the big deal with shallow ramps? Can't you just back up further until she gets deep enough?
-Peter
Waterwonderland posted 01-08-2011 12:36 PM ET (US)
Any particular brand of glides that are better than others?
BTW - Some ramps are rather primitive. Back up too far and you never get out. Then there are the ramps that are in shallow waters which don't provide a deep water launch.
contender posted 01-08-2011 05:04 PM ET (US)
Peter: depending on how shallow the ramp is sometimes you can have your car in the water before the boat floats off the trailer.
Ferdinando: can you post a picture of your trailer? You can do this its a little work but may help you out. Check out your axle/springs, if the axle sits under the springs you can invert the axle and place the springs under the axle, This will drop your boat trailer about 2 inches, Will help you at a shallow ramp, Watch out for the fenders, may have to adjust them also... Another thing is you could go to a smaller diameter tire...Good luck
Ferdinando posted 01-08-2011 05:44 PM ET (US)
Thks guys for all the advise. My Karavan would be a pain in the ass to put rollers on unless I weld new cross beams.
Alfred your use of the glides makes me hopefull. My only concern with the glides is that all the weight of the boat rests on the glides.
Have you had any problems with the plastic glides marking the bottom of the boat or scratching the fiberglass.
My other question is did you put the gliders the full length of the bunk?
Thks again guys appreciate the help.
Fred
Phil T posted 01-08-2011 05:45 PM ET (US)
Peter -
Many trailer manufacturers include short tongues that don't permit deep submersion.
I replaced the tongue on my Montauk's Royal trailer and added a 3ft hinged extention to my Outrage 17's Load Rite trailer for this reason.
Waterwonderland posted 01-08-2011 06:32 PM ET (US)
Fred,
If you do a search on this site there are some older posts on this subject. Since technology and products are always changing, the input may vary on relevance.
From what I have seen in other discussions, most do love them. I agree with others that you should find some way to get some rollers under your Whaler keel. If you go to the Reference section you will find info on how to rig your trailer.
alfred posted 01-08-2011 07:19 PM ET (US)
Peter, at some of the ramps my back wheels are in the water before half the bunks are even wet. Not really keen to have salt water in the cabin each time I go boating.
I am using polydeck as slides. This way I can get them the full length and width of the original bunk.
Jefecinco posted 01-08-2011 07:34 PM ET (US)
Peter,
Another reason some of us don't care to back in as far as we may be able is that due to power loading there is often a deep excavation at the foot of the concrete ramp apron. If the trailer tires drop off into the hole it can be very difficult to pull the trailer out again. One's life may be at risk at a crowed ramp on the weekend if one is stupid enough to block the ramp for any extended time. ;=)
It can also be hard on a tow vehicle to immerse the rear wheels in salt water.
Happily, my 190 Montauk launches and recovers well when the trailer, a Karavan, is backed in just enough for the water to be just below the tops of the fenders. Not backing farther than that does necessitate power loading. Perhaps if I add glides to the bunks my helpers will be able to winch the boat onto the trailer without the assistance of the engine. But, even with a two speed winch, without glides it's difficult for me and my old geezer companions to load recover the boat using the winch alone.
Maybe I'll consider them if Fred tries them and recommends them. He has been a trail blazer for me.
Butch
Ferdinando posted 01-08-2011 08:46 PM ET (US)
Butch thanks for the kind comment, did you install the Rancor yet?
Ferdinando posted 01-08-2011 08:48 PM ET (US)
Wel guy's I think I'm going to give the glides a shot I will probably order them tonight, just hope they work....
Thks,
Fred
pcrussell50 posted 01-08-2011 08:50 PM ET (US)
Thanks guys, I may talk a big game when it comes to automotive suspension and handling, and EFI car engines, but at 2 and half years, I'm still new to boating, and seamanship is a particular weakness for me because so much of it is learned from experience. With a million ways to die on e water, I always prefer to learn seamanship from others mistakes rather than my own.
-Peter
Chuck Tribolet posted 01-08-2011 10:14 PM ET (US)
I spray my bunks with silicone a couple of times a year.
It makes a big difference.

Chuck
Waterwonderland posted 01-08-2011 10:29 PM ET (US)
Fred,
What brand of guides are you ordering?
BobL posted 01-09-2011 12:02 AM ET (US)
Ferdinando,
Adding cross members is not a pain and does not require welding. Trailer supply stores have brackets and cross members that simply bolt on anywhere you want them. The first site below is a good source for brackets. The second site I like best for the cross members. The roller brackets can be purchased at either one of these site or at your favorite local marine store.
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=CROSS&Bc=&parts=Crossmembers+%26+Brackets
http://www.championtrailers.com/CORROSION_RESISTANT_METALS.htm#gal_box_tube
BobL posted 01-09-2011 12:05 AM ET (US)
Ferdinando,
Adding cross members is not a pain and does not require welding. Trailer supply stores have brackets and cross members that simply bolt on anywhere you want them. The first site below is a good source for brackets. The second site I like best for the cross members. The roller brackets can be purchased at either one of these site or at your favorite local marine store.
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=CROSS&Bc=& parts=Crossmembers+%26+Brackets
http://www.championtrailers.com/CORROSION_RESISTANT_METALS. htm#gal_box_tube
alfred posted 01-09-2011 06:21 AM ET (US)
Chuck - I have read that folks spray silicone and it helps, but was worried that sand and grit would stick to it and then scratch the hull. Is that an issue?
I didn't do it was Perth is the third windiest city in the world and the wind is always blowing sand all over the place, especially down at the beach/ramps.
Marlin posted 01-09-2011 08:39 AM ET (US)
I typically launch at a very shallow ramp with my Dauntless 160. I tried silicone spray on the bunks, but I found that after I applied it it was too slick, and the boat wouldn't stay on the bunks when I was first loading. After a couple of launches, it wasn't slick enough anymore.
I installed bunk slides, I think they were "Glyde Slicks", in a double row on each bunk to distribute the weight as much as possible. They're perfect -- I can push the boat off the trailer by hand, yet when I'm recovering I can coast the boat up onto the trailer and she'll stay there, more or less, while I attach the winch strap.
-Bob
boatdryver posted 01-09-2011 10:56 AM ET (US)
I used plastic bunk glides on the trailer for my 3500 lb welded aluminum jet boat.
In addition to easier on and off when launching and retreiving, I really liked being able to winch the boat forward a few inches by hand when the trailer was up on the level part of the launch area those times when the boat's final position turned out to be a little short of the trailer's bow stop.
JimL
Ferdinando posted 01-09-2011 07:56 PM ET (US)
Bob, thks for the info did not know about those types of crossmembers. Still don't know what kink of glidesticks to install. I'm still worried about all that weight on those glide sticks and the effect on the hull long term.
Fred
Tarpun posted 01-09-2011 11:21 PM ET (US)
I have used both silicone spray and Pam cooking spray on my bunks. Both worked well and neither seemed to attract any grit or dirt. On my whaler the first time I sprayed the bunks I launched the boat, sprayed the bunks and went fishing. When I returned I tried to follow my usual solo retreival procedure...drive the boat onto the trailer to the bow stop, shutdown, go foward and hook up the winch cable. To my surprise as soon as I took the motor out of gear the boat would slide back into the water. After the 3rd attempt I left the boat in gear at fast idle to keep it on the trailer. Since the I only spray the last 1/2of the bunks. By the way the trailer is a galvanized Continental with bunks and keel rollers and it works very well. As far as glides go I have personally seen 2 boats slide off trailers at the ramp due to extreme slickness of glides. Both time were attriutable to pilot error but would not have happened if there were no glides on the bunks.
DeeVee posted 01-09-2011 11:29 PM ET (US)
I removed the bunk glides from my bunks, after I completed the installation of the keel rollers. I found evidence of grit getting between the hard plastic of the bunk glides and the gelcoat. There was significant abrasion of gelcoat from the grit.
With the keel rollers, loading and unloading is not a problem.
Doug Vazquez
Chuck Tribolet posted 01-10-2011 06:58 AM ET (US)
No problem with stuff sticking to silicone spray. It drys
out but remains slippery.

Chuck
frontier posted 01-10-2011 10:14 AM ET (US)
We've been using King 'Salt Water' boat trailers for a long time up here in the PNW.
Most of their trailers have come standard with "Glide King" high-density polyethylene bunk sleeves for years now.
Including the KB 1750 model I use on our classic 17 hull.
One thing they say about them is:
"Glide-King bunks' molded design channels away abrasive silt and grit that is normally trapped on carpeted bunks".
I like them, but abrasion may still be an issue.
Dauntless 180 posted 01-10-2011 10:27 AM ET (US)
I had these....http://www.tiedown.com/aglideons.html
On my Sea Lion trailer when I owned a Sea Hunt 202. I loved them. I could get the stern in the water about 6 inches and just push the bow and off she went
brainstormer posted 01-17-2011 10:07 AM ET (US)
I also had this problem, and I got a reputable welder to extend my tongue 30 inches, it mayde the difference.

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Author	Topic: Bunk Glides
Ferdinando	posted 01-08-2011 09:56 AM ET (US) I have a Montauk 190 with the Karavan trailer. It sits quite high on the trailer and to get it into the water at low tide is a workout. Has anybody used the plastic glides that you put on the trailer bunks? Do they work? Can they harm the bottom of the boat as the Karvan does not have any rollers and the entire weight of the boat always rests on the bunks. Any suggestions or comments are appreciated. Thks, Fred
Dave Sutton	posted 01-08-2011 10:11 AM ET (US) The glides will help... but that's a boat that really wants to have rollers under the keel. Reworking a trailer is not that difficult: Add rollers and you'll be happier. Use the self-centering ones with the 'screw pattern' on them to center the boat as it's winched up. Between rollers on the keep and glides on the bunks it'll be a different rig. Dave .
alfred	posted 01-08-2011 11:22 AM ET (US) This might get moved to the Post Classic section, but I had the same problem with my 190 Outrage. I have very shallow ramps and it was a nightmare to get it on and off, till I got some slides. Piece of cake now, just push her and off she goes, and I can now actually winch her back on with little effort.
pcrussell50	posted 01-08-2011 11:44 AM ET (US) Excuse the ignorance, but what's the big deal with shallow ramps? Can't you just back up further until she gets deep enough? -Peter
pcrussell50	posted 01-08-2011 11:50 AM ET (US) Excuse the ignorance, but what's the big deal with shallow ramps? Can't you just back up further until she gets deep enough? -Peter
Waterwonderland	posted 01-08-2011 12:36 PM ET (US) Any particular brand of glides that are better than others? BTW - Some ramps are rather primitive. Back up too far and you never get out. Then there are the ramps that are in shallow waters which don't provide a deep water launch.
contender	posted 01-08-2011 05:04 PM ET (US) Peter: depending on how shallow the ramp is sometimes you can have your car in the water before the boat floats off the trailer. Ferdinando: can you post a picture of your trailer? You can do this its a little work but may help you out. Check out your axle/springs, if the axle sits under the springs you can invert the axle and place the springs under the axle, This will drop your boat trailer about 2 inches, Will help you at a shallow ramp, Watch out for the fenders, may have to adjust them also... Another thing is you could go to a smaller diameter tire...Good luck
Ferdinando	posted 01-08-2011 05:44 PM ET (US) Thks guys for all the advise. My Karavan would be a pain in the ass to put rollers on unless I weld new cross beams. Alfred your use of the glides makes me hopefull. My only concern with the glides is that all the weight of the boat rests on the glides. Have you had any problems with the plastic glides marking the bottom of the boat or scratching the fiberglass. My other question is did you put the gliders the full length of the bunk? Thks again guys appreciate the help. Fred
Phil T	posted 01-08-2011 05:45 PM ET (US) Peter - Many trailer manufacturers include short tongues that don't permit deep submersion. I replaced the tongue on my Montauk's Royal trailer and added a 3ft hinged extention to my Outrage 17's Load Rite trailer for this reason.
Waterwonderland	posted 01-08-2011 06:32 PM ET (US) Fred, If you do a search on this site there are some older posts on this subject. Since technology and products are always changing, the input may vary on relevance. From what I have seen in other discussions, most do love them. I agree with others that you should find some way to get some rollers under your Whaler keel. If you go to the Reference section you will find info on how to rig your trailer.
alfred	posted 01-08-2011 07:19 PM ET (US) Peter, at some of the ramps my back wheels are in the water before half the bunks are even wet. Not really keen to have salt water in the cabin each time I go boating. I am using polydeck as slides. This way I can get them the full length and width of the original bunk.
Jefecinco	posted 01-08-2011 07:34 PM ET (US) Peter, Another reason some of us don't care to back in as far as we may be able is that due to power loading there is often a deep excavation at the foot of the concrete ramp apron. If the trailer tires drop off into the hole it can be very difficult to pull the trailer out again. One's life may be at risk at a crowed ramp on the weekend if one is stupid enough to block the ramp for any extended time. ;=) It can also be hard on a tow vehicle to immerse the rear wheels in salt water. Happily, my 190 Montauk launches and recovers well when the trailer, a Karavan, is backed in just enough for the water to be just below the tops of the fenders. Not backing farther than that does necessitate power loading. Perhaps if I add glides to the bunks my helpers will be able to winch the boat onto the trailer without the assistance of the engine. But, even with a two speed winch, without glides it's difficult for me and my old geezer companions to load recover the boat using the winch alone. Maybe I'll consider them if Fred tries them and recommends them. He has been a trail blazer for me. Butch
Ferdinando	posted 01-08-2011 08:46 PM ET (US) Butch thanks for the kind comment, did you install the Rancor yet?
Ferdinando	posted 01-08-2011 08:48 PM ET (US) Wel guy's I think I'm going to give the glides a shot I will probably order them tonight, just hope they work.... Thks, Fred
pcrussell50	posted 01-08-2011 08:50 PM ET (US) Thanks guys, I may talk a big game when it comes to automotive suspension and handling, and EFI car engines, but at 2 and half years, I'm still new to boating, and seamanship is a particular weakness for me because so much of it is learned from experience. With a million ways to die on e water, I always prefer to learn seamanship from others mistakes rather than my own. -Peter
Chuck Tribolet	posted 01-08-2011 10:14 PM ET (US) I spray my bunks with silicone a couple of times a year. It makes a big difference. Chuck
Waterwonderland	posted 01-08-2011 10:29 PM ET (US) Fred, What brand of guides are you ordering?
BobL	posted 01-09-2011 12:02 AM ET (US) Ferdinando, Adding cross members is not a pain and does not require welding. Trailer supply stores have brackets and cross members that simply bolt on anywhere you want them. The first site below is a good source for brackets. The second site I like best for the cross members. The roller brackets can be purchased at either one of these site or at your favorite local marine store. http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=CROSS&Bc=&parts=Crossmembers+%26+Brackets http://www.championtrailers.com/CORROSION_RESISTANT_METALS.htm#gal_box_tube
BobL	posted 01-09-2011 12:05 AM ET (US) Ferdinando, Adding cross members is not a pain and does not require welding. Trailer supply stores have brackets and cross members that simply bolt on anywhere you want them. The first site below is a good source for brackets. The second site I like best for the cross members. The roller brackets can be purchased at either one of these site or at your favorite local marine store. http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=CROSS&Bc=& parts=Crossmembers+%26+Brackets http://www.championtrailers.com/CORROSION_RESISTANT_METALS. htm#gal_box_tube
alfred	posted 01-09-2011 06:21 AM ET (US) Chuck - I have read that folks spray silicone and it helps, but was worried that sand and grit would stick to it and then scratch the hull. Is that an issue? I didn't do it was Perth is the third windiest city in the world and the wind is always blowing sand all over the place, especially down at the beach/ramps.
Marlin	posted 01-09-2011 08:39 AM ET (US) I typically launch at a very shallow ramp with my Dauntless 160. I tried silicone spray on the bunks, but I found that after I applied it it was too slick, and the boat wouldn't stay on the bunks when I was first loading. After a couple of launches, it wasn't slick enough anymore. I installed bunk slides, I think they were "Glyde Slicks", in a double row on each bunk to distribute the weight as much as possible. They're perfect -- I can push the boat off the trailer by hand, yet when I'm recovering I can coast the boat up onto the trailer and she'll stay there, more or less, while I attach the winch strap. -Bob
boatdryver	posted 01-09-2011 10:56 AM ET (US) I used plastic bunk glides on the trailer for my 3500 lb welded aluminum jet boat. In addition to easier on and off when launching and retreiving, I really liked being able to winch the boat forward a few inches by hand when the trailer was up on the level part of the launch area those times when the boat's final position turned out to be a little short of the trailer's bow stop. JimL
Ferdinando	posted 01-09-2011 07:56 PM ET (US) Bob, thks for the info did not know about those types of crossmembers. Still don't know what kink of glidesticks to install. I'm still worried about all that weight on those glide sticks and the effect on the hull long term. Fred
Tarpun	posted 01-09-2011 11:21 PM ET (US) I have used both silicone spray and Pam cooking spray on my bunks. Both worked well and neither seemed to attract any grit or dirt. On my whaler the first time I sprayed the bunks I launched the boat, sprayed the bunks and went fishing. When I returned I tried to follow my usual solo retreival procedure...drive the boat onto the trailer to the bow stop, shutdown, go foward and hook up the winch cable. To my surprise as soon as I took the motor out of gear the boat would slide back into the water. After the 3rd attempt I left the boat in gear at fast idle to keep it on the trailer. Since the I only spray the last 1/2of the bunks. By the way the trailer is a galvanized Continental with bunks and keel rollers and it works very well. As far as glides go I have personally seen 2 boats slide off trailers at the ramp due to extreme slickness of glides. Both time were attriutable to pilot error but would not have happened if there were no glides on the bunks.
DeeVee	posted 01-09-2011 11:29 PM ET (US) I removed the bunk glides from my bunks, after I completed the installation of the keel rollers. I found evidence of grit getting between the hard plastic of the bunk glides and the gelcoat. There was significant abrasion of gelcoat from the grit. With the keel rollers, loading and unloading is not a problem. Doug Vazquez
Chuck Tribolet	posted 01-10-2011 06:58 AM ET (US) No problem with stuff sticking to silicone spray. It drys out but remains slippery. Chuck
frontier	posted 01-10-2011 10:14 AM ET (US) We've been using King 'Salt Water' boat trailers for a long time up here in the PNW. Most of their trailers have come standard with "Glide King" high-density polyethylene bunk sleeves for years now. Including the KB 1750 model I use on our classic 17 hull. One thing they say about them is: "Glide-King bunks' molded design channels away abrasive silt and grit that is normally trapped on carpeted bunks". I like them, but abrasion may still be an issue.
Dauntless 180	posted 01-10-2011 10:27 AM ET (US) I had these....http://www.tiedown.com/aglideons.html On my Sea Lion trailer when I owned a Sea Hunt 202. I loved them. I could get the stern in the water about 6 inches and just push the bow and off she went
brainstormer	posted 01-17-2011 10:07 AM ET (US) I also had this problem, and I got a reputable welder to extend my tongue 30 inches, it mayde the difference.