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Author Topic:   Loose center console: 17' Montauk 1983
Mark D posted 04-24-2001 07:53 AM ET (US)   Profile for Mark D  
The wood rails screwed to the floor which the center console are fastened to are rotten. What would be the best and fastest solution to this problem?
Does the entire console have to be removed in order to complete the job?
Arch Autenreith posted 04-24-2001 09:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
Mark D. Just dealt with the exact same thing. Have to remove the consol tho. I didn't see and easy way around this, sorry. Ended up using 2 half inch thick pieces (per side) of starboard laminated. 5200 and re-screw into place as new 'feet' then re-mount the consol. Can provide pictures easy enough if you need. 2 day job. I also like this as it raised the consol 1 inch. If I had to do it all over again, I might like 2 inches.
Arch Autenreith posted 04-24-2001 12:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
Mark D. Forgot to say I really didn't have to remove the consol. I just unscrewed it at the base and tilted it forward to lean on the front cover area. This way of course I didn't have to disconnect all the cables and wiring.
Dan posted 04-24-2001 02:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dan  Send Email to Dan     
My suggestion: A) Remove the screws at base of console. B) Gather the wires and stuff that come through the tunnel and try to get yourself a foot or more of slack -- then lift and slide the console to one side so that one of the wooden base supports is visible. C) Remove the support. Do the same with the opposite side. You probably should have a few pieces of 2x4 handy to support the floor of the console from below and lift away from deck if needed. D) Replace the supports with new ones. E) Re-assemble. I'm sure others on the board will add/improve this procedure. Good luck.
Mark D posted 04-25-2001 07:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for Mark D    
Yes I would like to see photos of fix. Raising the console 2" sounds great. I look forward to seeing your photos.
lhg posted 04-25-2001 02:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I have raised the Montauk (standard) consoles in my Outrages 4", and it's great. If I ever owned a Montauk, it's the first thing I'd do!

I have always thought both the console and Reversible Pilot Seat in the Montauk are TOO LOW! It's designed for a person about 5'6".

compounder posted 04-26-2001 10:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for compounder  Send Email to compounder     
Mark, after having my console literally fall into my lap while accellerating, I got rid of the wood altogether.

Replaced it with right-angle aluminum laid on the deck and screwed down. Then through bolted the console with SS bolts,fender washers, and ny-lock nuts.

Steady as she goes, and no worry about wood rot!


lhg posted 04-27-2001 12:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
That's the way the Outrage consoles are attached, using the aluminium angle.
Mark D posted 04-27-2001 06:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for Mark D    
I saw a 17' Outrage yesterday with the setup your talking about. As far as the right angle aluminium where do I get that? Also, where the console meets the deck is not a perfect right angle. Can you give further instuctions.
Arch Autenreith posted 04-27-2001 10:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
Mark. I didn't realize the '83 didn't have the aluminum angle for feet. My '84 does so I guess my 'fix' will be different for yours. I'll send how I did it to you anyhow FYI.
compounder posted 04-27-2001 10:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for compounder  Send Email to compounder     
Mark, it's been about 10 years now since I made the repair, but I found the aluminum strips at the local hardware store. I suspect they were leftovers of some kind since they were in a large wooden barrel with various sizes and lengths.

I chose one that is about 1" on one side and 1.5" on the other and pretty heavy gauge....perfect for my application.

Sorry I can't be of more help on current availability, but it should not be a hard-to-find item.


Tom W Clark posted 04-27-2001 11:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Mark D,

The aluminum angle need not be more than 90 degrees. It will 'nest' in quite nicely. I do not believe what Whaler uses (or used) is any different than what you can buy at the hardware store. I suspect that compounder's 1 x 1.5 is what Whaler used. You will have to drill and countersink the holes in the aluminum if you want to use the Whaler style teak trim on top of the aluminum. The teak trim hides the structural fasterners and is itself attatched with Phillips oval head screws with finish washers.

Perhaps someone with an Outrage could measure the length of the legs on the aluminum angle as well as the thickness and the layout of the screw holes as well as the screw/bolt sizes.

lhg posted 04-27-2001 02:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Further to Tom's message, I have the Whaler parts diagram showing console details. Unfortunately, they don't indicate the size of the aluminium angle,(I'd guess about 1" x 2") but there are 3 sets of screws involved: all phillips head

1. to THROUGH BOLT the console to the aluminium angle: 1/4 x 20, length 1 3/4" flat head, and countersunk flush into aluminium angle verticle leg as Tom indicated. quantity 5

2. to screw angle to boat floor: #14 x 1 1/2
flat head, countersunk flush into aluminium.
quantity 8. Unusual spacing with 2 groups of 3 and a center group of 2.

3. to screw on the teak covering trim: #10 x 1 1/2", with finishing washer.

Tom W Clark posted 04-27-2001 04:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Excellent, Larry. I just stopped by my local Dealer, Jabobsen's Boats & Motors, and as they almost always do, they had a couple of Whalers sitting around for service. I took a couple of shots of an Outrage 18 which show the mounting of the console.

I also mearured the aluminum angle. Larry is correct, it is 1" x 2", 3/16" thick. It is 26" in length. The teak cover piece is 25 1/2" long and is 3/4" thick at its base, 1/2" thick at the top and stands c. 1 5/8" tall. The top edge has a 1/4" radius. The four screws that hold it in place are spaced 7" o.c. starting 2 1/4" in from the end.

I now think the 1 x 2 angle may be harder to find. Most of the hardware store angle that I've seen has only equal length legs. Whether Whaler made the angle from anodized aluminum or rather milled the aluminum and then had it anodized, I do not know. Knowing how Whaler used to do things, I would suspect the latter.

compounder posted 04-27-2001 05:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for compounder  Send Email to compounder     
Very interesting! At the time of my repair I had no idea Whaler used aluminum strips.....if they were indeed using them circa 1990. I was just looking for an alternative to the wood used as original equipment.

Not being a real craftsman, I just used the aluminum pieces inboard of the bottom of the console. No aluminum shows. Along the outside lower edge of the console all you see is the SS bolt heads and SS fender washers. May sound strange, but I sort of like the "industrial" look this gives.


Tom W Clark posted 04-27-2001 07:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Still unable to find a source for the aluminum angle. The closest I've found is 1" x 2" x 1/8" thick. A five foot piece would cost $11.67 + shipping. You can see it at:

If I find another source I will post here.

marc monreal posted 05-02-2001 09:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for marc monreal  Send Email to marc monreal     
Tom... I was able to find 1.5" X 1.5" by 1/8" aluminum angle iron at THE HOME DEPOT for less than $9.00 a piece. they come in 32 inch sections. I used this size and mounted them on 2" synthetic risers that I anchored to the deck. This new set-up gave me over 2" of added height to the counsel,still looks stock with new teak trim piece and is strong as hell! Entire project took one very long day. Good luck, MARC
LarrySherman posted 05-03-2001 01:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman     
My Outrage had the same problem (81' 25) but the mounting system was 2x1.5 teak through bolted to alum plates which are subsequently bolted to the deck. I replaced the teak but have not quite figured out what to do about the alum plates. they are mildly pitted, and I'm not sure if I should do anything about it. As I understand it, the white corosion (sp) on alum actually forms a protective barrier. Is this true?

Mark D, if you want to go teak, I'd be glad to make up the parts for you and fed-ex them to you. I've accumulated quite a bit of extra teak odd size pieces.


Kelly posted 05-10-2001 08:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for Kelly  Send Email to Kelly     
I recently purchased a new Montauk console from whaler through a dealer and it was fitted with the aluminmu angles. I would be surprised if they would not sell this part separately. Instead of a teak cover, it has a black piece. I do not know what the material is, but it looks durable. Kelly
lhg posted 05-10-2001 01:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
It's Starboard. What did they charge you for a new console, and was it complete with windshield and rails?
Kelly posted 05-10-2001 10:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Kelly  Send Email to Kelly     
The console cost about $1800 and included the following: grab rails, windshield, steering wheel with cable, doors with locks and keys, fire extinguisher space, switches for lights, and cup holders. I probably could have found something that would work for less, but I like the way this looks with the boat. Kelly
lhg posted 05-10-2001 10:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
You did the right thing! And I don't think that's a bad price considering how complete it is. As a hopeless Classicist, I don't care for aftermarket center consoles in Whalers 17' and up.

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