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Author Topic:   Boat off the Trailer Ideas
tightloops posted 03-26-2001 07:42 PM ET (US)   Profile for tightloops   Send Email to tightloops  
Anyone with suggestions on getting a Monatuk off the trailer to strip old bottom paint?

Thanks, Dan

tbirdsey posted 03-26-2001 08:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for tbirdsey  Send Email to tbirdsey     
lhg had a interesting post a while ago on this subject. Many years ago, I essentially pulled the trailer out from under my Nauset just enough to support the stern on blocks and then hung the bow from the limb of a very large maple tree overhanging the driveway, lifting it off the trailer with a come-along. It worked great!
Tom W Clark posted 03-26-2001 10:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
It's pretty easy to put the boat on blocks or even on the lawn by just pulling the trailer out from under it. I've done this to work on the trailer. But if you are working on the bottom, you really want it free and clear. What I did with my Montauk was simply use three lengths of 1/4" chain and a bunch of small shackles to make a harness to suspend the boat from. (much like the Outrage in the Pier Head Leaps on cetacea page 34) I used the lifting eyes on the inside of the hull for attatchment. The other ends of the chain were brought together at a single point and attatched to a beam in my carport. The trailer was then pulled out from under it. I used a line from the transom to something solid to resist the up-swinging tendency as I pulled the trailer out. I didn't have to lift the boat completely off the trailer before I pulled it out from under. I did use the tongue jack to lift the boat as high as possible before making the final connection to the beam, then I lowered the tongue jack down to the level of my truck's hitch. This effectively took some of the boat's weight off the trailer before It was pulled out from under. The use of chain instead of rope prevented any stretching and allowed a greater "pre-load" on the harness. Putting the trailer back was equally simple: just winch it under as if you are pulling the boat out of the water at the ramp.

This technique would also work with two suspention points, fore and aft. But in my case the single point from which the boat hung allowed me to swivel the boat around to any position I liked. Obviously one would need something strong enough to support the weight of one's boat, but a beam or even a tree limb might be able to support a Montauks's c. 1300 lbs.

whalerron posted 03-26-2001 11:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
I used the tree method with mine. I tied the stern to a tree and pulled the trailer out from under the boat about 2 feet. I then put a railroad tie on blocks under the stern. Then I put blocks between the hull and the tie to keep the boat from rocking. Next I pulled the trailer about 2/3 of the way out from under the boat. I put a wood block under keel just forward of the console and then pulled the trailer the rest of the way out. When I finished painting the bottom, I started to pull the trailer back under the boat with the winch. As the portions of the hull, that were on the blocks, became accessible, I sanded and painted them.

I don't like that idea of working under a boat that is hanging in the air. I used to get the willy-nillies from doing that when our cabin cruiser was hanging on a marine lift. It scared me there because every once in a great while, I heard stories of a lift strap breaking and somebody's nice boat getting dropped on the asphalt. I just had visions of being squished.

JimU posted 03-28-2001 10:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
It's a peice of cake assuming your engine is off. Tie the transome to a tree and pull the trailor out from under it slowly. Its a two man job. To move it on the ground, get a piece of three-inch schedule 40 pvc pipe and cut it into three foot sections. Put these under the keel as rollers and move it where you want to--again a two man job. To flip the boat over get a couple of old tires and put them down to protect the gunnel then roll the boat over. This is a two (big) man job. My son (big man) and I did it ourselves. A third hand would have made it easier. Good luck. JImU
Chesapeake posted 03-28-2001 03:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Jim:

Ingenious idea. I was thinking I would have to call a bunch of friends over to do this. I am trying to think how to adapt your idea to be able to take my 16 off the trailer still in the garage. (I live on a small hill and so trying to push this up the hill on PVC rollers might be a stretch.

Thanks for the ideas.

Bob

JimU posted 03-28-2001 05:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
Bob, if you want to di in the garage you ll have to be careful when you pull the trailer from under the boat. You don't want the hull to bounce on the concrete. Put a couple of tires under the stern and pull forward slowly. Have your assistant "help" the boat onto the tires when it gets near the balance point. Its even easieer if you have a tilt trailor. JIM
Eric posted 04-01-2001 08:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
One IMPORTANT point to remember, if using cement blocks: people use them to support other heavy weights, like when working under cars. Occasionally, you'll hear of a death from the block crumbling. They are not made to support loads in this manner. I know of this first hand, as it happened to the brother of an aquaintance. DON'T use blocks if working underneath, getting squashed is a bad way to go.
lhg posted 04-01-2001 09:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Above point is well taken. Most concrete blocks fail because they are laid on their side, rather than upright the way they would go into a wall. Always use them upright, and put a piece of 2 x 8 across the top to distribute the load to the block's webs. Here, there is good strength. The totally solid blocks are also safe to use, but heavy to manage.

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