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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Outboard Paint Primer?
|Author||Topic: Outboard Paint Primer?|
posted 01-10-2001 02:01 PM ET (US)
My 1997 Nissan 15hp kicker has suffered extensive surface corrosion despite my best efforts at preventing it. Having recently located a couple of cans of Tempo Nissan Blue Metallic Marine Motor Paint, I'm ready to restore the painted surfaces. I have already buffed down the areas with a wire wheel to the bare alloy. First question, do I need to follow up with sandpaper? If so, what grit(s)? What is the proper primer to use on the bare metal? The Tempo can only says to use a Tempo primer. Any suggestions to provide a durable job will be appreciated.
posted 01-10-2001 02:58 PM ET (US)
Joe get a couple of cans of zinc chromate -- West has it and most outboard shops. Might want to go over the metal with 200 grit and then spray with the zinc as soon as you clean off the dust --- you don't want to leave aluminum exposed or it will oxidize fast and you'll have to sand all over again.
Hint if your in a warm room the zinc will dry fast so you can usually get two coats on, then a light sanding say 400 grit prior to the finish coats (you don't need Tempo primer) hope this helps if you have any other just give me a shout --- have refinished 5 OB's Tom
posted 01-10-2001 03:39 PM ET (US)
Thanks Tom! I rummaged around in the workshop and found a can of "Yellow Zinc Chromate Primer." Is this the same product you referred to?
posted 01-10-2001 03:39 PM ET (US)
I have had great luck with the Tempo OB paints. BigZ is absolutely correct with priming using zinc chromate primer. I also wash down the exposed aluminum with Alumaprep acid wash prior to using the primer, this gets rid of all grease and surface contaminents and prevents the "fish eye" associated with painting aluminum. Good luck.
posted 01-10-2001 04:16 PM ET (US)
My whalers have lived in salt water and I constantly battle salt corrosion. Zinc chromate is the answer. I also use starter fluid to clean the surface before painting, sometimes other chemicals can leave a film, the either in starter fluid evaporates clean. I also once rebuilt the surface of an eaten away lower unit using JB kwick weld it works great on aluminum and holds up well in water. Good luck!
posted 01-10-2001 04:41 PM ET (US)
Degrease with a high quality automotive laquer thinner, applied with a lint-free cotton cloth just before priming.
posted 01-10-2001 11:26 PM ET (US)
I had some trouble finding "zinc-chromate" primer. Most places sell "zinc-phosphate" instead.
I also used an auto-store "self-etching green primer". Watch out for this, as the self-etching feature etches into gelcoat quite nicely.
Have you read my article about painting lower units? See:
posted 01-11-2001 05:47 AM ET (US)
Yes Joe it is the same stuff and it also comes in green which I find easier to cover over with finish paint than the yellow -- either will work though ---
The fellows who mentioned a "wash" down are right on --- should have spelled that out when I mentioned "clean off the dust".
Jim it might depend on the State some have banned it others only allow spray cans to be sold to the consumer (any larger quantity only to professionals) and others no problem can get an quantity -- I can only get spray cans in NJ unless I ask my marina folks to get me quarts but in Maine no problem can purchase whatever --- go figure --
posted 01-11-2001 05:51 AM ET (US)
Use a good paint respirator if your doing this in a confined space -- and of course don't light up --- Z
posted 01-11-2001 04:33 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the responses. jimh--I should have read your article first. I did today and it covers the subject well. Thanks again.
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