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Author Topic:   Outrage 25 Repair
LarrySherman posted 01-22-2001 04:45 PM ET (US)   Profile for LarrySherman   Send Email to LarrySherman  
I just bought a 1980 Outrage 25, according to the Broker, the first one they ever built.

It has some serious gel coat problems in the bow, and needs other cosmetic work. I do not think there is a delamination problem, but am not sure.

A couple of questions:

1) does any one know if parts are availible for this boat? I would esp be interested in the forward floor boards, where the console mounts, as it is a little spongy.

2) Was this model capable of having a head? It would make my wife very happy! The hull under the deck apears to molded just like the cuddy, with a deck board over it.

3) Are replacment gas tanks avail, via BW or aftermarket? Mine is the original alum, and I understand this is not very desirable from a saftey consideration.

4)Where did Larry (of "whale Lure" fame) get his radar arch made? I would love to order one like it.

5) does anyone have documentation about this model boat: thru hulls, electrical, bilge pumps, etc...).

I'd really like to bring this boat back from the dead, but need some guidance/help.

Thanks in advance,

Larry Sherman

shermal@gcm.com

tbirdsey posted 01-22-2001 05:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for tbirdsey  Send Email to tbirdsey     
Larry: you moved fast on that boat!! I check several sites almost daily and I saw that one come up; I'm looking for a 25 also, but that one wasn't quite right for me. You have come to the right place for info - suggest you spend some time in the OEM section and will find sources for many parts.

Congratulations and good luck!

LarrySherman posted 01-22-2001 06:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman     
Thanks for the reply. I'll check through the OEM section.
lhg posted 01-22-2001 08:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Larry, since you directed part of your query to me, I'll try to give some info. My guess is that the spider cracking in the bow is going to require a spray-on gelcoat job. If you dig DEEP into the forum, you will be able to find a lot of discussion on this difficult job.

1. Whaler manufactured parts for this boat, such as some of the fiberglass & console components, may be hard to replace. As you may have read here, the Commercial Products Division would be your best source, but they are temporarily shut down for re-location. I'd call anyway and see what you can find out. A good LONG STANDING local Dealer (not the new Sea Ray variety) could also be a big help in finding what you need. Sometimes they have a lot of left over parts lying around. They can be a big help to you. The floor covers you need may still be available from them. These are made with 1/2" marine plywood backing, which is then roughed over with resin on the underside. You may also be able to restore these if the glass surface components are still good. I doubt if any of the teak components are available from the factory.

2. To the best of my knowledge, none of the models ever had a marine head. A porta potti will have to do.

3. The first 25's had dual 70 gal tanks. This was quickly replaced with a single 140.
I am surprised that someone told you alum tanks were no good. These are still being used in Whaler's more expensive models. Contact the factory for a source, or dig through the forum. I think this subject has come up, but I know you can get a new tank made if necessary.
Also, see Cetacea page 22 for Peter Ferguson's beautiful restoration job. You should contact him for advice, since he's done all of this.

4. My radar arch was made in 1991 by a firm in Jacksonville, whom Whaler referred me to.
They were being used by the factory for the arch/hardtop combo being sold on the 1991 23 Walkaround. I think they're out of business, but you should be able to get one of those made locally.

5. I have a lot of the info you need. I'll send you an e-mail. I pretty much know who the original manufacturer was of all the non-whaler items incorporated into the boat.
The "Marinium" bow lights and heavy duty cleats are no longer available, so if you have those, hang on to them for restoration.

Good luck with what sounds like a BIG project!

LarrySherman posted 01-23-2001 05:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman     
Refinishing info sent to me by boston whaler rep:

Refinishing Options
Gelcoat is the original finish on all Boston Whalers. I’d recommend using gelcoat for the most durable, longer lasting refinishing material.

*Any structural defects would have to be properly repaired before attempting to re-gelcoat.

For crazing, the easiest method for refinishing would involve prepping the original gelcoat first. I’d use 50-grit sandpaper to scuff up the finish and knock down any high spots or blend in any imperfections.
Blow off the surface with an air blast and then wipe with acetone (this will remove any dirt or wax left on the surface). Blow off the surface again, making sure any moisture, dust or acetone is completely out of the surface cracks.
Skim over the surface with either a marine filler or a gelcoat paste to fill in any imperfections.
After the filler is cured re-sand with 100-grit sandpaper to blend in and prepare for re-spraying.
Wipe with acetone as previously mentioned…
Mask off areas that are not to be re-finished.

*A surfacing agent or Wax should be added to the gelcoat when ordered. This is very important…without the wax the surface will remain sticky after curing…
I’d recommend thinning the gelcoat with Patch Aid…this product seems to work best, as far as giving a uniform finish with minimal yellowing and discoloration. Styrene or acetone can be used; however, the gelcoat may change colors after a short period of time (styrene) or leave pits (acetone)
*Experiment with thinning to match your particular conditions and equipment.

After the gelcoat is cured the surface will have to be sanded with several different grits before it can be buffed with an electric buffer and a good paste compound (made for gelcoat).
When using a regular sander I’d recommend using a 180 grit sandpaper first, to get the major orange peel removed, and then wet-sand with a 500 or even 600 grit before attempting to buff. If you have access to a DA (dual action) sander…240 grit and 600 should work fine before buffing.

If considering a polyurethane paint such as Awlgrip or Imron, use the same preparation to fill the imperfections. Then follow the manufacturer’s instructions for preparation. I believe a specific primer should be used in each case.
Regular boat paint would be the most economical method for re-finishing. Interlux or Petit are two of the most popular manufacturers. These can be sprayed or brushed according to the manufacturer’s instructions…


Boston Whaler gelcoats, resins, fiberglass, etc. are available through either….
Mini Craft of Florida…1-800-282-8244 (www.minicraft.com)
Or…
Spectrum Color…1-800-754-5516 (www.spectrumcolor.com)

Interlux Paints can be found at (www.yachtpaint.com)

LarrySherman posted 01-23-2001 05:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman     
Vendor contact list sent to me by bw rep:

Older & Newer Canvas
William J. Mills & Co.
74100 West Front St. PO Box 2126
Greenport, NY
Ph# 516-477-1500 or 1-800-477-1535 (www.millscanvas.com)


Older Cushions
Dave’s Custom Upholstery
Titusville, FL
Ph# 321-267-7028
Fax# 321-267-9855
(www.daves-upholstery.com)

Older Rails, W/Shields, Teak Pulpits, Swim Platforms, Custom Aluminum work, (contacts for mahogany replacement)
CMI Marine Attention:Fred Caldwell
Hingham, Mass.
Ph# 781-740-1260
Fax# 781-740-1261


Boston Whaler Gelcoats

East Coast: West Coast:
Mini-Craft of Florida Spectrum Color
Lakeland, Fl. Auburn, Wash.
Ph# 941-688-6591 Ph# 1-800-754-5516
Or 1-800-282-8244

lhg posted 01-23-2001 07:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Thanks for the informative posts, Larry. The only thing I would add to the gelcoat finishing process is to not stop the wet sanding with #600. I also go to #1000 and #1500 before switching to the compound. I have found this makes the polishing much quicker and makes the repair job undetectable.
LarrySherman posted 01-26-2001 05:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman     
Bought the West System Gelcoat repair guide. Very good information here.

When/if voids are found when checking the hull with the recommended rubber mallet, what is the correct repair procedure? spray in foam? microballons in epoxy? Will certian resins react with (degrade) the foam used in the hull?

Soooo many questions..

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