Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: Rivet removal|
posted 03-10-2001 10:06 PM ET (US)
Anybody know the trick to removing the rivets on the rubrail without taking chunks of fiberglass out of the boat? I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 03-10-2001 11:06 PM ET (US)
Use a drill to drill the heads off the rivets. The rub rail is typically held on with 3/16" pop rivets, so use a 3/16" drill bit and the rivet head will come off after you've drilled through the head and into the shank. Once the head is gone, you simply push the remainder of the rivet into the hole. If you are installing new rub rail after this be sure to drill your new holes away from the old ones so you get a good grip.
posted 03-11-2001 06:03 PM ET (US)
I agree. Don't forget to fill the old rivet holes with 5200. My two cents
posted 03-11-2001 06:25 PM ET (US)
A thickened West epoxy injected into the holes with a syringe works great. Besides being water-proof, it doesn't matter much where you drill your holes for the replacement rail.
posted 03-11-2001 10:41 PM ET (US)
Bob, that is just what I did too. I bought a syringe and some epoxy and injected it. I certainly dont want any old holes to let water in to the core.
It was a chore getting the rivets out. I found the drill to be the best way as well.
posted 03-12-2001 03:46 PM ET (US)
Just got through my second rubrail replacement. Follow above advice. Drill out the rivits with a 1/8 to 3/16 drill. You will know that you have the right size when the flange on the rivit remains on the drill bit after you have drilled through. You won't actually be able to get all the rivit out of the fiberglass. The 'barrel' of the rivit will stay put or will puch through into the foam. Fill the holes with 5200 or west system epoxy and repair any other damage along the gunnel. I used stainless steel pan head sheel metal screws rather than rivits to install the new two piece Barbour rub rail.
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