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Author Topic:   25' outrage delamination
David Harcourt posted 10-23-2000 12:52 PM ET (US)   Profile for David Harcourt   Send Email to David Harcourt  
I have laocated a 25' Outrage that is apparently delaminated from the foam core as it has waves down the sides. Is there a repair service that undertakes that kind of repair? Hopefully one on the west coast. I am in Rapid City, South Dakota.
DIVE 1 posted 10-23-2000 10:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for DIVE 1    
Are you sure the core is delaminated? A lot of BWs look wavy down the sides. Try and push in on the side of the hull with your thumb or your hand, If the fiberglass flexes, you have a delaminatin problem. You can also use a small rubber hammer to tap on the hull and listen for a change in the sound.
David Harcourt posted 10-24-2000 10:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for David Harcourt  Send Email to David Harcourt     
Unfortunately the boat is in Mexico and I'm a long way away. I'll go back down next month so I'll take a better look then. I had never before paid any attention to Whalers but upon a cursory inspection of that one I was impressed. Do you have any Idea what a fair market value of an Outrage 25 center console is? What years were they made?
David Harcourt posted 10-24-2000 11:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for David Harcourt  Send Email to David Harcourt     
More Info. This one is without motor and trailer. The gel coat is oxidized and the wood although complete is desparatly in need of refinishing. It has a good bimini top and nothing else in extra equipment. I realize that estimating its value is impossible however please try. There are no 25 outrages on the net that I can find to compare.

Thanks a bunch

Reliant posted 10-24-2000 01:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Reliant  Send Email to Reliant     
David - check out this weeks cetacea and particularly the cetacea comments for answers to some of your questions,

Also, here are a couple of links to help you asses the value of the outrage you saw,

Be sure to put in Boston Whaler as the manufacturer and for the yachtworld link, make sure you change the "Units of Measure" to feet from meters before you input the length or you will not find anything.

Just for an F.Y.I, I went through this process about a year ago with my 25. A friend of mine looked up the price of the hull in a marine reference book on used boat prices and for 1983 Outrage Cuddy hull in good shape, the range was $15,000 to $19,000.

Things to check:
Drain tubes - are they rusted out. Has water gotten into the hull here?
Transom - Is it rotten and needs to be replaced?
Floor Panels - Are they soaked with water and sagging or worse yet, cracked and broken?
Gel coat - is there enough left to buff out the boat or are you going to have to paint or re-gel coat the hull?
Wood - Has it been sanded so many times that there is next to nothing left?
Fuel Fill Lines - take out the two panels covering these on the port side of the boat and check to make sure the hoses are not rotten. Due to the design of the outer hull, water tends to collect around the fuel fill line/lines here. If they are rotten, you will have to pull everything out of the boat, pull out the floors and replace all the hoses. Big project. Been there - done that.

Hope this help,

Peter Ferguson

David Harcourt posted 10-24-2000 10:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Harcourt  Send Email to David Harcourt     
You bet it helps as I am a novice at this. I'm heading down to look at it again but this time I have some idea what ot look for.
Thanks everyone for the help
JC Scott posted 10-25-2000 01:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for JC Scott  Send Email to JC Scott     
Peter: Is there an accurate way to assess the strength of the transom, where a moisture meter shows there to be some water in it?
Reliant posted 10-25-2000 08:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Reliant  Send Email to Reliant     
JC Scott - I do not know of a way to assess the strength of the transom. I posed your question to a friend of mine who has worked in a Whaler dealership for 30 years and knows a lot more about these sorts of things then I. He said that the wood in the transom can get wet without loss of strength, but his advice is that you need to get the water out. If the boat is in storage, let it sit for a few months and test it again. If the moisture is gone, then look for any places it might have gotten into the hull and seal them. Places to look - drain tubes, holes where old transducers have been removed, chips or cracks in the hull or around the mounting bolts for the motor. If the water is still present after letting the boat sit, then you might want to consider drilling some small holes in the bottom of the transom near where you are detecting moisture and let it drain for awhile and then seal everything back up. Do not use just silicone seal. You will need to use something that can be used under the waterline. I think 3M makes a sealant for this purpose.

Hope this helps,


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