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  Stainless 7/8" tubing and pop rivets

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Author Topic:   Stainless 7/8" tubing and pop rivets
kingfish posted 09-10-2000 07:45 PM ET (US)   Profile for kingfish   Send Email to kingfish  
Does anyone have a source for stainless 7/8" bimini-type tubing (small amount; couple of straight pieces 3' or 4' long) and stainless pop rivets??

This time I really know I want stainless!!

jcf

dfmcintyre posted 09-10-2000 09:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
John -

Call Barry Schunr (810-987-4837) here in Port Huron. He owns a metal fabrication business that has made custom s/s marine hardware for years. He made some brackets for some aux tanks for me that I ended up not using, but sold with the tanks to another forum member.

Good guy to work with...

Watcha makin?

Mac

kingfish posted 09-10-2000 10:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Mac-

My Mills forward shelter came in and I installed it over the weekend; I am now convinced that I can utilize the Mills suntop that I already had in lieu of a new fly top. I just need to have a canvas shop sew a zip flap on the underside of the middle bow of my suntop and then I can have a "windshield" and side curtains fabricated to fit between the new flap and the rear edge of the shelter. The biggest visual difference from my setup to the factory setup is that I will have sort of a "visor" (the portion of my suntop from the middle bow to the front bow) overhead the new windshield when it is in place. This is what I had hoped to find when I got the shelter up, and why I didn't order the whole set. I really like having the extra overhead canvas of the suntop, when it's sunny...(Hang on, I'm getting there-)

In planning for these fabrications and eventually for the back curtain, I want to move the anchor point of the rear suntop guy straps back on the gunwales so the straps are vertical, rather than angled forward, and to do that and have the rear bow-leg props meet the gunwales at the same point as the straps, and for the geometry to be right, both props have to be about 4" longer than they currently are. (Whew!) So there is the need for the lengths of 7/8" stainless, and I need stainless pop rivets to re-attach the pivot heads.

Thanks for the lead...I'll keep you posted- (I wish I were closer to the canvas guy you told me about up your way - I know exactly what I want to do, but it's going to take a shop that's really good, and really conscientious to do it the way I want it done. I have some reservations about the local shop's ability to meet the fit and finish levels that the Mills stuff has.)

jcf

kingfish posted 09-10-2000 10:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Mac-

My Mills forward shelter came in and I installed it over the weekend; I am now convinced that I can utilize the Mills suntop that I already had in lieu of a new fly top. I just need to have a canvas shop sew a zip flap on the underside of the middle bow of my suntop and then I can have a "windshield" and side curtains fabricated to fit between the new flap and the rear edge of the shelter. The biggest visual difference from my setup to the factory setup is that I will have sort of a "visor" (the portion of my suntop from the middle bow to the front bow) overhead the new windshield when it is in place. This is what I had hoped to find when I got the shelter up, and why I didn't order the whole set. I really like having the extra overhead canvas of the suntop, when it's sunny...(Hang on, I'm getting there-)

In planning for these fabrications and eventually for the back curtain, I want to move the anchor point of the rear suntop guy straps back on the gunwales so the straps are vertical, rather than angled forward, and to do that and have the rear bow-leg props meet the gunwales at the same point as the straps, and for the geometry to be right, both props have to be about 4" longer than they currently are. (Whew!) So there is the need for the lengths of 7/8" stainless, and I need stainless pop rivets to re-attach the pivot heads.

Thanks for the lead...I'll keep you posted- (I wish I were closer to the canvas guy you told me about up your way - I know exactly what I want to do, but it's going to take a shop that's really good, and really conscientious to do it the way I want it done. I have some reservations about the local shop's ability to meet the fit and finish levels that the Mills stuff has.)

jcf

kingfish posted 09-10-2000 10:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Oops...
lhg posted 09-10-2000 11:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
John: Glad you got your shelter. Now you can do some cruising with us! I have seen lengths of 7/8" SS tubing in the West Marine catalog. Maybe Mills would send you the pop-rivets. What about having them send you the regular windshield, side curtains and top aft curtain first, as originally designed for your boat, then when you have the stuff, and get it installed, the local guy can do what's necessary to make it work with the sun top? The sides of the your sun top will have to be altered with hole type fittings, as the top of the side curtains have four "twist studs" for the connection to the (flying) top. All other connections are zippered, including the rear edge of the top. If you do this with Mills, then all of your connections will work with each other (below the top level), and only your sun top will need to be altered to meet all of the stuff below. And, as a last resort, if it can't be done, you can sell the sun top & get the flying top. I can't see how a lot of local custom design work, especially with Mills quality, could be cheaper than just getting the Mills pre-designed components. You have to be careful that you're not "throwing good money after bad" in this situation. Good luck, and let me know if I can be of further help.

PS. How do you like the forward shelter?

kingfish posted 09-11-2000 08:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Larry -

I like the shelter real well. I had the devil's own time getting the edge of the shelter down to the deck on either side right around the middle bow, though. I stretched and pulled and coaxed, and didn't dare pull any harder for fear of ripping the stitching out. I wound up taking the middle bow out and shortening each leg by 1" (I didn't want to move the deck hinges from their design locations for fear of changing the general geometry in some way). That did the trick, and now, when stretched nicely, but not to the point of failure, the shelter sides come just about down to the deck everywhere in a regular fashion. (There was air between the bottom edge and the combing before.)

All -
1. 7/8' stainless tubing - Boat US and West Marine (not sure yet about the wall thickness)
2. Stainless pop rivets - Boat US Thanks-

jcf

dfmcintyre posted 09-11-2000 07:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
John --

Sounds like an interesting little project...

Once you get to the point of deciding on a shop for the windshield, backdrop, etc. I'll post the name of my source. He's done three canvas jobs that I personally have seen, and _all_ were flawless. Mine, if you recall, had oversize ss tubing bent and welded for my shelter. Barry at WW could have done the bending, but Dockside was able to do it all.

A good friend had his 30' Tiara re-canvased, which convinced my father to have his 30' ChrisCraft Sportsman done by John too. A very fine craftsman.

And, if the $ permit it, I'll have him finish mine with the windshield, sides and rear this winter.

Do you still want the info on the platform material (baltec)?..

Mac

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