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Author Topic:   Interlux interstrip experience

tightloops posted 04-15-2001 12:04 AM ET (US)
Today I got my montauk of the trailer and upside down to strip the bottom paint...I decided to use interstrip because it works faster...and kills brain cells faster...
After a two hour gel soak, I started to scrape the paint off, only one layer though...it did not work as well as I thought and I guess I am going to have to do another coat...will I be able to get all the blue off with stripper and scraping or will I have to sand as well? I plan on painting with VC Underwater so how much of this old paint should I try to get off? Also as the gooey paint fell off the side...it got all over the side of the boat and other clean white areas which really ticked me off. Will that come off or did I basically spill paint on the boat?
This day of work sure didn't end the way I had visioned, and I am somewhat down. Anyone have any advice on what to do next? Thanks.
Dan
Outraged posted 04-15-2001 12:19 PM ET (US)
Tightloops, the first thing you should do if you haven`t already, is get the stuff off the hull. Try some dewaxer or acetone. As far as the stripping goes, most of the time is does require repeated applications to get it all off. You should have the bottom as clean as possible, before your next step. The bottom should be lightly scuffed b/4 painting, this should also help clean up the areas the stripper didn`t quite get. Interlux has a help line # 1-800-468-7589 for further info. Hope this helps you out.
jimh posted 04-15-2001 01:58 PM ET (US)
Maybe a trip through the "quarter"-car-wash and some high pressure hot soapy water will get some of the bottom paint off before the next application of the stripper.
Taking some bottom paint off my 20-Revenge is on the list of projects for this summer, so I am interested in your results.
--jimh
Peter posted 04-15-2001 02:33 PM ET (US)
I started to strip the bottom paint off my Revenge 22 this weekend with the Peel-Away stripper. On some places on the hull there was probably more than 10 layers of bottom paint and in other spots it was down to the gelcoat (imagine that the surface kind of looking like craters on the surface of the moon). On a test spot I applied the stripping paste as directed, covered it with the paper supplied and removed the air bubbles as directed. I allowed the covered paste to remain in contact with the bottom paint in the test spot for approximately two hours. At the end of two hours, I began peeling the paper from the hull to see how well it worked. Clearly, the paste softened some of the layers of the paint. Some of the softened paint stuck to the paper. I ran a broad putty knife along the paper while peeling to allow the paper to catch the paint peeled by the knife. Based on the two hour duration at a temperature of about 65 deg. F, I would say that about 3 to 5 layers of paint were softened by the solution and removed by the putty knife. Another application of the paste will be required to get down to the gelcoat. My goal is to get as many layers off as possible but not to have a "bare" hull. I will be repainting with ablative bottom paint to prevent this type of build-up from occuring again. Some initial advice is to make sure the temperature is above 60 and preferrably above 70. Be patient, give the paste time to work. Also, as tightloops notes, this procedure makes a mess with gooey, gloppy paint residue, so make sure your ground or other surfaces are covered.
bigz posted 04-15-2001 02:54 PM ET (US)
Peter just a suggestion --- you might want to remove all the paint to a bare hull condition then fill any pock areas and use at least two coats of barrier coating before doing your ablative paint --- this will seal the hull giving you a nice clean smooth hard surface to apply it --- and in the future make it easier to re-do as necessay.
Even if you weren't going to use a bottom paint just strip the hull you would still want to seal it with at least two coats of a barrier coating.
Tom
tightloops posted 04-15-2001 08:29 PM ET (US)
Please tell me that the stripped paint that dripped onto clean areas will come off easily with a solvent of some sort...? Also, I plan to apply VC Underwater to the hull after getting all the old paint off. Would it be a bad idea to apply it all the way up to the rail, or should i apply it below the waterline only? Thanks...Dan
Chesapeake posted 04-15-2001 11:09 PM ET (US)
Big Z -- What barrier coat would you recommend? Thanks, Bob
bigz posted 04-16-2001 09:10 AM ET (US)
Bob most of the professionals I know (in 4 different yards) all seemed to agree on the Interlux InterProtect either 2000 or 3000 barrier coat.
Dan as was mentioned it can be removed easily if done asap with acetone or if that ain't doing the trick try Interlux 202 Fiberglass solvent wash, if it has totally set up again use your stripper and then clean the area immediately with one of the above.
Below the waterline only Dan, these bottom paints have no UV inhibitors and are not designed for top side use --- what I said about barrier coatings applies here as well even though VC is a hard coat product the hull after stripping needs to be sealed ---
Good luck Tom

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Author	Topic: Interlux interstrip experience
tightloops	posted 04-15-2001 12:04 AM ET (US) Today I got my montauk of the trailer and upside down to strip the bottom paint...I decided to use interstrip because it works faster...and kills brain cells faster... After a two hour gel soak, I started to scrape the paint off, only one layer though...it did not work as well as I thought and I guess I am going to have to do another coat...will I be able to get all the blue off with stripper and scraping or will I have to sand as well? I plan on painting with VC Underwater so how much of this old paint should I try to get off? Also as the gooey paint fell off the side...it got all over the side of the boat and other clean white areas which really ticked me off. Will that come off or did I basically spill paint on the boat? This day of work sure didn't end the way I had visioned, and I am somewhat down. Anyone have any advice on what to do next? Thanks. Dan
Outraged	posted 04-15-2001 12:19 PM ET (US) Tightloops, the first thing you should do if you haven`t already, is get the stuff off the hull. Try some dewaxer or acetone. As far as the stripping goes, most of the time is does require repeated applications to get it all off. You should have the bottom as clean as possible, before your next step. The bottom should be lightly scuffed b/4 painting, this should also help clean up the areas the stripper didn`t quite get. Interlux has a help line # 1-800-468-7589 for further info. Hope this helps you out.
jimh	posted 04-15-2001 01:58 PM ET (US) Maybe a trip through the "quarter"-car-wash and some high pressure hot soapy water will get some of the bottom paint off before the next application of the stripper. Taking some bottom paint off my 20-Revenge is on the list of projects for this summer, so I am interested in your results. --jimh
Peter	posted 04-15-2001 02:33 PM ET (US) I started to strip the bottom paint off my Revenge 22 this weekend with the Peel-Away stripper. On some places on the hull there was probably more than 10 layers of bottom paint and in other spots it was down to the gelcoat (imagine that the surface kind of looking like craters on the surface of the moon). On a test spot I applied the stripping paste as directed, covered it with the paper supplied and removed the air bubbles as directed. I allowed the covered paste to remain in contact with the bottom paint in the test spot for approximately two hours. At the end of two hours, I began peeling the paper from the hull to see how well it worked. Clearly, the paste softened some of the layers of the paint. Some of the softened paint stuck to the paper. I ran a broad putty knife along the paper while peeling to allow the paper to catch the paint peeled by the knife. Based on the two hour duration at a temperature of about 65 deg. F, I would say that about 3 to 5 layers of paint were softened by the solution and removed by the putty knife. Another application of the paste will be required to get down to the gelcoat. My goal is to get as many layers off as possible but not to have a "bare" hull. I will be repainting with ablative bottom paint to prevent this type of build-up from occuring again. Some initial advice is to make sure the temperature is above 60 and preferrably above 70. Be patient, give the paste time to work. Also, as tightloops notes, this procedure makes a mess with gooey, gloppy paint residue, so make sure your ground or other surfaces are covered.
bigz	posted 04-15-2001 02:54 PM ET (US) Peter just a suggestion --- you might want to remove all the paint to a bare hull condition then fill any pock areas and use at least two coats of barrier coating before doing your ablative paint --- this will seal the hull giving you a nice clean smooth hard surface to apply it --- and in the future make it easier to re-do as necessay. Even if you weren't going to use a bottom paint just strip the hull you would still want to seal it with at least two coats of a barrier coating. Tom
tightloops	posted 04-15-2001 08:29 PM ET (US) Please tell me that the stripped paint that dripped onto clean areas will come off easily with a solvent of some sort...? Also, I plan to apply VC Underwater to the hull after getting all the old paint off. Would it be a bad idea to apply it all the way up to the rail, or should i apply it below the waterline only? Thanks...Dan
Chesapeake	posted 04-15-2001 11:09 PM ET (US) Big Z -- What barrier coat would you recommend? Thanks, Bob
bigz	posted 04-16-2001 09:10 AM ET (US) Bob most of the professionals I know (in 4 different yards) all seemed to agree on the Interlux InterProtect either 2000 or 3000 barrier coat. Dan as was mentioned it can be removed easily if done asap with acetone or if that ain't doing the trick try Interlux 202 Fiberglass solvent wash, if it has totally set up again use your stripper and then clean the area immediately with one of the above. Below the waterline only Dan, these bottom paints have no UV inhibitors and are not designed for top side use --- what I said about barrier coatings applies here as well even though VC is a hard coat product the hull after stripping needs to be sealed --- Good luck Tom