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Author Topic:   Advice on Steering Replacement
John Fitzgerald posted 03-02-2001 04:33 PM ET (US)   Profile for John Fitzgerald   Send Email to John Fitzgerald  
Last summer I bought a 78 13 foot with a right hand console and an 88 Johnson 40hp. The steering is cable & pulley and everyone who has looked at it says it is dangerous and should be replaced. They were right I had a pulley failure AND a cable failure - pretty exciting. I don't really care about cost, just want the simplest, easiest system that will put the minimum holes in the hull. Does anyone have any experience. Is hydraulic ok? Teleflex?
Soho posted 03-02-2001 04:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Soho  Send Email to Soho     
Teleflex is probably the way to go; not too expensive, easy to install and long lasting. You do not need hydralic on a 13.

Just my opinion....



stagalv posted 03-02-2001 11:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
While we are on the subject of steering... I am rebuilding my whole Montauk and guess I had better replace the steering as well. Do any of you know about the NFB (no feed-back system)? Do I need one of these or should I just go with the standard quick connect cable? Rex
whalernut posted 03-03-2001 06:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalernut  Send Email to whalernut     
Rex, the first question to ask yourself is: Did you have alot of feedback and steering control problems with you`re old steering setup? If not stick with the older style conection, if so try to switch to the no-feedback style. I don`t have any problems with the old style with my `16 Currituck, no torque or feedback problems. I only drove one vessel with the n-feedback steering and did not like the feel of it, it seems to be tight and not a responsive as the older style, it was on a `17 Dauntless 95`. I really don`t know the price differences? Regards-Jack Graner. P.S. Maybee I am just weird, but I loved the feel of the old pulley steering on my old 71` `13 Sport,(also was on my 61` `19 Lyman) wish I never would of sold them!
Tom Byrum posted 03-03-2001 09:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom Byrum  Send Email to Tom Byrum     
I just installed hydraulic steering on my Outrage. What a difference! Go hydraulic if the budjet allows for it.
stagalv posted 03-03-2001 12:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
Thanks Jack. I bought the Montauk without an engine so I have not run it yet to tell you how the steering felt. I am kind of starting from scratch. Any others? Feedback or no feedback steering? Rex
DIVE 1 posted 03-03-2001 07:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for DIVE 1    
Your Montauk is rated at 100HP max. The Teleflex standard or NFB system will both work fine. I am partial to the NFB after installing a system on a 16'7" BW with an 85HP outboard. The steering is smooth and easy compared to the old system that had a lot of engine torque on the wheel.
Ray posted 03-03-2001 09:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Ray  Send Email to Ray     
Reworked a 20 Revenge last year and replaced the old dual cable system with a NFB system. Wow what a smooth operating system... I certainly would do it again. It had a 175 Evinrude. Also my 25 REvenge has hydraulic and I'd go with the NFB anytime. On the 13 or 17 it may be a different ballgame, however setting a course and not haveing to touch the wheel especially when trolling etc. is wonderful
Hank posted 03-03-2001 11:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Hank  Send Email to Hank     
I installed the standard teleflex on my '84 Montauk. (Original was standard). It works fine. I definitely feel engine steering torque in the steering system, but I find it helps me to adjust trim.
No engine steering torque equals proper trim adjustment. I have no experience with the NF system for comparison.
AZdave posted 03-05-2001 02:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for AZdave  Send Email to AZdave     
I replaced wheels and cables with the simplest (and cheapest) Teleflex system on my '68 13' Sport. With a new 30hp Yamaha, I can't see that I would need a "no feedback system". I think yours has a transom with no center cutout. This should be a very simple installation. The older models with the lower transoms need anouther part (available from Teleflex). If you plan to retain the original console, check on clearance. The rotary helm might be less trouble to install than the rack and pinion type. The new steering works great!
RHLOOS posted 03-05-2001 11:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for RHLOOS  Send Email to RHLOOS     
azdave, what additional part did you need for steering up-grade. how did the helm work with your console/bezel. did you purchase a new plastic bezel with your steering you truly feel NFB is not necessary. have a 40hp 4-stroke, can currently feel engine torque with existing cables/pulleys, ready to order from west marine, would like any feedback/comments ROB
lhg posted 03-05-2001 12:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Since the introduction of Teleflex NFB mechanical steering, it is the only way to go for Montauk and smaller Whalers. The additional cost is minimal. Biggest problem with any mechanical steering is corrosion and binding in the engine tilt tube. Be sure to replace the engine's standard nut/o-ring with one of the SS nuts containing a grease zerk (about $20). This will allow you to easily keep the tilt tube greased and clean. Service it frequently and replace the O-ring annually!

As mentioned by Tom, hydraulic is worth it's weight in gold, especially for any twin installation or boat 18' and up. It would also be great on a Montauk, but many would not consider it worth the 4 times cost multiplier, which is why BW doesn't use it on the Montauk.

AZdave posted 03-11-2001 12:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for AZdave  Send Email to AZdave     
The extra part I needed was a stand-off which needed to be mounted on the transom of my older boat. This is because the combination of cut-down and curve in the transom causes binding when the ram from a Teleflex system is fed through the pivot tube in the normal way. There is no problem getting this from Teleflex, and I don't think it is needed for later boats with the higher transom. I can't tell you about fitting a new helm to the existing console. I decided to get the rack and pinion type helm rather than the rotary form. I made a new console to fit it. I don't think the rack would fit well in the original console as it is hard to bend the cable to the rear as it comes out of the console. The rotary helm probably would be much easier to fit. I made a taller and thinner console with the wheel in a more vertical plane. I might not do that again. I used the original wheel again, and combined with the shaft and bezel it intrudes in my space. I replaced the console due to damage and a lovely coat of blue paint which had been applied over the original (weathered) mahagony. Best wishes, Dave

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