21revenge, waterlogs - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  21revenge, waterlogs

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   21revenge, waterlogs

ben norman posted 08-26-2000 07:37 PM ET (US)
previous owner cut two holes in hull. They made the front compartment a self filling live well. They removed center counsel moved steering off to the side. The boat waterlogs itself gets exteremly, and doesnt dry out for days if ever completly.
I'd guess water is getting in at many different locations. Would like to know how to go about drying out and what to repair. advice would be appreciated
DIVE 1 posted 08-26-2000 10:54 PM ET (US)
Ben,
What exactly is getting wet? Define waterlogs. Is the foam core visible where the previous owner cut the hull? Are the screw holes from the center console filled and sealed?
ben norman posted 08-27-2000 10:12 AM ET (US)
water will drip out of the holes for days, so im sure it fills with water aroud there. Their are little dimples in the floor(by design)that are about 1 inch in diamater. they have cracks in them.i think water is getting in them also. When counsel was moved screws were put in the holes and siliconed. The screws werent sttainless, they rusted, so seal isnt that solid.
On the drivers side of the front of the gas tank(center floor tank)theres an access panel. It has a copper tube going forward, and about 3in dia hole going to the back of the boat. Dont know what it is, or where it goes.
The boat fills with water inside the foam very rapidly. One day on water, docked or driving, and the back end rides very low and wont get up on step(plain out).
Thank you for your response Dive.

triblet posted 08-27-2000 07:36 PM ET (US)
If it waterlogs sitting at the dock, that
says the water is getting in from OUTSIDE,
not the interior. There may also be leaks
from the interior.
I'd pull those rusty bolts out and replace
them with SS and new silicone right away.
Chuck Tribolet
DIVE 1 posted 08-27-2000 09:04 PM ET (US)
Ben,
Without seeing your boat I am afraid that I may not be much help. It seems like you have more than one problem area. Do you have a reputable fiberglass shop in your area? Have them look at your boat and get an estimate, then at least the problems are identified. Keep in mind that your foam core must be dry before repairs are made.
DIVE 1 posted 08-27-2000 09:11 PM ET (US)
Forgot one thing. Since you live up north, and cold weather is on the way, DO NOT let water freeze in the foam core(it gets mushy). Keep the boat indoors if needed until the foam is dried and repairs are made.
ben norman posted 08-28-2000 12:18 AM ET (US)
The bottom of the boat has been gelcoated recently, and it was a very nice looking job. I read on earlier postings about using vacuum pumps to remove moisture. I sounds good, but I would like to try to dry out from the inside of the boat. I have access to wall dryers and would like to make a series of holes in the floor. Id put the dryer attachments into the holes dry out with air. I'm worried about that bw foam. Would the foam allow air to circulate at all to dry out.
ben norman posted 08-28-2000 12:19 AM ET (US)
Thank you for your responses
frank posted 08-28-2000 01:11 AM ET (US)
ben- i had a similar problem with my 87 18' outrage. there was a thru-hull fitting from the keel to the forward anchor locker which i assumed was a factory installed fitting.(it looked like a factory job) the seal around the fitting was sealed with silicone which was the second mistake. i always noticed my boat would leak from that area for days after i pulled it from the water. so i decided to remove it completly. it never made any sense to me why whaler would put a drain below the waterline (first mistake). i think the point of a thru-hull is to drain water from the deck . this fitting only allowed water to enter the forward compartment. so after a lot of advice, and from talking to some folks at west systems and west marine i just sealed the hole off with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. the job took a lot of time but it is a very strong seal. i did however attempt to remove as much water as possible from the keel ( i sealed the top then put the wet-dry vac to it.) now i laugh when i read about bw foam being impervious to water. the foam probably will always remain boyant but water goes into it . i pulled a chunk out ,squeezed it ,and water came from it . just like a sponge. although i feel the tremendous force of the wet - dry vac pulled most of the water into it. i wouldn't worry about water penetration under normal circumstances. i also noticed the forward hull got sucked in when the vac was put in the opening .when i shut the vac off it would pop back out - like the hull was breathing. this meant there is a void between the hull and foam. oh well i guess i have to live with that one, anyway my advice would be to dry the foam as best as possible and seal the hull. good luck ... i'll check back to see how you made out>>>>> frank
ben norman posted 08-30-2000 12:06 PM ET (US)
I've stripped out the boat. I removed the center floor gas tank. It looks like I'll be able to drill holes in three places inside the compartment where the gas tank sits. One in the front, in the center and as low as I can. The other two would be on the sides as far back as i can, and as low as I can.
I worried about how close I can punch the holes to the bottom of the boat and be safe(not losing strength or risking going through).
The areas Ive opened up and exposed the bw foam have dried rapidly and the foam is still ridgid. I looks very promising. Hopefully its is a good omen on how well I can dry this extremely wet boat out.
ben norman posted 08-30-2000 02:44 PM ET (US)
In a 1979(probably 1979) revenge does anyone know how much space is their between the bottom of the boat(outside)and the inside of the floor underneath the gas tank.
Thats awkward. How thick is the boat, underneath the gas tank. Center tank.
Water, water everywhere!!!!!!

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 21revenge, waterlogs
ben norman	posted 08-26-2000 07:37 PM ET (US) previous owner cut two holes in hull. They made the front compartment a self filling live well. They removed center counsel moved steering off to the side. The boat waterlogs itself gets exteremly, and doesnt dry out for days if ever completly. I'd guess water is getting in at many different locations. Would like to know how to go about drying out and what to repair. advice would be appreciated
DIVE 1	posted 08-26-2000 10:54 PM ET (US) Ben, What exactly is getting wet? Define waterlogs. Is the foam core visible where the previous owner cut the hull? Are the screw holes from the center console filled and sealed?
ben norman	posted 08-27-2000 10:12 AM ET (US) water will drip out of the holes for days, so im sure it fills with water aroud there. Their are little dimples in the floor(by design)that are about 1 inch in diamater. they have cracks in them.i think water is getting in them also. When counsel was moved screws were put in the holes and siliconed. The screws werent sttainless, they rusted, so seal isnt that solid. On the drivers side of the front of the gas tank(center floor tank)theres an access panel. It has a copper tube going forward, and about 3in dia hole going to the back of the boat. Dont know what it is, or where it goes. The boat fills with water inside the foam very rapidly. One day on water, docked or driving, and the back end rides very low and wont get up on step(plain out). Thank you for your response Dive.
triblet	posted 08-27-2000 07:36 PM ET (US) If it waterlogs sitting at the dock, that says the water is getting in from OUTSIDE, not the interior. There may also be leaks from the interior. I'd pull those rusty bolts out and replace them with SS and new silicone right away. Chuck Tribolet
DIVE 1	posted 08-27-2000 09:04 PM ET (US) Ben, Without seeing your boat I am afraid that I may not be much help. It seems like you have more than one problem area. Do you have a reputable fiberglass shop in your area? Have them look at your boat and get an estimate, then at least the problems are identified. Keep in mind that your foam core must be dry before repairs are made.
DIVE 1	posted 08-27-2000 09:11 PM ET (US) Forgot one thing. Since you live up north, and cold weather is on the way, DO NOT let water freeze in the foam core(it gets mushy). Keep the boat indoors if needed until the foam is dried and repairs are made.
ben norman	posted 08-28-2000 12:18 AM ET (US) The bottom of the boat has been gelcoated recently, and it was a very nice looking job. I read on earlier postings about using vacuum pumps to remove moisture. I sounds good, but I would like to try to dry out from the inside of the boat. I have access to wall dryers and would like to make a series of holes in the floor. Id put the dryer attachments into the holes dry out with air. I'm worried about that bw foam. Would the foam allow air to circulate at all to dry out.
ben norman	posted 08-28-2000 12:19 AM ET (US) Thank you for your responses
frank	posted 08-28-2000 01:11 AM ET (US) ben- i had a similar problem with my 87 18' outrage. there was a thru-hull fitting from the keel to the forward anchor locker which i assumed was a factory installed fitting.(it looked like a factory job) the seal around the fitting was sealed with silicone which was the second mistake. i always noticed my boat would leak from that area for days after i pulled it from the water. so i decided to remove it completly. it never made any sense to me why whaler would put a drain below the waterline (first mistake). i think the point of a thru-hull is to drain water from the deck . this fitting only allowed water to enter the forward compartment. so after a lot of advice, and from talking to some folks at west systems and west marine i just sealed the hole off with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. the job took a lot of time but it is a very strong seal. i did however attempt to remove as much water as possible from the keel ( i sealed the top then put the wet-dry vac to it.) now i laugh when i read about bw foam being impervious to water. the foam probably will always remain boyant but water goes into it . i pulled a chunk out ,squeezed it ,and water came from it . just like a sponge. although i feel the tremendous force of the wet - dry vac pulled most of the water into it. i wouldn't worry about water penetration under normal circumstances. i also noticed the forward hull got sucked in when the vac was put in the opening .when i shut the vac off it would pop back out - like the hull was breathing. this meant there is a void between the hull and foam. oh well i guess i have to live with that one, anyway my advice would be to dry the foam as best as possible and seal the hull. good luck ... i'll check back to see how you made out>>>>> frank
ben norman	posted 08-30-2000 12:06 PM ET (US) I've stripped out the boat. I removed the center floor gas tank. It looks like I'll be able to drill holes in three places inside the compartment where the gas tank sits. One in the front, in the center and as low as I can. The other two would be on the sides as far back as i can, and as low as I can. I worried about how close I can punch the holes to the bottom of the boat and be safe(not losing strength or risking going through). The areas Ive opened up and exposed the bw foam have dried rapidly and the foam is still ridgid. I looks very promising. Hopefully its is a good omen on how well I can dry this extremely wet boat out.
ben norman	posted 08-30-2000 02:44 PM ET (US) In a 1979(probably 1979) revenge does anyone know how much space is their between the bottom of the boat(outside)and the inside of the floor underneath the gas tank. Thats awkward. How thick is the boat, underneath the gas tank. Center tank. Water, water everywhere!!!!!!