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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Access plate to the foam came loose, =wet foam.
|Author||Topic: Access plate to the foam came loose, =wet foam.|
posted 08-31-2000 01:20 AM ET (US)
I noticed that the access plate in the bow
locker of my Montauk where they poured the
foam in was coming up a little. I pulled
it up the rest of the the way and indeed
the foam underneath is wet. The initial problem was that the factory put
down a thin bead along one part of it
They had put a thick coat of sealant over
all the foam, it looks like let that set,
then run a bead around the edge and a little
zig zag pattern in the middle.
Problem 2 is filling the void left when
Problem 3 is glueing the plate back down.
posted 08-31-2000 08:23 AM ET (US)
Just a note on the 3m products, they consider 5200 a "permanent" bond and 4200 a "temporary" bond. You should use 4200 on things like windsheild frames or deck mounted hardware smothing you might remove at a later time. 5200 is for something that will never be removed. As for your broblem I would use the hardware store foam once it dries I would cut it flush and smear 5200 all over the surface and run a bead of 5200 around the cover plate IMO that should last forever.
Good Luck with it,
posted 08-31-2000 08:59 AM ET (US)
Chuck and Rick,
Here is another source for marine poly foam
posted 08-31-2000 03:31 PM ET (US)
Looks just what the doctor ordered. Do they sell direct, or does one need to go through a dealer? If so, which one?
posted 08-31-2000 07:41 PM ET (US)
Just a tip for using 3M 5200: Allow lots of time for it to cure, like a week. If you do, it will be totally bomber, and won't fail you. I've used this stuff on kayaks and Hobie Cats for years with great results. I even used it to fix a leak on my hot tub heater. Now I have to go home and check my Montauk for the same problem....
posted 08-31-2000 10:59 PM ET (US)
The best way we found to get the water out of the foam is to start with some type of vacuum to pull out as much as possible. Then put calcium chloride beads in cheese cloth or a cotton cloth. Set this on top of the hole and cover with a small plastic trash bag. Tape the plastic bag to the fibergass making an airtight balloon over the calcium chloride bag. Polyester resin and gelcoat are pourous materials and the calcium chloride will actually pull the moisture through the fiberglass. Check on the bag every day, if the calcium chloride turns into a hard clump, change the beads, they are full of moisture. This process usually takes 1-2 weeks, sunlight will speed the process along.
posted 09-01-2000 12:04 AM ET (US)
Chuck, Do I remember your saying that your whaler was made in the 90's? I would think that warranty would cover the repair of what you've got. Hoop
posted 09-01-2000 06:09 AM ET (US)
I don't know --- why not give them a call or a quick email --- Tom
posted 09-01-2000 11:31 AM ET (US)
It's a '98 hull. It would be covered
under warantee. But the dealer is an
hour and a half away (two trips = 6 hours).
He'd keep it two-three weeks and I use
it every weekend.
I did the repair last night. It took a
I ended up not using the aerosol foam. I
posted 09-05-2000 09:10 PM ET (US)
Two good lines from rec.boats the last few
What's the difference between 5200 and
5200 is not a sealant. It's a death grip in
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