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Author Topic:   Cooler seat chocks

stagalv posted 05-16-2001 11:53 AM ET (US)
Finishing things up on my rebuilt Montauk. I have a 72qt cooler and wanted to know how to best secure this to the deck. I know Igloo offers 4 corner chocks but the fwd two chocks will not fit due to the hull shape. Any ideas? Teak somehow? Rex
whalertim posted 05-16-2001 12:42 PM ET (US)
Rex, I have the Teak cooler holders on my Montauk. I really like the Teak. It looks great w/ the wood handles on my cooler.
Just my 2 cents.
Tim NC
lhg posted 05-16-2001 12:54 PM ET (US)
Rex - Get a set of BW's black Starboard Montauk cooler cleats. They are angled to fit the floor contour, and the cooler sits up on top of these. They are very nice, and not expensive. Those Igloo corner blocks are way too tacky looking for your Whaler!
dreid posted 05-16-2001 01:14 PM ET (US)
With a piece of 1-1/4" thick teak or mahogany, plus a pattern provided by any one of the current Montauk owners on this forum, you or a friendly cabinetmaker can duplicate the cooler hold-down/chocks that Whaler sold originally on your hull. Larry's starboard idea looks good and frankly is more practical, but the wood looks great (imo) and should last at least ten years if maintained.
Whaletosh posted 05-16-2001 01:19 PM ET (US)
Rex,
I would agree with Larry on this. The Igloo mounts are fine on pontoons and deckboats in low traffic areas. But, they are sturdy enough for a cooler that is going to be used as a seat. Plus they really present a tripping hazard if the cooler isn't on the boat.
Starboard is pretty easy to work with. So, if you want you could machine you own brackets. You can use metal working end mills, router/shaper bits, and wood saws (power or hand) to cut and shape Starboard. I have done so many times an gotten pretty darn good results very easily.
Starboard can be gotten from plastics suppliers (look in yellow pages), West Marine, Boat/US, and others.
Sean
stagalv posted 05-16-2001 04:22 PM ET (US)
I like the idea of using teak. Is this just two strips the cooler sits on? I guess you use a bungee cord to run through each teak piece then to the cooler sides?? Does this provide enough support to keep the cooler from dancing around? If someone has the diminsions of these strips that would be great. Thanks, Rex
stagalv posted 05-17-2001 02:22 PM ET (US)
Anyone? Anyone?
Arch Autenreith posted 05-17-2001 03:11 PM ET (US)
stagalv. I just emailed jpg's to you. Did you get them?
stagalv posted 05-17-2001 05:56 PM ET (US)
Arch, I did get the photos. With the chocks out of the boat it is hard to tell how they should be positioned. Does the cooler sit on top and the bungee comes up the sides of the cooler to the handles? Thanks for all your help. Rex
Arch Autenreith posted 05-19-2001 09:36 AM ET (US)
stagalv. I haven't forgot you. Too many projects and will get back to you Monday, if that's ok.
Arch
Cruiser posted 05-19-2001 11:35 AM ET (US)
On my Montauk the cooler sits on top of two flat pieces of wood and a strech cord holds the cooler down to the wood. The problem is that when someone sits on it it can kind of slide around on top of the wood pieces. How are the other guys keeping the cooler from slipping on top of the wood?
lhg posted 05-23-2001 10:25 PM ET (US)
Yes, BW's starboard cooler cleasts can be made out of teak if you want to. The cleats are basically 3/4" thick, with an additional 3/4" block at each end on top of the bottom piece that lok the cooler in place front to back. Three countersunk screw holes hold them to the floor. They are angled, in plan, to fit the Montauk floor profile, but these can be used on Outrages also. Each has a bungee cord installed through pre-drilled HORIZONTAL holes in the "dog bone" ends of the bottom section, that hook on to BW's SPECIAL clip mounted on the cooler. There is a routed out round hole in the bottom piece, at each dog bone end, where the bungee crimped ends reside. These plastic clips are available from a dealer to be added to any Igloo cooler.
It is impossible to completely describe the design of these cleats without a drawing.
Tom W Clark posted 05-24-2001 10:20 AM ET (US)
Larry's description is a good one except that I think the original teak Montauk cleats were made of 5/4 stock, not 4/4 (1" not 3/4") I'm just pulling this out of memory but I had these on my Outrage and the cooler did not slide from side to side at all. Perhaps it was the tension of the bungee and/or the placement of the chocks but sliding was never a problem for me.
The actual Outrage chocks that Whaler produced were a slightly different design. They housed the end of the cooler with a piece of mahogany that had the shape of the cooler's bottom edge routed into it. I preferred the Montauk's design because there is no part of the chock sticking out the end and interfering with scrubbing down the deck, ect. On a Montauk, the angled chocks are mandatory because of the shape of the hull.
If anybody has a set of Montauk chocks and would like to send me pictures, diagrams and/or dimensions, I will draw up some CAD drawings and send them to jimh for possible inclusion in the reference section.
andygere posted 05-24-2001 11:05 AM ET (US)
Tom,
I think there would be a lot of demand for drawings of the cooler cleats. I have been thinking of building some myself, but haven't been able to find a set to make the pattern from.
Whaletosh posted 05-25-2001 08:54 AM ET (US)
One of the great thing about moving is it forces one to go through most of one's stuff. Just the other night I found the cooler cleats that I fabricated myself out of Starboard. They are almost a complete duplicate of the ones used on a Dauntless 13; which I belive is the same as the current Dauntless design. The difference is that I used SS strap eyes instead of the holes for the nylons straps B/W used. This allowed me to use poly bungy cords which gave a more secure grip on the tank. Plus the straps are completely removable for cleaning and can be replaced without removing the cleats.
I could send dimensions and pictures if somebody deired.
simonmeridew posted 05-26-2001 07:59 AM ET (US)
One of my wooden "cleats" is broken on my Montauk, though I have the broken piece. I'm thinking that I got quite a few mahogany pieces of various dimensions from a auto body guy--seems offshore body parts such as fenders and hoods are crated with mahogany. Anyway I think it wouldn't be too hard to use the existing parts for a pattern to make a new one. On my "to do list", .....I think total time to make one couldn't be more than a couple of hours, even for the first one. N.B.:There is a left and a right.
simonmerideew

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Author	Topic: Cooler seat chocks
stagalv	posted 05-16-2001 11:53 AM ET (US) Finishing things up on my rebuilt Montauk. I have a 72qt cooler and wanted to know how to best secure this to the deck. I know Igloo offers 4 corner chocks but the fwd two chocks will not fit due to the hull shape. Any ideas? Teak somehow? Rex
whalertim	posted 05-16-2001 12:42 PM ET (US) Rex, I have the Teak cooler holders on my Montauk. I really like the Teak. It looks great w/ the wood handles on my cooler. Just my 2 cents. Tim NC
lhg	posted 05-16-2001 12:54 PM ET (US) Rex - Get a set of BW's black Starboard Montauk cooler cleats. They are angled to fit the floor contour, and the cooler sits up on top of these. They are very nice, and not expensive. Those Igloo corner blocks are way too tacky looking for your Whaler!
dreid	posted 05-16-2001 01:14 PM ET (US) With a piece of 1-1/4" thick teak or mahogany, plus a pattern provided by any one of the current Montauk owners on this forum, you or a friendly cabinetmaker can duplicate the cooler hold-down/chocks that Whaler sold originally on your hull. Larry's starboard idea looks good and frankly is more practical, but the wood looks great (imo) and should last at least ten years if maintained.
Whaletosh	posted 05-16-2001 01:19 PM ET (US) Rex, I would agree with Larry on this. The Igloo mounts are fine on pontoons and deckboats in low traffic areas. But, they are sturdy enough for a cooler that is going to be used as a seat. Plus they really present a tripping hazard if the cooler isn't on the boat. Starboard is pretty easy to work with. So, if you want you could machine you own brackets. You can use metal working end mills, router/shaper bits, and wood saws (power or hand) to cut and shape Starboard. I have done so many times an gotten pretty darn good results very easily. Starboard can be gotten from plastics suppliers (look in yellow pages), West Marine, Boat/US, and others. Sean
stagalv	posted 05-16-2001 04:22 PM ET (US) I like the idea of using teak. Is this just two strips the cooler sits on? I guess you use a bungee cord to run through each teak piece then to the cooler sides?? Does this provide enough support to keep the cooler from dancing around? If someone has the diminsions of these strips that would be great. Thanks, Rex
stagalv	posted 05-17-2001 02:22 PM ET (US) Anyone? Anyone?
Arch Autenreith	posted 05-17-2001 03:11 PM ET (US) stagalv. I just emailed jpg's to you. Did you get them?
stagalv	posted 05-17-2001 05:56 PM ET (US) Arch, I did get the photos. With the chocks out of the boat it is hard to tell how they should be positioned. Does the cooler sit on top and the bungee comes up the sides of the cooler to the handles? Thanks for all your help. Rex
Arch Autenreith	posted 05-19-2001 09:36 AM ET (US) stagalv. I haven't forgot you. Too many projects and will get back to you Monday, if that's ok. Arch
Cruiser	posted 05-19-2001 11:35 AM ET (US) On my Montauk the cooler sits on top of two flat pieces of wood and a strech cord holds the cooler down to the wood. The problem is that when someone sits on it it can kind of slide around on top of the wood pieces. How are the other guys keeping the cooler from slipping on top of the wood?
lhg	posted 05-23-2001 10:25 PM ET (US) Yes, BW's starboard cooler cleasts can be made out of teak if you want to. The cleats are basically 3/4" thick, with an additional 3/4" block at each end on top of the bottom piece that lok the cooler in place front to back. Three countersunk screw holes hold them to the floor. They are angled, in plan, to fit the Montauk floor profile, but these can be used on Outrages also. Each has a bungee cord installed through pre-drilled HORIZONTAL holes in the "dog bone" ends of the bottom section, that hook on to BW's SPECIAL clip mounted on the cooler. There is a routed out round hole in the bottom piece, at each dog bone end, where the bungee crimped ends reside. These plastic clips are available from a dealer to be added to any Igloo cooler. It is impossible to completely describe the design of these cleats without a drawing.
Tom W Clark	posted 05-24-2001 10:20 AM ET (US) Larry's description is a good one except that I think the original teak Montauk cleats were made of 5/4 stock, not 4/4 (1" not 3/4") I'm just pulling this out of memory but I had these on my Outrage and the cooler did not slide from side to side at all. Perhaps it was the tension of the bungee and/or the placement of the chocks but sliding was never a problem for me. The actual Outrage chocks that Whaler produced were a slightly different design. They housed the end of the cooler with a piece of mahogany that had the shape of the cooler's bottom edge routed into it. I preferred the Montauk's design because there is no part of the chock sticking out the end and interfering with scrubbing down the deck, ect. On a Montauk, the angled chocks are mandatory because of the shape of the hull. If anybody has a set of Montauk chocks and would like to send me pictures, diagrams and/or dimensions, I will draw up some CAD drawings and send them to jimh for possible inclusion in the reference section.
andygere	posted 05-24-2001 11:05 AM ET (US) Tom, I think there would be a lot of demand for drawings of the cooler cleats. I have been thinking of building some myself, but haven't been able to find a set to make the pattern from.
Whaletosh	posted 05-25-2001 08:54 AM ET (US) One of the great thing about moving is it forces one to go through most of one's stuff. Just the other night I found the cooler cleats that I fabricated myself out of Starboard. They are almost a complete duplicate of the ones used on a Dauntless 13; which I belive is the same as the current Dauntless design. The difference is that I used SS strap eyes instead of the holes for the nylons straps B/W used. This allowed me to use poly bungy cords which gave a more secure grip on the tank. Plus the straps are completely removable for cleaning and can be replaced without removing the cleats. I could send dimensions and pictures if somebody deired.
simonmeridew	posted 05-26-2001 07:59 AM ET (US) One of my wooden "cleats" is broken on my Montauk, though I have the broken piece. I'm thinking that I got quite a few mahogany pieces of various dimensions from a auto body guy--seems offshore body parts such as fenders and hoods are crated with mahogany. Anyway I think it wouldn't be too hard to use the existing parts for a pattern to make a new one. On my "to do list", .....I think total time to make one couldn't be more than a couple of hours, even for the first one. N.B.:There is a left and a right. simonmerideew