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Author Topic:   Economy 13' / 15' sport interior $329

nauticallumber posted 02-08-2010 02:13 PM ET (US)
NEW PRODUCT:
Economy Custom Sport Interior made of Hydrotek Bs1088 plywood (Meranti face & core). We listened to our customer base & manufactured an interior that address' many of the concerns & comfort of our clients.
First we made it more affordable by useing top grade marine plywood. Next, we lenghtened the interior by 3 inches to to create more leg room between the helm & the rear thwart seat for the captain. 3rd change:We installed the rear thwart seat on the top of the side clamps for comfort/leg room and to allow space for the instalation of a gas tank. 4th change: 31" sport console insted of the 16". 5th change: 8" tall back rest for added comfort for the captain & passanger. The front Hatch is included too!
Kit Includes:
Un -Finished & un-assebled
2 seats (1 3/26" thick)
2 side clamps
1 console with cleat
1 Back rest
1 Front hatch
Ebay auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320485761881&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT
If you have questions, post here or email me at: Mike@NauticalLumber.com
Regards,
Mike

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Stennett
Nautical Lumber Co.
....to become a leader you must first know how to serve.

dscew posted 02-08-2010 09:31 PM ET (US)
How thick are those thwart seats (they look thicker than the Boston Whaler spec of one inch) and how many plies are they? I've seen Meranti 3/4" plywood with 18 plies. Strong stuff.
dscew posted 02-08-2010 09:32 PM ET (US)
Whoops, never mind on the seat thickness, I just saw it.
nauticallumber posted 02-09-2010 08:18 AM ET (US)
...There are 11 plies per 18mm (just under 3/4"), making the seats 22ply. .... 2- 11 ply panels epoxied together. You could park a truck on the seats!
Mike
nauticallumber posted 02-18-2010 11:07 AM ET (US)
... thanks for your orders! 3 interiors sold!
Mike
Nautical Lumber Co
586-777-1288
eedork posted 02-18-2010 06:30 PM ET (US)
These interiors look great!
Are they finished? If so, what do you use?
Thanks!
-Matt
where2 posted 02-18-2010 10:20 PM ET (US)
To the question: Are They Finished?
please Re-Read the post:
[B]Kit Includes: Un -Finished & un-assebled...[B]
I always take that condition to mean, you the buyer are free to finish the product in any material you see fit. Mink, Leopard patterned Lycra, Leather, Latex Paint, maybe even 14 coats of Polyurethane, you name it.
R T M posted 02-18-2010 10:59 PM ET (US)
That plywood console leg that is cleated to the floor in such a way that the plywood is in contact to the boat floor that is wet most of the time is a big NO-NO in boat building. Even if the endgrain that touches the floor is epoxied, the plywood leg will suck up water and rot in no time. The early Nauset consoles were built in such a manner and they all rotted quickly. The cleat that screws the console leg to the floor should be a RABBITED PEICE OF SOLID MAHOGANY made so the plywood leg will not touch the floor. The leg should be screwed through its side into the solid mahogany, and then the cleat would be screwed down into the floor. What were you thinking? It wouldn`t take any more material to do this, and about 5 minutes more of saw time. BTW, I hope the cleat you supply isn`t plywood too.
This is something that the uninformed might not realize until the leg rots out, but now they know. Better retrofit.
Just looking after the members.
rich/Binkie
Jeff posted 02-18-2010 11:30 PM ET (US)

quote:
Just looking after the members.
Really Rich, or are you just trying to steer another thread off into the wasteland of pettiness?
The price in this kit comes down to material costs and yields not saw time. It comes unfinished and in the images it is just cut, routed and sanded. When it comes down to it, as stated, this is a super saver kit. Period. If properly vanished will look good and last many years without any worries. If epoxy sealed it should last a very long time. Put a nice dark red stain on it before sealing it and it will have a real rich look for little money.
Growing up I had an Achilles inflatable that my father built a one piece floor for. He used this same plywood and we never put more than a simple coating of poly on it. That boat sat in the water for 5 summers and it always had water in it so, the floor was always wet. After those 5 years we sold it and bought our first Whaler. That Achilles then went to a family friend and he still has it and the floor....it is now 23 years old and still solid. He has refinished the floor at least once.
eedork posted 02-19-2010 07:08 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply. I obviously missed the part about the kit being unfinished.
I do have another question. With the rear seat on top of the clamps, is there any concern about weight and vibration stripping the screws that hold the clamps to the hull? When the seat is mounted the traditional way, there is a lot less force acting on the clamps (I imagine).
I will be picking up an interior at some point, and am trying to figure out if I'm better off just putting a cushion on a seat mounted below the clamp.
Thanks!
-Matt
R T M posted 02-19-2010 08:05 AM ET (US)
Jeff sezz,
Really Rich, or are you just trying to steer another thread off into the wasteland of pettiness?
The price in this kit comes down to material costs and yields not saw time. It comes unfinished.
Nothing of the sort, Jeff, Its just lack of forethought from the builder. A simple rabbited mahogany cleat would not add any cost to the project. The plywood floorboards in your fathers inflatable were removable so that is not a good comparison. What is a good comparison is to check out an old Nauset console, one of the early ones where the plywood sides were directly attached to the floor. Usually the bottom four inches or so are rotted. Why would someone build somthing with an inherent flaw in it when it could be very easily remedied.
As far as building a product with the sole intention of recovering the cost of materials is nonsence. I don`t know what the cost of the plywood is, but if building in mahogany (sapele) which is what everyone uses nowadays and is a beautiful wood, it takes 28 board feet of mahogany to build an interior for a 13 footer, and Sapele costs $5.00 a board ft. Do the math, that`s $140. This interior has a 6" seat back which would add another 2.5 board ft. or $13
It may take 3 or 4 years before the wood under the varnish starts to turn black, and another couple of years for the rot to start at the floor level on the console leg.
Yes, I`m looking out for the members, and your just covering up for a personal friend.
rich
Jeff posted 02-19-2010 11:32 AM ET (US)
Rich,
I am not trying to cover for anything. I am just calling a Spade a Spade. The kit is meant to be a cheap alternative to a solid wood kit. Though it does provide a lot of features the standard solid wood kit does not. Trade offs are trade offs. While you may think "building a product with the sole intention of recovering the cost of materials is [nonsense]." Maybe you do not know what Mike has in stock in his shop and is needing to move. If he has a bunch of quality marine plywood sitting around as overhead why not find a use for it and test a new offering / design. This reduces overhead and provides a source of income. The keys to keeping a business moving forward and above water.
Lets face it. With all of the pretty bicker and name calling engaged upon by all parties, your first post in this thread reads as a thinly veiled direct attempt to stoke those coals again. Mike did in fact retaliate back after you proceeded in derailing and utterly defacing a thread he started in honor and living memory of a CW member who passed. That may not have been the best tactic and yes, two wrongs do not make a right.
That said, I do give Mike a lot of credit for his business and his products. He jumped in and started a small business from scratch that he passionate about in one of the worst economic times that is country, not to mention the local Detroit region has ever seen. I personally like supporting local businesses that provide good products and outstanding service. Because of this, I have grown to know Mike and his business over the past almost 2 years. If you label that being a personal friend of mine, ok. To me the definition of a "personal friend" may be a little different but, none the less I do endorse and support his work. I also would like to see his business succeed for may reasons.
Like Jimh always says (in so many words) If you do not like it, or think you can do a better job, have at it. It is easy to knock this or that while sitting behind a keyboard. Putting your money where your mouth is another story.
R T M posted 02-19-2010 01:12 PM ET (US)
Not trying to knock anyone or their business, or retaliate as you mentioned, just pointing out a simple defect that will cause problems down the road, and a simple remedy for that defect. there is not a single woodworker in the world that will disagree with me, (end grain of plywood does not belong in permanent contact with a surface that will be wet and dry over and over again). No big deal to fix.
There is nothing wrong with plywood for this use, as a boat interior, and in fact I think the interior looks very good.
I built a 13 foot interior a couple or three years ago out of cypress which is an indestructible wood that doesn`t rot or even need a finish as it greys out and looks similar to teak. I left it out in the Florida sun and rain for six months, and the wood looked unsatisfactory to me for use on a Whaler so I gave the interior away to a member here. I thought is would a good way to produce an inexpensive Whaler interior. Live and learn.
rich
nauticallumber posted 02-19-2010 03:55 PM ET (US)
to whom it may concern.....
the cleat that is attached to the console & deck is made of mahogany.
If you were to apply 2 coats of epoxy to this interior (including the leg) and apply 3 coats of varnish over the top, it will last for the life of the boat if you maintain it properly.

Mike
R T M posted 02-19-2010 04:34 PM ET (US)
Good luck with that fix. Covering the endgrain with a finish that will eventually deteriorate didn`t work on the old Nauset consoles. Epoxy and varnish will not hold up in a constantly wet environment.
rich
nauticallumber posted 02-19-2010 05:15 PM ET (US)
Rich,
Todays marine plywoods and Epoxy resins are much more advanced then when they manufactured the consoles in the 60's & early 70's.
Professional Boat builders use these materials to manufacture their frames, laminate stringers, and build kit boats. They use Epoxy with & without fiberglass to encapsulate the plywood & hardwood to prevent moisture & water from penatrating their hulls which are directly in the water. This isn't something I made up last weekend.
When you make blanket statements like:
"Good luck with that fix. Covering the endgrain with a finish that will eventually deteriorate didn`t work on the old Nauset consoles. Epoxy and varnish will not hold up in a constantly wet environment" ..Rich/Binki
It really shows you're lack of experiece in this area and how you need to be the center of attention. Just beccause you're a retired home builder and have built a coouple of interiors hardly make you an authority to follow.
People may read your posts but its strictly for entertainment purposes.
Mike
R T M posted 02-19-2010 08:41 PM ET (US)
Mike, well we will see over time whether modern adhesives and coatings really allow you to cut some corners. Personally, I wouldn`t take the chance, being that doing things the right(old) way, take so little more time and costs little. Personally I think this website has become more entertainment oriented, this winter, Not a whole lot going on, but maybe that's why we tune in.
BTW, I`m thinking of building a stitch and glue race boat. Now that`s not old school. (no frames)
rich

dscew posted 02-19-2010 09:52 PM ET (US)
All wood exposed to harsh marine environments needs protection. End grain from solid planks is really no different from end grains in plywood, although the types of wood are probably different--they'll all wick water into them. I don't know why Mike's econo-interiors couldn't last a good long time with occasional inpection and routine maintenance. I do agree that's its a good idea to keep the console leg off of the floor 1/8 inch.
L H G posted 02-20-2010 04:03 AM ET (US)
Since this post is an ad in Marketplace, I always thought it was in extremely poor taste to trash someone's item for sale, pricing, etc.
Mike provides a great service to Whaler owners, and doesn't deserve to have his ad and product trashed in Marketplace. No one else does, either. If you don't like the product being advertized, keep it to yourself.
dscew posted 02-20-2010 07:06 AM ET (US)
I'd like an aft thwart seat made out of this double thickness Meranti plywood for my Katama. Mike, would this still require a center support, the span is the same as it would be for an Eastport, width is 12.5 inches.
R T M posted 02-20-2010 07:18 AM ET (US)
OK, Larry, I agree with you, its buyer beware from now on.
rich

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Author	Topic: Economy 13' / 15' sport interior $329
nauticallumber	posted 02-08-2010 02:13 PM ET (US) NEW PRODUCT: Economy Custom Sport Interior made of Hydrotek Bs1088 plywood (Meranti face & core). We listened to our customer base & manufactured an interior that address' many of the concerns & comfort of our clients. First we made it more affordable by useing top grade marine plywood. Next, we lenghtened the interior by 3 inches to to create more leg room between the helm & the rear thwart seat for the captain. 3rd change:We installed the rear thwart seat on the top of the side clamps for comfort/leg room and to allow space for the instalation of a gas tank. 4th change: 31" sport console insted of the 16". 5th change: 8" tall back rest for added comfort for the captain & passanger. The front Hatch is included too! Kit Includes: Un -Finished & un-assebled 2 seats (1 3/26" thick) 2 side clamps 1 console with cleat 1 Back rest 1 Front hatch Ebay auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320485761881&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT If you have questions, post here or email me at: Mike@NauticalLumber.com Regards, Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mike Stennett Nautical Lumber Co. ....to become a leader you must first know how to serve.
dscew	posted 02-08-2010 09:31 PM ET (US) How thick are those thwart seats (they look thicker than the Boston Whaler spec of one inch) and how many plies are they? I've seen Meranti 3/4" plywood with 18 plies. Strong stuff.
dscew	posted 02-08-2010 09:32 PM ET (US) Whoops, never mind on the seat thickness, I just saw it.
nauticallumber	posted 02-09-2010 08:18 AM ET (US) ...There are 11 plies per 18mm (just under 3/4"), making the seats 22ply. .... 2- 11 ply panels epoxied together. You could park a truck on the seats! Mike
nauticallumber	posted 02-18-2010 11:07 AM ET (US) ... thanks for your orders! 3 interiors sold! Mike Nautical Lumber Co 586-777-1288
eedork	posted 02-18-2010 06:30 PM ET (US) These interiors look great! Are they finished? If so, what do you use? Thanks! -Matt
where2	posted 02-18-2010 10:20 PM ET (US) To the question: Are They Finished? please Re-Read the post: [B]Kit Includes: Un -Finished & un-assebled...[B] I always take that condition to mean, you the buyer are free to finish the product in any material you see fit. Mink, Leopard patterned Lycra, Leather, Latex Paint, maybe even 14 coats of Polyurethane, you name it.
R T M	posted 02-18-2010 10:59 PM ET (US) That plywood console leg that is cleated to the floor in such a way that the plywood is in contact to the boat floor that is wet most of the time is a big NO-NO in boat building. Even if the endgrain that touches the floor is epoxied, the plywood leg will suck up water and rot in no time. The early Nauset consoles were built in such a manner and they all rotted quickly. The cleat that screws the console leg to the floor should be a RABBITED PEICE OF SOLID MAHOGANY made so the plywood leg will not touch the floor. The leg should be screwed through its side into the solid mahogany, and then the cleat would be screwed down into the floor. What were you thinking? It wouldn`t take any more material to do this, and about 5 minutes more of saw time. BTW, I hope the cleat you supply isn`t plywood too. This is something that the uninformed might not realize until the leg rots out, but now they know. Better retrofit. Just looking after the members. rich/Binkie
Jeff	posted 02-18-2010 11:30 PM ET (US) quote: Just looking after the members. Really Rich, or are you just trying to steer another thread off into the wasteland of pettiness? The price in this kit comes down to material costs and yields not saw time. It comes unfinished and in the images it is just cut, routed and sanded. When it comes down to it, as stated, this is a super saver kit. Period. If properly vanished will look good and last many years without any worries. If epoxy sealed it should last a very long time. Put a nice dark red stain on it before sealing it and it will have a real rich look for little money. Growing up I had an Achilles inflatable that my father built a one piece floor for. He used this same plywood and we never put more than a simple coating of poly on it. That boat sat in the water for 5 summers and it always had water in it so, the floor was always wet. After those 5 years we sold it and bought our first Whaler. That Achilles then went to a family friend and he still has it and the floor....it is now 23 years old and still solid. He has refinished the floor at least once.
eedork	posted 02-19-2010 07:08 AM ET (US) Thanks for the reply. I obviously missed the part about the kit being unfinished. I do have another question. With the rear seat on top of the clamps, is there any concern about weight and vibration stripping the screws that hold the clamps to the hull? When the seat is mounted the traditional way, there is a lot less force acting on the clamps (I imagine). I will be picking up an interior at some point, and am trying to figure out if I'm better off just putting a cushion on a seat mounted below the clamp. Thanks! -Matt
R T M	posted 02-19-2010 08:05 AM ET (US) Jeff sezz, Really Rich, or are you just trying to steer another thread off into the wasteland of pettiness? The price in this kit comes down to material costs and yields not saw time. It comes unfinished. Nothing of the sort, Jeff, Its just lack of forethought from the builder. A simple rabbited mahogany cleat would not add any cost to the project. The plywood floorboards in your fathers inflatable were removable so that is not a good comparison. What is a good comparison is to check out an old Nauset console, one of the early ones where the plywood sides were directly attached to the floor. Usually the bottom four inches or so are rotted. Why would someone build somthing with an inherent flaw in it when it could be very easily remedied. As far as building a product with the sole intention of recovering the cost of materials is nonsence. I don`t know what the cost of the plywood is, but if building in mahogany (sapele) which is what everyone uses nowadays and is a beautiful wood, it takes 28 board feet of mahogany to build an interior for a 13 footer, and Sapele costs $5.00 a board ft. Do the math, that`s $140. This interior has a 6" seat back which would add another 2.5 board ft. or $13 It may take 3 or 4 years before the wood under the varnish starts to turn black, and another couple of years for the rot to start at the floor level on the console leg. Yes, I`m looking out for the members, and your just covering up for a personal friend. rich
Jeff	posted 02-19-2010 11:32 AM ET (US) Rich, I am not trying to cover for anything. I am just calling a Spade a Spade. The kit is meant to be a cheap alternative to a solid wood kit. Though it does provide a lot of features the standard solid wood kit does not. Trade offs are trade offs. While you may think "building a product with the sole intention of recovering the cost of materials is [nonsense]." Maybe you do not know what Mike has in stock in his shop and is needing to move. If he has a bunch of quality marine plywood sitting around as overhead why not find a use for it and test a new offering / design. This reduces overhead and provides a source of income. The keys to keeping a business moving forward and above water. Lets face it. With all of the pretty bicker and name calling engaged upon by all parties, your first post in this thread reads as a thinly veiled direct attempt to stoke those coals again. Mike did in fact retaliate back after you proceeded in derailing and utterly defacing a thread he started in honor and living memory of a CW member who passed. That may not have been the best tactic and yes, two wrongs do not make a right. That said, I do give Mike a lot of credit for his business and his products. He jumped in and started a small business from scratch that he passionate about in one of the worst economic times that is country, not to mention the local Detroit region has ever seen. I personally like supporting local businesses that provide good products and outstanding service. Because of this, I have grown to know Mike and his business over the past almost 2 years. If you label that being a personal friend of mine, ok. To me the definition of a "personal friend" may be a little different but, none the less I do endorse and support his work. I also would like to see his business succeed for may reasons. Like Jimh always says (in so many words) If you do not like it, or think you can do a better job, have at it. It is easy to knock this or that while sitting behind a keyboard. Putting your money where your mouth is another story.
R T M	posted 02-19-2010 01:12 PM ET (US) Not trying to knock anyone or their business, or retaliate as you mentioned, just pointing out a simple defect that will cause problems down the road, and a simple remedy for that defect. there is not a single woodworker in the world that will disagree with me, (end grain of plywood does not belong in permanent contact with a surface that will be wet and dry over and over again). No big deal to fix. There is nothing wrong with plywood for this use, as a boat interior, and in fact I think the interior looks very good. I built a 13 foot interior a couple or three years ago out of cypress which is an indestructible wood that doesn`t rot or even need a finish as it greys out and looks similar to teak. I left it out in the Florida sun and rain for six months, and the wood looked unsatisfactory to me for use on a Whaler so I gave the interior away to a member here. I thought is would a good way to produce an inexpensive Whaler interior. Live and learn. rich
nauticallumber	posted 02-19-2010 03:55 PM ET (US) to whom it may concern..... the cleat that is attached to the console & deck is made of mahogany. If you were to apply 2 coats of epoxy to this interior (including the leg) and apply 3 coats of varnish over the top, it will last for the life of the boat if you maintain it properly. Mike
R T M	posted 02-19-2010 04:34 PM ET (US) Good luck with that fix. Covering the endgrain with a finish that will eventually deteriorate didn`t work on the old Nauset consoles. Epoxy and varnish will not hold up in a constantly wet environment. rich
nauticallumber	posted 02-19-2010 05:15 PM ET (US) Rich, Todays marine plywoods and Epoxy resins are much more advanced then when they manufactured the consoles in the 60's & early 70's. Professional Boat builders use these materials to manufacture their frames, laminate stringers, and build kit boats. They use Epoxy with & without fiberglass to encapsulate the plywood & hardwood to prevent moisture & water from penatrating their hulls which are directly in the water. This isn't something I made up last weekend. When you make blanket statements like: "Good luck with that fix. Covering the endgrain with a finish that will eventually deteriorate didn`t work on the old Nauset consoles. Epoxy and varnish will not hold up in a constantly wet environment" ..Rich/Binki It really shows you're lack of experiece in this area and how you need to be the center of attention. Just beccause you're a retired home builder and have built a coouple of interiors hardly make you an authority to follow. People may read your posts but its strictly for entertainment purposes. Mike
R T M	posted 02-19-2010 08:41 PM ET (US) Mike, well we will see over time whether modern adhesives and coatings really allow you to cut some corners. Personally, I wouldn`t take the chance, being that doing things the right(old) way, take so little more time and costs little. Personally I think this website has become more entertainment oriented, this winter, Not a whole lot going on, but maybe that's why we tune in. BTW, I`m thinking of building a stitch and glue race boat. Now that`s not old school. (no frames) rich
dscew	posted 02-19-2010 09:52 PM ET (US) All wood exposed to harsh marine environments needs protection. End grain from solid planks is really no different from end grains in plywood, although the types of wood are probably different--they'll all wick water into them. I don't know why Mike's econo-interiors couldn't last a good long time with occasional inpection and routine maintenance. I do agree that's its a good idea to keep the console leg off of the floor 1/8 inch.
L H G	posted 02-20-2010 04:03 AM ET (US) Since this post is an ad in Marketplace, I always thought it was in extremely poor taste to trash someone's item for sale, pricing, etc. Mike provides a great service to Whaler owners, and doesn't deserve to have his ad and product trashed in Marketplace. No one else does, either. If you don't like the product being advertized, keep it to yourself.
dscew	posted 02-20-2010 07:06 AM ET (US) I'd like an aft thwart seat made out of this double thickness Meranti plywood for my Katama. Mike, would this still require a center support, the span is the same as it would be for an Eastport, width is 12.5 inches.
R T M	posted 02-20-2010 07:18 AM ET (US) OK, Larry, I agree with you, its buyer beware from now on. rich