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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Replaceing Skeg on Outboard Engine?
|Author||Topic: Replaceing Skeg on Outboard Engine?|
posted 01-14-2001 07:51 AM ET (US)
Hey guys, I think the skeg is the lower fin on the very bottom of an outboard engine? Anyway, my 75` 85h.p. Johnson outboard skeg/fin has about 1 inch chipped off of it and is bent slightly/a little more than slightly. It is welded on and my brothers and I can`t find a replacement to put on, I know welders, but can`t find the skeg/fin to get put on? I am trying as an alternative to find a lower unit without the guts and my local mechanic said he would put it on for me, but all of the lower units that I have found have the guts in them, and they sell for above $200+. Any suggestions would be awsome! Regards-Jack Graner.
posted 01-14-2001 08:18 AM ET (US)
Try Bobs Machine Shop they sell replacement skegs.There web address is www.bobsmachine.com
posted 01-14-2001 08:23 AM ET (US)
Thank you Mike, I will try them! Regards-Jack Graner.
posted 01-14-2001 08:29 AM ET (US)
Look at Skegguard.com $99 for stainless steel, bolt on skeg replacement. I've seen these in person and they look great.
posted 01-14-2001 08:42 AM ET (US)
Mark has a good suggestion here is the information ---
http://www.worldclassmarine.com/skeggard2.html it list $130, but Cabelas sells them for $100 SL-01-1002 their part # in 2000 Marine catalog --- check out the "application guide" on the website you'll need to tell the product# to whomever you order from --- Tom
|Lil Whaler Lover||
posted 01-14-2001 09:06 AM ET (US)
Before spending the big dollars on the SS Skeg Guard, I would suggest that you chack with your local Prop Repair shop. They usually offer a repair service at a modest price to repair skegs. Sometimes they weld in a small piece and othertimes they will cut off the lower part and weld a new piece on. Working for a dealer in Maine showed me that this was a much better repair than the SS Skeg Guard. We found that the Skeg Guard worked better to prevent damage than it did to repair damage. Good Luck, Dave
posted 01-14-2001 09:12 AM ET (US)
Hey guys, thanks for all of the info, so many routes I could follow, good problem I guess. Dave I don`t live anywhere near a prop repair shop that I know of, but will do my best too find out, I will compare all the angles of this delema. I wish they offered that Skeggaurd in a regular painted version, or just plain metal and I could paint it myself. I fish only in freshwater and don`t need stainless steel, and the painted/non-painted version would keep the cost lower? What do you all think, maybee I should call them and suggest it, and then they could make all of the profits! Regards-Jack Graner.
posted 01-14-2001 09:16 AM ET (US)
David you may be right -- but from my experience at about $50 an hour shop time around these parts your almost apples to apples on price and from what Jack explains a Skegguard might do the trick since it sounds like the repair will be made on top of a repair (this is alum. to boot) --- maybe reading Jack's explaination wrong -- Tom
posted 01-14-2001 09:23 AM ET (US)
Bigs, the skeg is broken and bent, so either repair, replaceing the skeg totally or useing the Skeggaurd would be o.k. I would rather have it replaced if for a decent price and if the job would be done correct, straight and balanced. So a very good welder would be an utmost necesity. Any thoughts on this? Regards-Jack Graner.
posted 01-14-2001 09:29 AM ET (US)
Bobs machine also welds them on for you.The catalogue I have says 55.00 to replace skeg.You can ship it UPS and they send it back in one of there special gearcase boxes..I have had nosecones installed by them and they do really nice work.As long as its there I would have the welded torque tab put on,it really helps with steering torque.Those are 35.00 installed.
posted 01-14-2001 09:44 AM ET (US)
Although I do not have personal experience with them, I have read on other boards that the Skeg Guard will reduce your top speed considerably and will may produce severe corrosion problems in the space between the guard and the lower unit. For fresh water use, the corrosion problem should not be significant though.
posted 01-14-2001 09:53 AM ET (US)
Jack guess what all this boils down to is a 25 year old motor which I believe you will be replacing sometime in the near future -- so the cost factor is the key -- sending your lower unit down to Bob's UPS will cost what $xx, return shipping from them $xx, the cost of the fin $55.OO --- your time taking off/packaging and replacing the lower unit --- yeah just have to balance it out --- the skegguard will run you $110 from Cabela's including shipping --- your call buddy -- Tom
PS if she was a newer motor and I was going to keep her would probably go Bob's route if no local could handle it -- alum welding is ticky --
posted 01-14-2001 11:30 AM ET (US)
Yey guys, I think I will go the Skeggaurd route, cheaper-seasier, and top end spead isn`t a factor because I fish most of the time, no skiing, and the motor is overkill already. Thank you all so much for all of the great info. you gave me, the best site bar none, with the best boats bar none! Regards-Jack Graner.
|Lil Whaler Lover||
posted 01-14-2001 12:09 PM ET (US)
If your skeg is bent as yourindicated in one thread, the skeg guard will not fit correctly until it is straightened. As it is cast metal it may break when it is straightened. Be careful. Also if the skeg guard is not on tightly, the vibration it can cause will be a literal pain in the a**. Really do recommend fixing the problem not covering it up.
posted 01-14-2001 01:25 PM ET (US)
I have installed several skeg guards and have had very good luck.
I apply a liberal coat of epoxy prior to slipping it on and then drill and bolt it. No vibration.
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