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  Need advice on motor/boat inspection.

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Author Topic:   Need advice on motor/boat inspection.
mw011i posted 07-03-2009 05:29 PM ET (US)   Profile for mw011i   Send Email to mw011i  
I'm looking at a 2001 Dauntless 16 with a 115 Merc tomorrow, and seriously considering buying it. Would you guys advise taking it to a mechanic after the test ride to have a compression test and any other diagnostic checks on the motor before buying? If so, what should I expect to pay for such a test. Finally, if any of you could recommend a mechanic or shop on the Mid Cape [Cod], I would appreciate any advice.
New 2 Whalers posted 07-03-2009 07:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for New 2 Whalers  Send Email to New 2 Whalers     
Most shops in this area of Florida charge between 50 and 100 dollars representing one hour worth of labor which is about what it should take to do a preliminary inspection.
John McBride posted 07-03-2009 10:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for John McBride  Send Email to John McBride     
Spend $30 on a compression guage and a plud wrench and check the compression before the ride. It is probably fine given the age. The tools will save you thousands over a lifetime!

Look the boat over for dings and you should be good to go.

One caveat, the 2001 has a notched transom underneath (where the drain plug goes in from the outside) and this notch lessens the displacement of the hull where you need the bouyancy to support the motor. I had the same boat with the 90 and I found that the stern squatted at rest enough for the cockpit to have some water enter through the scuppers and it was like standing in a pudddle. This is OK in Florida but you may live in a different climate.

You may care to tow it as I found it was very heavy boat compared to my 1964 16' Boston Whaler.

Otherwise, I would not buy another D 160 without the 115 HP motor as there were times that the 90 was underpowered. I tend to load the seats with people and the boat needs the umph in those situations.

I have to say, I loved the boat and I will probably buy another someday. It is the Swiss Army Knife of boats.

mw011i posted 07-04-2009 09:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for mw011i  Send Email to mw011i     
Thanks! This advice is most helpful!
RM NY posted 07-04-2009 11:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for RM NY  Send Email to RM NY     
compression gauge is nice, but anytime a engine can be plugged in and scanned it is better to get the full history of the engine.
It tells what RPM range the engine was run at, how many hours at each range, what alarms have been going off such as low oil or overheating, etc. A dealer will also be able to tell you the warranty history of the engine.

modenacart posted 07-04-2009 11:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for modenacart  Send Email to modenacart     
Make sure you take off the cowl and run the engine. Look for water leaks and fuel leaks. I missed a water leak on the boat I bought and it cost me 1500 to put on a rebuilt head because it turned out to be a crack in the block. It was only a slight drip but the crack ended up going pretty far back.
John McBride posted 07-04-2009 11:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for John McBride  Send Email to John McBride     
Raybo Marine in NY makes a great point! I'm too old school sometimes. Also, I would characterize any advice, free or otherwise, that you get from him should be followed very closely; he is THE MASTER.
home Aside posted 07-05-2009 11:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for home Aside  Send Email to home Aside     
Here is a link for a download re: whaler inspection document that Jeff Rohlfing put together, very helpful

http://www.whalercentral.com/downloads.php?cat_id=15

Pat

home Aside posted 07-05-2009 11:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for home Aside  Send Email to home Aside     
I know your main question was in regards to the engine, but it is also important to inspect the hull & it's components as well

Pat

RM NY posted 07-05-2009 02:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for RM NY  Send Email to RM NY     
Easy, im not a engine master!
I just know that the new engines can tell thier story be it good or bad.

Compression and visually inspecting are one thing, but the computer, if so equipped, tells all. You also may not need a dealer to get the engine scanned.

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