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Author Topic:   Chrome Plated Screws

tmann45 posted 05-09-2011 09:10 AM ET (US)
It appears that a lot of the fasteners used on my 1997 Outrage 21 are chrome plated brass or bronze. Some are showing signs of verdigris. Was this a phase due to a shortage or cost of stainless or was it the standard?
Most of these screws seem to be very high quality, tougher that box store brass and still look great, no corrosion.
Anyone have any information on the history of what Boston Whaler used, stainless versus chrome plated?
Are the chrome plated still available and if so, where?
If you had to replace some which would you use, stainless or chrome plated (assuming they are available)?

Tom W Clark posted 05-09-2011 10:42 AM ET (US)
Chrome plated brass screws were common decades ago and were used on Whalers in the 1960s and early 1970s. Stainless steel has been used since.
Whaler started bragging in the 2000s that they used chrome plated stainless steel fasteners. I do not know exactly what they used in 1997.
I would use stainless steel for replacement fasteners, though chrome plated brass are readily available. I have never seen chrome plated stainless steel fasteners for sale.
weekendwarrior posted 05-09-2011 11:03 AM ET (US)
Good stainless is fantastic. If you are threading stainless into stainless (nut and bolt), be sure to use antiseize or lube of some kind. Sainless on stainless can gale and basically weld itself together without some kind of lube, and you can get stuck with a bolt half threaded in that won't budge. .
westcoastwhaler posted 05-09-2011 11:55 AM ET (US)
If you want to get a polished finish to match your existing chrome fasteners, use rogue and a buffing wheel on the fastener heads. I attached the buffing wheel to my bench grinder and each screw takes about 15 seconds.
I have been doing this for all of the screws that I add/replace on my whalers and it makes a big difference.
Chuck Tribolet posted 05-09-2011 12:53 PM ET (US)
"gall", not "gale"
Always tighten stainless on stainless by hand, and I don't
mean just the last little bit. I remember running some
small (3/16?) stainless nuts down on stainless bolts with
a cordless drill. I had one gall and seize up a good 1/16"
before things started to seat. The bolt was noticeably loose.
Fortunately, it was small enough that it was easy to break
the bolt by hand.
Any lube is good, a real anti-seize is best. I like the Permatex stuff, messy, but seems to work well.

Chuck
contender posted 05-09-2011 02:18 PM ET (US)
I have always thought that chrome over brass was the best type of marine hardware, never rusted, as does some stainless, just turns a little green sometimes. I use a small dap of triple guard grease on any of my nuts/bolts/hardware, seems to protect it very nicely and always comes undone.
Chuck Tribolet posted 05-09-2011 03:51 PM ET (US)
Brass is nowhere near as strong as stainless.

Chuck
contender posted 05-09-2011 05:19 PM ET (US)
And Galvanize is stronger than stainless, and grade 8 is stronger than galvanize, and titanium is stronger than grade 8...I was thinking about corrosion properties...
Chuck Tribolet posted 05-09-2011 08:50 PM ET (US)
From McMaster-Carr catalog: 1/4-20 cap screws, 1.5" long, partially threaded:
Brass (92941A546): 45,000 PSI, $0.588 (pack of 10)
Galvanized (95373A146): 60,000 PSI, $0.0974 ea (pack of 100)
316 Stainless (92186A546): 70,000 PSI, $0.443 ea (pack of 10)
18-8 Stainless (92198A546): 70,000 PSI, $0.1934 ea (pack of 50)
Grade 8, zinc-plated (91257A546): 150,000 PSI, $0.1208 ea (pack of 100).
Stainless may get a little spot rust where it gets nicked and
not subsequently passivated, but it's just fine in salt water.
Beats the heck out of any plated steel over the long haul
And green brass is the equivalent of rust on iron.

Chuck
domlynch posted 05-09-2011 10:53 PM ET (US)
I like both (ie. I think both are ok) but my favourite is marine grade stainless steel (Grade 316). In my experience I've never noticed any tarnish or rust on this grade.
Grade 304 Stainless is also often used in for boat fittings - it does tarnish/rust slightly but I believ has a long service life.
The beauty of having something not plated is that there is no plating to wear off....

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Author	Topic: Chrome Plated Screws
tmann45	posted 05-09-2011 09:10 AM ET (US) It appears that a lot of the fasteners used on my 1997 Outrage 21 are chrome plated brass or bronze. Some are showing signs of verdigris. Was this a phase due to a shortage or cost of stainless or was it the standard? Most of these screws seem to be very high quality, tougher that box store brass and still look great, no corrosion. Anyone have any information on the history of what Boston Whaler used, stainless versus chrome plated? Are the chrome plated still available and if so, where? If you had to replace some which would you use, stainless or chrome plated (assuming they are available)?
Tom W Clark	posted 05-09-2011 10:42 AM ET (US) Chrome plated brass screws were common decades ago and were used on Whalers in the 1960s and early 1970s. Stainless steel has been used since. Whaler started bragging in the 2000s that they used chrome plated stainless steel fasteners. I do not know exactly what they used in 1997. I would use stainless steel for replacement fasteners, though chrome plated brass are readily available. I have never seen chrome plated stainless steel fasteners for sale.
weekendwarrior	posted 05-09-2011 11:03 AM ET (US) Good stainless is fantastic. If you are threading stainless into stainless (nut and bolt), be sure to use antiseize or lube of some kind. Sainless on stainless can gale and basically weld itself together without some kind of lube, and you can get stuck with a bolt half threaded in that won't budge. .
westcoastwhaler	posted 05-09-2011 11:55 AM ET (US) If you want to get a polished finish to match your existing chrome fasteners, use rogue and a buffing wheel on the fastener heads. I attached the buffing wheel to my bench grinder and each screw takes about 15 seconds. I have been doing this for all of the screws that I add/replace on my whalers and it makes a big difference.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 05-09-2011 12:53 PM ET (US) "gall", not "gale" Always tighten stainless on stainless by hand, and I don't mean just the last little bit. I remember running some small (3/16?) stainless nuts down on stainless bolts with a cordless drill. I had one gall and seize up a good 1/16" before things started to seat. The bolt was noticeably loose. Fortunately, it was small enough that it was easy to break the bolt by hand. Any lube is good, a real anti-seize is best. I like the Permatex stuff, messy, but seems to work well. Chuck
contender	posted 05-09-2011 02:18 PM ET (US) I have always thought that chrome over brass was the best type of marine hardware, never rusted, as does some stainless, just turns a little green sometimes. I use a small dap of triple guard grease on any of my nuts/bolts/hardware, seems to protect it very nicely and always comes undone.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 05-09-2011 03:51 PM ET (US) Brass is nowhere near as strong as stainless. Chuck
contender	posted 05-09-2011 05:19 PM ET (US) And Galvanize is stronger than stainless, and grade 8 is stronger than galvanize, and titanium is stronger than grade 8...I was thinking about corrosion properties...
Chuck Tribolet	posted 05-09-2011 08:50 PM ET (US) From McMaster-Carr catalog: 1/4-20 cap screws, 1.5" long, partially threaded: Brass (92941A546): 45,000 PSI, $0.588 (pack of 10) Galvanized (95373A146): 60,000 PSI, $0.0974 ea (pack of 100) 316 Stainless (92186A546): 70,000 PSI, $0.443 ea (pack of 10) 18-8 Stainless (92198A546): 70,000 PSI, $0.1934 ea (pack of 50) Grade 8, zinc-plated (91257A546): 150,000 PSI, $0.1208 ea (pack of 100). Stainless may get a little spot rust where it gets nicked and not subsequently passivated, but it's just fine in salt water. Beats the heck out of any plated steel over the long haul And green brass is the equivalent of rust on iron. Chuck
domlynch	posted 05-09-2011 10:53 PM ET (US) I like both (ie. I think both are ok) but my favourite is marine grade stainless steel (Grade 316). In my experience I've never noticed any tarnish or rust on this grade. Grade 304 Stainless is also often used in for boat fittings - it does tarnish/rust slightly but I believ has a long service life. The beauty of having something not plated is that there is no plating to wear off....