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  Teak repair on 22' Outrage gunwales

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Author Topic:   Teak repair on 22' Outrage gunwales
Eagleman posted 04-27-2001 11:18 AM ET (US)   Profile for Eagleman   Send Email to Eagleman  
I have a couple of places where the screws on the stanchion plates have torn out of the teak gunwales.As a result I now have a couple of 1/2" wide 1/4"deep 2" long splinters out of my teak. Whats the best way to repair the damage area? My teak wood and boat always looks pristine, repairing these teak splinters is important to keep it looking sharp. Thanks Eagleman
Tom W Clark posted 04-27-2001 12:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Easy repair. Install a "Dutchman". By this I mean glue a piece of teak into a mortise that you create which covers the damged area and sand, scrape or plane flush and re-oil.

Now the finer points:

It's up to you how you want to create this mortise. If it were me I would use a router to take it down the required depth and I might be happy with the rounded corners that the bit will leave. (The size of the radius is dependant on the size of bit you use) If not, I would use chisels to provide an angular end to the mortise. If you make the ends pointed like the bow of a boat the glue line will be less obvious than if it is perpendicular the grain of the wood. If you want to cut the mortise by hand then make it an elongated diamond shape and it will be less noticable still.

To make the patch as invisible as possible it is crucial that you choose a piece of teak that closely matches the color and grain pattern of the board you are patching. Don't be afraid to make a new "plug" if the first one isn't so great. I would rough out the shape of the "plug" on the piece of teak with a pencil and then cut it down by whatever means you have at your disposal. I would then take it the rest of the way with a belt sander laying on its side on a work bench or, if you have one, a drum sander or some other stationary sander. It will be a trial and error job to achieve the final fit. Take a little bit down, see how it fits the mortise, take a little more.. Be patient, it will come.

Once the "plug" is ready to install you might wnat the improve the adhesion of the Epoxy (I suggest 5 minute since it only has to hold the patch in place) by swabbing both mortise and "plug" with acetone or some other solvent like laquer thinner or toluene in order to remove some of the natural oil in the teak.

Once the glue has set then chisel off the excess to within a 1/16" or 1/32" of the gunnel board and scrape or sand it flush. This is the perfect opportunity to refinish the whole board and if you do the repair will be nearly invisible.

OutrageMan posted 04-27-2001 12:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
PRISTINE???? Well that is another stroy :)

Here is what I recomend. There are three approaches.

1) There are commercial wood fillers avaibale. Yacht Works has some good ones (so does Dad). Fill above the crack.

2) Mase some filler with teak dust and glue. Fill above the crack.

3) Use some clear epoxy, and fill the areas, then grind down to the wood.

After you have done the filling comes the next step....

Sand the snot out of it. Start with 80 and work your way out to 220. 400 is even better.

Now another choice. Do you want warnish or teak oil? I reccomend the oil, as the vernishing would be higher maint. and take longer to get done.

Use the same stuff I did on it a few years ago - Perma Teak. As you know, this stuff has actually lasted nearly 3 seasons (including outdoor storage).

Done right, you should get a good season or two out of it.

I also think I know of a garage in Ephraim where you might be able to find all of the tools you need :)

Or if all else fails, I think Dad may need a project (Harpoon Harry).

LarrySherman posted 04-27-2001 10:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman     
It might be eaiser to replace both boards. I am in the process of doing it myself, and it is not difficult: chisel out the teak plugs that cover the screw holes, and unscrew the boards. Now, with a hamer and a piece of scrap wood, simply tap on the raised edge of the verticle crosspiece (unscrew rod holders from boat, disconnect fuel hoses from filler caps, etc). Then, take the new and old horizontal members to a good wood shop and have them mill the 45degree bevel that allows the board to slide under the gunwhale. reassemble and reinstall. Or do it yourself on the tablesaw (make sure you have a friend help you, you need to cut the 45 degree bevel, 3/8 of an inch deep, then relieve the board to the bottom of the bevel. This is best done with a dado set.

If you opt for repair as opposed to replacement, then I would go with Tom's advice. Overall a much more professional and long lived repair. Also if the tearouts in the gunwale seem to be increasing in size, you should consider a butterfly shapped patch, with the wings of the butterfly on either side of the split. This will hold the board together and prevent further checking.

Larry

bdb posted 04-28-2001 09:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for bdb  Send Email to bdb     
Eagleman...

Reach back into your bag of tricks and carpet the suckers....

Harpoon Harry

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