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Author Topic:   Portable Gas tank hold downs in 13
printjunky posted 04-22-2001 10:37 PM ET (US)   Profile for printjunky   Send Email to printjunky  
Trolling for ideas on mounting hold downs for gas tank on my ol' 13. Maybe under front seat to get some weight forward? As we all know screwing to the skin is a no-no, so how to secure where theres no wood underneath? Same question with the battery hold down too.
Thanks for any info,
beby138 posted 04-23-2001 06:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for beby138  Send Email to beby138     
I have one on my 13'68,first placed a piece of wood from an old seat on the floor to make a flat bed , covered w/ an oil resistant pad for tool box bought from Sears (this to avoid friction),made a notch 6"x4" for the gas intake on the seat toward stern , then made a bracket from a 2"W x 1/2"D x 10"H acrylic piece like a Z with right angle ,covered w/the same pad and screwed down on the seat,2 in the back and 1 on the front,hope this help.
Paint Legend posted 04-25-2001 03:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Paint Legend  Send Email to Paint Legend     
For screwing to areas without proper backing, check out the West System Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance Manual for some interesting ideas.

The best $3.00 you'll spend on repairing your boat.


lhg posted 04-25-2001 05:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
printjunky - There is precious little wood under the inside floor of the original design 13' Whaler, pre 1973. JimH does not have a wood locating drawing for one of these models in the Reference section, but the only wood in the floor is where the console leg is attached. Hence, attaching anything to the floor risks delaminating the glass skin from the foam, destroying needed hull strength.

Regarding gas tanks, the Owners manual says:
"Six gallon tanks are best stored behind the rear seat on 13' Sport models. There is room for a battery and two tanks, with ther long axis fore and aft. They should be placed on our tank mats. These prevent movement, protect the floor from chipping and prevent tank rust from bleeding into the blue interior." They do not say they should be anchored down. All this being said, if you are using one of the newer Tempo long, low tanks that fit under the seat, I would think Tempo's teak block kit could be used to keep the tank held in place. The biggest risk of skin delamination is from "withdrawl" pressure being exerted on a fitting screwed into the floor, and the blocks, without strap attached, would only be functioning against perpendicular sliding force.

Regarding battery installation in a 13, I'll bet most are done wrong. Here is what the manual says on this issue:

"batteries should be located aft for best weight trim. On 13' Whalers, the battery strap cleats should be THROUGH BOLTED to the AFT (long straight) BULKHEAD as shown (it is shown being mounted off center, length of battery sideways, in front of and against the transom splashwall). Don't use screws in this area as there is no wood behind the glass, and NONE in the floor. Use 1" wooden blocks for spacing the battery box away from the bulkhead to make room for the lip of the cover." What is unusual about this is that the strap eyes are NOT mounted on the floor, but rather through BOLTED to the splash wall.
So the battery strap holds the battery in place to the wall, not the floor!

Regarding the West system "fiberglass repair booklet" mentioned above. I think it is a good reference manual to have, but in comparing it to Boston Whaler's recommended hull repair instructions (which I have), there is little in the West book that applies to Boston Whaler's unique hull systems repair requirements. I would think that West's PRODUCTS are probably great for repairing Whalers, but their recommended procedures are not applicable from what I can tell. Boston Whalers take different procedures to insure the skin/foam bond and resulting structural strength remain. This is perhaps why so many BW's have "gained weight" from improper hull repairs, where they have just been "loaded up" with resin.

One of West's standard recommendations when mounting something into glass skin, with no wood backing underneath (BW says never to do this unless it's a light weight item) is to, in effect, create a Molly/toggle bolt effect out of a little resin plug (the little bent nail scrape out method). My BW Owners manuals, both in 1971 and in 1989, say this can have the same effect on a Whaler to part (pop) the skin from the foam, destroying the hull bond. The only place the resin plug method would be appropriate would be in repairing a stripped out hole in the PLYWOOD/Whalerwood backing pad already in the hull.

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