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Author Topic:   Montauk 17 Trailer

OPH posted 11-11-2011 12:03 PM ET (US)
I am looking at Montauk 17 that sits on a five-year-old [galvanized-steel] trailer. The boat is in good shape, but the trailer's brackets, hubs and axle are really rusted for their age. I am not a subject matter expert, so hoping for any insight and thoughts on:
--generally and typically how roadworthy are these trailers after five years when showing a lot of rust like this? I am wishing now that I had spent more time really looking at the trailer. Generally I did not see any holes but rust appears to be pretty deep and way more than light surface rust. I want to pull this 150-miles each way a few times [each] year and was hoping to get a few years out of it.
--if I wanted to replace [this rusted trailer] with essentially the same stock trailer, what would be a good price target? And does anyone have any recommendations on where to price or buy one? I am in North Carolina. I may consider upgrading to aluminum, but for purposes, here, really looking at how much it would be to replace the galvanized-steel Boston Whaler trailer with a new version of the same. I may want to consider factoring that into pricing discussions with seller. Thanks for any thoughts!--OPH
jschmidt63 posted 11-11-2011 01:23 PM ET (US)
OPH--If the trailer components are showing rust you never know when one may fail. I purchased a [KATAMA] in 2006 from Smithfield, Virginia, with a [unclear] trailer of unknown age. On the way home--190 miles--one of the rusted bunk brackets broke. I then spent the past several years upgrading parts and new bearing buddies. I finally said "forget it" when I noticed that many bolts were rusted and frozen.
I bought a E-Z-LOADER EZL 90 rated for 2,100-lbs this year form Ace Marine of Stuarts Draft, Virgina--a little more then I required but I wanted a solid trailer. Cost without guides was about $1,800. Since I trailer a minimum of one-hour one-way, the piece of mind from the new trailer is well worth [the $1,800 cost]. I believe the supplier for this shop is from eastern Virginia. Best of luck on your decision.--John
L H G posted 11-11-2011 03:42 PM ET (US)
In my (not very) humble opinion, this is the best trailer you can buy for a Montauk, anywhere. It is a Continental galvanized steel tilt-frame keel-roller, model CV-7. Cost, with the Stoltz keel rollers and ss shafts, was less than $1400.

Since you are in North Carolina, you can run down to Jacksonville and pick up one of these. They are only sold in Florida. The frame is all welded channel steel, eliminating bolted connections which will always flex, squeak and rust. Lauching and retrieval are extremely easy with this trailer. These trailers come with hot-dipped galvanized bolts, but when they start to show rust, I always replace with stainless steel bolts.
I have a similar 22-year-old Continental trailer under my 25 Outrage, extensively used in salt each winter, and with no rust.
OPH posted 11-11-2011 03:57 PM ET (US)
L H G- Thanks on the trailer advice. I checked out the pics, that is a sweet (sweet, sweet, SWEEET) Montauk 79. WOW, you did an amazing job with that.Gotta love your tow vehicle there too.... ;-)--OPH
L H G posted 11-12-2011 02:23 AM ET (US)
Thank you very much, OPH! Best of luck to you in finding a nice Montauk.
barnacle posted 11-14-2011 05:22 PM ET (US)
I know we are not talking about a 17 [and wants to change TOPIC to talk about trailers for much larger Boston Whaler boats with Whaler Drives. Please start a new thread for that topic.--jimh]
ocean31 posted 11-17-2011 09:00 AM ET (US)
LHG:
Do you have any more specfic information on dealer for the trailer from Jacksonville?
I am over in the Panhandle, Jacksonville is about a 5 hour drive for me, but I need a new trailer for my 13, and my Katama could use a better trailer.
Thanks
jsb
Tohsgib posted 11-17-2011 11:07 AM ET (US)
Do NOT buy a Continental trailer. They were great 22 years ago, they are abxsolute junk now. My buds 2001 is going to the scrap yard next week. Buy aluminum or go home....they can't rust.
Tohsgib posted 11-17-2011 12:40 PM ET (US)
PS...that does not include their aluminum trailers.
OPH posted 11-18-2011 10:47 AM ET (US)
Just FYI for anyone evaluating trailer options, below is paste 'Choosing the Right Trailer For Your BW' directly from BW web site:
Depending on the size of your boat and the conditions in which you launch and retrieve, there are two styles of trailers:

1) Float-on bunk style trailer - Bunks should be as long as possible and conform to the shape of the hull to provide good fore and aft support to spread the total weight. For larger/heavier models, you may want to look into two sets of bunks. One set to cradle the keel and another further out for support. Keel rollers or guards can be used on the trailer cross members to provide additional support or protection. A float-on trailer is easier to maintain and works best in boat ramps with deeper water.

2) Keel roller trailer - Keel rollers must be adjusted so that they support the keel and bear ALL THE WEIGHT of the boat. Side bunks should be used to balance the weight on the keel rollers. A keel roller trailer works best in shallow water ramps.

Boston Whaler does NOT recommend using an all roller trailer. Side rollers can cause a ripple effect on the fiberglass. This can disrupt the bond between the fiberglass and the foam core, causing potential hull problems.

Nothing will discourage a new boat owner faster than an improperly set-up trailer. Therefore, we recommend a careful check of the trailer to ensure that it is set up properly to the boat. Tongue weight should be between 5-7% of the total weight of the tow (boat, motor, contents and trailer). If you have more weight than this, then the front end of your vehicle lifts up and the rear squats, making the vehicle hard to handle. If you have less weight than this, then the trailer is more likely to fishtail.

The winch stand should be adjusted so that the bow stop is located just above the bow eye with the winch cable passing just below it. Locating the stop in this manner allows straight pull and provides security in a panic stop, preventing the boat from riding up and over the trunk of the car.

You should avoid overrating or underrating the trailer for the boat. Your local Boston Whaler dealer should have an updated weight on your boat, motor and contents.
Tohsgib posted 11-18-2011 01:53 PM ET (US)
You can tell how long ago that was written..."Locating the stop in this manner allows straight pull and provides security in a panic stop, preventing the boat from riding up and over the trunk of the car." Ther are not many cars today that can tow the smallest of Whalers.
OPH...have the trailer fixed, 5 years old is not old.
Phil T posted 11-18-2011 03:27 PM ET (US)
My 2003 Loadrite galvanized trailer shows rust on the U bolts and the Shurlube (like bearing buddies) fittings. I trailer to the ocean.
Rust on fasteners is no big deal for a trailer that young.
I would replace the tires if original and enjoy the boat.
If you don't feel safe, replace the bunk, keel roller brackets and U bolts and nuts. ~ $200 in hardware is alot less that $2-3k for a new trailer.
contender posted 11-18-2011 04:20 PM ET (US)
Tohsgib, Phil are correct: 5 year old trailer is nothing, get it fixed, even if you replace everything it still would be a lot cheaper than purchasing a new trailer (unless the frame is bad, bent). I also use a galvanize turnbuckle on the bow eye that is attached to the trailer at a perpendicular angle, keeps the boat tight to the bow roller and does not let it bounce.
L H G posted 11-21-2011 08:29 AM ET (US)

Well, since Nick has all the answers, I guess there's no need to contribute further to this one. Take a look at my boats and decide if I know anything about Whalers and trailers needed to tow them around.
Tohsgib posted 11-21-2011 02:11 PM ET (US)
Larry for the 10th time over the last many years....your trailers are older than me. That is when Continental made a good/great galv trailer. Today I think they are junk, their aluminum however are nice but I would buy Loadmaster instead. My friend is a Conti dealer, I think I know what I am talking about. He only buys the $600 small ones for his little skiffs he makes/sells. For that price they are nice.
barnacle posted 11-23-2011 10:21 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the aluminum advice. [Changed TOPIC to talk about larger trailers for Boston Whaler boats with Whaler Drives. Please start a new thread for that topic.--jimh]
Tohsgib posted 11-24-2011 09:30 PM ET (US)
When I had my Loadmaster done for my Montauk in 2003 I had them cut the bunks to the right angle and also make them 4" shorter so the boat sat lower and custom decals with a Whaler harpoon done instead if theirs. Call Loadmaster in Brandon. FL.
pete r posted 11-25-2011 04:44 AM ET (US)
You guys have got so good with new trailers.
Your aluminium trailers are great value.
When you have a foam core boat you should dunk your trailer and float the your off.
Fresh waters are not an issue, however if you dealing with salt water, then even an immediate hose down will not guarantee you have removed the corrosive salt from concealed welded sections of the main trailer frame. All can look good externally but there may be no more than a match stick thickness of steel supporting your pride and joy.
With an aluminium trailer, corrosion of the main frame structure is eliminated. The only worry lies with the bogie.
still made in galvanised steel for economic reasons.
Not all bad because these parts are common with road trailers so they are less costly to replace.

To think it wasn't that long ago when we didn't galvanize boat trailers.
barnacle posted 11-25-2011 11:36 PM ET (US)
[Again wants to change the topic to talk about trailers for larger Boston Whaler boats with Whaler Drives. Please start a new thread for that topic--jimh]

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Author	Topic: Montauk 17 Trailer
OPH	posted 11-11-2011 12:03 PM ET (US) I am looking at Montauk 17 that sits on a five-year-old [galvanized-steel] trailer. The boat is in good shape, but the trailer's brackets, hubs and axle are really rusted for their age. I am not a subject matter expert, so hoping for any insight and thoughts on: --generally and typically how roadworthy are these trailers after five years when showing a lot of rust like this? I am wishing now that I had spent more time really looking at the trailer. Generally I did not see any holes but rust appears to be pretty deep and way more than light surface rust. I want to pull this 150-miles each way a few times [each] year and was hoping to get a few years out of it. --if I wanted to replace [this rusted trailer] with essentially the same stock trailer, what would be a good price target? And does anyone have any recommendations on where to price or buy one? I am in North Carolina. I may consider upgrading to aluminum, but for purposes, here, really looking at how much it would be to replace the galvanized-steel Boston Whaler trailer with a new version of the same. I may want to consider factoring that into pricing discussions with seller. Thanks for any thoughts!--OPH
jschmidt63	posted 11-11-2011 01:23 PM ET (US) OPH--If the trailer components are showing rust you never know when one may fail. I purchased a [KATAMA] in 2006 from Smithfield, Virginia, with a [unclear] trailer of unknown age. On the way home--190 miles--one of the rusted bunk brackets broke. I then spent the past several years upgrading parts and new bearing buddies. I finally said "forget it" when I noticed that many bolts were rusted and frozen. I bought a E-Z-LOADER EZL 90 rated for 2,100-lbs this year form Ace Marine of Stuarts Draft, Virgina--a little more then I required but I wanted a solid trailer. Cost without guides was about $1,800. Since I trailer a minimum of one-hour one-way, the piece of mind from the new trailer is well worth [the $1,800 cost]. I believe the supplier for this shop is from eastern Virginia. Best of luck on your decision.--John
L H G	posted 11-11-2011 03:42 PM ET (US) In my (not very) humble opinion, this is the best trailer you can buy for a Montauk, anywhere. It is a Continental galvanized steel tilt-frame keel-roller, model CV-7. Cost, with the Stoltz keel rollers and ss shafts, was less than $1400. Since you are in North Carolina, you can run down to Jacksonville and pick up one of these. They are only sold in Florida. The frame is all welded channel steel, eliminating bolted connections which will always flex, squeak and rust. Lauching and retrieval are extremely easy with this trailer. These trailers come with hot-dipped galvanized bolts, but when they start to show rust, I always replace with stainless steel bolts. I have a similar 22-year-old Continental trailer under my 25 Outrage, extensively used in salt each winter, and with no rust.
OPH	posted 11-11-2011 03:57 PM ET (US) L H G- Thanks on the trailer advice. I checked out the pics, that is a sweet (sweet, sweet, SWEEET) Montauk 79. WOW, you did an amazing job with that.Gotta love your tow vehicle there too.... ;-)--OPH
L H G	posted 11-12-2011 02:23 AM ET (US) Thank you very much, OPH! Best of luck to you in finding a nice Montauk.
barnacle	posted 11-14-2011 05:22 PM ET (US) I know we are not talking about a 17 [and wants to change TOPIC to talk about trailers for much larger Boston Whaler boats with Whaler Drives. Please start a new thread for that topic.--jimh]
ocean31	posted 11-17-2011 09:00 AM ET (US) LHG: Do you have any more specfic information on dealer for the trailer from Jacksonville? I am over in the Panhandle, Jacksonville is about a 5 hour drive for me, but I need a new trailer for my 13, and my Katama could use a better trailer. Thanks jsb
Tohsgib	posted 11-17-2011 11:07 AM ET (US) Do NOT buy a Continental trailer. They were great 22 years ago, they are abxsolute junk now. My buds 2001 is going to the scrap yard next week. Buy aluminum or go home....they can't rust.
Tohsgib	posted 11-17-2011 12:40 PM ET (US) PS...that does not include their aluminum trailers.
OPH	posted 11-18-2011 10:47 AM ET (US) Just FYI for anyone evaluating trailer options, below is paste 'Choosing the Right Trailer For Your BW' directly from BW web site: Depending on the size of your boat and the conditions in which you launch and retrieve, there are two styles of trailers: 1) Float-on bunk style trailer - Bunks should be as long as possible and conform to the shape of the hull to provide good fore and aft support to spread the total weight. For larger/heavier models, you may want to look into two sets of bunks. One set to cradle the keel and another further out for support. Keel rollers or guards can be used on the trailer cross members to provide additional support or protection. A float-on trailer is easier to maintain and works best in boat ramps with deeper water. 2) Keel roller trailer - Keel rollers must be adjusted so that they support the keel and bear ALL THE WEIGHT of the boat. Side bunks should be used to balance the weight on the keel rollers. A keel roller trailer works best in shallow water ramps. Boston Whaler does NOT recommend using an all roller trailer. Side rollers can cause a ripple effect on the fiberglass. This can disrupt the bond between the fiberglass and the foam core, causing potential hull problems. Nothing will discourage a new boat owner faster than an improperly set-up trailer. Therefore, we recommend a careful check of the trailer to ensure that it is set up properly to the boat. Tongue weight should be between 5-7% of the total weight of the tow (boat, motor, contents and trailer). If you have more weight than this, then the front end of your vehicle lifts up and the rear squats, making the vehicle hard to handle. If you have less weight than this, then the trailer is more likely to fishtail. The winch stand should be adjusted so that the bow stop is located just above the bow eye with the winch cable passing just below it. Locating the stop in this manner allows straight pull and provides security in a panic stop, preventing the boat from riding up and over the trunk of the car. You should avoid overrating or underrating the trailer for the boat. Your local Boston Whaler dealer should have an updated weight on your boat, motor and contents.
Tohsgib	posted 11-18-2011 01:53 PM ET (US) You can tell how long ago that was written..."Locating the stop in this manner allows straight pull and provides security in a panic stop, preventing the boat from riding up and over the trunk of the car." Ther are not many cars today that can tow the smallest of Whalers. OPH...have the trailer fixed, 5 years old is not old.
Phil T	posted 11-18-2011 03:27 PM ET (US) My 2003 Loadrite galvanized trailer shows rust on the U bolts and the Shurlube (like bearing buddies) fittings. I trailer to the ocean. Rust on fasteners is no big deal for a trailer that young. I would replace the tires if original and enjoy the boat. If you don't feel safe, replace the bunk, keel roller brackets and U bolts and nuts. ~ $200 in hardware is alot less that $2-3k for a new trailer.
contender	posted 11-18-2011 04:20 PM ET (US) Tohsgib, Phil are correct: 5 year old trailer is nothing, get it fixed, even if you replace everything it still would be a lot cheaper than purchasing a new trailer (unless the frame is bad, bent). I also use a galvanize turnbuckle on the bow eye that is attached to the trailer at a perpendicular angle, keeps the boat tight to the bow roller and does not let it bounce.
L H G	posted 11-21-2011 08:29 AM ET (US) Well, since Nick has all the answers, I guess there's no need to contribute further to this one. Take a look at my boats and decide if I know anything about Whalers and trailers needed to tow them around.
Tohsgib	posted 11-21-2011 02:11 PM ET (US) Larry for the 10th time over the last many years....your trailers are older than me. That is when Continental made a good/great galv trailer. Today I think they are junk, their aluminum however are nice but I would buy Loadmaster instead. My friend is a Conti dealer, I think I know what I am talking about. He only buys the $600 small ones for his little skiffs he makes/sells. For that price they are nice.
barnacle	posted 11-23-2011 10:21 PM ET (US) Thanks for the aluminum advice. [Changed TOPIC to talk about larger trailers for Boston Whaler boats with Whaler Drives. Please start a new thread for that topic.--jimh]
Tohsgib	posted 11-24-2011 09:30 PM ET (US) When I had my Loadmaster done for my Montauk in 2003 I had them cut the bunks to the right angle and also make them 4" shorter so the boat sat lower and custom decals with a Whaler harpoon done instead if theirs. Call Loadmaster in Brandon. FL.
pete r	posted 11-25-2011 04:44 AM ET (US) You guys have got so good with new trailers. Your aluminium trailers are great value. When you have a foam core boat you should dunk your trailer and float the your off. Fresh waters are not an issue, however if you dealing with salt water, then even an immediate hose down will not guarantee you have removed the corrosive salt from concealed welded sections of the main trailer frame. All can look good externally but there may be no more than a match stick thickness of steel supporting your pride and joy. With an aluminium trailer, corrosion of the main frame structure is eliminated. The only worry lies with the bogie. still made in galvanised steel for economic reasons. Not all bad because these parts are common with road trailers so they are less costly to replace. To think it wasn't that long ago when we didn't galvanize boat trailers.
barnacle	posted 11-25-2011 11:36 PM ET (US) [Again wants to change the topic to talk about trailers for larger Boston Whaler boats with Whaler Drives. Please start a new thread for that topic--jimh]