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Author Topic:   New Rubrail - Bow Light Worthless?

jwood posted 06-15-2000 08:11 AM ET (US)
HELP!
All of the "tips & tricks" on rubrail installation are great. I decided to put the 3 piece rail on my 68 Sakonnet. It looks beautificious as Don King would say (however people in the know will think it's a 73 or later!). But now I have a BIG problem. I've had all of the hardware re-chromed, including the original bow light assembly (it looks brand new). The bow light has a lip that wraps over the front of the boat and was designed to fit over the small 1 piece rubrail. There's no way the assembly will fit over the new rubrail, the holes through the bow are about an inch off. HELP! What do I do? Have a shop cut off the lip and repolish? Buy a bowlight that was used on a 73 (surely BW changed the bowlight when they went to the 3-piece rubrail)? Cut the rubrail in the center of the bow (don't like this one)?
Any help would be most appreciated.
Joe W.
lhg posted 06-15-2000 02:08 PM ET (US)
Joe: I did exactly the same rubrail upgrade on my Nauset (see picture in Reference Section) and although I simply can't remember
how I solved that Bow Chock problem, I remember the same problem and I know that I solved it without drilling any new holes or altering the chock. You may have to shave some material off the rubrail, but not cut all the way through it. I will look around for an old picture that may show it, and if I find one, will let you know.
Alioop posted 06-15-2000 08:28 PM ET (US)
Joe,Some cutting of the rub rail is necessary.I have a factory installed rub rail on my Montauk with a bow chock and I know it is cut,just not sure which piece.My boat is kept in the water and I will check this weekend when I go out. Mike
KCarlsen posted 06-30-2000 11:12 AM ET (US)
Joe, I just upgraded my rail and had the same problem. I left the bow light assembly in the original holes and cut the bow rail (3 piece). Instead of just cuting the rail staight, I used a jig saw and cut it to the contore of the bow light assembly. Its hard to describe so I will take a picture and ask jimh to post it in the rail installation article. It wasn't easy to do but I could not come up with a better method that would look satisfactory.
jimh posted 06-30-2000 10:13 PM ET (US)
Send a picture and I'll add it to the article on the Rub Rails.
Also include some notes about how to make the cut, etc.
Thanks,
--jimh
Bruce Boehle posted 06-30-2000 10:34 PM ET (US)
I replaced my rub rail with on my 72 Nauset last year. At that time Barbour was happy to deal with me. They even sent me samples to make sure I got the right rail!
I did not want to cut the rail out where the bow chock comes into it so I made a solid mahogany spacer block. I rabbetted it out to fit around the mold and increased the length of the mounting bolts by about an inch. It worked great and I didn't need to cut anything. Bruce
KCarlsen posted 07-01-2000 08:50 PM ET (US)
Bruce, I tried to picture in my head what you did, but I am still confused. Did you place the blocker under the bow chock to lift the whole assembly so that the plate that curves over the front of the bow is now above the rub rail? Could you send a picture to jimh for clarification? Thanks, Kurt
jimh posted 07-01-2000 10:27 PM ET (US)
Interesing comment about Barbour regarding sales to individuals. I got a different story from someone else. Maybe I should call them up and clarify their current policy.
--jimh
Zack posted 04-18-2001 11:59 AM ET (US)
I am bring this back to top to see if I can get any other opions on this subject. I have replace the rail and now need to figure out how to sovle this problem the easiest way. Any comments appreciated. Thanks, Zack
Chesapeake posted 04-19-2001 10:11 AM ET (US)
I also installed a 3-piece rail on my '69 Nauset. I did not cut the insert. I did not completely cut through the hard insert either as I wanted the strength of its remaining one solid piece.
I did cut, using a 3 1/2 inch cordless saw and a sharp chisel, a complete "groove" on the top of the hard plastic section where the thickened edges of the bow chock actually contact the rail. This allowed the chock to actually come closer to sitting right on the deck.
I also trimmed off the front of the hard rail (the grooves that the flexible insert snap into) so that the chock could be positioned closer to the bow.
Even with all that, I still could not use the old holes, so I put a piece of scotch tape on the underside and poured in some West epoxy. Then I drilled out two new holes and remounted the chock. It all worked out pretty well.
Hope this helps.
Zack posted 04-19-2001 11:59 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply I give that method a look and see. I have also been thinking about making a plate for it to sit on. This would allow me to use the same hull holes and make net holes in plate for chock. I will let you know what I end up doing. Thanks again, Zack

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Author	Topic: New Rubrail - Bow Light Worthless?
jwood	posted 06-15-2000 08:11 AM ET (US) HELP! All of the "tips & tricks" on rubrail installation are great. I decided to put the 3 piece rail on my 68 Sakonnet. It looks beautificious as Don King would say (however people in the know will think it's a 73 or later!). But now I have a BIG problem. I've had all of the hardware re-chromed, including the original bow light assembly (it looks brand new). The bow light has a lip that wraps over the front of the boat and was designed to fit over the small 1 piece rubrail. There's no way the assembly will fit over the new rubrail, the holes through the bow are about an inch off. HELP! What do I do? Have a shop cut off the lip and repolish? Buy a bowlight that was used on a 73 (surely BW changed the bowlight when they went to the 3-piece rubrail)? Cut the rubrail in the center of the bow (don't like this one)? Any help would be most appreciated. Joe W.
lhg	posted 06-15-2000 02:08 PM ET (US) Joe: I did exactly the same rubrail upgrade on my Nauset (see picture in Reference Section) and although I simply can't remember how I solved that Bow Chock problem, I remember the same problem and I know that I solved it without drilling any new holes or altering the chock. You may have to shave some material off the rubrail, but not cut all the way through it. I will look around for an old picture that may show it, and if I find one, will let you know.
Alioop	posted 06-15-2000 08:28 PM ET (US) Joe,Some cutting of the rub rail is necessary.I have a factory installed rub rail on my Montauk with a bow chock and I know it is cut,just not sure which piece.My boat is kept in the water and I will check this weekend when I go out. Mike
KCarlsen	posted 06-30-2000 11:12 AM ET (US) Joe, I just upgraded my rail and had the same problem. I left the bow light assembly in the original holes and cut the bow rail (3 piece). Instead of just cuting the rail staight, I used a jig saw and cut it to the contore of the bow light assembly. Its hard to describe so I will take a picture and ask jimh to post it in the rail installation article. It wasn't easy to do but I could not come up with a better method that would look satisfactory.
jimh	posted 06-30-2000 10:13 PM ET (US) Send a picture and I'll add it to the article on the Rub Rails. Also include some notes about how to make the cut, etc. Thanks, --jimh
Bruce Boehle	posted 06-30-2000 10:34 PM ET (US) I replaced my rub rail with on my 72 Nauset last year. At that time Barbour was happy to deal with me. They even sent me samples to make sure I got the right rail! I did not want to cut the rail out where the bow chock comes into it so I made a solid mahogany spacer block. I rabbetted it out to fit around the mold and increased the length of the mounting bolts by about an inch. It worked great and I didn't need to cut anything. Bruce
KCarlsen	posted 07-01-2000 08:50 PM ET (US) Bruce, I tried to picture in my head what you did, but I am still confused. Did you place the blocker under the bow chock to lift the whole assembly so that the plate that curves over the front of the bow is now above the rub rail? Could you send a picture to jimh for clarification? Thanks, Kurt
jimh	posted 07-01-2000 10:27 PM ET (US) Interesing comment about Barbour regarding sales to individuals. I got a different story from someone else. Maybe I should call them up and clarify their current policy. --jimh
Zack	posted 04-18-2001 11:59 AM ET (US) I am bring this back to top to see if I can get any other opions on this subject. I have replace the rail and now need to figure out how to sovle this problem the easiest way. Any comments appreciated. Thanks, Zack
Chesapeake	posted 04-19-2001 10:11 AM ET (US) I also installed a 3-piece rail on my '69 Nauset. I did not cut the insert. I did not completely cut through the hard insert either as I wanted the strength of its remaining one solid piece. I did cut, using a 3 1/2 inch cordless saw and a sharp chisel, a complete "groove" on the top of the hard plastic section where the thickened edges of the bow chock actually contact the rail. This allowed the chock to actually come closer to sitting right on the deck. I also trimmed off the front of the hard rail (the grooves that the flexible insert snap into) so that the chock could be positioned closer to the bow. Even with all that, I still could not use the old holes, so I put a piece of scotch tape on the underside and poured in some West epoxy. Then I drilled out two new holes and remounted the chock. It all worked out pretty well. Hope this helps.
Zack	posted 04-19-2001 11:59 AM ET (US) Thanks for the reply I give that method a look and see. I have also been thinking about making a plate for it to sit on. This would allow me to use the same hull holes and make net holes in plate for chock. I will let you know what I end up doing. Thanks again, Zack