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adaps4 posted 05-16-2001 01:12 AM ET (US)   Profile for adaps4   Send Email to adaps4  
This is my first post- I have a 1972 Sport Sourpuss w/ a 40 horse Yamaha. I was recently repainting the hull and found a 1 or 2 inch hole. How do I check for water ingress? Pushing and tapping the hull reveals no flex or dull thuds. The last time it sat in water for an extended time was two years ago. Would this sufficiently dry out any water in the hull? Lastly, how do you repair this? I have fiberglass and epoxy resins from building kiteboards- will this work?
Lots of questions for my first post, but you all seem to respond very quickly. Thanks in advance for the help-
Tampa Dan
thunderbay posted 05-17-2001 04:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for thunderbay  Send Email to thunderbay     
Hey Dan, your in Tampa? Im a little up from you in Pasco county. I have a 69 13ft and after bringing it home from Georgia found a 10 inch crack, the bunk went thru the hull, wether or not it was there before I'll never know. Every one wanted to cut out from the inside a 12inch section, repair the crack, repour the foam, and leave me with a cut up floor, all for 600.00 plus bucks! I grabbed some marine tech from the boat store, mixed it up, layed a little glass and its been fine. Heck, if once a year you have to re do it so what, its cheap! While your at it, be sure to check around this site about how the trailer should be set up, so that you to dont find a big crack! Good luck, see ya, Shawn
jimh posted 05-17-2001 09:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Q1: "How to I check for water ingress?"

--Get the boat out of the water.
--Position the boat so that water will flow toward the hole.
--Check for water weeping from hole.
--Let the boat thoroughly dry out.

I have heard mention of a "moisture meter", but I do not really have any first hand experience with these, nor do I know where one could buy/borrow/rent one. Perhaps a reputable boat repair yard would have one. As to exactly what they detect and how significant their findings are, I cannot speak with any authority.

Q2: "Would [letting boat sit out of water for two years] sufficiently dry out any water in the hull?"

--Probably, if the hull were oriented so that water could escape from the hole and no new water could enter.

Q3: "How do you repair [the hole]?"

--I recommend WEST SYSTEM epoxy. The people that make WEST SYSTEM also own Boston Whaler boats themselves. They are familiar with the construction of Whalers, and they recommend using their epoxy for repairs. WEST SYSTEM products cost slightly more than store-brand or bargain formulations, but in the amounts you will be using the cost differences will be insiginficant.

WEST SYSTEM publishes a very informative repair manual for the bargain price of $3. This booklet contains a great deal of information about repairing fiberglass laminates. Buy the booklet, read it over, and decide if you are able to make the repair yourself. Buy the material, make the repair, go boating!

The bottom line to repairing a Whaler:

--let the water drain out and dry
--stop new water from entering

reel remarks posted 05-19-2001 08:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for reel remarks  Send Email to reel remarks     
Thundrbay - (Shawn) - I'm redoing an old 13' BW and one of the problems is the trailer. I'm not sure how to set it up and I saw your note about previous threads on setting up a trailer. I looked and looked but couldn't find anything. Can you expand on your statement, or tell me exactly where to find the info. Thanks, Stan

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