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  Access plate to the foam came loose, =wet foam.

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Author Topic:   Access plate to the foam came loose, =wet foam.
triblet posted 08-31-2000 01:20 AM ET (US)   Profile for triblet   Send Email to triblet  
I noticed that the access plate in the bow
locker of my Montauk where they poured the
foam in was coming up a little. I pulled
it up the rest of the the way and indeed
the foam underneath is wet. The initial problem was that the factory put
down a thin bead along one part of it
They had put a thick coat of sealant over
all the foam, it looks like let that set,
then run a bead around the edge and a little
zig zag pattern in the middle.


Problem 1 is drying the foam. I've got
a bad-boy shop vac (Sears best) and I'll
see what that will do after I fabricate
something to cover the hole and let it suck.

Problem 2 is filling the void left when
I pulled up the solid layer of sealant to
see if the foam was wet. I've got a couple
of ideas: A. fill it with the aerosol
insulating foam from the hardware store.
When that sets, smear the top with sealant.
B. fill it with closed cell 1/2 foam,
top that with a piece of "inner tube"
(gasket material, actually) sealed to the
underside of the fibre glass, them smear
the top of that with sealant.

Problem 3 is glueing the plate back down.
Maybe 5200? 5200FC (fast cure)? 4200FC?
From the specs, 5200 FC and 5200 are equal,
except for cure time. 4200FC is rated
better for plastic hardware to fibreglass.
5200/5200FC is rated better for strength.

Thoughts?

Chuck Tribolet


reeltime2 posted 08-31-2000 08:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for reeltime2  Send Email to reeltime2     
Chuck,
Just a note on the 3m products, they consider 5200 a "permanent" bond and 4200 a "temporary" bond. You should use 4200 on things like windsheild frames or deck mounted hardware smothing you might remove at a later time. 5200 is for something that will never be removed. As for your broblem I would use the hardware store foam once it dries I would cut it flush and smear 5200 all over the surface and run a bead of 5200 around the cover plate IMO that should last forever.
Good Luck with it,
Rick
bigz posted 08-31-2000 08:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
Chuck and Rick,

Here is another source for marine poly foam
http://www.rhhfoamsystems.com/literature/mfb-1/index.html

Tom

bschmitt posted 08-31-2000 03:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for bschmitt  Send Email to bschmitt     
>RHH Foam<
Looks just what the doctor ordered. Do they sell direct, or does one need to go through a dealer? If so, which one?

BS

andygere posted 08-31-2000 07:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Just a tip for using 3M 5200: Allow lots of time for it to cure, like a week. If you do, it will be totally bomber, and won't fail you. I've used this stuff on kayaks and Hobie Cats for years with great results. I even used it to fix a leak on my hot tub heater. Now I have to go home and check my Montauk for the same problem....
DIVE 1 posted 08-31-2000 10:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for DIVE 1    
Chuck,
The best way we found to get the water out of the foam is to start with some type of vacuum to pull out as much as possible. Then put calcium chloride beads in cheese cloth or a cotton cloth. Set this on top of the hole and cover with a small plastic trash bag. Tape the plastic bag to the fibergass making an airtight balloon over the calcium chloride bag. Polyester resin and gelcoat are pourous materials and the calcium chloride will actually pull the moisture through the fiberglass. Check on the bag every day, if the calcium chloride turns into a hard clump, change the beads, they are full of moisture. This process usually takes 1-2 weeks, sunlight will speed the process along.
Hoop posted 09-01-2000 12:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for Hoop  Send Email to Hoop     
Chuck, Do I remember your saying that your whaler was made in the 90's? I would think that warranty would cover the repair of what you've got. Hoop
bigz posted 09-01-2000 06:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
bschmitt

I don't know --- why not give them a call or a quick email --- Tom

triblet posted 09-01-2000 11:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
It's a '98 hull. It would be covered
under warantee. But the dealer is an
hour and a half away (two trips = 6 hours).
He'd keep it two-three weeks and I use
it every weekend.

I did the repair last night. It took a
total of about two hours over the last
two nights, and an hour chasing up
materials. The boat could, in theory,
be back in the water Saturday (I used the
fast cure flavor of 5200), though the vis
has been bad the last few days, so I'll
probably do a bike ride instead.

I ended up not using the aerosol foam. I
had some closed cell foam which I could
cut to just the right size to fill the void.


Chuck Tribolet

triblet posted 09-05-2000 09:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Two good lines from rec.boats the last few
days:

What's the difference between 5200 and
herpes? 5200 lasts longer.

5200 is not a sealant. It's a death grip in
a can. You'll give up before it will.

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