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Author Topic:   Winterizing

Langella7 posted 10-08-2011 09:16 AM ET (US)
This will be the first winter I have my [2005 Boston Whaler SPORT 13] with 40-HP [four-cycle outboard engine]. The boat is garage-stored but the garage is not heated. It does get cold in there, but don't think it reaches freezing temperatures. I have never [winterized] before, but I am pretty handy. Something in engine storage manual provided thru a Mercury website and other thing I have read differ. This is what I got so far.
--add stabilizer to portable gas tanks, swish around, and run engine for 10 minutes
--change engine oil/filter and gearcase oil and run engine
--grease steering rod, pivot points, trailer bearings
Those things I am totally comfortable doing Now the confusion--flushing cooling system by using appropriate anti-freeze and run thru while boat is running. Now can I do this through the hose attachment on the back of the engine? Or, do I have to get earmuffs to do this? How many gallons?
Fogging engine by spraying fogging spray into carb with engine running until it stalls. Remove spark plugs and spray fluid in their and replace. But how do you cool engine? Do you do this with flushing the cooling system at the same time?
In my engine storage manual it says nothing about fogging, it says to simple remove spark plugs and inject a small amount of engine oil inside each cylinder. Are they talking about fogging spray? Then rotate flywheel several times to distribute oil. Then change oil--that's it.
Anyway, this look right? Thanks
Just called a local marina that sells and services Boston Whaler boats for a price quote. They said at least $150 and they don't flush cooling system with antifreeze--there is no need. Does that sound right?
Peter posted 10-08-2011 12:06 PM ET (US)
Yes. No need to flush cooling system. Outboard motors drain all water when left vertical.
pcrussell50 posted 10-08-2011 12:16 PM ET (US)
I'd want to hook it up to the muffs and run it for a couple of minutes every so often. That way, you stay more in touch with it, maybe get some visceral or vicarious pleasure out of it, and most importantly, you KNOW it will start when you are ready for your first outing of the season.
I understand why winterizing is better than just stopping useage suddenly, for the season... BUT I lay even money that starting it and running it on the muffs every so often is at least as good if not better than sitting, winterized.
-Peter
Sourpuss1 posted 10-08-2011 07:58 PM ET (US)
I would love to start and run my outboard during the winter, but the garden hose would freeze up!
tom976 posted 10-08-2011 11:23 PM ET (US)
One thing to remember is to NOT and I mean NOT use the plastic straw that comes with carb cleaner or even fogging spray. If it lets loose when the motor is running or when you are spraying oil into the cylinders, you are screwed. (happened to me once when spraying the cylinders. I went bloop, right in and wasnt coming out. Had to take the head off etc to remove it. 5 minute job took much longer than expected.

As for fogging the motor. Yes, you run it and spray the fogging oil into it until it stalls. If you have multiple carbs, that can be more of a problem. In that case I would spray a bunch in and have someone else manually shut off the motor. Taking the plugs out and spraying a bit in with the cylinder in the lowest position. Tighten the plugs hand tight and leave it for replacement in the spring. Its also a good time to take a look at the plugs and make sure they are colored the same and in decent condition. Spraying down the motor with a light oil protectant will ensure it look like new year after year.
Langella7 posted 10-08-2011 11:33 PM ET (US)
Thanks everyone, got all the supplies today and plan on doing it Monday. As for greasing all the pivot points and steering rod, to I use regular grease that would come with grease gun at west marine?
martyn1075 posted 10-08-2011 11:48 PM ET (US)
tom976.. What brand oil protectant do you use? Is this the same as Quicksilver rust inhibitor?
kwik_wurk posted 10-09-2011 01:56 PM ET (US)
I would check your grease to make sure you don't have trailer wheel bearing grease in the gun. (If so, grease your bearings, and make sure you turn the bearings a bit by either jacking the tire and spinning it or moving the trailer.)
There is specific marine grease to use on pivot points (it will hold up better with water and salt). One thing I always do is get a new clean grease on the steering tube and then store the engine turned hard to PORT, this will retract the steering arm all the way into the tube.
One thing I do suggest is to get an aerosol corrosion block to spray on the motor. (If you boat in the salt, this takes on more significance.)
Buckda posted 10-09-2011 04:31 PM ET (US)
My procedure:
1) ADD an appropriate dose of stabilizer to the fuel tank.
2) RUN the motor(s) until it is fully warmed up
3) FOG the motor via the carburator or the schraeder valve. I usually go ahead and kill the motor in mid-fog.
4) PULL the spark plugs. Add fogging oil to cylinders, rotate flywheel by hand a few times, add fogging oil, close up cylinders (replace plugs).
5) CLEAN powerhead with a gentle cleanser and a clean rag.
6) INSPECT powerhead, hoses, wires, etc. for cracks, loose ends, spills, etc. Address any of these problems right away.
7) COAT powerhead with a light mist of silicone spray. I like to wipe the silicone spray on all the rubber/plastic components as well, and then I close up the cowling.
8) DRAIN lower unit oil, inspect for signs of metal shavings or water
9) REMOVE Propeller while lower unit oil is draining, lubricate propeller shaft and splines; inspect propeller shaft seal; replace propeller (if you're storing your boat in a public space, consider keeping the prop at home so you don't entice a would-be thief).
10) REFILL lower unit oil, replace gasket on drain fitting and clean up the lower unit exterior
11) INSPECT outboard - check your zincs and your paint for signs of wear, damage, etc. Repair/repaint/replace as needed.
12) Lubricate your steering arm and any other zerk fittings on the outboard
13) CLEAN AND WAX outboard and cowling in preparation for storage (and so you don't have to do this in the spring).
I usually take most of a Saturday morning to do this to all of my outboards (currently, I have three and I take care of my brother's). It's worth every minute. Two of my outboards are 39 years old and run like tops.
southshore fisherman posted 10-10-2011 08:54 AM ET (US)
I have read here that many outboard owners like to run the fuel out of the fuel line and motor when it's not going to be used in the immediate future.
How do you do this when fogging through the carbs kills the engine before the fuel is burnt?
I'm getting ready to winterize for the first time in a long time and never had the ethanol problem in the past. I do run the fuel out of my fuel line before I put the boat on the trailer but am not sure how to do this and fog the engine.
John
jimh posted 10-11-2011 12:27 AM ET (US)
In the REFERENCE section there is an excellent procedure for winterization of older carburetor motors. See
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/winterizeOMC.html

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Author	Topic: Winterizing
Langella7	posted 10-08-2011 09:16 AM ET (US) This will be the first winter I have my [2005 Boston Whaler SPORT 13] with 40-HP [four-cycle outboard engine]. The boat is garage-stored but the garage is not heated. It does get cold in there, but don't think it reaches freezing temperatures. I have never [winterized] before, but I am pretty handy. Something in engine storage manual provided thru a Mercury website and other thing I have read differ. This is what I got so far. --add stabilizer to portable gas tanks, swish around, and run engine for 10 minutes --change engine oil/filter and gearcase oil and run engine --grease steering rod, pivot points, trailer bearings Those things I am totally comfortable doing Now the confusion--flushing cooling system by using appropriate anti-freeze and run thru while boat is running. Now can I do this through the hose attachment on the back of the engine? Or, do I have to get earmuffs to do this? How many gallons? Fogging engine by spraying fogging spray into carb with engine running until it stalls. Remove spark plugs and spray fluid in their and replace. But how do you cool engine? Do you do this with flushing the cooling system at the same time? In my engine storage manual it says nothing about fogging, it says to simple remove spark plugs and inject a small amount of engine oil inside each cylinder. Are they talking about fogging spray? Then rotate flywheel several times to distribute oil. Then change oil--that's it. Anyway, this look right? Thanks Just called a local marina that sells and services Boston Whaler boats for a price quote. They said at least $150 and they don't flush cooling system with antifreeze--there is no need. Does that sound right?
Peter	posted 10-08-2011 12:06 PM ET (US) Yes. No need to flush cooling system. Outboard motors drain all water when left vertical.
pcrussell50	posted 10-08-2011 12:16 PM ET (US) I'd want to hook it up to the muffs and run it for a couple of minutes every so often. That way, you stay more in touch with it, maybe get some visceral or vicarious pleasure out of it, and most importantly, you KNOW it will start when you are ready for your first outing of the season. I understand why winterizing is better than just stopping useage suddenly, for the season... BUT I lay even money that starting it and running it on the muffs every so often is at least as good if not better than sitting, winterized. -Peter
Sourpuss1	posted 10-08-2011 07:58 PM ET (US) I would love to start and run my outboard during the winter, but the garden hose would freeze up!
tom976	posted 10-08-2011 11:23 PM ET (US) One thing to remember is to NOT and I mean NOT use the plastic straw that comes with carb cleaner or even fogging spray. If it lets loose when the motor is running or when you are spraying oil into the cylinders, you are screwed. (happened to me once when spraying the cylinders. I went bloop, right in and wasnt coming out. Had to take the head off etc to remove it. 5 minute job took much longer than expected. As for fogging the motor. Yes, you run it and spray the fogging oil into it until it stalls. If you have multiple carbs, that can be more of a problem. In that case I would spray a bunch in and have someone else manually shut off the motor. Taking the plugs out and spraying a bit in with the cylinder in the lowest position. Tighten the plugs hand tight and leave it for replacement in the spring. Its also a good time to take a look at the plugs and make sure they are colored the same and in decent condition. Spraying down the motor with a light oil protectant will ensure it look like new year after year.
Langella7	posted 10-08-2011 11:33 PM ET (US) Thanks everyone, got all the supplies today and plan on doing it Monday. As for greasing all the pivot points and steering rod, to I use regular grease that would come with grease gun at west marine?
martyn1075	posted 10-08-2011 11:48 PM ET (US) tom976.. What brand oil protectant do you use? Is this the same as Quicksilver rust inhibitor?
kwik_wurk	posted 10-09-2011 01:56 PM ET (US) I would check your grease to make sure you don't have trailer wheel bearing grease in the gun. (If so, grease your bearings, and make sure you turn the bearings a bit by either jacking the tire and spinning it or moving the trailer.) There is specific marine grease to use on pivot points (it will hold up better with water and salt). One thing I always do is get a new clean grease on the steering tube and then store the engine turned hard to PORT, this will retract the steering arm all the way into the tube. One thing I do suggest is to get an aerosol corrosion block to spray on the motor. (If you boat in the salt, this takes on more significance.)
Buckda	posted 10-09-2011 04:31 PM ET (US) My procedure: 1) ADD an appropriate dose of stabilizer to the fuel tank. 2) RUN the motor(s) until it is fully warmed up 3) FOG the motor via the carburator or the schraeder valve. I usually go ahead and kill the motor in mid-fog. 4) PULL the spark plugs. Add fogging oil to cylinders, rotate flywheel by hand a few times, add fogging oil, close up cylinders (replace plugs). 5) CLEAN powerhead with a gentle cleanser and a clean rag. 6) INSPECT powerhead, hoses, wires, etc. for cracks, loose ends, spills, etc. Address any of these problems right away. 7) COAT powerhead with a light mist of silicone spray. I like to wipe the silicone spray on all the rubber/plastic components as well, and then I close up the cowling. 8) DRAIN lower unit oil, inspect for signs of metal shavings or water 9) REMOVE Propeller while lower unit oil is draining, lubricate propeller shaft and splines; inspect propeller shaft seal; replace propeller (if you're storing your boat in a public space, consider keeping the prop at home so you don't entice a would-be thief). 10) REFILL lower unit oil, replace gasket on drain fitting and clean up the lower unit exterior 11) INSPECT outboard - check your zincs and your paint for signs of wear, damage, etc. Repair/repaint/replace as needed. 12) Lubricate your steering arm and any other zerk fittings on the outboard 13) CLEAN AND WAX outboard and cowling in preparation for storage (and so you don't have to do this in the spring). I usually take most of a Saturday morning to do this to all of my outboards (currently, I have three and I take care of my brother's). It's worth every minute. Two of my outboards are 39 years old and run like tops.
southshore fisherman	posted 10-10-2011 08:54 AM ET (US) I have read here that many outboard owners like to run the fuel out of the fuel line and motor when it's not going to be used in the immediate future. How do you do this when fogging through the carbs kills the engine before the fuel is burnt? I'm getting ready to winterize for the first time in a long time and never had the ethanol problem in the past. I do run the fuel out of my fuel line before I put the boat on the trailer but am not sure how to do this and fog the engine. John
jimh	posted 10-11-2011 12:27 AM ET (US) In the REFERENCE section there is an excellent procedure for winterization of older carburetor motors. See http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/winterizeOMC.html