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Author Topic:   Norman Pins

hardensheetmetal posted 02-21-2001 04:49 PM ET (US)
I was wondering if anyone had cpme across a way of removing a norman pin without destroying it. Also, does anyone that has replaced these recall what they cost?
Thanks - Dan
Chesapeake posted 02-21-2001 06:10 PM ET (US)
Dan: This sounds goofy, but try pouring a bit of Coke on the joints. Let it sit and do it again. Find a piece of heavy rubber to protect the pins from your pipe wrenches. Wet the rubber and try the pipe wrenches in opposite directions.
This is how I got mine off and even then, the bite did a little bit of damage through the chrome into the brass.
Bob
triblet posted 02-21-2001 07:37 PM ET (US)
Two 5/8" box wrenches.
Chuck
Chesapeake posted 02-22-2001 08:47 AM ET (US)
Chuck: You are spot on with the newer Norman pins. They have a hex shape built into the hubs.
The problem I had on the original Norman pins was that they were completely round and had no place to grip.
So... If you have a whaler with the newer variety (I hope you do), Chuck's method is the way. If not, you may have to do something a bit more... creative, as my boat called for.
Bob
triblet posted 02-22-2001 09:50 AM ET (US)
And if you REALLY care about appearance,
use six sided box wrenches. This would
only be required for a concours quality
restoration. It wouldn't bother me a bit
to use 12 sided.
BTW, the norman pin on my Montauk is too
long for a deep socket.
Chuck
Landlocked posted 02-22-2001 10:24 PM ET (US)
What's a norman pin?
hardensheetmetal posted 02-22-2001 11:24 PM ET (US)
The opposite of an abnorman pin
hardensheetmetal posted 02-22-2001 11:31 PM ET (US)
Sorry, i couldn't resist. They are the cleats that whaler uses (used) on 9' through 17' boats. Its just a finished brass pin that threads together in the center.
Dan
triblet posted 02-23-2001 10:01 AM ET (US)
what sheetmetal didn't say is that the
Norman pin is used at the bow to tie
the anchor line off to.
Chuck
Cruiser posted 02-23-2001 02:06 PM ET (US)
Anybody have an undamaged norman pin for sale or know how much a new one is from a dealer?
Landlocked posted 02-23-2001 03:18 PM ET (US)
Thanks! I've got a norman pin and didn't even know it. Learn something new every day. That's why I keep coming back to this site.
Soho posted 02-23-2001 03:55 PM ET (US)
I just purchased a norman pin from Twincities Marine - cost 8$ See the posting below for details such as price and the e-mail address. FYI- I was considering having my old ones re-chromed, but for 8$ was not worth it. I might do this for the rear lifting eyes though as they are more expensive to buy.
Please respond to "tcmarine@lakefield.net" <tcmarine@lakefield.net>
Subject: RE: Norman Pins etc
February 15, 2001
Ron,
Sorry it took me an extra day to get the pricing that you requested.
* Norman pins @ 8.00, two required
* Rear, inside eye @ 22.00, three required if you do the bow and stern
* Rear, outside eye @ 27.00, three required if you do the bow and stern
* Stud, for the norman pin @ 3.51, one required
* Stud, bow eye @ 6.51, one required
* Stud, rear lifting eye @ 5.51, two required
Thank you,
Cheryl, Parts Dept.
hardensheetmetal posted 02-23-2001 04:04 PM ET (US)
Soho-
I was thinking about getting some other hardwar rechromed also (bow light/chock, rail stand-offs, bow/stern eyes, etc.) I would be interested to know if you have rechromed any of your hardware, how it turns out, where you got it done, and an approx. cost. I am having a hard time finding someone to do this work near me.
Dan
Soho posted 02-24-2001 07:34 AM ET (US)
Dan,
I have not had anything redone....yet. My rear inside lifting eyes are candidates, but one is bent slightly and they both have some "battle scars" on them ( 1969 Nauset..) so I am not sure whether to do them or just buy new ones at 22$ a piece. For all the other money I have pissed away on boats, another 44$ seems pretty immaterial. To answer your questions, I was looking at having a local company here ( in Bermuda ) do the work. ( no help to you I guess ) On the phone they estimated the cost of doing a a small piece at 7-10$ each. To be honest, I think that I will take one down to them to do just to see how it comes up. It will take me a couple of weeks to get it done I expect, I will report back on the results when complete.
Ciao,
Ron
Soho posted 02-24-2001 07:41 AM ET (US)
Dan,
Just reread your message. Noted the inclusion of the rail-standoffs and remembered that mine would be candidates for re-chroming as they need it and are not damaged at all. ( I had forgot about these... ) I will definately be taking one of them down to be done for a test - as noted before I will report back on progress.
Ciao,
Ron
stagalv posted 02-24-2001 10:24 AM ET (US)
Regarding rechroming...I took 15pcs which consisted of the 3 pcs of the bowlight/chock and 12 rail standoffs to a chrome shop in Houston. They charged $160 which I thought was quite expensive but they really look like new. At the time I didn't think about the norman pin or the lifting eyes or I would have done them too.

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Author	Topic: Norman Pins
hardensheetmetal	posted 02-21-2001 04:49 PM ET (US) I was wondering if anyone had cpme across a way of removing a norman pin without destroying it. Also, does anyone that has replaced these recall what they cost? Thanks - Dan
Chesapeake	posted 02-21-2001 06:10 PM ET (US) Dan: This sounds goofy, but try pouring a bit of Coke on the joints. Let it sit and do it again. Find a piece of heavy rubber to protect the pins from your pipe wrenches. Wet the rubber and try the pipe wrenches in opposite directions. This is how I got mine off and even then, the bite did a little bit of damage through the chrome into the brass. Bob
triblet	posted 02-21-2001 07:37 PM ET (US) Two 5/8" box wrenches. Chuck
Chesapeake	posted 02-22-2001 08:47 AM ET (US) Chuck: You are spot on with the newer Norman pins. They have a hex shape built into the hubs. The problem I had on the original Norman pins was that they were completely round and had no place to grip. So... If you have a whaler with the newer variety (I hope you do), Chuck's method is the way. If not, you may have to do something a bit more... creative, as my boat called for. Bob
triblet	posted 02-22-2001 09:50 AM ET (US) And if you REALLY care about appearance, use six sided box wrenches. This would only be required for a concours quality restoration. It wouldn't bother me a bit to use 12 sided. BTW, the norman pin on my Montauk is too long for a deep socket. Chuck
Landlocked	posted 02-22-2001 10:24 PM ET (US) What's a norman pin?
hardensheetmetal	posted 02-22-2001 11:24 PM ET (US) The opposite of an abnorman pin
hardensheetmetal	posted 02-22-2001 11:31 PM ET (US) Sorry, i couldn't resist. They are the cleats that whaler uses (used) on 9' through 17' boats. Its just a finished brass pin that threads together in the center. Dan
triblet	posted 02-23-2001 10:01 AM ET (US) what sheetmetal didn't say is that the Norman pin is used at the bow to tie the anchor line off to. Chuck
Cruiser	posted 02-23-2001 02:06 PM ET (US) Anybody have an undamaged norman pin for sale or know how much a new one is from a dealer?
Landlocked	posted 02-23-2001 03:18 PM ET (US) Thanks! I've got a norman pin and didn't even know it. Learn something new every day. That's why I keep coming back to this site.
Soho	posted 02-23-2001 03:55 PM ET (US) I just purchased a norman pin from Twincities Marine - cost 8$ See the posting below for details such as price and the e-mail address. FYI- I was considering having my old ones re-chromed, but for 8$ was not worth it. I might do this for the rear lifting eyes though as they are more expensive to buy. Please respond to "tcmarine@lakefield.net" <tcmarine@lakefield.net> Subject: RE: Norman Pins etc February 15, 2001 Ron, Sorry it took me an extra day to get the pricing that you requested. * Norman pins @ 8.00, two required * Rear, inside eye @ 22.00, three required if you do the bow and stern * Rear, outside eye @ 27.00, three required if you do the bow and stern * Stud, for the norman pin @ 3.51, one required * Stud, bow eye @ 6.51, one required * Stud, rear lifting eye @ 5.51, two required Thank you, Cheryl, Parts Dept.
hardensheetmetal	posted 02-23-2001 04:04 PM ET (US) Soho- I was thinking about getting some other hardwar rechromed also (bow light/chock, rail stand-offs, bow/stern eyes, etc.) I would be interested to know if you have rechromed any of your hardware, how it turns out, where you got it done, and an approx. cost. I am having a hard time finding someone to do this work near me. Dan
Soho	posted 02-24-2001 07:34 AM ET (US) Dan, I have not had anything redone....yet. My rear inside lifting eyes are candidates, but one is bent slightly and they both have some "battle scars" on them ( 1969 Nauset..) so I am not sure whether to do them or just buy new ones at 22$ a piece. For all the other money I have pissed away on boats, another 44$ seems pretty immaterial. To answer your questions, I was looking at having a local company here ( in Bermuda ) do the work. ( no help to you I guess ) On the phone they estimated the cost of doing a a small piece at 7-10$ each. To be honest, I think that I will take one down to them to do just to see how it comes up. It will take me a couple of weeks to get it done I expect, I will report back on the results when complete. Ciao, Ron
Soho	posted 02-24-2001 07:41 AM ET (US) Dan, Just reread your message. Noted the inclusion of the rail-standoffs and remembered that mine would be candidates for re-chroming as they need it and are not damaged at all. ( I had forgot about these... ) I will definately be taking one of them down to be done for a test - as noted before I will report back on progress. Ciao, Ron
stagalv	posted 02-24-2001 10:24 AM ET (US) Regarding rechroming...I took 15pcs which consisted of the 3 pcs of the bowlight/chock and 12 rail standoffs to a chrome shop in Houston. They charged $160 which I thought was quite expensive but they really look like new. At the time I didn't think about the norman pin or the lifting eyes or I would have done them too.