Refinishing - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Refinishing

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Refinishing

Ratus posted 12-22-2000 01:06 AM ET (US)
I want to refinish the wood in my 1986 13' sport. There is alot of exposed wood and flaking varnish. Can anyone tell me what is the best way to remove the old varnish? Do I need to remove all of the old varnish? Thank you in advance. Spencer
wildeone posted 12-22-2000 08:13 AM ET (US)
Refinishing my teak this winter on my 18 Outrage. You should sand all wood until smooth. Usually 80 grit paper finish with 120 grit. Then you can varnish or stain to your taste. I will do alittle of both, if you use varnish my experiance has been Epifanes is the best, with some Penetrol added to flow better.
stagalv posted 12-22-2000 11:23 AM ET (US)
Ratus,
I reworked a 13 last year and totaly stripped all of the old varnish off. I used a heat gun (like a powerful blow dryer) and a scraper and the old varnish came off very easily. Certainly be careful not to burn any wood or gouge it with the scraper. Then I used the two part teak cleaner (available at Boat US/West Marine) to clean and bleach the wood (do a couple of times). THEN, sand, sand, sand until you get the grain to look good and clean. When you are ready to varnish thin the first 2 coats to just less than 50/50 so that it will soak in the grain well. After these first couple of coats remember to sand in between each coat. The trick is to get a good 8 or 9 coats then (depending on weather exposure) apply another two coats per year to maintain the finish. I am now refitting a Montauk and just yesterday went to West Marine and bought Epifanes clear, high-gloss varnish and am using Epifanes thinner. Last time I used Interlux Schooner 96 and it worked well but I have heard so many good things about Epifanes I thought I would use it on this boat. Good Luck!! Rex
dfmcintyre posted 12-22-2000 11:57 AM ET (US)
Spencer
I'd follow what Rex suggested, with one small exception. Are you talking about teak trim or mahogany? If its the mahogany seats and side pieces, you don't need to bleach the wood with cleaner. All that does is remove the top coat of teak that has sun grayed or sun bleached, and by your sanding, that will takes it place. If you do bleach it, be sure to use LOTS of water to rinse, otherwise it will interact (not a good interaction, btw) with the varnish. Be sure to let it dry well after washing before any varnishing.
I've heard lots of good stuff about the Epifanes, and will also try it over the winter on the trim, seat and rear hatch covers of my Outrage.
Best - Don

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Refinishing
Ratus	posted 12-22-2000 01:06 AM ET (US) I want to refinish the wood in my 1986 13' sport. There is alot of exposed wood and flaking varnish. Can anyone tell me what is the best way to remove the old varnish? Do I need to remove all of the old varnish? Thank you in advance. Spencer
wildeone	posted 12-22-2000 08:13 AM ET (US) Refinishing my teak this winter on my 18 Outrage. You should sand all wood until smooth. Usually 80 grit paper finish with 120 grit. Then you can varnish or stain to your taste. I will do alittle of both, if you use varnish my experiance has been Epifanes is the best, with some Penetrol added to flow better.
stagalv	posted 12-22-2000 11:23 AM ET (US) Ratus, I reworked a 13 last year and totaly stripped all of the old varnish off. I used a heat gun (like a powerful blow dryer) and a scraper and the old varnish came off very easily. Certainly be careful not to burn any wood or gouge it with the scraper. Then I used the two part teak cleaner (available at Boat US/West Marine) to clean and bleach the wood (do a couple of times). THEN, sand, sand, sand until you get the grain to look good and clean. When you are ready to varnish thin the first 2 coats to just less than 50/50 so that it will soak in the grain well. After these first couple of coats remember to sand in between each coat. The trick is to get a good 8 or 9 coats then (depending on weather exposure) apply another two coats per year to maintain the finish. I am now refitting a Montauk and just yesterday went to West Marine and bought Epifanes clear, high-gloss varnish and am using Epifanes thinner. Last time I used Interlux Schooner 96 and it worked well but I have heard so many good things about Epifanes I thought I would use it on this boat. Good Luck!! Rex
dfmcintyre	posted 12-22-2000 11:57 AM ET (US) Spencer I'd follow what Rex suggested, with one small exception. Are you talking about teak trim or mahogany? If its the mahogany seats and side pieces, you don't need to bleach the wood with cleaner. All that does is remove the top coat of teak that has sun grayed or sun bleached, and by your sanding, that will takes it place. If you do bleach it, be sure to use LOTS of water to rinse, otherwise it will interact (not a good interaction, btw) with the varnish. Be sure to let it dry well after washing before any varnishing. I've heard lots of good stuff about the Epifanes, and will also try it over the winter on the trim, seat and rear hatch covers of my Outrage. Best - Don