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  Well, I finally did it...must've hit a deadhead or...?

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Author Topic:   Well, I finally did it...must've hit a deadhead or...?
Arch Autenreith posted 05-08-2000 07:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for Arch Autenreith   Send Email to Arch Autenreith  
Here I go. My Montauk again. Punched a 2 foot by 8 inch "X" (seriously) crack on the flat bottom inboard of the outer chine. Now I don't know where to start. Pretty handy but never had to fiberglass something where I won't be able to get to the inside. Where do I look for answers to this one? Seeing this ruined my day, believe me. One distressed Whaler owner here.
kent posted 05-08-2000 07:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for kent    
Arch

Sorry to hear about your dilema. I have become pretty handy with fibreglas. I also work some fibreglas pros. If you could e-mail me some photos of the damage, perhaps I could help.

lhg posted 05-11-2000 06:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Arch: Sorry to hear about your problem. Every boat owner's nightmare, but at least she didn't sink, as many boats have done in the same circumstances. I dug through my old Whaler archives, and found an old copy of Boston Whaler's OWN instructions for repairing all types of hull damage, including structural damage as you have no doubt done. This is terrific & very valuable information, and I'll send it to Jim. Maybe he can put it up for all to use as a reference. In the meantime, if you need something quick, e-mail me your fax or address, and I'll send it to you right away.
Most fiberglass repair shops do not know the correct way to repair a Whaler, and do not understand that THE KEY TO THE BOATS HULL STRENGTH & INTEGRITY is an intact bond between the two skins and the foam. Rebuilding or repairing requires a duplication of the same materials. Here's an excerpt:
"LARGE STRUCTURAL REPAIRS (Rebuilding of crushed or ripped away sections)

In brief, repairs are accomplished by fitting blocks of foam into the damaged areas, carving to original shape and covering with an appropriate thickness of fiberglass. Finally the fiberglass is ground and sanded smooth and sprayed with colored resin (gelcoat) for finish."

Another note of interest: "Neglected punctures or repairs that fail on the boat bottom can "scoop" water with enough pressure to BURST the FIBERGLASS SKIN AWAY from the foam!"

They also say that common "Styrofoam" must not be used.

Zack posted 05-12-2000 10:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for Zack  Send Email to Zack     
Arch, sorry about the problem. I have a similar but larger hole in our 66 Nauset. About 2 ft wide 12 ft long. I removed all the torn edge from the missing glass. Used a two part foam mixture to replace what foam was missing then applied a 2 part tooling foam to help shape the bottom back. Then I had my fiberglass man reglass the area. I did not feel qualified to make such a large glass repair. By the way, the problem was caused by a poor repair from the previous owner. A small crack developed forward allowing water to get in and just riped the bottom off all the way to the transom. You have to make sure that you have a very good bond to the old glass with plenty of overlay. I can get the name of the tooling foam that I used if you would like. The most important part is to be sure there are no voids in the foam before you reglass. Hope this helps. Zack
Arch Autenreith posted 05-15-2000 10:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
Zack. thanks. Fortunately, the foam wasn't crushed (well, just a wee-bit) and it's all still there. The other guy is sending me a copy of the original Whaler fix and I'll start to see where I go from here. It is a bad crack/rip but the shock of it has faded a bit now. I think I can get her back into the water before too long.

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